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Everything posted by laalves

  1. I had this a few years ago, coolant slowly disappearing. Turned out to be a cracked expansion tank. Had to replace it.
  2. Hi all, I've installed two 997 original bucket seats (the ones with the foldable backs) in my 996TT. I seem to remember reading that somebody made carbon fibre covers to cover the side airbags in the seats (that are irrelevant for a 996, as those have them in the door panels). Does anybody know anything about this? Would love to remove the airbags and put CF covers on top, instead of those plastic covers with the AIRBAG lettering.
  3. Semi dead topic, but I've had these same codes over the years, that I ended up solving with on one occasion by replacing the MAF plug, that was cracked and lose and on another occasion, by replacing the famous ignition switch. On this last one, my typical symptoms (I've replaced it 2 times with aftermarket ones) are: both windows suddenly open during driving, whilst the cabin lights turn on and the car unlocks, after starting, unable to turn on headlights, if idling for a while (red light, jams) ABS/PSM lights turn on. As I'm having all of those currently, I have just bought the recommended part, the full assembly 996 347 017 07, which is now for all model-years, instead of just from -04 as initially was the case. Hope this helps.
  4. Thanks, but I've read in the meantime that the outer CV joint is not removable, so, to replace the wheel side CV boot, the procedure is to remove the diff side CV and its boot and slide the new wheel side boot. I stopped my efforts and am waiting for a new order of a diff side boot replacement kit to replace both. The outer CV joint is not even available as a spare part, we're supposed to replace the whole driveshaft if the CV joint gets shot.
  5. Dear all, So I had a torn outer front left CV boot. Since I am exchanging the struts for Öhlins R&T, it was a good time to take care of this. I already have the drive shaft removed and installed on my vice, and yet, despite opening the circlip with circlip pliers to the maximum, and hammering the CV joint with a rubber mallet (also tried a steel hammer, gently) at the same time, the joint does not budge by a mil, nothing. Any advice? Am I missing something? Should I get something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-Joint-Puller-Transmission-Drive-Shaft-Removal-Tool-9hole-Ball-Cage-Separator-/283125842818 and use it at the same time I open the circlip?
  6. After much, much deliberation, I've ordered the Öhlins kit, POZ MN02. Will probably only be able to install that in August, but will report back my findings.
  7. I could be interested. What about ride height? How much did you lose? In the end it's the equivalent to M030 or IX73 suspension, right?
  8. Hi all, My car is in need of new top strut supports due to old age, I suppose. I thought I had a go at doing that and to that purpose I'm looking into buying a QuickJack system, which is something I have been looking for an excuse to do for quite sometime. Anyway, since I'll have to do that, why not also replace all shocks, since those in there are 8 years old and about 70000km, so not on their prime as well and I thought about the Bilstein B6 ones. I don't want to lower ride height which means that I would either replace the shocks with stock ones or the B6s. Questions for the community: 1. Has anybody tried the B6s? My usage is 99.999999% road (tracked the car twice in the 10 years I've had it) but I wouldn't mind any improvement over stock. Having said that I dont't want any sort of negative reaction from the PSM and am wary of that. 2. Another tool I would need: spring compressors. Porsche recommends Klann (now Gedore) KL-0015 which cost about 1000€ (!!!). Something like this looks nice https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PEL013892SCH01A.htm?pn=PEL-013892SCH01A&SVSVSI=996J What do you guys use? Any recommendations very much welcome. Cheers, L
  9. Seems to me anodization will give a more permanent result, where as black paint will eventually flake away.
  10. Meanwhile, the central lock issues went away after replacing the battery BUT the two other gremlins are still in the car. - ABS, PSM off under the following circumstances: when idling, warm car, in neutral or park, after a couple of minutes, the warnings light up in the OBC display, while there is audible variation in the sound of the engine (rpm dropping 200 or 300, then up again). If I keep it in gear (Tip) while stopped, it doesn't happen. Durametric says: P0103 Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor 5525 Incorrect data transfer with DME master control unit This was happening a while back and replaced the MAF sensor with a new Bosch one. The issue remains, maybe less frequently but same deal. Turning the engine off and on resets the warnings. - Headlight cleaning system does not work. Took the headlights off, and the water sprays out of both LH and RH tubes, so electrically the system is workisng. I did replace the pump also, thinking it could have been a dead or weak pump, it was cracked open although it did run in the bench. Replaced it with a new one (made by Topran, not by VDO as the original in the car) but no joy. How come the sprinklers are not popping? Any ideas on my gremlins?
  11. Nope, just a JBL Class D digital signal processor. I do have two Alpine Class D amps connected to the outputs of the JBL, however I installed all these in 2008 when I bought the car and the Porsche/Moll battery that came installed only died in 2012 or 2013. I dont' know how old it was before that but 4/5 years is very good already. The Class D system I have in place is very good and power efficient. I remember doing the load calculations in 2008 and reaching the conclusion that I had ample reserve to spare, considering the battery and alternator specs.
  12. I have been using the PS2 N3 for the last 7 years/80000 kms and am a happy bunny with them. May be expensive but I believe they're worth the money. When I bought the car in 2008 it came with PZero Rosso that were too old/hard to wear but had no grip. When I changed all four to my first PS2 set it was night and day. I believe I'm currently in my 2nd front set and 4th rear set (these almost brand new).
  13. Huge battery installed, fits just fine. Hope it lasts for more than a couple of years... As to the gremlins, I'll see in the upcoming days whether they'll go away. The new ignition switch has not arrived yet but I'll put it in anyway AFTER I determine whether the gremlins were battery related.
  14. Funny you mention that, it just died this morning with no pre-warning. 2-years old Porsche Moll. Ordered a Bosch S5 013, 100Ah 830A for half the OEM 80Ah 800A that's in place. My car originally had the M197 option, so has a huge battery tray ready for larger batteries, hence my ordering the biggest Bosch that fits.
  15. Thx both, but I know about prices and P/N of the switch, the questions I asked were a bit more specific. Ideas anyone?
  16. Hi all, I currently have a few electric gremlins in my car that have been sneaking in in the last few months: 1. The headlight washers stopped working. Fuses all ok. Took the water pump off the reservoir and it was swollen and cracked open so I replaced it, thinking I nailed it. It didn't. The pump is working fine in the bench but still no joy... Got a relay to exchange and test. Nope. So I'm guessing headlight switch (going to check next if the headlight signal arrives at the relay) but... 2. A while back, I started getting occasional PSM fault followed by ABS fault. Durametric said Hot Film MAF and DME loss of comms (the usual ones). Got a new Bosch MAF (figured a 14 year old MAF was due for replacement anyway), still the problem persisted but much less. Replaced air filter, cleaned the air box, disappeared the issue BUT now I get it if I leave the car idling for a while, I will occasionally get the codes. Shutdown and restart clears the dash lights. The lights will not show up while driving, just when idling, which appears to rule out air leaks... 3. Occasionally, after starting the car, the windows would open by themselves, interior lights stay on for a while and it won't let me lock it with the inside button. Now, this happening 90% of the times I start, immediately after the start. All the rest of the lock/unlock system is working per spec, i.e., windows go down slightly pulling the handle, locks/unlocks with the remote, seat memory, detects correctly open bonnet/glove/arm rest lid, lights flash per spec, unlocks/locks with the key everything perfect, except this weird thing upon turning the key. Question 1: could all this be a sign of a failing ignition switch (4A0 905 849 B)? Is it worth it buying a more expensive branded one (Magnetti-Marelli, Valeo, 20-40€, etc) or a 5€ unbranded? Question 2: would I be better off replacing with the newer spec 996 347 017 07 full lock housing (I checked and have the older original one installed)? I can get a new one for 130€ versus the switch only for 5-40€, which is not a concern but still would like to know if it is worthwhile.
  17. Right, just took the tank out (pain in the neck), checked the pump and its plug. The pump tested fine with 12V outside the car, so that was not it. Since I had a new on hand, I replaced it anyway. The plug is the interesting bit: the two contacts are shorted, 0 ohm. When I remove the corresponding relay it reads open circuit. The relay itself, outside the car is shorted between P and 31, which looking at the attached diagram, only makes sense in case of a defective relay. What do you guys think? 996TT02 Wiring extract.pdf
  18. Interesting... The 2010 PET which I used shows this to be 996.618.113.00. I did check the right fuse. Anyway, just got the pump in the mail and will try it tonight.
  19. Headlights on, windshield washer on, should operate the headlight washers...
  20. I'm sorry, I don't understand what you are saying....
  21. I managed to order one new pump off ebay for 15€ so before I start disassembling things I have the part on hand. I'll replace it straight away and see if it works. If not, my next suspicion will be the relay which if I try to source it as Porsche's P/N 996.618.113.00 will cost upwards of 150€ but if I source it as Bosch's 1 397 328 015 it'll be 20€.
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