Serottab

Hello Rick (if I may) ~ The wheel R&R is relatively straight forward and simple; I'd call it a difficulty rating of 3 on a 1 - 10 scale (oil change maybe a 2). Total replacement time was about twenty five minutes. I ordered a STSM12E "triple square", 1/2 inch drive tool bit from SnapOn.com http://buy1.snapon.c...-store&tool=all to fully and properly engage the bolt that attaches the wheel to the steering column shaft. It's similar to a six-point T-55 Torx driver, only a 12-point configuration. Well worth the $37.23 total IMHO, but I'm a "tool guy" anyway. First, unless you're feeling lucky, disconnect the battery (airbag). Then make a small incision with an Exacto knife in the circular depression at the bottom-center of the steering wheel body in the lower spoke area. I then inserted a 3/16 inch diameter drift punch to engage the retention spring and release the horn / air bag assembly. If you have the new paddle-style wheel available, an inspection of the center horn cavity area will reveal what's required. Once the horn / air bag assembly pops out from the wheel, disconnect the airbag and ground connectors from the horn assembly and the main connector at the base of the wheel / column interface. The airbag connectors are color coded blue / yellow for re-installation ease, with a secondary retention clip at the top of each connector which needs to be lifted before the harness-side connector(s) can be removed. Then, unscrew the center bolt. With a fine point Sharpie or equivalent, identify the top-dead center position on the steering shaft (there's a scribe line on the wheel) and subsequently remove the wheel. Install new wheel and torque center bolt to 33-lbf per Loren's recommendation. I reacted the torque via the wheel OD to avoid loading up the column locking mechanism. Reconnect airbag, ground and main connectors to the horn assembly. Here's the important part: While re-installing the horn / airbag assembly, VERIFY (about six times) that the flat ribbon-harness is properly laying into the recess in the wheel center body prior to fully seating the horn assembly into its retention clips. It's not hard to do, just requires careful attention. If the harness is not laying in the dedicated recess slot it will bind up the horn button and you will end up having to punch a hole in your brand new wheel to release and re-install the horn button. This delicate tidbit of info from my local friendly dealer mechanic; I didn't ask him how he knew… Reconnect battery and go for a little test drive. There were a few expected (dealer informed) error messages re. "Drive-Off Assistant failure, PSM failure, ABS failure", etc. that I cleared via Durametric; otherwise they will self-clear within a block or so, again per the dealer tech. All-in-all, for me it was and is a very rewarding and fun upgrade. It takes a little while to adapt to the left-down/right-up paddle shift technique, but way fun after that! The wheel feels great, and no issues with warranty that I know of; it is a factory option for 2011 (2010?) after all. A fellow C4S friend of mine loved the wheel; his wife pestered me to order another one through Jeff at Sunset as a Christmas gift to cease his jealous ranting. Props here to Jeff / Sunset, as in my experience with the wheel and many other orders he absolutely sets the bar for customer service, with great pricing to boot. If you're anywhere near the So Cal / South Bay area, I'd be happy to help / advise with your R&R, loan you the tool, etc. PM me – There is one little design flaw... If you're right handed and a coffee drinker like me, it is most difficult to enjoy your brew and up-shift at the same time. Almost forces one to select auto-shift for the morning commute. Not so bad in Sport Plus mode... Hope this helps, enjoy - Cheers, Marc

Just noticed that Porsche has (finally!) come out with a software update and console switches to upgrade non-Sport Chrono cars with the Sport / Sport plus (launch control!) performance aspects, sans the timer on the dash; see link below. Hallelujah, finally the best of both worlds IMHO. Wondering if it could be a DIY install - Aside from the mechanical installation of the switches, does anyone (Loren) know if the stated "enabling code" from Porsche would require PIWIS validation, or just selection via dashboard menu? Does the enabling code imply that all the cars come with the ECU code pre-installed from the factory, just waiting for activation? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/9X7SM.html?Category_Code=997238per Cheers – Marc

PM sent - I would like to do the same on my 09 Cayman S. I assume you used your air bag. Was that a difficult transfer?

That's the one. Thanks Loren -

Replacing the stock steering (PDK) wheel with a paddle shift version (thanks Jeff @ Sunset!). Does does anyone know the recommended torque value for the fixing bolt? Thanks in advance -

Hello all ~ Eric's instructions are accurate, however I R&R 'd the nozzles without headlight removal. Used a small tool similar to an allen wrench with a 90 degree bend at the end to lift the nozzles. Hold on tight as Eric mentioned; there is indeed a strong spring retraction force. I clamped the nozzle off with a pair of plastic fuse-puller pliars to assist in removing the OEM chrome version. Once I figured out to lift the nozzle without complete bumper cover removal as directed by the dealer, the whole job took about 15 minutes... Best, Serrotab

Thank you Loren. Think I'll wait until the painted version arrives, inspect and "reverse engineer" the removal so as not to damage -

Oops. Just got a new 997.2, still have the 996 as well. I'm looking to R&R the nozzles on the 997. Off to update my profile... hanks Loren -

Ordered a set of body colored headlight washer nozzles from Eric @ Bumper Plugs. Anybody have info on how to safely remove the nozzles? Just got the car New Years Eve, tried to (gently) pull the chrome covers off but no luck. Hoping not to have to dismantle the whole front end... Thanks!

Hi all ~ Many great helpful responses to previous questions, so here goes - Looking to pull the trigger on a new 997 C4S with all my desired options, save one. On a one (lightbulb replacement) to ten (engine swap) scale, does anyone (Loren - ?) have insight as to the possibility /pain of installing the Sports Chrono Plus option (sans dash clock) into a new 997? I keep thinking it's "just" a tip switch, some wiring and probably an ECU re-program. This is probably the one option I will use the most (read: Launch Control!!!) and don't understand why it's not included on this model. Current ride iis an '04 C4S w/Tip, a great car, but after driving that new PDK trans I'm sold. Thanks for any help - :renntech:

Thanks. I currently have a C4S with the stock spoiler andthe footwell deployment switch. Being advertised as a "factory installed aerokit", I would hope the Germans would realize they don't need the switch with a fixed wing. Makes me wonder about the "factory installed" authenticity - Happy motoring!

Found a very clean, low mileage MY07 997 C4S on-line with a factory installed aerokit, front and rear. A beautiful car at a reasonable price. From the photos, it looks like a GT3-ish rear wing (fixed?), but the dash has a spoiler tip switch installed. Perhaps a silly question, but does someone know what function that switch would have with a fixed (wing) spoiler? Or maybe the wing has a deployable section unseen in the picture... Thanks for the :help:

2003 C4S Tip, US, ~30k miles. Went out for the Saturday morning coffee / 50 mile drive today. About ten miles in as I was just rolling on the throttle in a mild left sweeper, tha car hesitated as if the throttle cable had parted (if there is a cable...). The car continud to run, no CEL, however with much reduced power. Wouldn't pull RPMs over ~4k, felt like a great feature to engage for the wife driving - The fuel level was down to about 50 miles remaining, I don't know if perhaps fuel slosh triggered some sort of engine safety mode, or ??? Got home and parked it for a few minutes, restarted and it drove normally. A little disconcerting as I don't know what initially caused the problem, or what 'fixed' it. Unfortunately no code reader available (yet). Help -? Thanks, Marc