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itzbob46

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Everything posted by itzbob46

  1. itzbob46
    But Tim, what does it do??? Bob
  2. itzbob46
    Norm, Your lows stay ON when you switch to high beams, hence the problem that you envision does not occur. Bob
  3. itzbob46
    What's a bulb retainer ring????
  4. itzbob46
    Jaycenb .... Thanks for that piece of info. Right now I'm corresponding with the vendor and they are asking me if there is a capacitor in the harness with the fused line. I don't yet know and have asked them what it looks like before pulling it apart. They did not say if the capacitor should or shouldn't be there!!! WHO did you buy the kit from?? Gary .... I have a feeling that your theory is correct, but of course that does not lead me to a solution. But thanks for the thought. Bob
  5. itzbob46
    What you describe is much like many american cars and completely different than the Boxster. Since the back end of the HID and the H7 Halogen bulbs are so similar, I'm surprised that it does not fit. I'd contact the vendor and see if there is an alternative bulb. Perhaps what you received is not the correct replacement.
  6. itzbob46
    "friction and turn fits into the headlight"....??? Can you explain this a little further. Can't get a mental pic of this. Re wire colors, I have some Porsche Box wiring diagrams and traced the grounds color since I had the same problem as you are facing. I think that your color guess is right, but on the other hand, this if this is an error, it could be my idiot light gproblem!
  7. itzbob46
    Gary .... I doesn't make much sense to me either, and I wrote it. Just don't know what else it could be. These lights are supposed to use substantily less power to operate than the Halogens, but I think the draw is greater when they start (ignite), sort of like starting a motor. Bob (itzbob46)
  8. itzbob46
    Search for "HID Retrofit lights in Stock Halogen housings" on this forum. That's the original thread. I chime in with the idiot light problem on page 5. The purchasing website was http://www.cqlight.ca/index.php?cPath=32_45 . Brightstar HID is the only name on the instructions. I wrote them the following today : "More that one of us (owners of 2001 Porsche Boxsters) are writing to RennTech.org Forums describing a problem with our installed systems. When we switch on the headlights while the car is running the oil pressure and batt idiot lights come on together. If the car is shut off and restarted with the lights left on the idiot lights go off and all is well. Major annoyance. Can you help???" I'll report any answers here. Bob
  9. itzbob46
    That was me who created another thread on the exact issue. My Oil and Batt lights come on together when the headlights are turned on. I then stop the car, and restart it and the problem is gone. People have suggested that the problem is a faulty ground, but I doubt it. The headlights perform beautifully but this problem goes on and is annoying. Mine is ALSO a 2001. It is a direct hookup to the plug that connects to the original halogen low beam bulb as I recall. No rocket science. Wiring goes from ballast to igniter to bulb as instructed. I believe that there was some question re polarity, but I worked it out. I don't want to tamper with this thing again without a strong reasoning as to what could be wrong. Sounds to me like the HID system makes a heavy demand on the electrical system when swithed on, tricking the charging circuits sensors to think the battery is failing. Likely doesn't mean anything bad but is just an annoyance. I'll bet that if the lights are turned on before starting the engine that all will be well. My car is in mothballs for the winter so I can't experiment too extensively. The kit is called Brightstar. I'll search out the original thread and write again really soon. Bob
  10. itzbob46
    The car is now garaged for the winter and I finally got around to disassembling it. There is a plastic "locator" on the front of the radiator molded into the plastic end cap of the radiator that is attached to a body bracket. Appears that the previous owner somehow pounded the bottom of the plastic bumper (some kind of curb thing without scraping up the underside of the nose much) which shoved the radiator upward and the locator was stressed badly, causing a crack in the radiator end cap. Because of the plastic bushing that the locator goes through, and the horizontal lengthing of the radiator as it heats pushing it tightly against the the bracket, the leakage was minimal as the car got to full operating temp. Also shattered the bottom of the air scoop out of sight from outside the car. Radiator = $235. Scoop = $105. Time for a coolant change. As a DIY project, it's not too bad. And a good chance to clean out the radiator road debris. Thanks, Bob
  11. itzbob46
    Shawn ~ One cable does the shifting and the other tells the trans which gears to shift when the lever goes "north-south" (1-2) or (3-4), etc. So, that second cable that is commanded when the shifter moves side to side may be the culprit as well. Could be something other than those bushings such as cable "rot" or binding/rubbing like refered to by Toolpants. If you open the console up like in the early steps of the B&M instructions you can detach that cable easily and see if the shift lever moves side to side with ease in order to narrow it down to the "culprit". Hope it's the shifter....no fun fooling around under the car or replacing cables. Let us know what you find.
  12. itzbob46
    Shawn .... I don't have a short throw retrofit, but have studied them. You'll find that the B&M seems to be the most popular. I took another route. I pulled out the stock shifter and cut 7/8" off the top of the steel shift lever. It's at a much more comfortable height now, and that automaticly shortens the throw as well (somewhat). The stock shifter isn't great, but I'm not racing and I don't know what "great" feels like. To remove the bushings on the stock shifter you many have to cut them out. I advise another post to ask members who have taken these things apart. See steps 23-25 on the B&M instructions that you already have.....I'm not sure if they can be reinserted once removed or not. Many of these members have done it, so answers are available. Good Luck. Bob
  13. itzbob46
    I believe that I understand what you are describing. Look at any photo of a shifter (any brand) and you will see that there is a front and rear bushing that poivots the lever right and left. Yours must be bound up or dry. Probably needs some grease in those bushings. (and scrape out squirrel remains...lol) Maybe a good time to put in a short throw shifter! There are good instarctions available in forums for changing the shifter that will help you get to that point. Write again if can't find. Bob
  14. itzbob46
    Direct connection to the original headlight harness. This is a 2001 986 (non-S) with stock headlights. If gound was faulty, I doubt that headlights lights would work perfectly?????????? Thanks, Bob The question about the ground was to indicate that you should ensure that your new connections are all solid, ie. have a good ground. In fact what I would suggest is that you try both of the following as a process of elimination: 1) re-install the stock bulbs and see if the problem persists (if it doesn't it would obviously be what was added...) 2) try a temporary fused line directly from the battery to power the ballasts (if you have don't see a problem, again it is what has been added). Your suggestion is a bit of work, but I think it's worth trying. And rechecking all connections in the process. The Box is in moth balls for winter, so I printed your sugs and will try in Spring. I was hoping I'd never have to pull those light units out again. No fun reinstalling!!! Thanks, Bob
  15. itzbob46
    clickman ----- You'll be impressed with the amount of light and the white color which also helps the seeing. Doing the highs would not be all that much more work, but the light pattern may be questionable as we don't seem to have feedback on that. The fogs, lows and highs all use the same stock halogen bulbs. But consider that highs are often used to flash signals and for very brief periods before having to dim lights again. The flashing of HIDs is not a particularily good idea from a wear and tear standpoint. Lows stay on when highs are used, so they don't flash on and off. Some (other model) cars with projector HID headlamps use a shield that just limits the lit area rather than having seperate highs and lose so intermitent use does not matter. Bob
  16. itzbob46
    Direct connection to the original headlight harness. This is a 2001 986 (non-S) with stock headlights. If gound was faulty, I doubt that headlights lights would work perfectly?????????? Thanks, Bob
  17. itzbob46
    Well Jim....that's a good theory. But the battery is about a year old. It's still could be weak...perhaps the charging system is faltering.... But remember that it does this at highway speeds when the alternator is pumping out amps, so I'm not sure. Winter is coming and parhaps I'll take your advice about testing it, so I'll know what's going on for spring. Thanks.
  18. itzbob46
    I installed the kit from CQ Light. Nice light. Work just fine............except...........when I turn on my headlights with the engine running my oil pressure and battery idiot light light up (sometimes just the oil pressure light), and I have to stop and restart the car. If I turn on the headlights before starting the car, all works as it should. I really don't think that this EVER happened before doing the HID mod. Just an annoyance. I'm sure that turning on my headlights is not droppong my oil pressure <_< . But I dont dare drive around with that light on. Mnnn. I wonder if it will come on if I really DO loose oil pressure. Any toughts on this weird problem???? Bob ps I like that LED parking light hack just posted. That original bulb sure is yellow.
  19. itzbob46
    Guys ~ Thanks a bunch for all the advice about battery maintainers. I checked all your links. Landed up buying with the Battery Tender Jr which some of you use and has many glowing reviews. $29 plus $7 for the cig adapter. By the way, I learned through researchine that the Black & Decker (or Vector) VEC080BD Smart Battery 6/4/2 Amp Battery Charger received 1 favorable reviews and 6 terrible reviews on the Amazon website. Main complaint is the the electronics appearently fail and the thing does not stop charging. Can result in a boiled out battery or worse. I'm not poking at anyone who owns or recommends this model. Just read the reviews and make your own decision. Another question.....most batt maintainers come with "ring" leads that can be used to permanently attach to the car battery so that you just need to plug in your maintainer. Has anyone tried that? Good connection? Would you recommend that method or just go with the cig leghter device. Idon't like the battery clip connection method except for quick charging or jump starting. Too easy to fall off. Thanks again for valuable opinions, Bob
  20. itzbob46
    I'm looking for a maintainer that can be plugged into the cig lighter (assuming that this is usually how it's done). I really don't want one that is severely overpriced because it says Porsche on it. After all, it's not like Porsche manufactures maintainers...they just have one private labled for them. But I do want quality....don't want to burn down my garage and Boxster to save a few bucks. I assume that 1 amp +/- is all it needs to survive the winter. I've been checking eBay, Amazon and others without success. What are you guys using???? Thanks, Bob
  21. itzbob46
    Hi Bob, Thanks for the feedback...I finally ordered the kit from CQ and am planning to install it next weekend. I do have a dremel and a decent amount of drills, etc. The 'bottleneck' for me resides on the skills side... :rolleyes: That said, do you have any detailled pictures of the install, covering specifically where the wires should be connected etc. I am thinking about securing the ballast with an industrial strength velcro to the back of the plastic cover rather than drilling. Additionally, do you recommend any particular sillicone sealant? Can I get it at a hardware store? Sorry for the many questions, but any help is greatly appreciated.... Gus :renntech: GANDRADE! ... No pics available. The instructions were adequate for the basic wiring and interconnection of components. Don't recommend the velcro or other adhesive product. Velcro is for removable items...this doesn't need to be. and yo dont 'want some hidden adhesive product failing where you can't see it and stuff bouncing around. DON'T be rushed. Lay it out and think it out...you'll do fine. The screws are the best route as a self tapping screw will be firm in the plastic. You have to cut a 1" hole anyway, so what's a few screw holes. The biggest pain is putting those darn lights back into your fenders!!!!! As for silicone, don't be fussy....any tube of silicone at the hardware store will do. Bob
  22. itzbob46
    That glass window top is great, but the original vinyl window top look pretty **** good too...... What happened to it and is it really as good as it looks. Mine's the same color (2001) so I can't help but be interested in it. Bob
  23. itzbob46
    Thanks for the last 2 pictures. I hadn't noticed the bars that you made in prior photos.
  24. itzbob46
    I looked up my original correspondence wiht Becker Auto Sound..... Is the BNA - 1319 - 116 the part needed to connect an MP3 player to a CR220? Bob Yes it is the kit. It comes with L and R female RCA inputs . You need to get male RCA to mini (3.5mm) plug adaptor. The kit is $17.00 Tom Mitchell (of Becker) Note...this kit will not power the iPod. But for $17 plus shipping, bring the iPod into the house to charge it up, or use an auto charger.
  25. itzbob46
    I can't recall all the details, but I purchased a wire adapter that plugged into the back of the radio and to the iPod that would work perfectly. I don't think that RCA were even needed. $20-30. I didn't use it and returned it because I have a CD changer and would have to unplug the changer to plug in the iPod adapter.........I felt the changer was more valuable to me. I have an adapter in my other car for the iPod and I dont' drive the Boxster as much. Go to Becker Auto Sound at www.beckerautosound.com. Here's a pdf that will assist you. http://www.beckerautosound.com/pdf_guides/...0directions.pdf Good luck.
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