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  • From
    Reston VA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    99 carrera 996 cab
  • Future cars
  • Former cars

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99-996's Achievements


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  1. Do you still have the starters? Mine is not retracting and making a wonderful noise...occasionally...but has been diagniosed as the starter. How hard was this to replace? It looks accessible... Thanks, Erik
  2. just went in to get tags and they ran my check engine light. it was an air sensor code on bank one??? the mechanic said it could just be a vacuum tube? is this something that i can do or check and if so, where do i start? car is 99-996 c2 Thanks in advance! Erik I think i can get the codes from the invoice they gave me.
  3. so i replaced the idler pulley and the noise continues. it still only happens when i start it and i can occasionally hear a trace of it when driving...barely noticeable when driving, not near the 2 second squeal i get at start. the tech said it might also be the air oil separator...the part is not expensive ($150) but i hear the labor quote at 6-8 hours. i had a friend start it while listening and it does sound like it comes from the alternator (which is why i replaced that idler pulley). guess i will try to replace that bearing that mkazemi71 was talking about.
  4. that sounds like a much more expensive hampster. i ordered the pulley and am hoping it cures it...nervously awaiting...
  5. my 99 996 needed a clutch at 45k and the rms was showing no signs of leaking. i had them replace it while they were in there and it is still tight at 65k. e
  6. A 300bhp hamster wheel to be sure. . . i hope after removal of this powerful creature i still have the same acceleration....if not i will re-instal that critter and begin a full marketing campaign for cheap hp increase!
  7. i also have heard of this...after further inspection, no hamster!
  8. Thanks Loren. i will call the dealer to get the number and replace that. Looks to be just the one bolt holding it there... i think i found them. there is an upper and a lower. they are $80 each. 996-102-118-56-M100 Drive Belt Idle Roller Upper (on Engine Console), Carrera (1999-05) (Tiptronic) Carrera 4 (1999-05) (Tiptronic) Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info] 996-102-119-58-M100 Drive Belt Idle Roller Lower (on Engine Case), Carrera (1999-05) (Tiptronic) Carrera 4 (1999-05) (Tiptronic) Brand: Genuine Porsche [More Info]
  9. Thanks Loren. i will call the dealer to get the number and replace that. Looks to be just the one bolt holding it there...
  10. i think i have a pulley bearing going out on my 99 996 c2 cab. when i start my car, occasionally i get a loud squeal...not a belt. when driving at normal rpm (2500-3500) then let off i can hear what sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel... i think it is the pulley to the right of the alternator and under the oil filler tube. any ideas before i take it to the dealer. Thanks, Erik
  11. fuel gage at 0 might be due to the price of gas....that is what was wrong with mine! ;)
  12. thanks for that link Loren. i will pay close attention to the levels and temp...i hope this version of the coolant reservoir has not also failed like the last 9 or so versions.... thanks for the quick responses e
  13. you mean that little sensor located under the coolant res. that i tried so hard not to break when i replaced the tank last year??? looks to be in and plugged in...
  14. Hi all, i have had my 99-996 for about 30k and it currently has about 56k total miles. I was driving today and the red light on the dash, that is the high temp mark on the thermostat started flashing. the temp stayed perfect at the bottom (cool) side of the 180 where it always is (for about 12 miles home) but i have no idea what or why this has started flashing. i also checked the coolant reservoir after i got home and it seemed to still be full. i know this gets hot and expands and i checked it after a couple hours of cooling...same...still full. do i have another leak in the coolant system? any thoughts? Thanks, Erik
  15. Just replaced all 4 (pads) today. If you have any experience with tools, this is a very easy job. The only thing that I could add would be that even after you reset the pistons (the channel locks work perfect) the vibration dampers are stuck to the old pads and require a bit of careful prying to get them seperated which i found is the only way to get the pads out. After that it is smooth sailing. To make this a bit more accesable, turn the wheel all the way left to access the left side and vice versa...no way to make the rear easier. Also, I found that the new wear sensors were a bit loose when securing them to the new pads (outside front in particular). I secured them with some heavy two sided tape. I found that I only needed front sensors also and that the rear pads still had 30% wear left. Might not be the norm but I could have gotten away with just doing the front. Did the rear anyways. Was a fun job though...hope this helps! Erik :thumbup:
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