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Chuck Jones

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About Chuck Jones

  • Birthday 02/05/1941

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Fishing, camping, photography, boating, raise and show Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs.

Profile Fields

  • From
    Elk Grove, CA
  • Porsche Club
    POC (Porsche Owners Club)
  • Present cars
    2002 996TT X50; a few nice mods
    1999 911/996 C2 (Caught fire/totalled)
    1987 930 Factory Slantnose Cab
    2001 Dodge dually diesel 1 ton

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  1. I sold my 996 TT and have my 930S slantnose up for sale. Due to medical issues, I've had to buy a Nissan Murano which has an auto transmission and is easier to get in and out of.

  2. That last post...the disclaimer is put in there becasue guys switch out their standard CDR 220 for an upgraded spiffy stereo system, then expect that iWire setup to work. It's made for the STOCK radio...they can't possibly make one to accommodate all the different radio plug ports in the back of the numerous models that are on the market. This only works in teh earlier CDR 220 models..not the later MOST models as has already been stated. In the iWire, it goes into the plug port that your 6 CD holder would normally go into...so you can't have both. Personally, I prefer the iPod...just transfer your CDs to the iPod and it will hold almost a 1000...more songs than I would ever listen to.
  3. There's no difference in the clutch. It's the same one in the 420 HP or X50 models. When you go to bigger HP, you might as well do the clutch...I went with a UMW flash, Europipe exhaust, Wastegate upgraded spring kit in my X50 and the clutch lasted about a month....and that was without hard launches or fast off-the-line starts....the clutch just won't hold that extra HP. You'll feel it start slipping in gears 4, 5, or 6. A little at first, then it gets progressively worse regardless of how you baby it.
  4. Bill: Is that Smart Top another in the long list of your "standard features" in your totally unmodded car? Best regards, Chuck
  5. I see your membership increasing as Internet Brands seems to be alienating some folks..nice new look and feel to your new format. Obviously a lot of thought, time, and effort went into it.

  6. OK Loren....this is pretty...but I can't find your contact point. When I tried to find the moderating team and your contact point, I searched for moderator and administrator and only found one moderator. Where's the list of your team moderators and administrator? Obviously a cyber-dinosaur posting this.... :) Regards, Chuck
  7. No...the iWire plug fits exactly into the existing plug port in the back left side of the radio...but it only allows you to access the iPod when you switch to the AUX channel...you do your navigation on the iPod itself...but I mostly use a shuffle or go to the artist I want to hear. I don't consider this to be a big inconvenience considering the fact that the conversion costs you about $50. For me it's a pretty dogone good deal for the money.
  8. My neighbor and I installed the iWire in about 30 minutes...the directions that came with it are simple and easy to follow. The side console panels just unclip and access was easy with the radio removal tools they provide. I opted to drill a small hole in the back of that small receptacle compartment under the radio...for those of you who haven't changed the configuration of your stereo setups...and the iPod plug can be tucked away under there by simple pushing the wire back into the hole in back. I set the stereo to "AUX" and like stated above, you control the navigation thru the iPod from the iPod itself. Great and simple setup for pre-MOST cars.
  9. HUH??? Oil collection tanks hadn't been drained??? That's a first for me. He must have pulled that one out of the posterior part of his anatomy. Most folks who do their oil changes never mess with what little oil there might be in there. I know I don't, and neither does my indy. I think that falls under the heading of extraneous and irrelevant verbiage. Next time you go in there, ask him to explain that statement. The response will probably commence with ....Well errr, ahhhh, ummm...what I meant was ahhh.....you know...
  10. I bought a clutch setup from UMW and had it installed lcally...installation time was 9 hours @ $100 per hr plus some pentosin. 18 hours must include a coupe union breaks, going home for dinner, a siesta in the afternoon, and time out to watch the news. Call around and ask some of the independents for their flat rate manual charges for a clutch replacement. I wouldn't go OE...as long as you're going to go in there, upgrade your clutch. Get the Sachs GT2 upgrade...you wont' have to mess with it again.
  11. How about a few taps from a rubber mallet??? Neurosurgery with a hammer.
  12. I had a windshield replaced not too long ago, and I would recommend you call a high end windshield or auto glass shop and ask them. Mine has the auto dimmer in it along with the rain sensor so there has to be wires going to it and they'd know where they are and what it takes to do what you're doing.
  13. I see you had about a half dozen or more suggestions for a battery over on Rennlist too! Considering this as a democratic society, I'd say the majority vote was for a battery.
  14. Sounds like the battery is going bad...it will take a charge but won't hold it. It shows 14 volts while the alternator is putting juice in it but wont' hold the charge. Have it load tested.....but I'd start with a new battery first.
  15. Yes, I have Kevin's clutch....the only different thing I did was rather than pay for a new dual mass flywheel, I had a rebuilt one that had been resurfaced....the rest was the new SACHS GT (2 or 3?? don't remember) upgraded clutch. Kevin strongly suggested I go with the lightweight flywheel, but I opted to stay with the dual mass. I've heard too many grouses about the rattle of the LWFW....and quicker spoolup wasn't something I was particularly hot on....I wasn't looking to shave .05 off my 0-60 times. My only complaint is a bit of chatter in reverse which requires more gas to overcome it..something that didn't occur with the OEM clutch.
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