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Would someone help me understand the values for how toe is measured. I understand that toe out has the front of the tire pointing outward and toe-in pointing to the center line of car. I see a lot of discussing about having like 1/32 or 1/16 toe to provide more crisp turnin? and total toe. I'm not sure how that relates to the figures below from the Porsche Repair Maual where they show +5' +- 5'. Can someone tell me what the 1/32 or 1/16 might relate to on a machine which measures angles? From the Porsche Specs Porsche Repair Manual Wheel alignment Values Turbo USA TurboRoW Turbo X73 GT2 Front axle Toe unpressed (total) + 5' ± 5' + 5' ± 5' + 5' ± 5' + 8' ± 2' Toe difference angle at 20° lock − 1° 20' ± 30' − 1° 50' ± 30' − 1° 50' ± 30' − 1° 50' ±30’ Camber (with wheels in straight−ahead 0° ± 15' − 30' ± 15' − 45' ± 15' − 1° ± 5' position) max. difference, left to right 20' 20' 20' 10' Caster 8° ± 30' 8° ± 30' 8° ± 30' 8° ± 30' max. difference, left to right 40' 40' 40' 40' Rear axle Toe per wheel + 10' ± 5' + 10' ± 5' + 10' ± 5' + 13' ± 2' max. difference, left to right 10' 10' 10' 5' Camber − 1° 25' ± 15' − 1° 25' ± 15' − 1° 40' ± 15' − 1° 50' ± Another bit of confusion for me is that the front TOE In values for US Turbo are +5' while the GT2 values are +8'. I would have thought that the larger value of positive toe in would have been less agressive? I understood the closer to neutral or negative (Toe Out) the more agressive the turnin and darty nature. Getting an alignment next week so thanks for the insights. Keith
My 01TT with 30k miles is having problems staring. It's like the battery is dead, dash lights come on but just clicks and won't start. I put a charger on it for couple of minutes and it starts OK. Runs fine after. The voltage gauge shows 13 volts. I've run it for a while and next day same thing. I took it by and Advance Auto and they tested with their meter. Says battery is fine, it's about 1 year old, alternator is showing charging OK. We shut everything off and they said it showed a draw of .9amps. This was with everything off including pulling the light in the front trunk. Does this sound like a normal draw or is this enough to run the battery down so quick? Looking for ideas before I have to go to the dealer! Thanks. Keith
I came across a great deal for Castrol Syntec 5W-40 oil for $4.99 at Advance Auto. I know I had a list of the oils approved by Porsche at one time but can't seem to locate it from any previous threads. Can someone provide a link to the list? Thanks. Keith
smithk3933 replied to Tom4S's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I had the same question? I thought you had to take some drugs or something before starting the work!
Just curious what do you sense when the master cylinder fails or has a problem.
I would certainly not call the overall clutch pedal action smooth. The car still has a bit of CPO remaining so I might take it by the dealer and see if they will do a test drive. I would love to be able to drive a similar model to determine what a normal feel is. Keith
I've recently acquired an 02 C4s with 38k miles and have a question regarding a vibration. I feel the vibration in a couple of ways. If the clutch is fully depressed, disengaged, and rev the engine to 3-5k, I feel the vibration through the depressed clutch pedal. Also if while driving along, and just partially depress the clutch, not to the point of disengaging, I also feel a vibration. It definitely doesn't feel as smooth as my previous 95 993. Any ideas? I was going to bleed the clutch this weekend, but wouldn't think this would help since it has the vibration with clutch disengaged. Keith
Well I decided to give the Kumho SPT's a try. They should arrive Monday. I'll try an d let you know my impressions after I get a few miles on them. At less than $600 shipped, I had to give them a try. Keith
Just to be sure I understand the process, after the first bleed, the bleed valve is closed and then the clutch pedal is exercised for 60 seconds. Correct? Assume that you would not want to pump the pedal with the valve open. Thanks. This is on the top of my list of maintenance items for my new to me 02 C4S. Keith
Bridestone RE960AS look good but they don't come in my size for the rears, 295/30/18.
The clutch engagement point is maybe 1/3 of the travel, fairly early. It does seem more pronounced when driving easy and less when accelerating hard. I'll have to pay closer attention as to whether it's in every gear or just 1-2 shifts. Thanks. Keith
I've searched but didn't find any real comments on using the Kumho SPT or Falken 452's. My new to me 02 C4S currently as the P-zero's which are down to the wear bars and they HOWL like crazy. I'm probably going to do 1-2 DE's in the car (have a dedicated track car) but mainly spirited street driving. I've had good results in the past with the SPT's on a 95 M3 but no experience with the FALKEN 452's. I realize that with either I'll give up some absolute dry handling versus a Michelin PS/Bridgestone 050. Would love to hear from anyone who has switched from the top-tier tire to one of these options. Thanks.
I just picked up my new to me 02 C4S with 38k miles. My last Porsche was a 95 993. I've got a question about the overall feel of the shifting and clutch. Not exactly sure how to describe the feeling but here goes. First it seems very difficult to shift between gears smoothly. Seems like the engagement of the next gear seems to bump and not engage smoothly unless I'm very slow and careful with the clutch release. Also it seems that the clutch/gears don't disengage smoothly when I depress the clutch. Almost like it doesn't come out of gear. It's not hard to get out of gear or anything, just not smooth with a slight catch. I have to be very careful in depressing clutch with letting off the accelerator. The other thing I've noticed is that if I press slightly on the clutch pedal (not to the point of disengaging) I feel a vibration transmitted through the pedal. I've driven manual cars for the last 20 years but this one doesn't feel as smooth as my last 993. Any ideas? Keith