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Everything posted by dezpimpdada

  1. opened oil cap with engine running............there's some suction but not difficult to open. i think my replaced AOS is still holding ok. now all i have to do is to pick up a new coolant cap and hopefully its that easy.
  2. i just checked the coolant cap and sure it was ending in 01......i will go pick one up and see if that fix the problem. i don't think and hopefully not another AOS issue since i had already replaced it once.
  3. the sound is coming from the engine oil cap and engine itself not the coolant area. as i listen closely its almost like a high pitch vacuum sound........
  4. Hi all, i recently noticed a strange sound when i opened my rear trunk to take out my computer bag. it sounds like something is boiling..........like a bubbling sound when you boil water. as i listen closely i noticed its coming from the oil cap. the sound is louder if i remove the oil cap. the car drives fine and engine is not over heating. i had the AOS replaced some 20k miles ago. car has about 104k now. i brought the car to the mechanic and he has no clue on what could have caused it. its only making that noise when the car is hot, after driving for a long time. does anyone know what's going on? i just want to make sure this is not something big waiting to happen. thanks by the way, the engine is off Paul
  5. ok i don't want to sound dumb! but is it the only way for checking the alternator belt is by going to the engine compartment and do a physical inspection? if so i am assuming i have to access it from behind the seats, is there another belt turning the alternator besides the polyrib? i didn't notice the car running hot at all since i had to drive 35 miles home over the weekend from my friend's house.
  6. hi James, i don't believe there is a voltage meter in my on board computer. at least not to my knowledge. i will double check again but am pretty sure i don't have such meter. when i turn on the car the battery light turns on immediately. and i feel that when everything start to shut off the engine was getting weaker as well.........
  7. 02 boxster S 6 speed. hi guys, another problem arise of my beloved boxster. i just had the battery replaced about a month ago ( group 48 from costco) over the weekend the battery light came on as i was driving. everything else is fine. i drove to my friend. turned off and on the engine, the light is still on so i just left it. drove home fine that night. car had been parked for 2 days and earlier today i took the car out again but just one minute out i noticed the abs light came on then break light and radio went dead and ac then even the headlight, the entire electrical system just went haywire. i took the car home and car wouldn't start anymore. i put in another battery ( brand new) and was able to start it again and all lights were off except for the battery light is still on. i turned to the owner manual and it says to not to operate the car at all because of charging system failure or broken drive belt. has anyone had similar problem? is it true that i can't drive the car anymore? i am thinking about driving the car to the mechanic tm but am a bit concern now since reading the manual, also since i installed a new battery and the battery light is still on i am suspecting the alternator is the problem. any suggestions??
  8. updates on my insurance claim, i talked to the material damage supervisor from my insurance co today and was able to persuade him to authorize me a new top instead of the window only. basically i told him that i could have taken the car to porsche dealership and have them pay for the tab for an OEM top or i can go with a potentially bad plastic window replacement and then have them replace the whole top again. so i think he realizes that its the best solution just to give me a new top, ohh and of course being an insurance co they are charging me -35% betterment for the age of the top ( 3 yr old OEM top replaced by porsche under warranty). i think i will go with what everyone suggest here a glass window top. small window means more time to enjoy with the top down =) i have seen some for sale on ebay for around 5-600, anyone with suggestions??
  9. Last year My vandalized 2002 needed a new top. I chose to go glass. The Robbins top made to fit my 2002 frame with re-used headliner, worked great. I paid the $60 (really...only $60) difference between a plastic window top and the glass top. I am very happy I did the upgrade. My insurance company cut me and the shop a joint check and I paid the difference. Robbins maks high quality tops. Here in the Northwest, we see tons of rain. No leaks, no issues and I would do it again in a heartbeat. Good luck. Biker, i am assuming you changed the entire top instead of just the window right? because i have asked to see if there's any option to replace the plastic to glass window and was told that only way to do is to replaced the top with after market. it would be great if i can recycle the old top and convert to glass window.
  10. hi all, i took my boxster to a car wash and came home with a 2 inch tear on my convertible top plastic window. contacted the manager on the phone and he said that his workers wash cars but don't break windows ( smart ***), and also he had signs posted that due to temperature variations they are not responsible if windows crack. i told him that it doesn't apply to plastic window that it was done by the negligence of his workers but he didn't even want me to see the car and advised for me to seek "alternatives". he was a total a-hole. bottomline is, i contacted my insurance, at first they offered to replace the whole top due to porsche standard on not replacing the top. they set up the inspection and insisted that i go with after market parts that comparable to porsche instead of OEM top done at the dealership, fine so i agreeed just to get this fixed first. then came the inspector who saw the car and told insurance that the top is in good shape ( replaced by porsche little over 3 yrs ago), and only needs a new window. so insurance called upholstery shop and found someone in LA that will replace only the plastic window for 400 dollars and since the top is 3-4 years old they minus 20% betterment which leaves me with around 300 dollars to replace the window. wow i was shocked to hear this because i have seem some badly replaced plastic windows and they are ugly. the stitching are all over the place and window material looks crappy. i refuse to make over my porsche to a miata standard. ( no offense to miata fans) i am gonna call the insurance and request that they replace my top instead of the plastic window. i thought that under CA law you are allowed to bring your car to any shop for repair? also if the policy calls for "comparable parts" instead of OEM shouldn't the insurance co authorize a new top instead of a replaced plastic window since to porsche's standrad and guideline the plasctic window cannot be replaced???? thanks all for your help to fight the evil ins co! Paul
  11. ok since it is impossible to check the mechanism of the booster spring i have ordered a new one from sunset. takes two weeks to ship from germany. no stocks here since its an uncommon failure. does anyone have the diagram on removing the booster spring? thanks, Paul
  12. swede and glyn, am i suppose to look for loose spring parts or even if the spring has snapped it will remain in the plastic sheath? i looked at the pedal today and didn't see anything hanging out or hanging loose. but the clutch pedal sure if hell of heavy when i step on it. thanks
  13. i took a very quick look at the pedal yesterday without seeing anything unusual. i will check tm again in detail to make sure that i didn't miss it. will keep y'all posted. i didn't experience a popping from the clutch pedal one prior time, it was caused by a broken clip. however the symptoms are differrent because that time the problem was that the clutch pedal was sticking for a split second before it returns. now this time, its changed the way the clutch engages and also the clutch got very hard/heavy with some free play.
  14. hi All, i was driving a few nights ago when i felt a Pop or snap under my clutch pedal. since then the clutch's felt very hard and much deeper with free play. it used to be the clutch would engage all the way up but since the incident it now engages very quickly, and much shorter. i want to say the clutch itself is not worn cuz it just can't happen over night. i am suspecting the master or slave cylinder to be the problem but am not sure. i am still puzzled on how the pop/snap can be linked to this. any advice would be appreciated. 2002 boxwter s 6 speed Paul
  15. i called today and they have the mobil 1 5w-50 in stock, also the delvac 75w-90 gear oil. only problem is that u must have an acct with them and they will not sell the gear oil by the gallon but only by the case of 4 so i guess i need to find someone to share it with.........if anyone is interested in the southern CA area PM me i am located in the SF valley.
  16. i have been doing some reading regarding changing the gear oil for my 02 boxster S. factory uses only mobil PTX ot shell transaxle synthetic. some recommd using mobil delvac 75w-90. i am curious to know if anyone has tried to mix some of the lucas products to the factory oils. i have been told that adding lucas oil stabilizer with the gear oil can prevent slipping for the older/ high mile cars. my friend has tested this on his 88 E30 M3 and gotten great results, but i am still a bit sketical on putting anything other than the factory recommd. i have used lucas fuel treatments and noticed some improvement in gas milage. any thoughts guys~
  17. ohh shoot i have tried to press the switch a few times to test the motor just to make sure that its still in working order, hopefully that didn't do any damage to the form. i will check immediatly tonight. i have already ordered the clips and the cable. i guess i will go pick up the tubular inserts too as u suggeted. thanks Maurice for all the suggetions. i will update my progress once i got the parts and have put everything back together.
  18. Paul: The pushrods are under pressure at certain points in the travel of the top and of the clamshell. The rear ones (black hydraulic pushrods) are much more difficult, especially when the clamshell is in the full down position. For the front pushrods (with the red cups on them), if you can't reach under there or get enough leverage to pop them off, you can unscrew the 10mm bolt (with the fat washer) that's about in the middle of the pushrod and the canvas part of your top can then move freely. MAKE SURE THAT YOU MARK the spot where the two parts of that pushrod meet so that you can duplicate the overall length of the pushrod when you have everything squared away. Once you unscrew the bolt, the pushrod will come apart in two pieces. One piece will be dangling on the V-lever. The other piece will be the red plastic cup still hanging on the steel ball. You can then pop off the red plastic cup by moving the top back and forth so that you can get the best access. Also, be careful if you rotate the V-levers with the half pushrod now hanging on it because it's easy to gouge/rip/tear the foam drain tray liner when it's dangling. The rear pushrods (black hydraulic) are more difficult because they are under more pressure, especially in certain positions of travel of the V-lever. If you can't lever them off, you can try to undo the thin clip that holds one end of the pushrod onto the clamshell arm. If you can't reach that one, you can unscrew the part of the steel ball that goes through the other end of the V-lever by using a THIN 14mm open end wrench on the nut (which is on the opposite, [outboard] side of the V-lever). It's tough to reach that nut, and it's tedious because you can only get a few millimeters of rotation at a time, but it can be done. A couple of questions: What position is your clamshell in now? Does the top move at all when you press the switch? Does the clamshell move? Does the clamshell move evenly on both sides or is it lopsided? It's too early to diagnose the transmission(s). It may just be the classic too short inner (speedometer type) cable syndrome. If the inner cable is too short, the electric motor will not be able to turn the transmission on that side. The inner cable could also be fraying or unraveling somewhere in the middle of the outer sheath. Do a search on here an you'll find plenty of explanations about the stretching of the outer sheath, which results in the "retracting" of the inner cable. If you are mechanically inclined, it's pretty easy to repair or replace the cables or to replace the transmissions. Regards, Maurice. great info Maurice, with your suggestion and some researchs here i was able to remove both rods. i removed the clam shell ones by removing the clips which took about few secs on each side, broke the clips but oh well those were the last of my concerns. i was able to access the red rods thru the openings in the back with clam shell lifted, popping them off were pretty simple i used a y- shape nail remover which fits prefectly under the tight space and popped them off easily. next i went to the cables by removing both clips that hold down the cables and pulled them out to inspect the length of them, left side about 3/4 to one inch long but the right side is about 50% more in length then compared to the left side. i gave both a nice tuck left side feels tight but right side immediately came loose and i was able to pull and insert it back and forth. so at this time i am sure that i have a bad cable on the passenger side. now, i haven't tested the motor to see if it will move forward or rotate with all rods removed. i will do that next Maurice, clamshell was in full upright position, didn't seem to be tilted. top was stuck before i pop loose the rods, it was moving back but not forward. when i tried to bring it fw it makes a single clicking noise, seems to me the motor is trying to engage but the gears are stuck almost similar to a bad starter where it makes a click but no rotation. i called the dealership to ask for the cable and i was told that there is only one type of cable now i have read here that since they updated the system many parts also have been updated is there a part number for me the reference to when i order the cable? also since i have the older (red) rods would it be a good idea for me to update them as well? as long as they would fit directly without any mods. i saw some listings on ebay from a european seller is this the guy to buy from?? thanks
  19. as i look under the tp i noticed that the RED cap type ball joint which according to my reading here is the old type, interesting enough i had the top replaced at one point under warranty however they didn't update the hardware on it. .......this was done in las vegas at the only dealership. since my car is a 02 it should have come with the updated hardware but not sure why i see the old ones, unless the dealership had used old stock to replace my top at the time.
  20. Paul: If your top is open halfway, you can bring it up manually and lock it in place with the latch, but you have to disconnect the pushrods to do so. There are four pushrods: two that operate on the convertible canvas top, and two that operate on the clamshell. The ones that operate on the canvas top have white (red if original, old version part) plastic ball cups that are pressed onto a steel ball on one side of the V-lever. The ones that operate on the clamshell look like a black hydraulic cylinder and they are pressed onto a steel ball on the the other side of each V-lever. They can be easily pried off, but ONLY IF THEY ARE NOT UNDER PRESSURE. If they are under pressure, it takes a great deal of force to pry them off. There are also ways to work around getting them off if that proves too difficult. The only drawback, is that once you have the four pushrods disconnected, there is nothing to hold the clamshell down tight. So, it might bounce up a little if you hit a bump. To avoid that, you can reconnect the two black hydraulic pushrods to the clamshell arms, but that will require you to rotate the transmissions so that the V-levers are in the correct position and then press the two pushrod caps back onto the steel balls-- very, very difficult to do. A dealer gets anywhere from $1500 to 2500 to replace the transmissions with the newer version transmissions. They like to replace the entire system, including the cables while they are at it. You can pick up used "B" version on eBay for around $500 a pair. It's unlikely that your motor is bad, that is not a very common cause of failure. Don't go replacing the transmissions (or anything else for that matter) until you diagnose the cause further. Regards, Maurice. thanks Maurice, i will try to get that done tm morning. by the way, if the rods are under pressure how do i get them off just in case when i need to do so. updates on the problem. as i try to close the top i hear a single click from the driver rear, it seems like the motor is trying to engage but nothing is moving, however it still moves backward. does this seem like a transmission problem to you?
  21. 02 boxster S hi all i am having proble closing my top and need some help here. as i try to close the top today i noticed grinding/clicking noise coming from rear driver side. it was closing a bit slower than usual. as it came all the way up the grinding continues so i tried to reverse the back down to listen more( stupid me) it then moves even slower but steadily. as i attempt to bring it back up again....nothing happens. back down it moves but forward to upright position, no more motor grinding or any movement at all. so it is now stuck at half way. i found in the manual the steps to bring the top down however it doesn't show you how to bring it up manually!.........is there a way to do it? secondly, is this something that can by DIY or i should bring it to a porsche guy? how much it is if i need to replace the top motor or transmission? thanks all Paul
  22. i have talked to a friend who's been in car biz for more than 20 yrs and knows a lot about oil and his views on the Amsoils are DEFINITELY not for porsche. however if u like mustangs then go for it......... :P
  23. i have found some lubroMolly( liquiMolly) 5w-40 oil and upon researching this its gotten very good feedbacks on all european cars ( audi, VW, BMW< mercedes, etc) but just not much on the porsche, not sure if people are not able to get them or something. the bottle also says its apporoved by porsche and it is also listed on the porsche approval list or oils. i think i might go with the castro as suggested by IFLYS5 because its cheaper and easily accessible. if not i can always go with lubro. i am also thinking to change out the gear oil now i have 82k miles, is Delvac 75W-90 gear oil ok for a boxster or there is something more suitable? i was actually suggested by my mechanic to use redline gear oil however i am not very sure about this since i haven't checked to see if this is recod by porsche. anyone knows about this? :)
  24. hi all, i am looking to step up my oil from mobil 1 ow-40 to 5w-40. only thing i see on the market is castrol syntec 5w-40. mobil 1 is for diesel engine only. on castrol bottle it says porsche approved, however i'd like to get some opinions before chaging the oil. by the way i have noticed the oil level going down slightly from the sensor( onboard computer) in the am or after the car has been sitting, i think it might have a slight blow by problem and maybe thicker oil may fix that. my car is an 02 boxster s with 82k miles. thanks in advance
  25. mine alarm beeps on and off, it just does whatever it wants. i have learned to just ignore it, other than that its in good working condition.
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