99-996

I have a couple of starters if you are interested in one. I was having what I thought were starter problems in my 2000 Cab after I put the engine back in. The starter would only click, but not turn the car over. First replaced the battery, which seemed to help for a short period of time. then replaced the ignition switch, which did nothing. Then put in a rebuilt starter, still same problem. Then put in a new starter, same problem.

Then on the advice of another owner I checked the engine ground strap, cleaned the connections and everything works fine, this was the problem from the start.

So now I have the original starter and a rebuilt starter. I will take $50 for the orignal or $125 for the rebuilt, includes shipping within the continental US. PM me if you are interested.

Do you still have the starters? Mine is not retracting and making a wonderful noise...occasionally...but has been diagniosed as the starter. How hard was this to replace? It looks accessible...

Thanks,

Erik

just went in to get tags and they ran my check engine light. it was an air sensor code on bank one??? the mechanic said it could just be a vacuum tube? is this something that i can do or check and if so, where do i start?

car is 99-996 c2

Thanks in advance!

Erik

I think i can get the codes from the invoice they gave me.

so i replaced the idler pulley and the noise continues. it still only happens when i start it and i can occasionally hear a trace of it when driving...barely noticeable when driving, not near the 2 second squeal i get at start. the tech said it might also be the air oil separator...the part is not expensive ($150) but i hear the labor quote at 6-8 hours. i had a friend start it while listening and it does sound like it comes from the alternator (which is why i replaced that idler pulley). guess i will try to replace that bearing that mkazemi71 was talking about.

I have been chasing a hamster in my 90,000 mile 996 engine for a year now. The hamster finally made its noise for my Porsche tech. The diagnosis was a squeaky bearing in the oil scavenger pump. I have yet to look up the engine diagram to see where this part sits, but my tech said it was in the cam housing.

Sound also only happened at 3,000 rpm.

The tech said he has only every had one other 996 with this problem. I will pick up my car Wednesday, and hope the hamster will be dead. This comes after replacing an idler pulley thought to be the problem.

that sounds like a much more expensive hampster. i ordered the pulley and am hoping it cures it...nervously awaiting...

my 99 996 needed a clutch at 45k and the rms was showing no signs of leaking. i had them replace it while they were in there and it is still tight at 65k.

e

when i start my car, occasionally i get a loud squeal...not a belt. when driving at normal rpm (2500-3500) then let off i can hear what sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel.

A 300bhp hamster wheel to be sure. . .

i hope after removal of this powerful creature i still have the same acceleration....if not i will re-instal that critter and begin a full marketing campaign for cheap hp increase!

Double check first to make sure there isn't a real hamster in your engine bay. I have heard of rougue hamsters attacking random Porsches for no apparent reason... :lol:

i also have heard of this...after further inspection, no hamster!

Very likely you are right.

It is not too hard to change but don't wait long - sometime when they break they can take out the alternator and more...

Thanks Loren.

i will call the dealer to get the number and replace that. Looks to be just the one bolt holding it there...

i think i found them. there is an upper and a lower. they are $80 each.

996-102-118-56-M100

Drive Belt Idle Roller Upper (on Engine Console), Carrera (1999-05) (Tiptronic) Carrera 4 (1999-05) (Tiptronic)

Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info]

996-102-119-58-M100

Drive Belt Idle Roller Lower (on Engine Case), Carrera (1999-05) (Tiptronic) Carrera 4 (1999-05) (Tiptronic)

Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info]

Very likely you are right.

It is not too hard to change but don't wait long - sometime when they break they can take out the alternator and more...

Thanks Loren.

i will call the dealer to get the number and replace that. Looks to be just the one bolt holding it there...

i think i have a pulley bearing going out on my 99 996 c2 cab.

when i start my car, occasionally i get a loud squeal...not a belt. when driving at normal rpm (2500-3500) then let off i can hear what sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel...

i think it is the pulley to the right of the alternator and under the oil filler tube.

any ideas before i take it to the dealer.

Thanks,

Erik

fuel gage at 0 might be due to the price of gas....that is what was wrong with mine!

;)

thanks for that link Loren. i will pay close attention to the levels and temp...i hope this version of the coolant reservoir has not also failed like the last 9 or so versions....

thanks for the quick responses

e

you mean that little sensor located under the coolant res. that i tried so hard not to break when i replaced the tank last year???

looks to be in and plugged in...

Hi all,

i have had my 99-996 for about 30k and it currently has about 56k total miles. I was driving today and the red light on the dash, that is the high temp mark on the thermostat started flashing. the temp stayed perfect at the bottom (cool) side of the 180 where it always is (for about 12 miles home) but i have no idea what or why this has started flashing.

i also checked the coolant reservoir after i got home and it seemed to still be full. i know this gets hot and expands and i checked it after a couple hours of cooling...same...still full.

do i have another leak in the coolant system?

any thoughts?

Thanks,

Erik

Just replaced all 4 (pads) today. If you have any experience with tools, this is a very easy job.

The only thing that I could add would be that even after you reset the pistons (the channel locks work perfect) the vibration dampers are stuck to the old pads and require a bit of careful prying to get them seperated which i found is the only way to get the pads out. After that it is smooth sailing.

To make this a bit more accesable, turn the wheel all the way left to access the left side and vice versa...no way to make the rear easier.

Also, I found that the new wear sensors were a bit loose when securing them to the new pads (outside front in particular). I secured them with some heavy two sided tape.

I found that I only needed front sensors also and that the rear pads still had 30% wear left. Might not be the norm but I could have gotten away with just doing the front. Did the rear anyways.

Was a fun job though...hope this helps!

Erik :thumbup:

The CEL does go out for several "drive cycles". Give it a couple of days and if it does not go out then get your fault codes read at an Autozone (or other parts store that will read them for free).

Hi all, hope you are enjoying the holidays.

Knowing i was low on fuel i was headed directly to the local pump when the throtle went unresponsive and the steering became nice and firm followed by the check engine light coming on...i was our of gas! I finished the trip to the station on my own power and fueled it up. She started up fine but the check engine light didn't go off. Just wondering if this is also something i need the dealer to turn off?

With all the lights on my dash going on, i might be able to pass on a christmas tree this year.

Thanks in advance for the trouble shooting.

Erik

Thanks Loren.

Erik

Hey all,

Out of the blue when i was driving, my airbag light on the dash came on and won't go off. I turned the car off and back on figuring it might just cycle but it is still on. My first question would be why did this happen? Should i be concerned that it is not functional? How do i fix this?

99 996 C2

Thanks,

Erik

Hi all,

I am going to tackle my clutch on my 99-996 c2 and was hoping someone had some advice on this. From what I can tell it seems to be a bolt off/bolt on job. Are there any adjustments that need done after replacing the parts?

Is the following seem to ba a complete list? I found it on ebay for $374

This complete clutch kit contains the following components:

SACHS Porsche OEM Pressure Plate

SACHS Porsche OEM Clutch Disc

SACHS OEM Release Bearing

SACHS OEM Release Bearing Kit

Genuine SACHS Clutch Kit Part #: K70246-01-14

If anyone has advice or knows where a nice detailed step by step is Iwould appreciate it.

Erik

Are you doing this on the floor? Cause its so much easier on a car lift. I dont recall any special adjustments needing to be made, put you will need the right clutch alignment tool. Good luck and have fun.

vizcarra44

i have a friend that manages a shop and i can use the lift there...maybe some of his mechanics advise too.

thanks,

Just had the clutch replaced on my 987s , which is a similar unit. Some additional things to be aware of , you may also need gaskets and clutch pressure plate bolts. With the clutch out you may also want to replace the Rear Main Seal with the uprated design. The dual mass flywheel should also be checked for freeplay , if it is slack , doesnt return to original position or the springs are weak this will also need replacing. Not sure if a special tools are required on the 996 , but one is required on the 986/987. Unless you have a very well equipped garage, personally i'd defer this task to a good independant. There is a write oup on replacing the rear main oli seal futher down in this section. This will give you an idea of the work involved.

i saw that and it looked quite simple...i just dont know if the looks are deceiving. i just dont know if there are any other adjustments or alignments that are required after the new parts are in. that article didnt mention anything about adjusting the clutch after putting it back in...any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all,

I am going to tackle my clutch on my 99-996 c2 and was hoping someone had some advice on this. From what I can tell it seems to be a bolt off/bolt on job. Are there any adjustments that need done after replacing the parts?

Is the following seem to ba a complete list? I found it on ebay for $374

This complete clutch kit contains the following components:

SACHS Porsche OEM Pressure Plate

SACHS Porsche OEM Clutch Disc

SACHS OEM Release Bearing

SACHS OEM Release Bearing Kit

Genuine SACHS Clutch Kit Part #: K70246-01-14

If anyone has advice or knows where a nice detailed step by step is Iwould appreciate it.

Erik

Just finished the job...not that hard but you need some patience. took me just over 2 hours. removing those fuel lines are the key to the tank sliding in and out. after inspecting the tank i did locate the crack...it was on the bottom of the top tier of the tank right in the seam.

thanks for the great diy instructions and the savings of about $500...that will go to my new clutch which i think i will try to do myself too. i read a diy on the rms and during the re-installation for the clutch i didnt see any adjustments that were needed. is the clutch just a bolt off bolt on job?

erik

and i didnt break that sensor from the bottom of the tank....whew!

Just finished the job...not that hard but you need some patience. took me just over 2 hours. removing those fuel lines are the key to the tank sliding in and out. after inspecting the tank i did locate the crack...it was on the bottom of the top tier of the tank right in the seam.

thanks for the great diy instructions and the savings of about $500...that will go to my new clutch which i think i will try to do myself too. i read a diy on the rms and during the re-installation for the clutch i didnt see any adjustments that were needed. is the clutch just a bolt off bolt on job?

erik

great diy instructions...i was looking through the pictures and it looks as if a clutch replacement is a fairly uncomplicated procedure. can anyone shed any light on this or should i just pay the $1800 that the dealer wants? i found the clutch kit which includes

# The following clutch kit includes: SACHS heavy-duty Pressure Plate (Made in Germany)

# SACHS heavy-duty Clutch Disc (Made in Germany)

# SACHS Release Bearing (Made in Germany)

# SACHS Special Lubricant

is this a diy project...do i need a lift or can i do it on ramps? how long did it take?

again, great diy write up!

thanks

erik