jamesgood72

I still have this problem in my car... :(

I disconnected the idle speed control (the 4 contact connector on the bottom) and started the car, and the car ran the same as when it was connected. Can anyone confirm if that is to be expected or not? I think maybe the solenoid in the control is not opening the intake; does that sound right? How much does a new one cost, roughly? I will attempt to clean this one out and see if I can get it to work.

Thanks for any insight...

-James.

I've been driving the car for a week now, and still have idle speed problems. A little searching on here found this thread by Loren :

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6828

I would think that it's that idle speed control that is not working correctly, or not connected properly. I will check that out tonight. Would there be any codes I should be able to read if that were the case?

Thanks,

-James.

I drove into work this morning (20 miles), and I noticed that the idle was way high (1500rpm!) with my little spacer on top of the idle adjustment screw. So - it looks as though things have sorted themselves out. I'll remove the spacer when I get home tonight - it looks to me as though the DME has adjusted things as you thought.

It's odd though, the fact that the car wouldn't keep running at first. I would start it, and it would do it's initial rev-up, then immediately stall. If I used the accelerator pedal to keep it at 1000rpm for a few minutes, as soon as I released the pedal - it would stall. Then, after I added in my spacer, and did that 20 mile first test drive, it still seemed to be the same. This morning, however, things look like they might be back to normal.

I hope so! I'll let you know after I take out the spacer this evening. I'll also report if any codes are present...

-James.

Thanks demosan. :thumbup: Does this relearning of the idle apply to my car - I have a '99 C2 which does not have the e throttle. I think this is the only 996 which has the wire cable for the throttle? I'll check for codes again today, but I still don't have a CEL light on, so I don't think there are any.

-James.

I'll do the battery disconnect for 10 minutes. I just took it out for a 15 mile drive, all seemed good after I temporarily adjusted the height of the throttle stop by attaching a spacer to the top of it. It prevents the throttle from closing completely, the car idles much better, allowing it to be driven. I guess I'll have to take it in to see what they think. I'll get the codes read too, but I have no CEL on, so I assume there would be none?

Thanks for the help again, Izzy.

-James.

I cleaned the MAF this morning (following this : http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996turb...f-cleaning.html ) and there is no difference. In fact, there is no difference if I completely unplug the MAF connection.

The car does seem to run fine if I keep my foot on the accelerator to keep the engine above 800 rpm. Let it go below that, and it seems to have problems, but that sounds normal to me. Where is the idle speed positioner?

So - how do you adjust the idle speed on a 996 C2? And how could it have changed after fitting a new alternator? I have done the reset by turning the key to the on position for at least 1 minute and then off for 10 seconds. That also didn't seem to help.

-James.

Thanks Izzy. I have plugged in the electrical connector on my airbox, although it is quite a different design (stock) to the one in your picture. Would a failed MAF likely cause my engines inability to idle do you think?

-James.

I put a code reader on it, and got a P0102 - maf or vaf circuit low input. I believe that's the MAF just above the alternator, right?

Anyway, I drove the car around the block, it drives fine, and appears to be charging. It's just that it won't idle. Gah.

When I tried to remove the more accessable line from the MAF, the line snapped, it was extremely brittle and a little force to try and remove it from the rubber connector snapped it. I used a piece of flexible hose that the Porsche parts place gave me to reconnect it, and thought all would be OK. You think that could be causing this bad reading?

-James.

OK, everything is back in and everything seems to be working - we have charging happening, and the other accessories seem to work. However - the car will not idle. This was not a problem before. If I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm all seems good. But it will not idle there by itself. Could I have changed the throttle cable adjustment inadvertently? I'll search around for this problem, but if anyone has any input, I'd appreciate it...

I've included a picture below of the new alternator in place, and the fix on that coolant pipe that I had to do.

BTW - here is a list of threads that I've found useful for anyone else that attempts this job :

http://p-car.com/996/diy/sai/mainpage.html

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=brittle

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=brittle

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996turb...ve-replace.html

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;hl=recharge

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=9299&st=0

THanks,

-James.

Thanks hi8ha. That's what I was thinking, there doesn't seem anyway to remove it without a sawing it apart. I was surprised it wasn't a reusable clamp.

Here's a better picture :

New alternator is now installed. I got it from vertexauto, Izzy, they were great.

I just have to fix the coolant hose. I have a connector to join the two pieces, but I can't get the old connector on the bottom piece of hose off. I've included a picture of it. WHat's the trick to removing that fastener?

Really appreciate any help - I'm getting there with renntech.org's help!

-James.

Well, I got it out. Definitely had a bit of a fight with it though, and unfortunately I broke the coolant connector that runs to the right of it. Still, it's out and the coolant fix should be easy, I hope. Now I have the fun of getting the new one in! THanks for your help.

OK, I'm back. Sorry. :)

I've got everything disconnected, and all the bolts out of the mounting points, but it's still stuck in the car. The front right mount is now loose, as is the left mount, but I'm having a devil of a time man-handling the thing out. It appears that I can't move it high enough to move it over the mounting points. The intake manifold (at point X on the picture below) stops it from going any higher. Any ideas?

Thanks,

-James.

Ah, well that explains that column, thanks. So - should I get a 996 603 012 02 or 996 603 012 01 for a 99 C2 Manual? I don't understand the brackets around the 30's in the 'pos' column...

BTW (completely unrelated) - some nice C4S pictures I just ran across on Flickr here :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelwardph...4237083/?page=3

Once again, thanks.

I was asking because I got a perfectly working Alternator for $50.00 although learned about the manual and tip difference after purchase.

Will check the model number and see what I got.

I'm sort of confused about this too... Some places list two different types, some it's one... The document Loren posted there (and Izzy gave to me earlier) seems to list one 996 603 012 01 for a '99, and a number of others for later models '00-' -or am I reading that wrong?

I'm thinking I will just take mine off, and check it against one in the porsche parts place here in Miami, that Izzy just directed me to.

Keep me posted on how you go with this hi8ha...

-James.

I called vertex, they have one in stock. Thanks for that tip. I think I will get mine out, and take it down there, after this storm passes. Thank you!

-James.

I only see one genarator in the PET for 1999, part number 996 603 012 01. This is in page 508 of:

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/pdf/e...996_KATALOG.pdf.

Would vertexauto.com have it? I think they are out by the airport in Miami

Thanks everyone.

Anyone in the US ordered an alternator recently? I'm unsure of which part to order from the big local parts places, they don't seem to specify which alternator is for which transmission type car. And of course, the local sales people can't help. Anyone got a part number for the alternator for a '99 manual tranmission C2?

Cheers

-James.

I got a new battery a few months ago. I'm guessing that the failure of that battery caused these problems with my alternator. I've since had the battery checked, and it appears to check out good.

Anyone know how difficult it is to change the pulley? I suppose it would be OK to swap the pulley from my old alternator to the new one, if it doesn't come with one?

Pelican Parts has a different part listed for tiptronic and manual cars (mine is manual) - and the manual version is $75 more. What would the reason for that be? Autozone seem to supply without the pulley. Is the free-wheeling pulley $75?! Sorry for all the questions...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._ELchrg_pg1.htm

-James.

Quick question - If I get a replacement alternator without they pulley, is that difficult to remove from my old core, and put onto the new unit?

ALso - I think this is the unit I need. Correct? 12093 also appears to be the part number on Autozone as well.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...ernator+-+Remfd

Thanks,

-James.

My turn tonight...

My 99 C2 seemed slow to turn over after a short trip to the shops, but she did actually start. Then on the 4 mile ride home, I noticed a brief display of one of the lights on the dash, couldn't tell which one it was too brief. A mile later, I saw the ABS light come on, along with the battery light. Ut oh. Look over at the volt meter, and it was way down. 10V, whereas it's usually about 13.5V. Arggh. Turned off fans, lights, etc, limped home (with the dash warning lights sometimes on, sometimes off), parked, and got the clicking when trying to start again.

We had just done a 200 mile trip last weekend, glad it didn't happen far from home.

I did replace the battery about 6 months ago, and had no problems in the mean time.

I'm guessing alternator, but maybe I'll take the battery in to be checked - it's under warranty anyway.

If the battery is OK, I'll try the DIY alternator replacement. Wish me luck!

-James.

Ah, man, that's tough. Where were you parked in Miami?

Sounds interesting. Although I don't use an iPod, I fitted an aux input to my 99 996 for my Palm Treo. The noise filter is interesting, since I do experience some of that. I also get very loud GSM transmission noise, something I never noticed with this same phone in my '04 MINI Cooper S (also using an aux input).

-James.

Interesting. The check engine light recently came on in my 99 C2. Next time I filled up, it went off. It just came on again.

I wonder if that's something to do with it.

-James.

my dealer has informed me that my engine check light is on due to a fault with the tank pressure sensor (part 996 606 20500)

Has anyone got any experience changing this part or have and pictures of the part or the change process?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Syed

1999 911 Cab

Thanks JeTexas, I will check on that next time I fill up. I wasn't aware on any regulation change for the pumps, but I'll check it out.

-James.

Were they pumps with the vapor return hoses over the spouts? I have a terrible time keeping those sealed on my 99 C2. I can't let the hose hang. I've got to keep pressure on the nozzle the entire time to keep it pumping. Otherwise the vapor seal gets broken and the pump shuts off. We have them all over here in Houston, but lots of smaller towns don't require them yet.