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tjmturbo
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I attached a picture of a sample set of coilovers with the components idetified. When you use a race spring the size varies considerably most of the time they are smaller. The tendor spring takes up the space and acts as a filler so the main spring doesn't flop around when unloaded. Spring rates can also be complicated depending on the damper and track conditions. Spring rates over 1000lbs seem to designed for race only cars that carry many more suspension components than a street or DE car. A helper spring is yet another type of spring. Any help would be appreciated. If this is too complicated just let me know. I know suspension geometry can get crazy.
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Loren, Have a GT3 2007. Primary use is at track day events. I run slicks with upgraded H&R springs at 400lb front and 600lb rear. Will be upgrading the dampers to Motons and stiffer springs. I am thinking about going to 700lb front and 900lb rear. When changing the springs as described above do I need to change the tenders as well? How does one determine what tenders to use with the different spring rates? I realize this is a bit complicated but can you shed a little light on the roll of the tenders Some people say put them on the top and others say put them on the bottom. Thanks Tom
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Loren, Can you give me some guideance on PCCB rotor replacement for a 2007 GT3. The ceramic rotors are showing signs of wear and I would like to replace them with steel. The car is a track car and the cost of ceramic rotors is now prohibitive. I was hoping to replace the caramics with GT3 Cup rotors. I think the front Cup rotors will work ok. The rear rotors seem to be a problem, something to do with the emergency brakes that sit behind the rotor hats. My question is, if I eliminate the emergency brake pads and associated hardware and tie off the cables will the Cup rotors work on the rear. Are the sizes compatable front and rear. If Cup rotors won't work are there other alternatives other than going with stock steel rotors? Thanks for you help. Tom
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Great information, Thanks
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Loren, Thanks, as always good information Tom
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Loren, Do you happen to know the RPM ranges associated with each of the six ranges on a GT3? Thanks Tom
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Loren, Just a follow up on the shift light install. On the DME, plug "A" has six wires that come from the coils, if you tap one of them, eg. blue/green, it will give you the analog signal for a shift light. Use this tap and a 12 volt source and your in business. the hardest part was running the wires from the DME through the console to the front of the dash. So far it works fine. Thanks
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When you say use a jumper do you mean I should tie the two red wires that are on the plug end together. If so, I can use one of the broken parts and cut the plug end off and just tie the wires together and put the female plug back in the connector and effectively dummy out the connection. Is that what you are suggesting? Sorry if I am a little slow on this one. It seems like every time I remove something lights come on! Thanks Please disregard the second reply I must have sent it twice by mistake Thanks for your help
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When you say use a jumper do you mean I should tie the two red wires that are on the plug end together. If so, I can use one of the broken parts and cut the plug end off and just tie the wires together and put the female plug back in the connector and effectively dummy out the connection. Is that what you are suggesting? Sorry if I am a little slow on this one. It seems like every time I remove something lights come on! Thanks
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Loren, My GT3 is used almost exclusively on the track. As I replace the PCCB brake pads frequently the wear sensors always seem to succumb to the heat and just seem to crack and break apart as I remove them. Is it possible to remove/disconnect the sensors completely and run without them? Will anything light up on the dash? Thanks
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Thanks for the quick reply. I am not familiar with the CAN Bus? Is it something I can access and tap into? Where is it located? Some of the more sophisticated telemetry systems use the CAN bus - you can tap in at the cluster or the DME. The cluster I assume you mean the instrument cluster? On the DME/ECU can you tell me what lead to tap into? Does it have some kind of identification? Do you know where I can get a swithced 12 volt as well? Thanks Some of the more sophisticated telemetry systems use the CAN bus - Do you have a system theat can pick up network (CAN) data? No I don't have a system that will pick up the CAN. The light I am using is a simple device with a tach lead, a 12v and a ground. I pulled the DME wireing diagram from Porsche PIWIS TSI for the inside of the car and I couldn't find anything that indicated a tach lead or a coil pac etc? I am stumped? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Thanks for the quick reply. I am not familiar with the CAN Bus? Is it something I can access and tap into? Where is it located? Some of the more sophisticated telemetry systems use the CAN bus - you can tap in at the cluster or the DME. The cluster I assume you mean the instrument cluster? On the DME/ECU can you tell me what lead to tap into? Does it have some kind of identification? Do you know where I can get a swithced 12 volt as well? Thanks
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The shift light is as you suggest more for racing applications. The light is a relatively large LED, in my case a yellow light that comes on at a pre-set RPM. This allows the driver to stay focused on the race track and still hit the shift points. Using the tach requires a bit of scanning to determine when to shift. Going into a turn at speeds over 140mph and trying to scan the tach, down shift, and turn is a bit much for me. So the use of the light works for me. Light comes on! No thought I just shift.
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Thanks for the quick reply. I am not familiar with the CAN Bus? Is it something I can access and tap into? Where is it located?
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Loren, Some time ago you pointed me to the tach lead, the Violet/Green wire, on the OBD port on my 996TT. In addition to my Turbo I now have a 2007 GT3 and would like to install the same kind of shift light. In exploring the connections I have found that nothing is the same as the Turbo. No phone plug to pick up the switched 12 volt and pin 9 on the OBD port is empty. I did find a power port that I can use for the 12 volt. Problem is, it is hot all the time. I plan to cut a on/off switch in but would prefer a connection that would worked with the ingnition on/off. Is there any kind of phone connector in the console? Can you also tell me if the same Violet/Green wire will work for the tach lead? If the same Violet/Green wire is there do you know what pin it is? Thanks
