itzbob46

How many 986 owners that have done this retrofit have had electrical issues afterwards? I have daytime running lights in my 01 986. I thought the 987 had the most problems with daytime running lights.

Secondly, I understand most people are doing the retrofit on the low beams. What happens when you use the highs and then go back to the lows? Is there a pause with no light while the xenons re-ignite? If so, how long does it take?

thx Norm

2001 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey

Norm,

Your lows stay ON when you switch to high beams, hence the problem that you envision does not occur.

Bob

I ordered bulb retainer rings for the H7's so I can try the xenon bulbs and still go back to H7's if I need t o.

Tim

What's a bulb retainer ring????

I fixed my problem by ordering a resistor wiring harness from the folks I bought the kit from. I just installed it this weekend and no more issues.

Bob,

Now that I think about it... you may be right. When you turn on florescent lights the ballast has an extra draw until they warm up and are fully bright, much like starting an electric motor with it's draw as it spool up. That said, if the lights are on and the draw is taken prior to the engine start up diagnostics, the start up ballast draw is gone before the diagnostics and therefore the electrical system looks normal. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Gary

Jaycenb .... Thanks for that piece of info. Right now I'm corresponding with the vendor and they are asking me if there is a capacitor in the harness with the fused line. I don't yet know and have asked them what it looks like before pulling it apart. They did not say if the capacitor should or shouldn't be there!!!

WHO did you buy the kit from??

Gary .... I have a feeling that your theory is correct, but of course that does not lead me to a solution. But thanks for the thought.

Bob

My stock H7's fit into a socket that slides into the headlight assembly and turns to lock (three tabs that slide into corresponding grooves on the assembly) tightly to the assembly. The stock connector has two wires (yellow and brown) going to it.I can't figure out how to get the HID bulb to snug up. Nothing seems to fit.

TIm - Unequipped for DIY mods

What you describe is much like many american cars and completely different than the Boxster. Since the back end of the HID and the H7 Halogen bulbs are so similar, I'm surprised that it does not fit. I'd contact the vendor and see if there is an alternative bulb. Perhaps what you received is not the correct replacement.

"friction and turn fits into the headlight"....??? Can you explain this a little further. Can't get a mental pic of this. Re wire colors, I have some Porsche Box wiring diagrams and traced the grounds color since I had the same problem as you are facing. I think that your color guess is right, but on the other hand, this if this is an error, it could be my idiot light gproblem!

I've been considering buying the kit from Eday also. I've got a 99, 996 C2. Has anyone installed this kit on a 99, 996 C2 and gotten this same problem? Does anyone know how close the electrical systems are in the 986 2001 vs 996 1999?

itzbob46's theory doesn't make sense to me. If just having this ballast in the system creates enough draw to make the start-up diagnostics think something is wrong then turning the lights on would make that error even worse, wouldn't it? And if there's that much draw and your in cold weather or any other reason you may need a few extra amps to turn it over or your battery is not 100%, then this could be a problem?

Thoughts? I am very interested in this one because my headlights are yellow and dim and I don't want to spend $3K for Xenon.

Thanks,

Gary

Gary .... I doesn't make much sense to me either, and I wrote it. Just don't know what else it could be. These lights are supposed to use substantily less power to operate than the Halogens, but I think the draw is greater when they start (ignite), sort of like starting a motor.

Bob (itzbob46)

Search for "HID Retrofit lights in Stock Halogen housings" on this forum. That's the original thread. I chime in with the idiot light problem on page 5.

The purchasing website was http://www.cqlight.ca/index.php?cPath=32_45 . Brightstar HID is the only name on the instructions.

I wrote them the following today :

"More that one of us (owners of 2001 Porsche Boxsters) are writing to RennTech.org Forums describing a problem with our installed systems. When we switch on the headlights while the car is running the oil pressure and batt idiot lights come on together. If the car is shut off and restarted with the lights left on the idiot lights go off and all is well. Major annoyance. Can you help???"

I'll report any answers here.

Bob

I just installed my new HID conversion kit and it looks outstanding! Now I am having some electrical issues. My oil and battery light come on, has anyone else had this problem? Please help, it's driving me nuts :)

Thanks,

That was me who created another thread on the exact issue. My Oil and Batt lights come on together when the headlights are turned on. I then stop the car, and restart it and the problem is gone.

People have suggested that the problem is a faulty ground, but I doubt it. The headlights perform beautifully but this problem goes on and is annoying. Mine is ALSO a 2001. It is a direct hookup to the plug that connects to the original halogen low beam bulb as I recall. No rocket science. Wiring goes from ballast to igniter to bulb as instructed. I believe that there was some question re polarity, but I worked it out. I don't want to tamper with this thing again without a strong reasoning as to what could be wrong. Sounds to me like the HID system makes a heavy demand on the electrical system when swithed on, tricking the charging circuits sensors to think the battery is failing. Likely doesn't mean anything bad but is just an annoyance. I'll bet that if the lights are turned on before starting the engine that all will be well. My car is in mothballs for the winter so I can't experiment too extensively.

The kit is called Brightstar. I'll search out the original thread and write again really soon.

Bob

The car is now garaged for the winter and I finally got around to disassembling it. There is a plastic "locator" on the front of the radiator molded into the plastic end cap of the radiator that is attached to a body bracket. Appears that the previous owner somehow pounded the bottom of the plastic bumper (some kind of curb thing without scraping up the underside of the nose much) which shoved the radiator upward and the locator was stressed badly, causing a crack in the radiator end cap. Because of the plastic bushing that the locator goes through, and the horizontal lengthing of the radiator as it heats pushing it tightly against the the bracket, the leakage was minimal as the car got to full operating temp. Also shattered the bottom of the air scoop out of sight from outside the car.

Radiator = $235. Scoop = $105. Time for a coolant change. As a DIY project, it's not too bad. And a good chance to clean out the radiator road debris.

Thanks, Bob

Are there different cables that control gear selection (vertical travel) vs. horizontal travel?

This does remind me when we've replaced throttle cables or transmission cables on my boat, how they bind slightly before they freeze up...but again everything travels in the North/South direction perfectly!

I'll take a look at cable entry locations this weekend.

Shawn ~

One cable does the shifting and the other tells the trans which gears to shift when the lever goes "north-south" (1-2) or (3-4), etc. So, that second cable that is commanded when the shifter moves side to side may be the culprit as well. Could be something other than those bushings such as cable "rot" or binding/rubbing like refered to by Toolpants. If you open the console up like in the early steps of the B&M instructions you can detach that cable easily and see if the shift lever moves side to side with ease in order to narrow it down to the "culprit". Hope it's the shifter....no fun fooling around under the car or replacing cables. Let us know what you find.

Bob,

Let me know of any great links that explain the area well. My brain is a bit overloaded with a Vanagon Syncro with blown brake lines and a Saab wagon with a dead fuel pump. My ability to goggle is severely diminished!

I really feel like this is a bad grease issue, as it came about after the car sat for 2 month in a 20F garage.

Other then the obvious what are the benifits of the short throw shifters? I've never felt the shifting took a stretch or missed shifts in the 986, is it pretty amazing how close shift points are with such a kit? I've always been curious.

Now in my vanagon I can see the benifit. 1 & 2 are seperated by about 6 inches of real estate!

Shawn

Shawn ....

I don't have a short throw retrofit, but have studied them. You'll find that the B&M seems to be the most popular. I took another route. I pulled out the stock shifter and cut 7/8" off the top of the steel shift lever. It's at a much more comfortable height now, and that automaticly shortens the throw as well (somewhat). The stock shifter isn't great, but I'm not racing and I don't know what "great" feels like. To remove the bushings on the stock shifter you many have to cut them out. I advise another post to ask members who have taken these things apart. See steps 23-25 on the B&M instructions that you already have.....I'm not sure if they can be reinserted once removed or not. Many of these members have done it, so answers are available.

Good Luck.

Bob

I believe that I understand what you are describing. Look at any photo of a shifter (any brand) and you will see that there is a front and rear bushing that poivots the lever right and left. Yours must be bound up or dry. Probably needs some grease in those bushings. (and scrape out squirrel remains...lol) Maybe a good time to put in a short throw shifter!

There are good instarctions available in forums for changing the shifter that will help you get to that point. Write again if can't find.

Bob

Where did you take the power for the lights from?

Did you just connect it to the stock wiring?

This sounds like it could be a poor ground.

BTW, the type of Boxster would be helpful too...

Direct connection to the original headlight harness. This is a 2001 986 (non-S) with stock headlights. If gound was faulty, I doubt that headlights lights would work perfectly??????????

Thanks, Bob

The question about the ground was to indicate that you should ensure that your new connections are all solid, ie. have a good ground. In fact what I would suggest is that you try both of the following as a process of elimination:

1) re-install the stock bulbs and see if the problem persists (if it doesn't it would obviously be what was added...)

2) try a temporary fused line directly from the battery to power the ballasts (if you have don't see a problem, again it is what has been added).

Your suggestion is a bit of work, but I think it's worth trying. And rechecking all connections in the process. The Box is in moth balls for winter, so I printed your sugs and will try in Spring. I was hoping I'd never have to pull those light units out again. No fun reinstalling!!!

Thanks, Bob

clickman ----- You'll be impressed with the amount of light and the white color which also helps the seeing. Doing the highs would not be all that much more work, but the light pattern may be questionable as we don't seem to have feedback on that. The fogs, lows and highs all use the same stock halogen bulbs.

But consider that highs are often used to flash signals and for very brief periods before having to dim lights again. The flashing of HIDs is not a particularily good idea from a wear and tear standpoint. Lows stay on when highs are used, so they don't flash on and off. Some (other model) cars with projector HID headlamps use a shield that just limits the lit area rather than having seperate highs and lose so intermitent use does not matter.

Bob

Where did you take the power for the lights from?

Did you just connect it to the stock wiring?

This sounds like it could be a poor ground.

BTW, the type of Boxster would be helpful too...

Direct connection to the original headlight harness. This is a 2001 986 (non-S) with stock headlights. If gound was faulty, I doubt that headlights lights would work perfectly??????????

Thanks, Bob

I'm gonna bet that the battery in your car is going dead. When the HID ignites it uses about 30amp for a few seconds to spark the bulb. In that short time frame there is a huge draw on the battery, so if your battery is dead its gonna cause some lights to come on just the same as if the car had stalled.

Take your battery into a car repair place and have it load tested. I'm willing to bet it's on it's way out.

Well Jim....that's a good theory. But the battery is about a year old. It's still could be weak...perhaps the charging system is faltering....

But remember that it does this at highway speeds when the alternator is pumping out amps, so I'm not sure. Winter is coming and parhaps I'll take your advice about testing it, so I'll know what's going on for spring.

Thanks.

I installed the kit from CQ Light. Nice light. Work just fine............except...........when I turn on my headlights with the engine running my oil pressure and battery idiot light light up (sometimes just the oil pressure light), and I have to stop and restart the car. If I turn on the headlights before starting the car, all works as it should.

I really don't think that this EVER happened before doing the HID mod. Just an annoyance. I'm sure that turning on my headlights is not droppong my oil pressure <_< . But I dont dare drive around with that light on. Mnnn. I wonder if it will come on if I really DO loose oil pressure.

Any toughts on this weird problem????

Bob

ps I like that LED parking light hack just posted. That original bulb sure is yellow.

Guys ~

Thanks a bunch for all the advice about battery maintainers. I checked all your links. Landed up buying with the Battery Tender Jr which some of you use and has many glowing reviews. $29 plus $7 for the cig adapter.

By the way, I learned through researchine that the Black & Decker (or Vector) VEC080BD Smart Battery 6/4/2 Amp Battery Charger received 1 favorable reviews and 6 terrible reviews on the Amazon website. Main complaint is the the electronics appearently fail and the thing does not stop charging. Can result in a boiled out battery or worse. I'm not poking at anyone who owns or recommends this model. Just read the reviews and make your own decision.

Another question.....most batt maintainers come with "ring" leads that can be used to permanently attach to the car battery so that you just need to plug in your maintainer. Has anyone tried that? Good connection? Would you recommend that method or just go with the cig leghter device. Idon't like the battery clip connection method except for quick charging or jump starting. Too easy to fall off.

Thanks again for valuable opinions,

Bob

I'm looking for a maintainer that can be plugged into the cig lighter (assuming that this is usually how it's done). I really don't want one that is severely overpriced because it says Porsche on it. After all, it's not like Porsche manufactures maintainers...they just have one private labled for them. But I do want quality....don't want to burn down my garage and Boxster to save a few bucks.

I assume that 1 amp +/- is all it needs to survive the winter. I've been checking eBay, Amazon and others without success. What are you guys using????

Thanks, Bob

First, for GANDRADE1, it's logical. You need a 1" hole for the big rubber grommet. And I'd advise a little silicone sealant for where the cable passes through. The ballast, with the other electronic dohicky electrical taped to it's back, can be screwed to the back of the removable cover. A few cable ties and you're in. Toughest part is getting the lamp units back in!! Don't plan on finishing too quick unless you have a fair amounts of tools such as files, dremel, assortment of screws and drills.

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the feedback...I finally ordered the kit from CQ and am planning to install it next weekend.

I do have a dremel and a decent amount of drills, etc. The 'bottleneck' for me resides on the skills side... :rolleyes:

That said, do you have any detailled pictures of the install, covering specifically where the wires should be connected etc. I am thinking about securing the ballast with an industrial strength velcro to the back of the plastic cover rather than drilling. Additionally, do you recommend any particular sillicone sealant? Can I get it at a hardware store?

Sorry for the many questions, but any help is greatly appreciated....

Gus

:renntech:

GANDRADE! ... No pics available. The instructions were adequate for the basic wiring and interconnection of components. Don't recommend the velcro or other adhesive product. Velcro is for removable items...this doesn't need to be. and yo dont 'want some hidden adhesive product failing where you can't see it and stuff bouncing around. DON'T be rushed. Lay it out and think it out...you'll do fine. The screws are the best route as a self tapping screw will be firm in the plastic. You have to cut a 1" hole anyway, so what's a few screw holes. The biggest pain is putting those darn lights back into your fenders!!!!!

As for silicone, don't be fussy....any tube of silicone at the hardware store will do.

Bob

These are before and after pictures from Steve Evans.

Justin on the UK Boxster board had the glass top put on yesterday. Here are his pictures. He has a 2000 2.7.

That glass window top is great, but the original vinyl window top look pretty **** good too...... What happened to it and is it really as good as it looks. Mine's the same color (2001) so I can't help but be interested in it.

Bob

Thanks for the last 2 pictures. I hadn't noticed the bars that you made in prior photos.

I looked up my original correspondence wiht Becker Auto Sound.....

Is the BNA - 1319 - 116 the part needed to connect an MP3 player to a CR220?

Bob

Yes it is the kit. It comes with L and R female RCA inputs . You need to get male RCA to mini (3.5mm) plug adaptor.

The kit is $17.00

Tom Mitchell (of Becker)

Note...this kit will not power the iPod. But for $17 plus shipping, bring the iPod into the house to charge it up, or use an auto charger.

I can't recall all the details, but I purchased a wire adapter that plugged into the back of the radio and to the iPod that would work perfectly. I don't think that RCA were even needed. $20-30. I didn't use it and returned it because I have a CD changer and would have to unplug the changer to plug in the iPod adapter.........I felt the changer was more valuable to me. I have an adapter in my other car for the iPod and I dont' drive the Boxster as much.

Go to Becker Auto Sound at www.beckerautosound.com. Here's a pdf that will assist you. http://www.beckerautosound.com/pdf_guides/...0directions.pdf

Good luck.

I was watching that topic for some time. I even add my $0.02, so I hope I won't upset a lot of people here with my comment.

How come you like those aftermarket kits. First of all you have to drill holes to make it work or use zip ties. So right now your lights are attached to body with cable. Aftermarket bulbs got a lot of glare, different color and are much dimmer than stock ones(if above 5000K).

I'm not saying that my solution (look at the beginning of the thread) is perfect. After this mode I change my lights to litronics like a lot of people. But if you are handy just a little bit you can get original ballast and bulbs really cheap on ebay (use nissan, bimmer, audi, etc.). Then spend 2 hours modifying rear cover and DONE. Sealed, almost like litronics headlight - no cables, no ties, duct tape or anything else.

First, for GANDRADE1, it's logical. You need a 1" hole for the big rubber grommet. And I'd advise a little silicone sealant for where the cable passes through. The ballast, with the other electronic dohicky electrical taped to it's back, can be screwed to the back of the removable cover. A few cable ties and you're in. Toughest part is getting the lamp units back in!! Don't plan on finishing too quick unless you have a fair amounts of tools such as files, dremel, assortment of screws and drills.

For niebyl2002, there's really not much diff between your solution and the method that you are putting down. You have to cut a MUCH larger hole, all of your wiring is on the inside rather than the outside. If the ballast is mounted on the plastic cover, and cables are tied down neatly, there's no need to mount anything on the car body. Yours looks cleaner, mine's $170 and looks/works really good. 5000K bulbs are perfect.

Bob