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Certainly no performance related tweeks from the GT3 RS were incorporated into the 2005 GT3, which was virtually identical to the 2004 model. There may have been some new colors for 2005 or a new option or two but nothing significant that I can recall. Karl
KarlS replied to drbehavior's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)One additional point to add to Loren's description. To remove the front calipers, you not only have to remove the 10 mm hex bolts but there is also a small bolt (8 mm if I remember correctly) that fastens the speed sensor cable to the wheel upright. You need to unscrew this in order to get the caliper off the rotor and hang it out of the way. It's not hard to do but it's easy to miss because it's hard to see unless you work from under the car. Karl
KarlS replied to JotaEmE's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Other than oil spots under the engine, you won't notice any performance issues and there is no danger of blowing the engine. Just keep an eye on the oil level but it usually doesn't leak fast enough to even need to add a liter between changes. Karl
I don't see how a failed MAF would affest the ABS or PSM systems. It would throw a check engine light but I don't think it would affect braking or traction control. I suspect that what was happening on the track was you were threshold braking in a rough or bumpy part of the track. This will cause the ABS to go crazy cycling to try an regain traction. Eventually, it will give up and throw the ABS light. Since the same sensors are used for PSM, it makes sense that you could see a warning light there as well. Did you notice if the ABS warning was coming on in the same braking zone each time? Karl
KarlS replied to my996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)One suggestion is that use a line wrench rather than a standard open end wrench to loosen the brake line nut where it connects to the caliper. I forget the size (I think 8 or 10mm) but a using an open end wrench risks damaging the nut, which will make the whole job much more painful. A line wrench (can be found at Sears or Snapon.com) wraps around 5 sides of the hex nut to prevent rounding it off. Also, buy a selection of rubber tips at an auto parts place to use to plug the end of the brake line when you remove it. This will prevent brake fluid from spilling all over and make the bleeding process a little easier. Karl
KarlS replied to danjen's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)The traction control on the 99 models used the ABS system to sense slippage in the rear wheels under acceleration and then reduced ignition timing or applied the brakes to control the slip. On a wet road, it should help you get the car going in 1st gear without spinning tires and it will help you under acceleration in a corner even on a dry road. It is not PSM and therefore will not do anything to save the car if you take a corner too fast. It will only help under acceleration in a corner or on a wet surface. If you can break the rear tires loose under acceleration in a straight line on a wet road, it doesn't sound like the TC is working. You may want to have it checked by a dealer or good independent shop. Karl
KarlS replied to Scouser's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Hmm, I just had the RMS replaced in my GT3 and it took a week at the dealer. Part of that was waiting for the part but I talked to the tech and he told me he need special tools that had to be ordered and that the old RMS was a bear to get out. This didn't sound like a DIY job to me but I'll be interested to read the article. The mag is sitting in my TBR pile. Karl
KarlS replied to J9000's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Unfortunately, Porsche does not sell parts to repair the G96 tranny. so replacing it is the only option when something fails. The tranny on my 1999 also failed for its new owner but fortunately I had transferred my extended warranty to the new owner. I think your options are to get a factory fresh tranny from the dealer or to buy the used tranny and hope it lasts. You probably want to consider how long you plan on keeping the car. You can probably save a little on labor by using an independent Porsche shop instead of the dealer but this is not a cheap job to do in any case. Karl
KarlS replied to EnglishSteve's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)You might want to try new clamps. I seem to recall a similar issue when I installed an aftermarket exhaust on my 996. I replaced the clamps with new ones and the problem went away. If I remember correctly, the new clamps didn't cost much. Karl
Have they told you what is actually involved in this job? I'm no expert but from what I know of engine rebuilds, doing the head is much easier compared to getting into the case. Pulling the engine and tranny shouldn't be a big deal, assuming they have all the right tools. Once the engine is out, get the head off would seem pretty straight forward as well. You may want to talk to Kelly Moss or someone to see what's really involved. Maybe it's not that difficult. I don't think it matters too much which dealer you take it to. I doubt if any of them actually do much engine rebuilding, especially on the late model cars. I know my dealer usually subs out that work to a race shop near by. BTW, if you talk to Kelly Moss you may want to ask if they actually do the rebuild work inhouse. There aren't many people who can do it and it's not all that profitable, so many shops end up subbing it out. Karl
I suspect that by increasing the rear tire width (from 265 to 285) but not changing the front, all you will do is increase the inherent understeer that's already designed into the car. I would suggest sticking with the 265 size unless you want to spend the money to change all four, in which case, I would suggest a set of Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 in a 245/40 and 295/30 configuration. BTW, are you sure the Sport Design front rims are 7.5"? I thought they were 8". If the front wheels are only 7.5", then you are pretty much stuck with the tire size you have. Any wider tire up front will require at least an 8" rim. Karl
Congrats, you chose the easiest approach. You can also do it, as you suggested, by removing the calipers but that's a lot more work and then you have to make sure to torque the calipers properly. I find that the trick to get the pistons to fully retract is to apply pressure to all 4 at the same time. This is easier to do with the old pads still in. You can use a wrench or long screwdriver to pry on the ears of the pads and get them to spread but I prefer a pad spreading tool, which is available from many auto parts places. I have a nice BMW tool that I got from the ultimategarage.com that makes retracting the pistons a piece of cake. Karl