p0rsch3

If you are in so cal area and in need of mesh, my buddy has a shop in long beach and makes body parts + does tuning for numerous race teams / drag cars, etc. He has all the different stainless meshes and uses them on track cars, he did up my GT3 RS front opemings nicely. 1/8"-opening stainless weave mesh on the upper openings, and 1/4" square-opening weave mesh on the lowers. Bumper was removed and pieces were epoxied / screwed from the inside. Go to http://www.afterhoursautomotive.com - phone number is on the 'about' page, call and ask for the owner Brian. Tell him Kurt sent you. Brian is a really nice guy and incredibly talented. Sorry the pic of the lower center opening with 1/4" mesh is a bit dark- I'm no photographer.. :)

ok so this is bizzare and it's driving me nuts. I have this odd buzzing-snarl-rattle coming from somewere in the rear engine area whenever I floor the car from a stop or slow speed in 1st. This only happens when the car is under full load / WOT in 1st and i'm either stopped or practically stopped, and it is most prevalent at the lower end of the RPM range when car is pulling hardest to move the weight of the vehicle. It is very consistent and I can make it happen on command, drawback is the vehicle has to be moving which makes it tough to stand outside the car and troubleshoot... If I rev the car in N it does not occur. If I floor it in 2nd or other gear it does not occurr. I thought it might be a bad muffler so I just replaced them, and it is still happening. It is not the tips rattling either. I thought it might be the intake (K/N) kit and checked it for looseness, all looks good. Is there some sort of diverter valve or something that could be making this noise under the described conditions? It's a wierd buzzy-resonant-rattle sound that has a hint of mechanical to it. i'm ready to call a priest and sacrifice a small goat (...and not neccessarily in that order)

I lowered my car a while back and am tired of the headlights pointing at the ground, so I went to adjust it per the owners manual (pages 233/234). It says there is a hex socket, and when I look in the access hole opening it is so small and deep I cannot see what type / size it is. I guess I'll need to buy a long very thin hex tool but does anyone know what size the tool is?

Thank you Loren- Odd that the 54 error says 'tilt sensor' on the scanner, but it is in fact for the radio? I did swap mine out for an aftermarket nav. Guess I will start with replacing the interior sensor and go from there, does that sound reasonable? Hopefully that is an individually purchasable part.

My alarm has been periodically going off on it's own. I bought a durametric scanner and it showed a number of alarm faults. I'm not sure what some of them mean like 54, 60, can anyone assist? 54 - Tilt Sensor: not in idle position 33 - Interior Sensor Faulty (this one is obvious) 60 - Central lock limit position: lock not reached 42 - Wrong key or wrong transponder: pill (this is odd since both of my keys are definitely coded to the car and function fine.

Thanks Loren-

My alarm occasionally goes off for no reason. I'm thinking it is a faulty sensor in the door, engine compartment or front. I've ruled out the interior sensor by arming it with the sensor disabled. My girlfriend says it goes off occasionally because my pcar misses me and wants attention.. LOL The false alarms usually occurr early morning or late evening when the outside temperature changes. Does the sensor record an event in the computer when it is tripped? If so, I might be able to have the computer readout let me know which sensor was triggered so I can replace it? The Porsche dealer is absolutely no help. They just want to replace the entire brain (expensive) and hope it fixes things. This is driving me nuts because there is no way to lock the car without enabling the alarm.

'02 996 C2 here- Anyone know what the de-facto recommended plug gap is for '02+ 3.6L ? Looking at NGK, Autolite, Delco and most 'off the shelf' plug brands for MY02 996, they come gapped at 0.032" (.82mm). Bosch has a "fixed gap" and does not say on the box. I'm seeing 1.6mm suggested in a prev post concerning the Bosch plugs, which is 0.063" and a substantially larger gap. My Pcar has about 34k miles on it so am going to change plugs. At what mileage/age should I be considering replacement of wires and coils? Thanks in advance-

It should never shift back to auto if you physically have the shifter in the manual position. If you have the shifter in the auto position and hit the shift buttons, it goes to manual mode and will remain there until you stop manual-shifting for 8 seconds- then it goes back to auto-mode. One neat thing to try- leave the stick in auto mode and stop at a light or stop sign. hit the shift button to drop to 1st. it will stay there indefinitely until you drive off, then it will upshift to 2nd and back to auto mode. good way to get a jump off the line.

Peak RPM as in 'peak power' in the rpm band or as in redline? I thought it only upshifted in manual mode at redline as a safety feature / never tried it.

yep, I only put it in auto mode when i'm feeling extroadinarily lazy. the early roll-up is highly annoying and you have to mash the gas pedal to go anywhere when it's in 5th @ 40mph. You have to blip the gas pedal down quickly to get the tip to drop down some gears, if you accellerate slowly it stays in 5th dogging along. Some improvement will definitely come from modifying my driving habits to get used to operation of the tip in auto-mode, but there is also (IMO) alot of 'sport' left on the table. I have driven the E39 540i tip, E46 M3 SMG, E36 325 tip and E46 330i tip- both the 325 and 330i were dinan modified with tip software. All felt more sporty than the 996 tip. So I guess every car has it's strengths and weaknesses. All the 996 tip needs is some good software tweaking and it would be spot-on. If i manage to make any progress on that front through APR i'll let everyone know. Don't get me wrong though, I love my pcar :)

Appreciate your input- Yeah, there is always some inherent 'personality' with any tiptronic or SMG system. For example, my previous two BMW's were tip's, and they were way sloggy from the factory. Dinan tip software fixed that right up with nice crisp shifts and raised shift points (holds gears longer and stops up-thrust shifting). So, i'm used to the press-n-wait game, but the pcar tip is really poor comparatively (IMO).. I can deal with the slight delay, but the slow fade-in gear engagement is very tame for a pure sports car. If it were a crisp shift, that would be fine. Additionally, the up-shift points are very low in auto mode. I'm rolling 5th gear at 36mph?? also notice a fair amount of up-thrust shifting on decelleration. With the supposed 250 shift maps and adaptive computer (and I flog the heck out of my car), I expected more. Just my 2c. I'm not looking for F1-style perfection, just something that feels right for the car. IMO this tip would be at home in say... a CL500. The kicker here is, the car when cold shifts wonderfully (which you experienced since your car was cold). There is a 'warm up map' that the tip uses which holds the gears longer and firms the shifts, and in auto mode it starts out in 1st. When the engine reaches 32C, it goes back into slog mode. Too bad there's no way to keep it in the warmup map... APR is interested in writing a 'sport' tip software upgrade but that's 6 months away. GIAC scoffed at the idea, I guess they don't like to listen to customer suggestions.

My 2002 C2 tip is not that impressive. While I think the potential is there with some software tweaking, my experience is it's very slow to change gears. I hit the button and there is a 1/4 to 1/2 second delay, and the engage is a slow-fade-in instead of a firm gear change. Feel like this trans was made for a old-folks 'sport' luxury sedan. as a matter of fact, I can watch the gear shift indicator go to the next gear... and then after a delay the gear changes. Overall, I am quite bummed with the operation of it. Some of you say it's great - maybe mine is just not working right?

Well, your pcar looks just awesome as-is so I would't sweat it

Thank you for the kind remarks. Yeah now that i moved to an apartment and no longer have the luxury of a full garage, I have to make do with what I can. The lip only comes in black. It is poly. i'm sure you could paint it but IMO it is going to get scraped so why bother. You know it may fit the 99 as well- the width and circumference of the underside of the bumper looks pretty close to the 02+. BUT- I believe there is an under-lip available for the MKI GT2 bumper which would probably be the pre-facelift equivalent of mine. I think there is a Cup and a Street version of the Gt2 lip. Maybe Loren can help research if there is in fact a GT2 lip available? I think it's like $100.

A few more pics:

1. ------------------------------ DIY STUFF ------------------------------ Ok so here's the steps. This is a pretty easy install, you just need to have a good eye to line it up before you drill holes and screw down. 1. You need about 18" to 24" under the car to lay comfortably and adjust / fasten everything. Most of your work will be under the car. So, get something SAFE to jack up your car with- Don't be ghetto like me with the "angled driveway 2-brick method" - I do not want to be responsible for you getting squished. btw, I used OSHA-approved bricks... :D Lay out a blanket after you have the car up high enough and lay the lip under the car: (sorry for the crappy pics, the afternoon sun was coming straight in behind the car) Clean the underside of the bumper and if neccessary chip off any scraped plastic (for those of you who park by braille...). You want a smooth surface. you will want to line up the center of lip with the center line of the car. I used the center hole on the lip as a reference then stuck a sliver of white tape on the front edge of the lip. when I put the lip against the car the tape sliver gave me a center reference mark for the initial fitment. It is easiest to get your initial fit if you can sandwich the lip up to the car snugly, then move it around until it looks straight. i used a couple of boxes for the props that held the lip against the bumper. (those free Fedex boxes do come in handy!!) MEASUREMENT: I set the center of the lip 1/4" recessed from the front edge of the bumper. On right and left bumper corners, the mounting side edge of lip should be flush with the underside front edge of bumper. At the wheelwell sides, you should have approximately 1.2" of the lip ends protruding into the wheelwell area. If you line up initially to these specs, you are off to a good start. Now that you have it in place and have adjusted it around to get it even, use a piece of tape on the middle center of lip to hold the lip in place on the car. Ditto for each of the sides nearest the wheel well. Now crawl under the car and look at the center mounting hole of the lip. It should line up with the center screw that holds the bumper to the car. this is a good check to be sure that you have every thing centered. If you do not, you will see a lot of the orange tape of the lip sticking out on one corner of the bumper or the other. So it's pretty easy to tell when you have it just right. You should barely see orange tape at either of the bumper corners or sides. Now tape the lip to the bumper in several spots to hold it in place. (This pic is just for reference of line-up- You should not have your screws in yet). Starting on the drivers side of the lip, grasp the white masking tape handle on the orange sticky cover and begin peeling it off of the adhesive. do this slowly and gently so as not to move the lip. press the adhesive up firmly to bond to car. 2. Now, you will begin putting in your screws and washers. Start with the center and work your way out right / left. I used a dremel with drill tip to make 1/8" pilot holes, then used a screw gun to put the screws in. Do NOT over-tighten or you will strip the plastic. I put the screws in snug at first but was still able to slide the washers a bit. I made a second pass with a hand screwdriver and while pushing the washers forward, tightened each screw. Put in the rest of the screws and pull tape off. Remove boxes. You will have to make one new hole on each end closest to the wheelwell. Look on far right of pic- I popped in a new scew about 1" from wheelwell. Use a dremel and cut off the 1" lip overhang on each side. Check your screws for tighness, and you are done!

Install 02 GT3 chin spoiler on 02+ 996 standard bumper The project: Add lower chin spoiler to 2002 C2 standard bumper (08/01 and later facelift cars only). Cost - $211 plus ship Install time - about 1.5 hours Difficulty – 4 out of 10 (IMO) Tools – masking tape, screw gun, dremel Optional tools- two bricks, two medium size Fedex boxes (for the ghetto-style garage install..) Porsche part number: 996-505-986-92-01 I was trying to find a way to improve the aerodynamics of the OEM 02 C2 front bumper, without actually replacing the bumper. I figu Author p0rsch3 Category Carrera (996) - Mods Submitted 07/07/2007 09:27 AM

umm- so how do you get the tip buttons off and the airbag out? I have one loose tip button and need to replace it. no info to be found? anyone know of a diy thread?

This is exactly what I want to do. Where is the BOSE amp located ? how are the speakers connected ? Currently i have a traffic pro 4670 installed, it's a 2002 car. Have not been able to figure out if it is using the internal amp (4 outputs for speakers) or some lineout for an external amp ? How many BOSE speakers are there in a 2002 C4S ? How are they normally connected ? thanks The amp is located in the luggage compartment above the spare tire- You only need to work with the wires at the radio side- There are a front L/R pair of wires and a rear L/R pair of wires in the brown radio plug, and the wiring diagram is on the radio body or in your owner's manual for the radio. (it is like that on my CDR220 head unit, it should be similar for the traffic pro). There is one undocumented wire in the C3 plug (black w/ red stripe) that is the remote turn-on for the bose amp. It's a very easy wiring job, you hook up the speaker outputs of the aftemarket NAV/DVD to the speaker wire inputs of the car. The bose sub uses a summed signal from the speaker wires and is connected to the bose amp directly. Check out my DIY thread here: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84794 This my finished result- I also relocated the AC control to the upper slot of the lower console:

LOL - Yeah, I guess Porsche is working that extra-$$ angle whenever possible... :censored:

Thanks very much Loren- What MY is your manual? I noticed you have the 1-button remote, mine is the 2-button. They omitted the change-remote-battery section in the owners manual that came with my '02 pcar- Well, today is going to be a fun day- I get to spend all of it installing a Kenwood DNX7100 double-din NAV/DVD unit and customizing the AC controls to fit the top slot of the lower console- good times :)

Hmm- I must have the "abridged" version.. All it covers is how to use it, but not how to physically open the key head. I also looked in the MY2003 996 owners manual online here, and no dice as well. Can you post your section?

I just got a new remote key head and am trying to figure out how it pops open. don't want to damage it in the 'experimenting' process. anyone have a link to article, service manual or just know how the thing opens?