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jamesgood72

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Everything posted by jamesgood72

  1. The oil turned out to be brake fluid, from the clutch master cylinder. That's been replaced, and all is good again. At the same time, I also replaced the a/c evaporator, and that is now holding charge. -James. Some body diagnosed with ultra ear device to detect small leaks plus if take a sneaky look thru the blower compartment you can see the evaporator oily. I did a second diagnose by using the UV refrigerant with UV light detector to confirm my self, a $20 thing.
  2. William at JW has done my a/c evap and clutch master cylinder. He does great work, and treats customers very well, I'm really happy. Definitely a 'go to' guy if you're in Miami or the surrounding area. -James.
  3. My front hood had been stuck closed for a while. Pulling on the regular lever didn't produce the normal release, and no matter how hard I pulled it up, it wouldn't open. I took the front passenger wheel off this weekend, removed the well lining, and found the emergency release cable. After a few hard yanks on that, I was able to get my fingers under the hood, and open it. One of the problems, I believe, was that the hood was not being raised at all upon release of the catch. I've now got the latch out, but can't really see what is wrong with it. Possibly the spring does not have the right tension. Can anyone tell from the pictures what could be wrong with it? I know, that sounds a little silly, and I'm sure I'll have to take it into my local parts place for them to look at. I don't really want to spend $150 to replace a part that (at least on the surface) looks to have very little wrong with it... Thanks, -James.
  4. Thanks for the recommendation of J & W, they are very close to where I work, I've emailed them. http://jwmotorsportsracing.com Eric, thank you for that recommendation too, but that's a little too far North for me. It'd be a pain to have to get someone to drive up there with me. -James.
  5. Does anyone have any recommendation on German Car Care in Miami off of US1 near Coral Gables (my neighbour says they've done good work for him)? In answer to the question above, there are lots. I know of the following in the Coral Gables area : -Scott Finlay -Vertex Auto -German Car Care I like Vertex when I'm picking up parts, but wasn't impressed with the guy who had a quick look at my A/C. Scott has done good work for me in the past, but I believe he is expensive, and has inconvenient hours. I have my A/C which needs fixing (probably the evaporator), so I know it's going to be a big bill. -James.
  6. Any one got any ideas on the fluid I am seeing in the drivers side front carpets? I've searched on here, but haven't found anything relevant. Is it possible for brake fluid to leak into that area? Thanks, -James.
  7. Jose, how did you know the evap was leaking? I have thin oil appearing on my front driver side carpets (not much, but the surface of the carpet is oily, not engine oil, much thinner). I assume this could be either a/c lubricant, or brake fluid? It is discolouring the (black) carpet, so maybe it's brake fluid? It's summer time in Miami, and I'm driving around without a/c at the moment. :) I guess I better get to work on fixing this sometime soon, before I melt... -James.
  8. Thanks for all that info. Especially the pics, Jose. I guess this evap/housing wouldn't require the rebuild too? http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...573-901-02-M262 WHy did you have to get the car towed? Because you didn't want to run the car with the a/c in bits? -James.
  9. Thanks for the reply. From the description, it looks like the Valeo part is the same as the Porsche part, it includes the housing, so no need to disassemble the old one. I spoke to Pelican, they confirmed that was the case too. They said Valeo make the parts for Porsche, so the quality is good. I'm going to get a quote from another Independent on Monday, and make a decision then. If anyone has any experience in doing this themselves, I'd love to know a rough number of hours, or if it's doable by myself. I couldn't find a Howto on removing the housing. -James.
  10. My A/C has been extremely weak for a while. I had topped up the R134a a few times, but it only lasted a few weeks. I took it into my local independent (who seems to be a pretty good guy) yesterday, and he got back to me today to say it was the evaporator which needs replacing. Going to cost me $2830. Searching on Pelican parts, it seems the complete air housing and evaporator ("this is the original equipment replacement, complete air housing assembly with evaporator") is $1600 for the official Porsche part, and $736 for a Valeo equivalent replacement. I have also requested a quote from Sunset through this site. The quote seems high to me, does it to you guys? Anyone any experience with using the Valeo replacement? I don't think this is a job I want to do myself, mainly because I don't have a/c discharge / recharge equipment. I guess I will need that, after reading the service manual. Thanks, -James.
  11. Wow, well there you go! So the problem is finally solved (other than that it didn't seem to be noticed immediately after the new wheels went on)? -James.
  12. Thanks for the tip, Orlandoguy. I'll check this out on my car. Loren, I'm pretty handy with search features usually, but I've had this problem, and searched for it, and didn't find anything. I think I searched on 'fuel overflow' and 'fuel filler overflow', but couldn't find any relevant posts. -James.
  13. Interesting. Would love to see pictures of your install. How much did it all cost, and can you detail the installation process? Thanks! -James.
  14. Hi all, I recently got an iPhone 3G, and although my Becker aux cable is working well with it, I would like a charge / audio connection, as well as steering wheel control of the iPhone. Looks like this would provide most of this : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011UK2HE It's a Kensington LiquidAUX Auxiliary Car Kit with Remote. I am thinking about getting one, and trying to hardwire the power connector into the 12V line. Has anyone else tried this? Thanks, -James.
  15. Interesting to hear, Dharn. I wonder if the C4 is much better than a C2? I know the C4's 4WD system is not really designed to improve snow operation. -James.
  16. Ha, you try living with GSM buzz due to corporate email on a Treo. :) Every few minutes theres a new email coming in... With my MINI, I had to have the phone very close to the stereo head unit to be affected by it, but in the Porsche the phone just has to be in the car and it'll interfere. I was wondering if foil or something could be used to help shield it. -James. GSM noise is a fact of life. It will even show up on land line phones. I like the GSM Buzz because I can hear it on the radio when I have to top down, and that alerts me to an incoming call.
  17. Do you guys notice especially high sensitivity to GSM noise (blackberry buzz, etc) with the Becker units? I notice a lot more than I did in my MINI Cooper S. Is there anything I can do to shield it from these signals? Thanks, -James.
  18. Well, I finally have this fixed. It was the Idle Control Valve (ICV), which was all coked up. I removed it from the throttle body (after removing the throttle body from the engine first), and cleaned it with carb cleaner, a toothbush and finally some cotton buds. Put it all back together, and the idle is now perfect, settling out at 800 rpm after a second or so. This post helped me : http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=9299&st=0 I have pictures of the process if anyone is interested. -James.
  19. Glad it all worked out OK! Thanks for the info on the idling too, also good to know. -James.
  20. I was wondering about that too. I assume you have to take the throttle body off (the four bolts), to get to it. I tried removing the idle control valve 'in position' but couldn't get a good angle on the rear torx screw so aborted since I didn't want to destroy the screw. I think my idle control valve is faulty too. -James.
  21. I've not noticed any problems with mine, although I do have to disclaim that I do have (what I think is) a separate problem. My idle speed is not right. I've asked here about that, and nobody seems to know what it is. I don't think it's due to that repair. -James.
  22. Actually, when I picked up my alternator from Vertex Auto here in Miami, I tipped the guy and he just gave me a little bit of tubing. He people do this quite often. <_< I would ask at your local autoparts store, say you have some vacuum tubing of so and so size, and they should be able to help. I know my local Autozone has a small section for vacuum tubing parts, even if they don't have helpful staff. :) When doing the join, I tried to ensure that the two original bits of the tube where pushed tightly together, in case the more flexible joining tube would collapse once there's a vacuum within it. If you see what I mean... -James.
  23. Hi Ultramens, That is one of the two small vacuum lines that goes into the vacuum switchover valve, I believe. I added a new link onto my post with all the links - that should help you and Granbury out. I had the same thing on my alternator install, I broke one moving things around whilst trying to get the alternator out. I fixed it by using a small (2 inch long) piece of flexible hose (the blue part in my picture there). It fit very snug, and simply joined the two tubes. Hopefully Loren would agree those are the vacuum tubes going into the switchover valve. What does that do, that valve, Loren? -James.
  24. Neil, yes, the rear bushing is designed to move. A gentle tap to the fastening bolt before it is removed (but after loosening a few turns) is all that is required to open up the bushing and make removal easy. Granbury, I sent you a PM. Cheers, -James.
  25. Hi Granbury, I recently went through this on my 99 C2. I can offer help, I learnt alot in the process. I have some documents at home I can send you tonight. There are certain things that make the job MUCH easier. The first is realising how to release the alternator once you have access to it. My thread is here : http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=20598 -James.
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