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deanslist.us

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Everything posted by deanslist.us

  1. deanslist.us
    :o we need a suicide smiley in here... :( This is the coolant I used:
  2. deanslist.us
    No oil leaks, just coolant. I read about the jelly thing on another thread and have since inquired a two gallon order of OE Porsche coolant from Sunset Imports. Is there a special fluid I should use to break that down and flush it out? I know regular water works when diluting it on my garage floor, maybe I can apply the same principal in the system once I get the new coolant. Off-hand, does anyone know if the OE Porsche coolant has to be diluted as well with two parts water for every one part coolant, or do I need to order four gallons?
  3. deanslist.us
    MY99 996 Coupe. Recently replaced the water pump, so i also replaced 3 gallons of coolant with Prestone. Since then I have noticed a strange coolant leak coming from the front, high driver-side of the motor, looks like a plug in the block or head near the oil separator. The coolant that escapes forms in my garage only, but is like a jelly until I wash it away with water. I also discovered an electrical connector hanging down the backside nearby, unplugged. After reviewing diagrams, all I can figure out is that it might be a pulse sender since it is the same general area (986.606.112.02). What the heck is a pulse sender?? Wrench thinks the leak is originating from the oil separator, but why would coolant be seeping as a jelly-like substance instead of oil? Should I flush my system and replace it with OE Porsche coolant? Does OE Porsche coolant have a sealant in it that the Prestone thinned out? I lost only about 4 ounces of coolant in the past two months, but I am concerned about it getting worse...especially if I take it to the track.
  4. deanslist.us
    Just make sure it is prepared for a long haul and be a member of the auto club before hitting the road as anything can happen. check your fluid levels, serpentine belt condition, tire wear, etc. I have personally taken my car on several trips amounting over 700 miles in a single day...very comfortable touring car!
  5. deanslist.us
    I had the same issue (my99 996), wrench said check to be sure of a good electrical connection, if it is connected and still off in that situation, then try the relay and fuse, if these are okay, then the fan will have to be removed and tested. Removing the fan requires removal of the front bumper, but a seasoned P-car mechanic can change one out in about an hour. I think if done using the secret tricks of the trade, one can slide it out the bottom while the car is on a lift, and swap it faster. These are two-speed fans that should run on full high when the a/c is on. Also, you can plug a diagnostics computer in it to get the code (just to be sure as it will show up) and they can test them by attempting to turn them on remotely. Pelican has them at $231 but my recent experience with sunset imports (per this site) has proven worthy (with a lower control arm, beating out any other site for parts prices) so they can more than likely beat that price. Good Luck!
  6. deanslist.us
    Thanks Deanslist How tricky was it to remove the alternator? Think it may need to come out to gain access to the starter! It took me about twenty minutes to remove the alternator, following directions I found thru the forum here. You just need to be aware of the directions things move and have the ability to manipulate them effectively, without smashing the crap out of your fingers. Otherwise, you may find yourself wrestling with removing parts. It is pretty simple, remove airbox and serpentine belt, then unbolt the two bolts on the alt...there is a bushing that requires tapping on the right to relieve pressure against a bracket, then it is a matter of rotating the alt clockwise and sliding out, then disconnect the electrical connectors. And definitely yes, don't forget to disconnect the battery...and be aware of the radio code you will have to input after getting it all back together and reconnecting the battery...which can be solved via this forum as well. I have been very surprised so far as to how easy it is to work on my '99 compared to my '84 911 that required tools with WD40 mounts. Seems that everything was a wresting match just because of the age.
  7. deanslist.us
    When replacing my alternator, I saw the starter in the cave-like hole that was left after pulling the alt out. Looks like it is a pain, but doable nonetheless. To me it just looked deep inside, but I think that with plenty of light and determination one could replace one on their own.
  8. deanslist.us
    I picked my 99 C2 up in LA, drove it to El Paso, TX, (800mi.) then... El Paso to Denver (and back) - 1400 mi. El Paso to San Antonio (and back) - 1100 mi. El Paso to Tucson (and back) - 630 mi. El Paso to San Antonio again (and back) - 1100 mi. ..then tracked it at a DE... two months later the water pump popped, then the alternator went..both of which were easy fixes.
  9. deanslist.us
    does it matte if the alternator ground is hooked up to B1 or B2 post?
  10. deanslist.us
    I matched the bosch part number and picked up an alternator for $300. Problem I am having is that on the back of the original, the ground was hooked up to B2. On the new one, B2 is too short but B1 is long enough to hook up the ground to...please help!! Does it matter which one I hook it up to?
  11. deanslist.us
    There are a lot of knowledgeable people in this thread. :eek: Anyway, thanks to the alternator going bad in time for the holidays, shipping is going to take a week...thought I would check back in and see how the debate was going. Which, I have my own opinions about, but all of you are making good points and arguments. Either way, my local wrench tells me that it is possible to kill the alternator if you try to charge a dead battery (that doesn't want to charge) as it will work doubly as hard to reach the require voltage and eventually burn its own diodes out. I know that on my previous 76 and 84 911's it was a no no to disconnect the battery while hte car was running as that would also kill the alternator/generator (whichever it had I don't know).
  12. deanslist.us
    any insight on how to remove the alternator? I found some cool tips and tricks in another thread involving wd-40 and a hammer, but now I am nearing the idea of removing my intake manifold to wrench the thing out. Never found a diy...not yet anyway. Duh, I found one, if anyone is interested another DIY listed here includes removing the alternator to get to your secondary air injection...I knew I saw it somewhere.
  13. deanslist.us
    Thanks for the help guys, I am pulling the alternator today so I can compare it with the new one when it gets in. :renntech: I am finally a contributing member!! :thumbup:
  14. deanslist.us
    I am having the exact same problem, and am hovering responses surrounding alternator replacement, since it is one of the strangely more expensive parts...must have something to do with copper prices. Hoping to hear more about options other than alternator replacement. My problem was a little more interesting as the car didn't die (while in traffic), instead I noticed because the radio cut out, then I noticed the abs and airbag lights were on and then the a/c fan gauge was cycling in manuell. Car was still running fine, I looked at the volts and it read 10-11. INterior dash lights dimmed, and the litronics turned off one at a time. I proceeded to hastily lane changed to the right, in fear that the electric fans would no longer work and the car may overheat, but no problems. I managed to drive another mile to the next exit and stopped at a fueling station, called my wrench and he said I should probably turn it off and come get a new battery. I did so, and the car's peripherals returned to normal, everything worked (except radio, without code) but the volts still read just below 12. I continued to drive it another 7 miles home. Car never did die. Not sure what the issues are, even after searching the entire forum. I am hoping to get the alternator tested at the local parts store this week.
  15. deanslist.us
    Mechanic friend of mine checked the whole thing out and found nothing out of place or loose...but did have to tighten some sway bar linkages up... :unsure:
  16. deanslist.us
    I experienced the same but assumed the fluid just needed to warm up since it went away within 10 minutes consistently.
  17. deanslist.us
    I performed a search on the forum after posting, and found some points to look for: common problems for noise are loose sway bars. Also, Loren previously stated that there are TSB's on worn strut mounts... :renntech: no play in the steering tho...not sure what causes that, but I hear ball joints and bearings can cause noise as well...
  18. deanslist.us
    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! I get the same noise form the front of my car, right side only tho, the left side sounds like a box of rocks being shaken..
  19. deanslist.us
    Not sure what is causing it, but the right front side clunks a little when coming down from bumps, and the left sounds like a shaky box of rocks when going over small bumps...mechanic says it could be: ball joint, upper strut mount, bearing, or loose bolts. Anyone else have this issue? Also, strut brace bar was removed due to a stripped strut stud found, didn't notice a big difference in handling..what is the point of these things for street cars?
  20. deanslist.us
    Oh no, I think the previous owner of my car did the same thing!! I have been having radio problems recently!!
  21. deanslist.us
    I tried the handcrank thing and it wouldn't budge, I just want it closed now..I will have to wait until the head mechanic at my shop gets back from France to diagnose it. His assistant is putting in my new radiator colling fan tonight. He had hooked it up to the comp and basically told me that either it isn't plugged in or it is bad...so I checked it and found it plugged in and ordered a new fan...maybe now is a good time to check the fuse I suppose. why am I always doing things backwards? Just checked the fuses, all are fine...so I don't feel so bad about spontaneously ordering a fan. Thanks by the way for the quick and insightful reply!
  22. deanslist.us
    If I could figure the settings for my 996 c2's pss9 system, i would share them, but I would be curious to hear some good input about suspension setups with the pss9's as well.
  23. deanslist.us
    I read the forum and found everything there is to find about sunroof problems. And realize that this forum is full of cool little secrets, tip and tricks from the great Loren. Turns out I should have searched for a remedy to the ghostly close re-open halfway thing a long time ago, I thought it was geared wrong or something. Anyway, mine did it every time until today I took it to lunch and attempted to set it in the up position in which it started to go but then stopped halfway so i attempted to close it and it didn't respond. I should have stopped here but went on to attempt to open it again and it began to make some awful noises and to which it is now stuck in the "up" position. Did I break something? I attempted to "retrain it" thinking that it thought it was in the closed position, but it doesn't respond. When I press the button, I can here something inside click.....then click again. no motion...this is the last of a series of things that recently happened to the car (Radiator cooling fan quit, Check engine light came on, now this), and I am getting ready to take it on a trip to Denver from El Paso! Please help! · 1990 · C2 Coupe · 6 speed · Black on Black · US
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