dezpimpdada

Hey everyone, newbie here!

I got a 97 boxster that was in a wreck. I cant get the key out? Also, I keep reading that the keys are programed, but mine doesnt have enough room in the plastic peice to hold a battery? I only have one key also. I tried searching the word "key" but nothing come up.

thanks in advance!

i would agree with Richard on the ignition unit. check position of key if its off then definitely the ignition switch. tip of removing the key, sometimes if u keep on turning it back and forth it will bring it back to position and u will be able to remove it. it worked for me. good luck

updates

i have the car looked at on saturday and was told it is not likely the tranny. maybe the heat shield or bad cat. i am hoping its not the cat because i had just passed 80k miles for the emissions warranty limit. loose heat shields i can deal with. i am bringing the car to dealership next week for a " better" diagnostic. ^_^

hi all, my 02 boxster S 6 speed with 80k miles has been having vibrating metal hitting noise. first thougth is loose parts in the exhaust system ( heat shield, cat. convertr, etc). it is ongoing for the pass 20k miles i never really look into it too much, until one day i decided to take it to Midas. the guy showed me with the car lifted the source of noise and thinks its coming from the transmission. with the car at idle, i hear from the transmission area metal grinding/ rotary sound, but this is differrent than when the engine is ravved up the vibrating metal noise becomes very noticeable. if i drive in the alley or somewhere that creates echos, you can really hear the noise. its mostly in 1st and 2nd gear at start up or on reverse, also louder with higher rpm at idle or taking off. a local shop shows me a loose arm/bar attached to the outer trasmission next to the muffler and thinks that's part of the problem. he suggested the only way to fix that is a new transmission but its ok to drive the car.

i have the clutch replaced at 32k miles now its at 80k but it still drives fine. no problem with changing gears or any unusual feelings when driving the car. i have an appointment with a porsche guy this week but would like to know if i can get some info regarding this or if anyone's having the same problem.

i was having CEL p1128/1130 and took the car to a smog shop to test the cap. it passed but the cap has many cracks on the inside. the tech says sometimes it may pass the test however it doesn't always guarantee that it is holding pressure to the factory standard.

i am getting a new one even thougth my problem was caused by a bad AOS.

Cheers!

Ok so i have been having reoccurring P1128 and P1130 as well. I did the AOS about 1k miles ago.

My idle is not rock solid as i would like it to be but it is right between the 6-8 marks. Also the cars at times will slightly shake at idle....im not sure if its a problem , or do i need to reset my DME after the AOS install.

it takes 2 days for the CEL to come after reset.

is the idle fluctuaing up and down ? if it is then it may be due to dirty throttle body, just need to clean it. i was having that problem until i removed the TB and cleaned it, u can use TB or carburator spray.

the problem turns out to be the AOS. now no more CEL after replacing the AOS and the car is driving ok with 50k miles test.

good news!!!

after having the AOS replaced the car is back to normal ( with 50 miles tested), i am a happy camper.

thanks Chris and Renntech ~

so far no other parts needed to be replaced, ex. o2 sensor, plugs, cat. convt, MAS.

now i was going to clean the MAS but my mechanic told me " if it ain't broke..............don't fix it" so i guess i will just leave it alone right now.

i hear sometimes certain cars run better with platinum or iridium plugs, but some worse. i have asked porsche service pp why porsche is not using premium plugs but no one seems to know why. just the way factory design them i guess.

Chris,

i am having the AOS changed today, i will post after the work is done to see if that fix the problem. ( there was a lot of white somke when i started the car this morning.) i am hoping it didn't cause additional problem already.

As far as the plugs go, Bosch only sells regular 4 style instead of platinum 4. only NGK sells iridium for boxster S 2000 and up. 1999 and below would have a lot more choices from differrent makers.

thanks Chris for the detailed explanation. i will order the AOS today and start FIXING the problem.

as far as having oil in the TB i did noticed some oil in the TB the day before yesterday when i was checking for loose connections. but not as much as yours. maybe like u said its only the begining of the problem.

last time i did tune up to the car i used Beru plug from porsche. do u think its necessary to go with factory or have you tried using NGK laser platinum or iridium plugs??

yup, sounds like classic air-oil separator (AOS) failure.

what you need to do is look inside the throttle body and/or J-tube for more than just a misting of oil. my TB looked like this: (more below...)

that liquid is black gold/texas tea compliments of the AOS not doing its job.

as far as your oil level is concerned, the dash oil gauge only shows (approx) the top 1 liter of oil. when the gauge shows no 'bars', you are down 1 liter/quart. there are still ~8 liters left. the oil gauge level will change periodically and will certainly not be accurate right after you shut the car off. oil in the engine passages needs time to get back to the oil pan to be measured. when you pulled over and shut the car off, there was still plenty of oil in the passages. after the car sat for a while and most of the oil had made its way back to the pan, you then saw a full display on your oil gauge.

additionally, over time oil becomes contaminated with gas and water (normal by-products of combustion). if you take short trips where the engine does not get up to operating temp, more gas/water gets in the oil and gets measured along with the oil. when you drive at operating temp and at high revs, this will remove some gas/water and you may notice a substantial drop on your dash oil gauge as a result - although you have not lost any 'oil' at all. this is also normal, and will allow you to get a more accurate oil reading. the best time to check oil is first thing in the morning after the car has been sitting all night and the oil has had plenty of time to return to be measured.

in a perfect world, you want to reach engine operating temperature every time you drive the car (10-20 minutes of 'normal' driving). and you don't ever want to 'warm up' the car by letting it idle in the driveway. what i do is start the car, wait 15-20 seconds for the oil to get where it needs to go, and then drive gently, not going over 4K RPMs until the engine is up to temp (5-10 minutes after the coolant temp reaches 180). once the engine/oil/transmission/suspension is warmed up, feel free to get that tach all the way to redline if you want. (also known as an 'Italian tune-up') ;) these practices will keep gas/water in your oil to a minimum and allow all the car's metal engine/transmission parts to expand uniformly and slowly. your engine will thank you for it. :)

to answer your questions:

1. the computer (OBD-II system) is giving off more codes because your problem is getting worse. (i.e. the AOS is feeding enough oil into the cylinders that it is causing misfires). you should start fixing things at the AOS. this is the beginning of AOS failure as you are only having misfires in Cylinder 4, the first cylinder on the driver's side (right behind your back). if you don't change the AOS, the oil will eventually make its way to all cylinders. it is very good that you caught this early.

2. i would not clean the MAF yet. wait until you've changed the AOS and you get a CEL. you want to isolate the problem and if you clean the MAF AND change the AOS, which one was the problem part? (although it is quite obvious it is the AOS). plus, your MAF may be fine and if it ain't broke... ;)

3. can you drive the car as long as the CEL is not flashing? yes, except when you suspect AOS failure. the AOS could feed enough oil into your engine that the engine fails (catastrophically). DON'T drive it.

4. the AOS' part number is on the top side of the AOS. then look on the Pelican Parts Part Lookup Catalog http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...USA_KATALOG.htm in the Engine section under Crankcase Bleeding and you will see that the latest AOS for your car is 996-107-023-04-M100. it really doesn't matter what the old part number is because it has failed regardless of whether it is the latest model or the original. my guess is that it is the original. AOSs usually go bad around 60-80K miles.

5. after changing out the AOS, change the spark plugs. after you remove the old plugs and before you put the new plugs in, give the engine a few quick 1-second cranks by turning the key. this will blow out any remaining oil in the cylinder(s). the car obviously will not start as there are no plugs in. ;) after that, put the new plugs in and make sure all the coil pack connectors are firmly connected to their ignition wires (they SNAP in). here's a pic of the connection. the rubber boot is pulled back so you can see where it snaps together.

don't forget to also buy a new J-tube (part # 5 in the diagram below). the 'accordion tube' or 'bellows' (part # 10) comes with the AOS (part # 1). all the necessary fasteners/clips are included. you will re-use the mounting screws from your old AOS.

if you are not due for an oil change, you don't *need* to change the oil. if you *want* to change the oil, that's up to you, but it's not necessary. check the oil level via the dipstick and just top it up if it needs it.

i have found that www.SunsetImports.com and www.SuncoastPorsche.com have the best prices, but in this case, Pelican's don't look too bad either. figure $120-130 for both the AOS and J-tube + shipping. it is a rather simple DIY replacement; however, access is the hard part. here's a link to the DIY with pics. http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement

and here's a diagram:

good luck!

hi All, hope some of you may have the answer for me!!!

2002 boxster S, manuel 78k miles, never

after bringing the car to my mechanic today for the CEL p0507, p1128, p1130, while driving home on the freeway for about 20 mins( i also noticed on/off white smoke), the CEL started flashing with very slight engine vibration, so immediately i pulled the car to the side ( thanks Loren) and noticed the oil level is down to less than half full. so i have it towed just to avoid potential damages. at home i checked for the codes again it now gives me p0507, p1128, p1130 and p0300 multi misfire, p0304 misfire cyl.4. when i was getting the codes out i noticed the oil level is back to normal. now i thought the reason the oil level went down was due to the burning of oil which explains the white smoke, especially at start up.

i started having white smoke at start up when i first got the CEL p0507, p1128, and p1130. these codes have been consistant in the last 3 readings. prior to these i also had p0430 (bank 2) which never came back after i erased it, instead i got the p0507, p1128 and p1130.

so far i have checked and cleaned the throttle body and checked all fittings leading to the TB. i was gonna clean the MAF today after visting my mechanic but i never got to it before what took place on the freeway going home.

1. does anyone know what might be going on since the computer is giving off more codes each time and where should i start fixing first.

2. should i still clean the MAF anyways.

3. i was told its still safe to drive the car as long as the CEL is not flashing and if oil level is low just add it. is it true ??

4. how do u check if AOS is newer or older style.

car is not over heating, coolant level is good.

thanks guys

Paul

ok, i just finished removing and reinstalling the TB and checked all fittings. nothing seems to be ripped or broken. i couldn't get a new seal that connect the flange to the TB, however i did remove it to inspect it and also turned it around before putting everything back. what i noticed during was that there is a samll indentation on the rubber tube that connects to the flange after the TB and to the left side of the car, can't really see where it connects. the size of this tube is about 3/8 or 5/16. the mark is made by constant rubbing with the TB, i tried to look at it closely which i don't think there is a hole but am not 100 % sure. i am thinking to just cut it out and replaced it anyway just to see if it may help.

now since all are suggesting its an air leak is there a safe and easy way to check the vacuum system??

thanks all again for the help

thanks i will give it a try. too bad it won't happen until 3 wks later since i will be doing some traveling. hope the heat wa :P :P ve here won't kill the car while im gone. :P

Off the top of my head i think there is 1 moulded rubber seal from the TB to the flange this should not be reused for re-assembly. (you need a new one)

Would say a small split or worn gasket could be the issue, should be cheap to fix (they are alot less than 02 sensors)

Sam, do u have pic to this seal? i can't seem to find it online? i am assuming this is sold thru dealerships only right?

thanks i will give it a try. too bad it won't happen until 3 wks later since i will be doing some traveling. hope the heat wa :P :P ve here won't kill the car while im gone. :P

Your car is running lean. Recheck all your fittings and connections related to the throttle body cleaning. Something may be loose, torn or broken causing a vacuum leak.

Topless,

i will check the hoses as you suggested, however the problem begin with P0430 which indicates for catalytic convertor or oxygen sensor. do you think they are related? thanks again.

Yes, it is very likely. When the mixture is not right the O2 sensors start squaking and throwing codes. They simply report all issues and problems upstream.

topless,

so originally when i got the Code P0430 ( insufficeint catalyst..........h2O 2 bank 2) does that mean its only the passenger side is bad?? or do i have to change set of 2? also how do i determined if pre- cat or post cat? anyone??

should i pay for oem at 150 each or buy the univeral ones on ebay or much less money. anyone experienced the univeral ones?

Your car is running lean. Recheck all your fittings and connections related to the throttle body cleaning. Something may be loose, torn or broken causing a vacuum leak.

Topless,

i will check the hoses as you suggested, however the problem begin with P0430 which indicates for catalytic convertor or oxygen sensor. do you think they are related? thanks again.

hi all, need some help here with multiple CEL codes. first time about 3 days ago, driving on the freeway when suddenly cel came on, reading that day shows P0430 ( insufficient catalyst.....). car was driving fine. no signs of any problem before and after i erased the code. last night, again on freeway, light came back on, now the codes are P0507 ( idle control systerm rpm high), P1128 manufacturer control fuel air metering, and P1130 manufacturer control fuel air metering.

the car is now driving or idling at much higher rpm (1200-1300) and sometimes even fluctuate higher. so am i facing two seperate issues or is one thing leading to another? any suggetions on possible DIYs or fix?

only thing i did was i recently removed the throttle body to clean it to fix the idle, about two month ago. car was idling much better after that.

catalytic converter is warranteed at 8 yrs 80k miles according to the dealer with vin check. :renntech:

If you CEL is on steady it is safe to drive the car. If the CEL is flashing then it should not be driven.

hi Loren, thanks for the answer.

i just got the scanner from autozone. it now gives me P0507 idle control system rpm high, P1128 manufacturer control fuel air metering, and P1130 manufacturer control fuel air metering. The original code P0430(bank 2) is not showing at this time. now i am wondering if the bad cat. or oxygen sensor had triggered bad fuel/air mix which leads to high rpm (1200-1300) at idle or if i am in deep trouble. any thoughts??

hi all,

i am also having problem with the same CEL p0430. it happened 2 days ago. i reset the CEL to see if it returns, it was good for one day until last night i was driving on the freeway and the light came back on, this created a new problem. car now idles at elevated RPM appro. 1200-1300 and sometimes even shoots higher then drops back to about 1200. is it still safe for me to drive the car? engine seems to be making more noise now, however temperature seems to be ok. any suggetions??

EIblanco, did u ever find out if the cats are warranteed at 8 yrs 80k miles??

just a FYI, i found someone in vegas that will replace both bearings in alternator for 80 bux. a rebuild alternator will cost around 5-600 bux.

Dez

Did you ever get your engine noise problem resolved? You should open top engine access panel and also panel behind seats. Leave your top in service position so that you can listen for noise from the top as well as front of the engine. With car running, you should be able to narrow down the location of the noise. If it is the alternator, the noise should be coming from the upper left (when looking at the front of the engine from behind the seats. If water pump, noise near lower left (again looking from behind the seats).

I too am chasing a noise ... metal grinding or flapping. But noise is intermittent and only when I sit on the accel between 1-2000 rpm. My noise seems to be coming from on top of the engine, somewhere near the driver side intake manifold. Let us know your situation.

Thanks,

Hung

Hung

no more noise :D

i replaced the water pump but the noise was still there, then i was told about the alternator which i never replaced.

guys at sunset porsche suggested to remove the serpentine belt and turn all rotors to test all the pulley bearings, and everything seemed to be ok. after i re-install the belt the noise was gone. i have no explanation on how the noise just disappered. however i did remove the panel to listen for the noise and im sure it was coming from the pulley next to the alternator. i guess that was why i was told that i needed a new alternator. i didn't go for it cuz they wanted $1500 to replace it, and i am not crazy.

i hope this helps.

PS: i have a spare pulley if u need it.

ok guys, need some help here. i was told today that the noise is from the alternator!!! it is a grinding sound that's constant, clutch doesn't affect it. there's no CEL, no battery light, car drives fine. so my question is if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car have start up problem due to insufficient charge. second, is it normal for bad alternator to make grindy noise? thanks all

so i have the water pump replaced and the noise is still there!!! i will bring the car to another PORSCHE SPECIALIST, hopefully this will help fix my problem. i still think it may be the pulley or tensioner. again, the car is driving good except for the noise, no CEL. any thoughts ???

ok so i had the car checked at a porsche specialist today, turns out the water pump is bad. never would have thought that, was guessing more of tensioner or pully. anyway, the guy says its a commom problem for porsche water pump to go out. at least now i know i don't have a bad engine. cheers :D

i have a 02 boxster S with 66k miles, two days ago the car started having noise coming from the engine. no CEL , car drives fine just having constant rotary, metal grinding sound. it is not affected by the clutch or accel padel. sounds very similar rotors being machined but quieter. anyone with similar experiences? by the way, not sure if its related but prior to getting home 2 days ago, i had miss shifted turing into my block, that's when i first noticed the noise after parking my car.

thanks for your help!!!

Try not to drive it, get to a garage and have someone pinpoint the problem. Could be minor, but worse case scenario your making it much worse the more you drive it.

PK

thanks PK, i will try to have someone check the car tm, hopefully its nothing major. i have called the porsche dealership and first appt is next monday, however the service adviser seems to think if no CEL and drives fine should be ok for now.

i have a 02 boxster S with 66k miles, two days ago the car started having noise coming from the engine. no CEL , car drives fine just having constant rotary, metal grinding sound. it is not affected by the clutch or accel padel. sounds very similar rotors being machined but quieter. anyone with similar experiences? by the way, not sure if its related but prior to getting home 2 days ago, i had miss shifted turing into my block, that's when i first noticed the noise after parking my car.

thanks for your help!!!