Keggers

Great. Thanks RFM!

WOW! I could have worded that EXACT SAME QUESTION.... WORD FOR WORD!!! Mine is IDENTICAL and I was wondering the EXACT SAME thing!!! Mine had an alignment from an indie at 32k miles, & charged the PO $343!!!!!. In fact, on mine, you can see that the passenger side bolts USED to be more towards the center, from the marks in the paint. Car tracks fine and no vibration, except when tires are cold. Anyone with a comment? Yeah I can actually see marks on mine on the passenger side where it used to be closer to the wing as well. Thats why I noticed it in the first place. Strange co-incidence!

Hi I noticed that the 3 bolts on the top of my two front struts are in quite different positions in the adjustment slots when comparing left hand strut to right hand strut. The right hand trut is close to the extreme outside end of the slot (i.e. the wing end), while the left is closer the extreme inside end of the slot (i.e. nearer to the middle of the car). I know the car had a full alignment not long before I bought it, but am wondering if it is now way out of line. Are these different positions a sign that my alignment is definitely going to be out of whack, or could it have been aligned correctly such that the left and right are in different positions in the slots? i.e. should both struts be similar positions in the slots relative to the side of the car? I hope this makes sense? Greg

Hi James Glad to hear you seem to have found a problem to your issues. Just out of interest, how much is the new Autofarm engine and who are you getting to do the install? I'm Dublin based and my 996 has just come out of warranty so have been wondering whether I will continue getting it serviced at Belgard or move to an independent (and would be curoious to know how much an autofarm engine is in case things go tragically wrong for me down the track!). I used to use Barry Whelan for my 944 but have used Belgards for the 996 so far as it has been in warranty. Hope it works out well for you anyway. Cheers Greg

Thanks Richard!

Cheers Rick. Any idea if this is easy/cheap to replace?

Hi I have some oil weeping down the right hand side of my engine, around where the spark plugs are and below. I can see it if I look between the back of the rear wheel and the wheel arch. You can see it in the first picture below. Looking up from under it appears to be coming from a canister about the size of a small apple that sticks up from above the spark plugs. The cannister has two wires coming out of the top. You can see this in the 2nd and third pictures below, taken from below (2nd) and from above through the engine bay (3rd). Can anyone tell me what this part is? Cheers Greg

Thanks for the quick response there. Thats a worry off my mind!! Now to go hunting for that **** rattle again!

Hi I got over zealous trying to get rid of a rattling in my front suspension and tried tightening the top nut on the top of the strut (in the centre of the strut mount). Rather than the nut tightening up, the whole piston just ended up moving around with the nut (i.e. while the nut moved, so did the bolt/piston). Have I damaged the strut, or is it normal that this would move around with the nut? Also, I noticed there is a line marked across the centre of the bolt (the bolt that has an allen key hole in the middle) that the nut screws onto. Is this meant to point in any particular direction? Its a 1998 996 C2 Coupe. Cheers Greg

Yeah thats the right bolt (there is one for each of the four brackets). Mine were on very tight but was able to unscrew them with an allen key if got some extra leverage with a metal tube over the allen key to add some extra length. You'll probably need new brackets (part number in my post above). You can see pics of them removed from my car here... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=16221&hl= Note that when you are putting the new brackets in you need some sealant of some sort, as the old ones are sealed in. Hope this helps. Greg

Hi Just got myself a durametric and been doing a bit of playing with the actual values. Have been looking at the O2 sensor values and am a bit puzzled. From what I understand there are 4 o2 sensors, and this seems to match the options on the Durametric. I have recorded values for "Oxygen Sensors Cylinders 1-3", "Oxygen Sensors Cylinders 4-6", "O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. c." and "O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. c. bank 2". The first two started recording values slightly either side of 1.0 (0.9 to 1.14) and averaged 1.0. The values for the two ahead of the cat converter both averaged around 0.4 and varied between 0 and 0.9. I had expected these to also be averaging about 1.0 and not moving too far from 1.0. Have I misunderstood whats going on here? Note that when I first plugged in the durametric I had code P0134 (Porsche fault code 10 - O2 sensor ahead of cat conv bank 1), but I have cleared this and so far it hasn't come back. Grateful for any advice. Cheers Greg

I had the same problem and had the same response from the dealer (that the plates weren't removable, but they could try to drill out the screws and retap them at a cost of €1000!). Got new plates and installed them myself for about €100 all up! In case anyone is looking to do the same, the part number for the plates is 996 504 911 00. The number isn't actually stamped onto them and doesn't seem to be shown in PET, so its a little hard to get hold of. I'm actually using the rack for the first time today with my surfboard sitting on top of the car outside my office here waiting to head off for the weekend!

Thanks guys. Nothing to worry about then!

These guys do a pretty much exact match leather dye for savannah (and supposedly for any other porsche leather colour as well). I don't know how well the leather dye would go onto the fibre glass, but it worked brilliantly touching up my leather. You literally can't tell the difference between the original colour and the touched up section. http://www.liquidleather.com/

Can I ask why you feel the need to do that manually? It seems like you may be unnecessarily putting strain on the running gear. I'm not trying to be an ***...literally just asking why! I do it sometimes if I want to take off in 1st rather than 2nd. If the traffic lights look like they are about to change then can change down to 1st and roll along slowly as you approach waiting for it to turn green. I'm not talking about engine braking from high revs or anything like that, just changing down when I am already going quite slowly to get ready for taking off quickly again.

Hi I've got a 1998 996 tiptronic. Sometimes (often) if I change gear down from 2nd to 1st when I'm slowing down to stop (but not quite stopped yet - still moving but moving slowly) with my foot off the accelerator I get a distinct clunk as it goes into 1st gear. It doesn't do it when it changes down in auto. It also doesn't usually do it if I am accelerating a little as I change down (rather than foot off the accelerator). It will also often stop doing it once I've made the change from 2nd to 1st a few times (I assume something is warming up?). Anyway, my question is whether this is something that is normal or something to be concerned with? Have chatted with my dealer on it before and been brushed off, but it just doesn't seem like it should be something that is normal. Cheers Greg

Yeah Minutes Per Gallon sure is another interesting way of looking at it! Best not to think about the fuel being sucked up while I'm sitting there getting frustrated with the traffic! Sounds like everyone is right and this is par for the course on such a mpg unfriendly commute. Had been getting around 20mpg in my last car (1989 3L 944S2) on the same route so had been surprised how badly the 996 compared, but then again its certainly worth it when I get the chance to use the car properly on the weekends!

I use my '98 Carrera as my daily driver into work and back. While I get what I would consider reasonable mpg on the open road (about 28mpg over an average motorway trip (this is 23.3mpg in US gallons)), and around 18-20mpg in free-flowing traffic around town (about 15-16.5mpg in US gallons), on my commute into work through stop-start traffic, I'm getting about 12mpg (about 10mpg in US gallons). This is driving as smoothly as I can, so I don't think its me being overly aggressive. This seems ridiculously low to me, but maybe this isn't that abnormal for these cars in these sort of traffic conditions? Its a 6 mile trip each way with about the first 3 miles reasonably free flowing then the second half in true bumper to bumper traffic (I averaged 13mph over the course of this week). The whole trip in takes me about 35-40 minutes. It really seems to be the sitting still in traffic that is killing it, as I can watch the OBC mpg display literally tick down 0.1mpg every few seconds while I'm sitting there. Idles a bit below 800rpm and is reasonably steady. I've done a few manual checks on the mpg being shown on the OBC by filling and then refilling and calculating manually and it seems pretty spot on, so I think the numbers are pretty accurate. So I was curious as to whether people think this is acceptable, or could I have a problem with the car? Are there any logical places to look for vacuum leaks etc that might be causing a problem at idle? Anything else worth checking? Any guidance appreciated. Cheers Greg EDITED TO SAY THAT IT IS A TIPTRONIC - FORGOT TO MENTION THIS.

Thanks for the tip. Had actually done something very similar to what you have suggested a few days after I broke it and it worked very well. Exhaust is now on the car and sounding great! Had the first few days with the mufflers on without the tail pipes/tips on while I waited for my local dealer to get some new clamps in. The exhaust was a LOT louder while the tail pipes were off and I was seriously questioning whether the whole PSE thing had been a good idea. I put the tail pipes/tips on yesterday and it has made a great difference to it and it is now pretty much what I was hoping for. Very pleased with myself!

Ahhhhh. Just WD40'd it and tried to move it the lever with a spanner and had success with it moving no problem, only to then discover a minute later that the lever that comes out of that is driven by the vacuum has snapped off the valve arm (I assume its some sort of very small ball joint?). I'm sure there is no easy way to fix this either! Attached a picture which is bad quality but at least show what I have done. I guess it shouldn't matter to me for now as I don't intend to try to wire up a switch or anything for the moment anyway so would have been leaving the valve open anyway, but am very peeved with myself!

Hi there I just bought myself some a set of used PSE mufflers for my 98 996. Haven't installed it yet (going to put it on without vacuum/electronics at first and see how I go) but have noticed that the valves seem to be in different positions on the two mufflers, with one looking open and the other closed. Doesn't seem possible to move them manually. So I have a couple of questions. Are the valves meant to be held open with a spring? i.e. should both be sitting in an open postion at the moment before I have installed them, or is it normal that the valves will be sitting in the position that they were when last used and will the closed one should be blown back into the open position by the exhaust flow as soon as I install it and start the car? Am worried that the closed one may be seized closed. Is there meant to be a spring or something to move it back open on its own? Should the lever arms move freely enough that I can manually move the valve closed again, or is it normal that these are tight enough that they can only be moved via the vacuum? Without getting too violent with them, they don't seem to want to move! Also, if I decide to install the vacuum/electronics at some point down the track, are the parts required available in a kit from Porsche? Am confident from looking through the guides etc. that I could easily do it myself, but not sure where best to get the bits and pieces. Finally, the mufflers have the Eisenmann badge but I can't easily see a manufacture date or part number (there is one on the bracket but not on the exhaust that I can see). Is this normal? Based on the pictures I have seen on the various posts I am pretty sure it is a 3.6L version (i.e. no small pipe - only a large bypass pipe with the valve inside) but was curious as to why there is no part number. Maybe I just haven't looked hard enough though! Cheers Greg

Just received these. The part number is 996 504 911 00. Turned out cheaper than I had expected at €110 for 4 new plates including delivery.

Have managed to track down 4 new base plates from www.porsch-apart.co.uk. I'll post the part number up once they arrive in case anyone else decides to go down the same route to fix this problem. Cheers Greg

This picture might help to go along with the part number Loren posted. Thanks Loren and slbates. Looks like its not the one I'm after unfortunately though. This seems to be just the plastic frame that holds the actual flap, while I need the solid metal base plate with the bolt that goes through the roof. Have tried contacting a porsche breaker to see if I can get 4 of these from them. Might be my best bet. Cheers Greg

Hi I've been having trouble getting the screws out of the roof rack anchor plates under the flaps in the roof. Here's an older post, which showed I'm not alone on this! http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=5942&st=0 Anyway, have tried a few options, including screw extractors etc, but no luck. I now have partially drilled out screw holes which are of no use to me! I've now managed to remove the plate, unscrewing the bolt from underneath (above the headliner) with a plan that I would get the part number off it and buy 4 replacements and screw them back on. I've attached a picture showing exactly what part I'm talking about. Before I removed it... Anchor plate removed... But there's no part number printed on there, and I can't find a part number anywhere on the net, parts diagrams, etc. My dealer was no help on this at all. Does anyone have any idea whether these are replaceable, and if so what is the part number? Grateful for any help. Cheers Greg