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About dan212

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 996/GT3 - Silver
  • Former cars
    997/4S - Silver
  1. I have used Fabspeed headers and Mufflers on my 996/GT3 for years. The build quality gets better and better and I have been thrilled with the results. I also gutted the Cats to relieve back pressure and pick up a few more HP. (Keep in mind that all of this does make the car much louder).. The trick to gutting the cats is to relocate the O2 sensors properly. The Stock standoffs will work, but you will end up with CEL's from time to time. There is an "extended" L shaped standoff that will take care of this. The combination of Fabspeed headers, mufflers and gutted cats returned a remarkable im
  2. I changed out all of the rubber on my GT3 (motor mounts, shocks etc), the twisty bits like links etc. Those changes make a big difference. The OEM shocks are just too soft for the track and the dampers not well matched. Moton's are glorious but expensive. Fantastic, but beyond my reach. A very effective and inexpensive upgrade is to swap out the springs and just have the OEM shocks revalved to match by Bilstein. I think the shocks were only about 600 dollars to revalve. I changed to 650/850 springs with shocks matched by Bilstein. With that kind of spring rate, you might as well remov
  3. Grip/traction and Tyre wear are very different. 2.5 camber in the front. That kind of camber won't help tire wear on the street. I assume you have this set up for the track? What do you have the rear set at? What do you have your sways set to? Toe? If on the track - what Hot pressures? What effect are you trying to get? (what makes you think you have a problem?) dan
  4. Matt - You are spending money on chipping the engine and changing the exhaust but then putting on cheap replica wheels? Aside from the weight eating up the power you might be getting and the negative effect on handling, there is a safety issue. These are cheap knock off wheels. Unless the entire exercise is for Bling (and I am not criticizing Bling), put the chip money into the rims.
  5. Thats the worse kind of over-rev you can get.. The engine is being pulled externally. The load is different. The stuff of broken hearts. The harm is less the revs than the source. But before you really make yourself nuts: What did the engine really peak at? If you don't know, get a reading from the DME.
  6. Of course they spin the engine up at the factory. That doesn't mean that you should hammer the engine on the street. Take a nice long road trip. Makes keeping the revs down easier and is a better break in anyway. There is a lot that needs to loosen up. Get it aligned after the break in. They are never spot on from the factory. Interesting comment from LBP.. With older cars you absolutely had to change the oil after break in. Sometimes the even the break-in oil was different. Not any more. Modern cars are designed for minimal service. I am amazed at how little is called for at the even the ma
  7. There is probably a lot of fudge in there. They tell you 4200 because you will go past that sometimes and they want you to take it easy. You will probably hit 5K from time to time. If they told you 5K, you would hit 6K and so forth. What is most important is getting as much break in time with the engine and systems warmed up. They really mean it when they tell you to take a few long trips. I took a 1,000 mile road trip the day after I got mine.. It was a pleasure. Keep in mind that many systems need break in. The steering loosens up. The transmission does too - noticeably after 2K. You al
  8. I got mine from my dealer. They service a lot of GT3's and had them on hand. You can also order them online. Some Porsche parts are insanely expensive. The shims are strangely inexpensive. I think they were 25-35 dollars e.g.. not much
  9. Follow up from my previous post. Installing the 996 control arms transformed my 4S into a great handling balanced track car. I was able to better align it for track use. Worth every penny I paid - especially because I stopped eating my front tires.
  10. The HP and torque are not linear. They don't just keep going up as the engine winds up to max. And you don't want the car to hit the rev limiter anyway. It disturbs the car balance.
  11. I can't say enough about the PS2's.. They are great. They wear well and are actually VERY good on the track. They work very well on the street, in rain and even on the the track (for novice / intermediate driving). Do keep in mind that these are high performance summer tires. They are not designed for very cold weather. I live in NYC. I use them year round anyway and don't drive in the snow.
  12. For what its worth.. I was going that route to carry a set of wheels on my GT3. I live in NYC and alternatives are limited.The combination of wheels and rims get right to the limit of what the roof is designed to carry, but I could live with that. I could even keep my track wheels in my NYC apartment. (I am not married). There is also the effect of so much roof weight to consider for handling. But I was still going that route. BUT my mechanic and three others pointed out something that I had not considered. In the event of an accident, the roof wheels are more likely to come loose and bec
  13. There are plastic shims that you can install on the wing mounts. There is a 4 way and 8 way adjustable pair. They are very inexpensive. Changing the wing angle without the shims won't work because the wind will push the wing back down.
  14. I have a 997/C4S. I have put about 12K miles on it in the last 5 months, with at least 15% of that on the track. I have NEVER had a problem with blipping the throttle while heel and toe. I Do know that the throttle will cut if you hit the brake while in gear, but NOT while the clutch is depressed, which is when you would blip. I heel/toe using both my right side of my foot or by heel depending on circumstances of down shift. Thats always on the brake. Sometimes, I do just blip on downshift without braking... And of course I sometimes have to blip on upshifts. But blipping while on the brake
  15. Some shops install the 997 GT3 arms. Those are about 900 each. The bearings / bushings are teflon/steel and intended for racing. The ride will be kind of harsh, but perfect for track. You can use the 996 arms which have a stiff rubber mount instead of all metal. They are half the price. No matter what, you are looking at about 2 hours of labor and then alignment. According to my dealer, the 996 and 997 arms look the pretty much the same except for the all steel or teflon mount points. I am having the 996 arms installed next week. So I will let you know how that goes for me on my 997/CS4.
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