TD in DC

I'm sorry to dig up an old thread, but I just wanted to thank Lorne and Renntech. I don't come here very often, but when I do, I always find the answers to my questions. :renntech:

No, I shifted with the clutch but we did also drive rear-wheel cars in that slop and I can assure you that LFB works well with RWD also. It is one of those things that I was very skeptical about it until I had a chance to see it in action and try it for myself. I also swear that you could use it a ton on the track . . . I will start implementing it very, very slowly. I don't want to hit the clutch when I am going for the brake, or the brake when I am going for the clutch, which I did occasionally in the mud. That could be a disaster on the track. I am going to Shenandoah Circuit this weekend, which should be a perfect place to play around with it. There are several places where you have to modulate the throttle to deal with understeer. I plan to try to stay on the throttle and try to modulate with LFB instead. We shall see . . .

I was afraid of that. I don't want to mess with the brake pedal, because it is perfect for heel/toeing right now. Oh well . . . I tried. As always, I appreciate the answer Loren. Hi TD, Presumably you've verified that the car will let you left foot brake. My 02 with PSM won't let you. It may be that all 02s won't let you with the e-throttle. more than just a little brake pressure cuts the throttle entirely. When I rallied, left foot braking was mostly for FWD cars, and there weren't any 4WD rally cars. Which of the varied benefits of LFB were you aiming or in your 911? Michael Paton :clapping: Very insightful Michael. I now own a dedicated race car so I do not track the 996 anymore. However, I do try to drive my cars on the street the way I want to drive on the track (e.g., heel/toeing, rev matching, inputs etc . . .) because I don't want to commit any bad habits to muscle memory. I think that left foot braking has a lot of benefit on the track even for RWD cars, and particularly for low HP momentum cars like my race car. I am positive you are correct that PSM would not allow me to do much effective LFB on the track in the 996. However, I can use LFB in normal slowing conditions like you find in the street, which is what I try to do in the 996 and all of the cars I drive. Then, when I go back to the track in the car that does not have PSM, I will be better prepared. I think LFB will be most helpful in those turns where I really do not need to slow down too much but rather I need to settle the car . . . TD

I was afraid of that. I don't want to mess with the brake pedal, because it is perfect for heel/toeing right now. Oh well . . . I tried. As always, I appreciate the answer Loren.

I just returned from a three day rally school with Team O'Neal in NH. It was great, and we learned how to left foot brake. I have been trying to practice in my '02 996, but I find that the clutch pedal is too high, which makes it difficult to transition my left foot between the clutch pedal and the brake pedal. Is it possible to lower the height of the clutch pedal so that it is closer to the level of the brake pedal (when not pushed in)? Thanks!

0586slb You are joking around, right? Of course I am not worried about temperature in the luggage compartment! However, I, like many of those who frequent this board, actually track our cars and thus fluid boil can be a real possibility. Why else spend the extra $$$ for SRF? Also, with a modern ABS system like that on our cars, there is an amount of fluid that is trapped in the system, and which will not come out with a normal bleeding of the brakes. It is more than a few drops. Is this reason to panic? No. Does this mean bleeding the brakes without activating the ABS is worthless? Absolutely not. However, when a dealer flushes your system, he or she DOES activate the PSM using Porsche electronics, which I do not have. I have been told that you can do it yourself at home, and I am trying to figure out if there is a safe way to do so. I will report back when I learn more.

I have PSM. Can you please provide the diagram and explain how I can both get to the relay and "jump" the appropriate pins? As always, I appreciate your help Loren. TD

OK, I remember the rumor. :lightbulb: Supposedly you can jump pins on the ABS relay. In order to know which pins to jump, you need to check out the wiring diagram. Can anyone illuminate this topic a little further? Thanks, TD

I know you can do it with the PST2 or PIWIS tester, but I have heard numerous times that there is another very easy way to do it without any special testers or Porsche equipment. I cannot believe I forgot the specifics of the rumor.

Hello All: I use Castrol SRF brake fluid, and I regularly bleed/flush my brakes to maintain optimum performance. I understand that a significant amount of fluid can remain trapped in the system due to the ABS system. This is undesireable since having a mixture of cheaper fluid with a lower boiling point pretty much negates the benefits of paying for such an expensive brake fluid like Castrol SRF. I have heard that you can manually trigger the ABS system while flushing the brake fluid in order to get a complete flush. Is this true? If so, how do you do that? Thanks, TD in DC

I am not boiling my fluid, and I am actually pretty easy on my brakes (from a comparative standpoint). In fact, I am not sure that I would recognize boiled brake fluid when it happened since my brakes have performed fine. What are signs that you are having a problem? Do the brakes start to fade progressively or suddenly? What happens?

Hello All: I have two questions regarding Brakes and brake bleeding: I have an '02 996 Targa that I use regularly for DEs. I use Castrol SRF Brake Fluid (and yes, it is pricy) and stock brake pads. I also have a Motive bleeder and have read the great bleeding DIY article on this forum. Thanks Loren First Question: I have been told that you should be able to use the SRF Brake fluid for an entire DE season without any worries. I have also been told, however, that you can simply bleed the calipers to remove old fluid (rather than the entire system) to keep your brakes at an optimum level since the fluid in the calipers goes bad faster than the rest. Is this true? Second Question: The last time I bled my brakes (I was receiving help from a very experienced Porsche tech guy), I put an air bubble in the system. What a PIA, and dangerous. We did nothing that was obviously wrong, and I still don't know how it happened. My question is about what common newbie errors you can make when bleeding the brakes? In other words, can someone make a top ten list of errors and how to avoid them. Assume I both (1) know nothing and (2) am an idiot. In other words, I will not be insulted by very basic explanations. Thanks! TD in DC

Loren, I have been told that the 996 505 555 01 front lip spoiler only fits 8/01 and newer cars (after the front bumper update), and that it is a relatively short lip spoiler (approximately 2 to 2 1/2 feet long). I will post a picture as soon as I receive mine. TD in DC

Holy Self Promotion competition. I have the B&M shifter new that I will sell for $175.

Thanks much!