laalves

Thanks Loren. So you believe that I may extract oil via the oil filler without any obstacles in between?

Hi all, I'm considering starting to monitor my engine oil using the services of oelcheck.de. They sell a handpump with a 3m tube to extract oil from cars with dipstick, i.e., wet sump engines. Does any one know if I can reach the oil tank in my TT with a 3m tube down the oil filler or is there any mesh in between to prevent this?

Hi, Thanks for your response. I know about the saddle shaped tank and the algorithm the OBC (on board computer) uses to show remaining mileage after the sensor no longer reads actual fuel level. I have no code (I use Durametric). When the problem happens, the red light in the analog fuel gauge blinks, there is a message in the On Board Computer display saying "Fuel Level Sensor Failure. Drive to Workshop" as well as the remaining mileage calculation goes to "---" instead of displaying a number representing how many km I have left before emptying the tank. As I said, after filling the tank, the message goes away and the fuel gauge reading goes up and all is well. Then this repeats itself when fuel goes down to the point when the message "Consider range, blah, blah". When this happens, bang, the error shows up again.

So I have searched around the forum and found some people having more or less the same issue I have. In fact, this member had exactly what I'm having: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/10352-fuel-level-sensor-failure/ , However, no solution is documented. On or about the reserve fuel level, the meter goes to zero, the OBC says: "Fuel Level Sensor Failure. Drive to Workshop" and the mileage estimate says "---". If instead i drive to the gas station and fill it up, everything goes back to normal, the meter says full, the OBC message goes away and the estimate is no longer "---" and returns to normal. Any ideas? Car: 2002 996TT.

Thanks guys! Plenty of options to check in the car during this weekend.

And again another version. This time a Zenec 2041D. I was looking for an OEM-retro look, with knob/button ergonomics and found this unit. I removed all the Alpine modules (nav, audio processor and processor/nav interface) from the boot and installed a JBL MS-8 feeding the Alpine amps. I'm very happy with the looks, ergonomics is superb when compared with touchscreen only radios (I now found out that I hate them) and sound is actually very good, even comparing it with the previous Alpine radio. The left knob is volume, press quick for mute and press long for turn off/on. Right side knob is scroll and press for select. The UI is not as cheesy as everything else I've seen (Kenwood is horrendous) and used and it has even a discrete OEM look, with some orange over grey, ala PCM1. Nav is iGo 8.5.11 which is also a considerable step up from my previous Alpine iGo 8.3.

Wow, no answer at all for 5 days already. Probably the first time this happened to me in this forum.

Hi, I have a radio that, being Windows CE based, doesn't like to being fed with power when turning the key and immediately having cut off when the starter turns until it is permanently supplied with power after the engine is revving on its own. These false starts cause things like the iPod or the internal Bluetooth module not being recognised, requiring turning off and back on the radio. Current work around is not forgetting to turn off the radio on its knob before taking the key out of the ignition, so that the next time I start the car the radio doesn't turn on. After the car is revving I then turn the radio on. But this requires me remembering the procedure, which doesn't always happen. So, the question is, when I turn the key, which one is cutoff: permanent 12V or switched 12V or both? If it is the permanent 12V, then I guess I could just wire the radio directly to the fuse box, if it is the switched 12V, then it is more complicated to go around the issue.

Well, it does not sound at all like my MY02. Considering the apparently clanking noise I would consider an valve.

Mmmmm.... I feared that, but I thought it could be possible to do just by removing the headlight innards and clean it with a swab moistened in window cleaner, without ungluing the Perspex from the plastic "chassis".

Hi, just noticed your post. No, I have no problems with Bluetooth in this setup. I have used iPhone 3G and iPhone 4S phones. Your echo may be due to the phone model you are using, the Bluetooth software version (newer version may not be the best for your particular phone model), or mic location. Regarding this later issue, I have reused the Porsche original mic but had to adjust its gain to suit the Clarion and later, the Alpine.

Just that. My headlights are strangely dirty apparently in the internal face of the Perspex. It looks like a dark semi-circular lower collar in the headlight. Does anybody else have this and dealt with it? Is it feasible to remove the interior parts of the headlight (motors, lamp holders, lenses, etc) to gain access to the Perspex inner face and clean it with a swab?

Right, removed the door card, the lining and a good look. A pain to remove the Bose speaker box with the window glass down.... :-( Anyway, after a good cleanup of the regulator, tightening of one of the regulator stops that was loose and a bit of lubing of the regulator parts and cables and it eventually started working again and much smoother than before. In fact it sounds much better than the passenger window now!

Hi, Looking for hints: just now, shut the down the car, closed the driver window and it came up normally until it hit the top position and decided to roll back down on its own. And now it won't move, stuck open. I can hear the clicks inside the door when I press the button, either for up or down, but nothing, else, no motor sound, just the clicks of the relay. It won't close using the remote either. Removed both C3 and D1 fuses in the hopes of resetting it, but nothing. Any suggestions?

I know, but I checked with Durametric and nothing shows up... My warranty extension ends this September so I guess that before that I'll do a claim on the 2nd/3rd issue so that it gets recorded.

My car is a MY02 TT with Tip. I bought it on 03/2008 and drive it daily and in Manual mode Ever since I bought it, I noticed it does a jerk (sometimes quite a bit strong) about 3 out of 4 times I shift down to 1st from the default 2nd gear the car selects when stopped. Never took much notice of it until recently it started doing something else: after restarting the car from a short stop (like an hour or so) with the temp like 70ºC indicated in the water temp gauge, 2nd gear may get stuck momentarily, either in M or D modes, tried both. It simply won't shift to 3rd until it is revved up a bit and then, after a violent jerk, it will upshift and it won't happen again. The first time this happened must have been around December or January this year. Since then, it may have happened 5 or 6 times. Has anybody experienced any of these symptoms? Could these be spelling trouble?

Right, a few months ago I finished the new version. I replaced the Clarion MAX983HD and Alpine PXE-H650 with an Alpine iXA-W407, PXA-H100 and NVE-M300P General view of the Alpine iXA-W407 disguised into a fabricated trim piece. I made it using plastic, leather and a Porsche Design keyfob for the letters. The iPhone support/charger is made from the original Nokia headset trim support part and a DLO charger, all covered in leather. A closer view of the screen. The Porsche Design letters. The whitish stuff around the letters is just reflections from the flash. The door woofers were covered in leather by Techart (part of an extensive "leathering" program I did, part Techart, part DIY, still undergoing) and I glued the Focal logo. Just visible is the Focal 13WS sub, one of 4 in the car. Original Porsche leather dash speaker grills in which I reinstalled the Focal 100KP, one of 4 in the car. Alpine KTX-i500D drawer disguised with a fake front made from the standard CD drawers. I'm very happy with the sound quality upgrade, when compared to the Clarion. This was the point of the change. I also gained a much more flexible nav system, very frequently and cheaply updated from alpine.naviextras.com, when compared to the Clarion (very closed system, maps were never updated during my 2 year ownership). I lost a much superior iPod control GUI: to find an artist/album/whatever starting with the letter Z, I now need to tap the screen almost 30 times. With the Clarion I could do that with about... 3 taps! The nav system was also faster and more flexible in planning itineraries with multiple waypoints. All in all, it was very worth it (the install is visually also much better, IMHO) just because of the sound alone. The PXA-H100 is excellent and as bonus to its magic, it also has 4V outputs which allow me to run the two PDX4.150 amps at the minimum gain level, resulting in no audible distortion at all! That was not at all the case with the previous install with 2V preouts from the PXE-H650 into the amps, as I raised volume, source/amps distortion came in very audibly before the speakers own came. Now I have no distortion at all when raising volume untill the moment one of the tiny 100KP starts to do strange noises, signalling time to reduce volume, which by then is higher than comfortable already.

Er... No. Under the round plug there's a screw that holds the phone console to a bracket which is attached to the center console. The phone console has actually two standard metal clamps in the back and two plastic clips tight into the slots of said console. Not that simple then. You need to do the unscrewing otherwise you'll break the bracket.

Just a quick note: on my MY2002 996TT, the cruise control works perfectly with full LED replacement.

There are bugs in it. Whenever I try to read the instrument cluster memory, it fails and wipes out the fuel! I then have to top the tank to get it to display more than 0 in it.

Done! Here's a few pics.

Thx Loren!

Anyone knows whether my roof lining (black) is alcantara or suede? I can't tell. From the PET, it seems that alcantara was available only for MY2005, with leather also available for all MY as the XMA option.

38, MY02 996TT, back in 2008. Considering a '59 356 cab or a '69 911. Or maybe a 1983 911 cab, white and Turbolook... So many options, so little money...

Thanks for your comments, Mark. Actually, my 996TT has a bit of silver in the interior, so I think it will be a nice match, but we'll see, since I just ordered one of those keychains. Next week I should have the job done and will post pictures!