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elrover

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Posts posted by elrover

  1. I have the opportunity to buy some really beautiful 3 piece 5 spoke 20 inch wheels (and Pirelli tires) from a friend of mine. They came off his 996 Turbo. His car was a lease and he took them off when he returned it. He now has a Ferrari so has no use for them. They looked amazing on his car.

    He wants to sell them and I could get them for very cheap. He spent over $5k for the wheel tire combo....

    Any opinions on loss of ride quality and such with the 20's? Does anyone have 20's on their car?

    They look similar to this OZ wheel with a polished lip and the Porsche crest wheel caps.

    Any input or opinions? I don't track my car.....

    Thanks !

    It's my third 997 with 20" wheels. I really don't feel that I lost ride quality. It looks great and handle very well.

    I have to say that I had Nitto's on the first car and they were really loud. Now I have Pirelli's and they are a lot better.

    Hope it helps.

    post-19804-1259181074_thumb.jpg

  2. Very nice!!!!

    May I ask where you get the rear spoiler? Are those the 996 GT2?

    You might want to check this out, http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/porsche-9...tyle-seats.html

    Here is the link for the wing. http://misha911.com/gallery/997/997/997_GT...xGTM_on_red.htm.

    I'm not sure I should thank you for the seat link..... I tought I didn't neeeeed anything else! As anybody purchased those seats?

  3. Very nice car, Elrover! But, what is it? A 997 or a 997S. And are you trying to make it look like a GT3?

    It's a 2006 997.

    Tubi exhaust, EVO cold air intake, B&M short shifter, H&R lowering springs, OZ 20" wheels 11" rear and 8.5" front. Nitto tires 305/25-20 rear and 235/30-20 front, OEM 5mm wheel spacers, OEM aero front nose with gt3 upper grill, third radiator, GT3 lower front spoiler lip, GT3 brake duct spoilers, powder coated calipers and rotors (hub), Alcantra covered steering wheel, shifter knob and boot and emergency brake handle(Alan Gun leather), Misha911 version of rear GT2 wing.

    No I was not trying to make a GT3 replica.

    Thanks

  4. I want to change the seats so that I can pass the broomstick test....

    Whats that?

    The "broomstick" test means that the top of the drivers helmet must be below the line from the top of the roll bar to the top of the windshield.

    I hope this helps,

    Gustavo

    Got ya.

    I will definitely fail that at 6" 1' and with the standard seats. I dont sit too well with them low down. I find I get less back pain having them up slighlty as I can get the back to angle a bit further back.

    I bought a pair of Sparco Milano seats on an impulse then realised I couldn't get any runners for them to fix them to my car - doh!

    I installed a pair of Corbeau seat in my boxster and I'm very happy with the fit and confort. Here is the link http://www.corbeau.com/products/trs/trs.shtml#

    The regular width fits perfectly, I don't think that the wide would work. They sell the sliding base for the boxster so no drilling required. they are lower then the oem electric seat. I'm 6' tall, if you want I could measure the space between my head and the roll bar. Let me know if you want pictures.

  5. I think that the DME adjust with the MAF as its condition deteriates and runs fine until u disconnect the battery and the DME has to relearn the charactoristics of the MAF and other sensors and since the MAF is too dirty, the DME has a hell of a time trying to relearn with it and ends up losing the high end torque. thats my theory, probably wrong but meh.

    i don't agree with your theory. i think your MAF is going bad and that's why you're having issues. there is a simple test you can do to see if your MAF is bad. disconnect the MAF wiring harness from the MAF (but leave the MAF in place). disconnect the negative battery cable for (at least) a minute, the re-connect it. this will reset the DME. (if you disconnect the battery for less than a minute, the DME will remember the MAF settings and the car will run the same). start and drive the car (with the MAF wiring harness disconnected). this will not hurt your car in any way. if your car runs better (high-end torque returns, etc.) then your MAF is bad. to double-check this, re-connect the MAF wiring harness, disconnect (for at least a minute) and re-connect the battery again, and then start the car. see if the high-end torque disappears again. if it does, then you can be sure that you need a new MAF. you may have already tried this, i can't remember.

    I have to disconnect the batt soon to pull apart a door panel, and now you guys got me worried!!!!!!!!

    Even if the MAF Sensor needs cleaning and that make the correction, what is causing the problem in the first place (what's disconnecting a battery have to do with that?? And how do any of us really know if our Boxsters are performing correctly in the first place? I had my '01 for only a month and have nothing to compare it to.

    for itzbob46, you don't need to worry about disconnecting your battery at all. the reason that CJ Boxster is having problems is probably because his MAF is bad (or going bad), not because he disconnected the battery. MAFs do get 'dirty' and sometimes the problem can be fixed (for a short while) by cleaning them. but eventually all MAFs get to the point where cleaning them has no effect and you just have to spring for a new one. if you think that your car is running normally, then it probably is. after you get to know the car for a while, you'll be able to notice a performance loss pretty quickly. no worries. ;)

    I want to say that there are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum and I’m very happy to be a member. I just disconnected the MAF and my car came back to life… I will be replacing the MAF tomorrow. Thanks to CJ BOXSTER and CHRIS in NH for the great help.

    elrover

  6. Great! dont you just love your boxster all over again?

    Maybe I don't remember how it drove before but I still feel everytime I get to 4000 rpm with full throttle it hesitates. If I do it again without full throttle it seems to be better. I reprogrammed the E-GAS and it still does it. I wonder if the mass air flow would be the problem even if the check engine light is not on. The dealer told me that the mass air flow was within specs when he checked it last week. Could it be as stupid as a fuel filter. I bought the car at 40000 miles and I don't know if it was replaced before. I have 50000 miles now.

  7. UPDATE: no change after reconnecting battery after 1 hr. Im going to try using MAF cleaner on the MAF since it might be a coinsedence but it feel awfully similar to the time the MAF needed to be cleaned and the power instantly came back after the cleaning.

    I have the same problem since I disconnected the battery on my 2001. I went to the dealer and they told me there was a lot of code(I guess it's because I started the car without the cluster). They downloaded the factory settings but it's the same, no power, really noticable at 4000 rpm.

  8. should be right behind the 3rd brake light, when the clam shell raises, a little plastic arm will stick out and when the clamshell closes, it presses the plastic arm (switch) back down.

    Well by I found the problem by accident... I was reinstalling the left dash speaker and noticed that the gray plug that connect to the back of the cluster got disconnected. Now the top light comes on as it should.

    Again thanks to you guys for helping me. Have a great day.

  9. The airbag light will need to be turned off with Durametric software or a PST2 once its triggered.

    As for the convertible top light not turning on when the top is in operation.... im lost on that one. might have something to do with the switch that the clam shall presses when its shut, try opening the top half way and tapping on it and moving the switch up and down... theres also a connector that does into it, make sure that connected... im talking the switch under the clam shell

    Where would that switch be, I look under the cover and can't find it.

  10. 1. if your boxster is a 97, the passenger side does not come with auto-up only auto down.

    2. if you removed the center console between the seats, you probably either forgot to plug the storage compartment lock assembly wire back onto the lock assembly underneath the center console between the seats.

    3. If your airbag light was off prior to installing your seats, you probably disconnected the recepticle wires without disconnecting the battery and waiting 15 minutes. You'll have to have the factory buckles attached to the wiring for the airbag light to go away. If your using a 5 point harness, you will always hear the seatbelt warning chime unless you search the forum for the hack that disables the chime.... involves cutting 2 of the 4 wires on the recepticle.

    Also, you'll need someone with durametic software or a PST2 to turn off the airbag light.

    Reseting the window worked. If the ignition was turned on with the seat belt harness disconnected, that would make the light come on but after the harness is reconnected should the light turn off or I have to get it reset with the computer. For my horn problem I realized that the convertible top light in the cluster does not light up when the top is in movement, the top works ok. Could it be related and what do you think I forgot to reconnect... I checked the connector at the console latch and it's connected.

    And last problem is the radio code, It's a 220 and the serial # Y1060598 out of a 2001 986.

    Thanks again for you help.

  11. I took my interior apart so I could paint all the plastic trim and now I have a few problems.

    1- The passenger side window does not go down with one push of the switch.

    2- Everytime I lock the car the horn honks like I have, all the doors center console are shut and the trunk and hood.

    3- I replace the OEM seats with Corbeau and I need to bypass the air bag because I have the light on all the time.

    Help would be appreciated.

    Thanks

  12. I have a 2001 Boxster 5 speed. I disconnected the battery for about 2 hours, when I reconnected the terminal and started the car it was like it's missing fuel. Back fire in the intake, feels like it's not running on all cylinders. Is it because the ecm need's to relearn and It's going to fix itself or what ?

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