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kimichi
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Everything posted by kimichi
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Got under the shark and noticed that my trans pan was leaking ATF. Hand tightened and add more fluid. Now it engages nice and smooth.
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Got a 88 S4 auto trans and when I go from park to select any gear it tends to engage a little late and jerks. Once into gear it runs and drives smooth, no problems. Could in be that the linkage/cable needs some adjustments? Any ideas what could be the issue?
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Yeah, I'm going more for looks and I'll be keeping my stock 18's too. So, will I need to buy spacers for any clearance issues? I've been reading 7mm for the front and 15mm for the rear with extended bolts or can I just plug and play? If I need those spacers will it be ok with the tires sizes? I don't have the 997 TT wheels yet so I can't try them on.
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Loren thanks for the info. I did some #'s and it seems the 19" tire size diameter is at the 2% of original 18" front and 5% of the rear. Please correct me if I'm wrong. F18-225/40/18=25.09" R18-295/30/18=24.97" F19-235/35/19=25.48" R19-305/30/19=26.2" F18-25.09+2%(0.5018)=25.59" R18-24.97+5%(1.2485)=26.21" I just bought the 997 TT wheels and those were tires it came with, it has 90% tread left.
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Will I have problems using 997TT stock wheels & tires - Mich Pilot Sport PS2 - Front 235/35-19,- Rear 305/30-19 on my 03 996 TT? I've been reading about diff/viscous coupling problems using these sizes and some it's not a problem, plug and play. Some says no need for spacers and some do. So, what is the verdict? I don't track the car (no race track available), hardly ever get to use 6 gear (max speed limit 60), will never take long drives (around the island under 2 hours), and I drive it as a weekend car.
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Ok, I went to start it up after I drove it a week ago. Engine turns but won't start. I park on a slight slope. First, I switched the DME relay with my spare, no luck. Fuel pump fuse is good. Thought I needed more gas since I was low and on a slope. Filled up to 3/4, nothing still. So, then I was thinking fuel pump because the week I drove it, it felt a little slow responding when I gave it gas also it idled a little werid but closer to normal. Replaced fuel pump, nothing still. So, I tried my spare DME relay again, nothing. Then I got my brothers new DME relay, nothing. So, went out to get a new battery because the old one wouldn't hold its charge. Still nothing. Borrowed a good coil to see if it was that, a no go. Removed both sensors at flywheel, pretty dirty, cleaned and installed. No luck. Any ideas? I guess the next step would be to look at the DME harness contacts and DME unit. Was going to check the DME but got an offer for the car and sold it. It's going back to europe...on the hunt for another.
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Just an update: I'm glad I passed up the silver 05 turbo S because in fact it was just a normal turbo with the option PCCB. Not a real turbo S that has the X50 and PCCB.
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Exactly the reasons why I went with the X50. I do understand the rare part with the 05. All that aside, this X50 is sweet!!! Thanks for the production #'s of the turbos, I guess the world will never know.
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All in all, it's pretty much a turbo S then. I rather have the X50 engine instead of the PCCB not the other way around. I know it's not a real 05 since that was the only year of production for US. I guess the reasons I ask is that I passed up a silver 05 turbo S with 33k miles for $10,000 more then a black 03 turbo X50 with 39k miles. Here on the islands to see a real turbo s is hard to come by. This was the first I seen for sale here and the X50. These cars never pop up for sale unless going over seas. Did I make the wrong choice? My thinking was X50 same engine as turbo S just no pccb and $10k less.
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I was wondering if anyone knows how many X50's were made for the US. Are they pretty rare? I was reading somewhere that the 02-04 X50 was made for the US and in europe it's called the turbo S. Then in 05 they were sold as the turbo S in the US, everything the same as the X50 but with the upgraded brakes. Is that correct?
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I will check the ground. I think thats the problem but will pull light assembly also and check connection. Thanks
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86 911-All signals work but driver front, parking light works when headlights on. Changed bulb still not working. Any ideas? Maybe relay/switch? Would really apperciate it. Thanks
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That's what I was thinking maybe a switch or fuse. Thanks everyone for the help. Aloha!
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That's weird. It was always able to adjust the temp and fan speed at different levels at the same time, it was great. Wondering....why would they put two controllers for the fan speeds if you couldn't individually control them like the temp? I thought that's why it's called two zone and two buttons to control temp and fan speed on either side. I wish it would good back.
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Yes, air speed but I was able to control air speed and temp on either side at different levels as a two zone. Now, its controlling as one. I have always been able to control either zone. Ex.-Driver 65temp 3bar air speed, Pass. 68temp 5 bar air speed. Any level or temp driver or pass. wants.Now, both same temp and air speed no matter which controls you use, driver or pass.
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Yes, I tried that but nothing changed.
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The two zone A/C was working fine, the driver side control air level on its side and as so the pass. side. I went to lunch and when I came back the drivers controls would also control the pass. side air level and the other way around. Now, I can't figure out what happened and how to get it to go back so driver and pass. can control their own air level. Auto A/C makes the two zones blow as one but after turning auto off, you still can't control either zones. Any ideas? Thanks
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poly-rib/ serpentine belt replacement
kimichi replied to kimichi's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Thanks alot. Really appreciate it. :renntech: -
Need help with instructions to change belt. Every link is shutdown to follow instructions. Can anyone lead me the right way? Also if anyone has instructions for the belt tensioner? Thanks!
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I would forget about the plastic window and see if you can change the whole top w/ the glass window, I believe 2002 or 2003 model. I'm surprised that insurance covers that because most car wash places have a sign not to use the car wash if it's convertible but if its hand washed then it's the workers. Hatin'! I've seen top w/glass going for around 500 to 600 and the plastic ones for around 400. Well, good luck!
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Grinding sound behind driver & pass. need HELP!
kimichi replied to kimichi's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
No I have not gotten the mounts checked. I have 57,777 miles on it and just started to make that noise recently but I have noticed that when I start the car and it's in park the engine has a weird vibration then when the car warms the vibration sound seems to muffin but still noticeable. -
Hey everyone, got a problem w/ my 986s. Every time I gas the pedal turning either right or left there's this grinding sound but spinning and grinding. It only happens when I gas the car and take kind of sharp turns. I inspected the struts and saw no leakage of any kind. There are no scrap marks anywhere in the wheel well or anything that would indicate any damage from the grinding sound. I'm thinking if it my transmission? I'm not to sure. If anyone has the same problem or have any idea's, it would be great! Thanks guys!!!
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Well, I'm back with results! Just got fuel tank pressure sensor today and installed. Problem fixed, no CEL. Alright! It took 4 days for the part. Porsche was charging $365 just for the part. other shops $265. I got it for $220. Thanks again, guys! :D
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Thanks for the info. about changing the sensor and clearing the code, (TP) that helped me. Much mahalos! Now for the second part, I have no idea what the part# is and can't find the part online. I guess I'll need to call porsche but parts dept. seem to never answer the phone. Theres only one place I found it online for $214, is that the avg. $ for this sensor or does anyone know of a place where its lower in cost? :renntech:
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Okay, I'm back again with another question about error code P0453 for 00 986S. I found the tank pressure sensor under the battery and checkout the wires and it looks good. I also viewed the fault text and it's fault #4 which indicts a short to B+, every other place I looked for answers about the code say, "check wire or replace sensor." The error code list P0450-52-53 says tank pressure sensor. I was wondering if anyone else incountered this problem and just changed the sensor and did the error get solved or remained? I've been searching online for that part and it seems that noone even has a tank pressure sensor, it keeps showing fuel/tank pressure regulator, no tank pressure sensor. Can anyone help with the Part# and guide me to a place with a reasonal price where I can buy it? And also is the tank pressure sensor a common problem or just in some cases? Aother question, does disconnecting the battery clear the code or would I need the scan tool to clear the OBD code or key on position & press the gas for 11 sec.? I've seen websites with these answers but not to sure which is true. Ideas!