itzbob46

Thanks, Guys. Well, 60 people looked at this post and didn't know what it could be! It hasn't done it again since, but one thing I know for sure......if it electrical/electronic and on a Porsche, it will eventually do something really wierd. I can make a list of weird occurances....Porche should hire a Japanese electrionics engineer!!!!!!!

Bob

nice match! azzaro. what was the temperature rating on your HID?

1 x H7 6000K Automobile HID Kit from CQLights

Are you experiencing any problems when the lights are turned on...such as idiot lights on your instrument panel coming on when hjeadlights are switched on??? I have the same kit. Trouble since day one.

Bob

Stopped in a parking lot ...... parking lights already on........switched on headlights and heard a rapid thumping sound in the tail end. Beats were 2-4 per second and loud enough th scare the heck out of me. It stopped when I turned the headlighs switch off. I then shut the car down and looked out back to see if the spoiler had done something funky. all looked normal and the spoiler operated manually as it should. I restarted, turned on the headlights and all was wel lagain.

Any ideas......? Sure sounds like the spoiler did something. What else is back there that could thump?? If that happened on the highway I'd be paniced.

Bob

I have found that TSB and added it here.

The TSB talks about reduced factory fill and a new dipstick.

Where is that TSB???

My car did some big puffs of blue oil smoke when starting over this weekend fo rthe FIRST time in 5000 mi that I've owned it. Was parked ona a monor incline, mostly front higher than rear.

Bob

Oli ~~

"just tried pulling each headlight out of its connector". What do you mean when you say this??? Do you mean leaving the HID setup in tact and just pulling the bulbs out?

Your car is a 2003 Carrera? Interesting that the problem is the same as with a 2001 Boxster.

Looking forward your experiment's results. In my car, once the lights have been on, I'd have to wait half of a day to do an experiment with original bulbs since the HIDs work fine without idiot lights coming on when they have been recently operated.

Bob

A few of you have cited the ignition switch as the reason that the oil pressure and alternator (batt) indicators are on, when there are not related problems.

I had recently installed an HID conversion and when I switch on my headlights the incicators come on, necessitating stopping and restarting to correct it. I blamed the HID kit, but it seems that I'm the only person that has had this problem after installing the HIDs, so now I'm wondering if it is really just the ignition switch after all. Perhaps the HIDs are drawing just a bit more starting amps and the falulty switch reacts somehow.

I am at a loss here. Changing the switch is perhaps a good idea anyway, since they are a weak item that will likely fail soon anyway. How much labor is involved to do this DIY job?

Bob

Hi Bob, did you ever resolve this? I have the same problem - installed HIDs and now usually (not always but more often than not) when I switch the lights on, the battery and oil warning lights come on - Quite annoying!

Glad to hear that I'm not alone!!! What vendor did you use for your HIDs. Are you certain that the hot and ground were properly identified and connected? I researched this carefully, but I still wonder if an error was made. Are there decent instructions for the HIDs that you used? I've written the vendor numerous times. They did not respond to my last inquiry. I think that they are meatball electric systems designers!!!

We have to solve this very annoying and odd problem.

Bob

Thanks for that info re buying the chrome loops. Sadly the tape think is not permanent, but it is easily replaced and cost nothing. From what secretagent214 says it's does not sound like loop adjustment was successful. I'll try it is desperate, but fornow I'll stick with the electrical tape trick.

ps Talk about QC problems....I found a screw or 2 loose on the speaker box as well. Once tightened, I really doubt they could loosen by themseves. And in the past I've read others say that they found this problem too.

Well, months have gone by waiting for Sears to deliver the triple square 8mm tool, and finally they gave up on their vendor and refunded me.

I then found a genuine Chinese 4 pc 12 point triple square set by Performance Tool, and waited to receive that.

But, the darn think still does not rattle with the little winding of electrical tape on the chrome latch loop!!! If I can replace a little piece of tape a few times per year to fix an annoying rattle, then I'm happy enough. I won't bother trying to adjust it as long as this quick fix works so well.

Bob

Tah My suggestion would be ordering a new H7 HID kit that will sit properly.

I've installed plenty of these but not sure if the factory nissan ballast is gonna be compatible with those after market bulbs?

Guess what, this is EXACTLY what I did yesterday. I didn't think I'd ever get an answer here and finally got a decent picture of both bulb bases. Didn't look like they would fit the same connectors so I ordered the CQ Lights 5000K complete kit.

Thanks for the advice anyway, sounds like the best idea. (especially since that's what I decided ;) )

Tah......Your new kit should come with capacitors in the line......I bought the same kit and it was missing the capacitors...they provided replacement harnesses at a later date. Note the problem that I'm having with the kit (see this entire thread).......perfect lighting, but usually my oil and batt idiot lights come on when the HIDs are turned on. Let me know how yours turns out.

Bob

I've had my CQLights kit in for about a month now and I never had these lights come on. What temperature are yours? Did they come with the slim ballast?

azzar0.

My kit was purchased around Oct '07. The current pic on the CQ website looks different and slimmer than mine (per my recall). I have written CQ to determine if there can be a relationship between the change of ballasts and the problem that I'm been having with the ones in my kit. My bulbs are 5000k, but I doubt that it could make a difference as I believe the difference between the bulbs is just coatings inside the glass. I appreciate the opinions and info in recent posts.

Bob

UPDATE --- no luck! CQ wrote back to say that the differences in the ballasts (silver or black) is merely cosmetic and that the specs for each are the same. So, this is not related to my problem of having batt. and oil pressure indicator warning lights come on whenever my headlamps are turned on. I'm tempted to undo the install of the HIDs (just as a temporary experiment to determine if the problem is truely related to the HIDs or just an electrical problem in my particular car.

I am very much interested in the shops in CT, btw.

www.automobileassociates.com in Canton, CT

www.musantemotorsports.com in South Windsor, CT

Bob

There are 2 P-car specialty race/performance/restoration shops in CT (Canton and South Windsor) if you are in the CT area. I'll dig up further info if interested.

I've had my CQLights kit in for about a month now and I never had these lights come on. What temperature are yours? Did they come with the slim ballast?

azzar0.

My kit was purchased around Oct '07. The current pic on the CQ website looks different and slimmer than mine (per my recall). I have written CQ to determine if there can be a relationship between the change of ballasts and the problem that I'm been having with the ones in my kit. My bulbs are 5000k, but I doubt that it could make a difference as I believe the difference between the bulbs is just coatings inside the glass. I appreciate the opinions and info in recent posts.

Bob

I've been following recent posts on the HID conversion. Mine was done over the winter using the CQLights kit, as others use. Since installing these my batt and oil pressure warning lights on the instrument cluster light when the headlights are turned on. Turning off the engine and restarting cures it. CQ is mystified and have not been able to help me. The question is if any of you have experienced anything similar?????

Thanks, Bob

Based on the numerous horror stories that have appeared on a recent thread on the 986 Forum, I have created a survey thread there asking Box owners who have suffered blown engines to post some details about their experience......especially what Porsche has done to accept responsibility for the engine failure and what recovery cost them. The link is at:

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?...8368#post148368

I imagine that this premature unavoidable engine failure problem is suffered by nearly all Porsches. If so, the details would still be appreciated in the linked survey, or perhaps a seperate survey can be conducted here for non-Boxsters.

Thanks for participating,

Bob

I think it's to keep the transmission from pushing the engine into the passenger compartment if you get rear ended.

A comforting thought!

What is that looped cable thing under the engine/transmission area. It looks like it's supposed to keep the trans dragging on the road if it happens to fall off, so you won't loose it!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

Considering that plastic canister I would not use anything that placed uneven pressure on the diameter such as the ones shown above, especially the strap type. The "B" cap wrench (I forget the brand) is more than adequate and a whole lot cheaper than the Porsche product.

Again considering the plastic canister, you should use a torque wrench. But don't do what I did!!!!!!!! Lying on my back with the long handle torque wrench over my head I failed to feel the wrench "click" at the setting and over-tightened it severely before realizing it. I had to loosen and retighten it, and the plastic can on the aluminum engine binds terribly tight and it takes much more to loosen it. I had to wrap the filter in duct tape to make it fatter so the "b" wrench would not skip/slip, then tap it onto the canister. It's a wonder I didn't ruin something in the process. All worked out in the end, but lessons were learned that I thought I'd share………although ashamed on my error.

Thanks Bob, that helped. I figure if I have to try this hard to convince myself that it looks good to me then I really don't like it. Mind you I didn't know when I got it that the pipes would interfere with putting diffusers on there.

I am going to sell this one and put the new Dansk on it instead.

Chris

Chris ~

Will you be doing the full Dansk system incl headers? In any event, please come back to this thread when you're done to describe sound and performance changes.

Bob

I have too much time on my hands today. I did a further retouch to convert this photo to just a twin pipe that is much like an S stock setup. It's all just a matter of opinion and taste. You probably shouldn't listen to us. Just look at the pics and apply your personal taste.

Bob

If they give you good performance (but you don't know what it felt like with the stock pipes) and/or great sound compared to stock Boxsters, then keep 'em. However, I don't think they are atrtractive.

I like to ask myself a question like "If this was a stock OEM system, and someone came along with a mod that looked the way that a stock Box exhaust actually looks, would everyone want to get it just because it was different?".

Personally I like the sleek unemcumbered look. However, I do like the duel pipe extension on the S which says "duel exhaust", which it actually is. The Box is probably the only car in the world that converts duels to single exhaust while every other car is taking a single pipe and spliting it to look like duel exhaust!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob

This is very much a DIY job. Porsche in their wisdom for making weekend racers made very easy brakes to R&R. You may have the original pads and the Boxster has wear indicators, which are little switches that will trigger the brake pad warning light on your dash when they become low. I changed my pads/rotors when I bought mine used and the sensors had not triggered the light yet.

You most likely have the "chatter" associated with the pads not having the seize/chatter grease on the back plates or they may be dry from age.

You need to determine the condition of the rotors & pads and figure out if it's worth to reapply the grease or simply replace pads (and/or rotors) which also requires the grease.

Sounds like brake pad chatter 101. some get it going forward, some backwards but it usually goes away with an increase in pedal pressure.

rsfeller, I think that you are right on about this. I forgot how annoying brake squeal can be as I've had it on other cars but only in reverse. It's really not too bad and I'll put up with it for a while until I change the brakes (maybe in the Fall before hibernation), and be sure to be attentive to the grease,, etc to eliminate the problem. I was just concerned that my rotors may be at risk. I really don't want to buy new ones when it's pad changing time.

Thanks, Bob

I had this exact same rattle; I applied some Krytox to the chrome loop (is it the latch, striker, or ??) and it has taken care of it for the time being. Bob, please let us know how you move the loop...up, down, in? Thanks, --Brian

Will do, Brian....

So far the electrical tape wound around it works very well. Still waiting for shipping on the tool needed to move the chrome thing.

What's Krytox?

Bob

When I lightly place my foot on the brakes I hear some brake squeal. Harder foot pressure stops it. Quiet when coasting.

The Boxster has 32K on it and I purchased it at 28K, so I'm assuming the pads are original. I inspected them when the wheels were off, but since I don't know how thick new pads are, this can be misleading. This would appear too soon to replace brakes. Car was never raced to my knowledge.

Is this a normal brake squeal condtion or wear indicators sounding off??? I'd rather change pads early before rotors are damaged and save a unnecessary expense. Would be a DIY job.

Thanks, Bob

I have this same set shown here...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=81630

You eBay or Google for "VIM Tools 8 Piece XZN Triple Square Metric 3/8" Drive"

Loren......

Can you tell me if those drivers are measured from point to point (largest diameter). I'd rather not buy a set, and singles can be purchased. But I need to be able to measure the chrome loop's fasteners and correspond this to the proper size needed. Unless you can tell me which size is used on the 986's chrome loop.

Also, thanks for the info above....all I needed was the proper name for the things and they were easy to find.

Bob