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5'9" and I would agree, any taller and it would be difficult... Being 6' in a Boxster in general is a bit tough... Luckily I don't have that issue.. I am pretty comfortable, as have been my passengers so far... But if I were any taller I probably would not have been able to put the subs back there... I am glad I did though, the experience is unique, Kind of 3D as you get both sound for the ears and vibration for the body...
I was in my friends brand new Boxster with the top of the line Bose system with a sub in it... I must tell you, I have trying to get a better sound, but my system made the Bose sound in the new Bosxter sound like a tin can, something out of a little hand held radio. After that experience, I have a new found appreciation for what I put in my car. The mids and highs are crisp and clear and the bass is as precise and massive as you wish to stand. Thanks to everyone that gave me input so that I could make this system sound as good as it does... Bob
I was recently at a Watkins Glen DE. Car ran fine, no issues. When I got home I began to see some small drops on my rear passenger side about 1 foot in from the rear wheel. Just curious about where it may be leaking from? Is this normal for this year Boxster? Is it something that I need to fix right away? Estimated extent of repair? (Can it be done without removing anything? Transmission, etc?) Has anyone seen this on their car and what did it take to fix? Not so much worried about the cost as much as I am on whether I should react to this with any degree of urgency... Any help would be appreciated. Bob PS - sorry, topic should say 2000 boxster, not 200, I suppose if they made them back then the car would be quite old and run down by now... off to the chariot races...
You know, honestly... Today just for grins, I turned the stereo on and put on a song with some good bass in it... I was standing outside the car with the seat forward... I held the cabinet very tightly against the firewall and referenced the sound... I then took the cabinet and moved it away from the firewall so the back was open.... What was interesting was that there was no audible degradation of the bass at all from one position to the other... Makes me wonder if I need to lock things down at all..... Hmmmm, wonder how I can simulate a closed enclosure and compare... Might have to make me up a square stand alone box just to test things.... BTW - These pioneer premier subs are really nice....
Thanks for your input... As for the front speakers, I have components in there. It was an easy thing to change over. The original Porsche speakers don't come close to giving the quality of sound. I will check on the subs per your question. They sound pretty awesome right now and everyone can't believe the sound and power that comes out of the system. I just personally know it can be better so I am trying to get every last ounce of energy I can out of them.
Thanks for the input. I appreciate it. As for why driving the front speakers with the head unit... I actually tried both ways, and frankly, the front speakers just didn't need the external amp. The pioneer head unit sounds great to begin with and has plenty of power to drive the front speakers. The front speakers have always sounded great. This of course wasn't the case for the rears... There are 2 on each side, and getting good sound out of them was next to impossible with the head unit... Having that extra power from the amp made them totally come alive. As for biasing the rears, I am not doing that at all, the balance in the car is perfect. You can't tell where the sound is coming from, because it is perfectly all around you... Doing it the way I did allows me to control the front speaker eq and frequency cut off points separately from the base and the rears... So I am actually able to tune each speaker for the frequency range each speaker type excels in... As for closing the back of the enclosure. Why is that different than just locking it down and using the back firewall as the rear wall of the enclosure? Doesn't that yield the same effect? I am not sure I understand. Thanks again for taking the time to read the thread and responding...
I took your diagram and enhanced it a bit... You can get an idea of the back contour, seat location, and sub with tilted back to keep weight back. You can see if you move seat slightly back it actually presses the enclosure to the back firewall for a temporary fix until it is held down some other way.
By the way, nice job on that pseudo drawing of yours... I forgot about giving you the tip on how to avoid tipping (no pun intended)... Easy, read my note above... Angle the front face where you mount the sub... The weight will keep the box toward the back firewall... The bigger the angle the more shifting of the center of gravity toward the back... In fact, technically, the more you angle it, the more depth you would have for a thicker sub...
The enclosures are the width of the back (door to center console) so they do not shift side to side. Also, they do fit flat on the floor (thanks to the coat hanger trick). Since the back fire wall is not just an angled flat plane (it is quite an odd shape), it would be difficult to easily seal the back of the cabinet, that is why I left them open in the back. Because of the coat hanger trick also, and the fact that I angled the front of the cabinet a bit, the weight of the sub actually forces the cabinet to the back wall, so I do not have any issue with tipping at all. I like your idea of the bottom bracket. Is there any issue with bolting to the floor??? Also, if I could get velcro to stick to the carpet, I would prefer that to any other option.... If I sell the car, I would probably take those out and replace the stock radio... Right now the way I set everything up (head unit, amp, subs) I can change everything back to original in less than an hour... That is a huge plus... What happens with the sub is that as it pushes air inside the cabinet, the cabinet may actually push forward a bit, losing some of the energy... I want to make sure I utilize as much of that energy as I can... That is the only reason I want to lock it down somehow... One thing I can do also is simply move the seat back far enough so that it touches the cabinet and keep it there (This way, the seat becomes the securing mechanism).. While I could easily do that on the driver side since I am the only one that drives it, however, the passenger side is person dependant as people always move the seat forward and back... Do you have a brand and number for a velcro that will attach to the carpet???
Hey guys, you seem to be asking me more questions than trying to address my initial question of screwing into the firewall... Can anyone help me? I am happy to answer anyone else's questions also along the way yet I do need some input on my original issue... Ok, how does it sound? I am driving it with a pioneer premier headunit that has rca outs for front, rear, and subs that go to my amp. The voltage out is very good from this unit compared to others such as alpine, etc. I have an ipod connection with it and the subwoofer, eq, frequency cut off (high and low pass) controls, and gain controls from the head unit are superior to other brands... The amp is a 4 channel 1500 watt premier amp.... I have the rear speaker mod in it and replaced the 3.5" speakers that came with it (2 on each side), with 3.5" kickers (huge improvement). Since the front speakers already had a lot of gain and sounded good, I decided to drive the front speakers with the head unit (50 watts), then I have the rear speakers on 2 channels of the amp, and the 2 subs on the other 2 channels.... The sound is awesome! With top down and on the highway, I get full spectrum all around me along with great bass vibration on the seats. If I turned things up enough I would not be able to hear the sirens of a police car if I were on the highway, top down, and it drove past me.... The issue with the bass and why I want to lock them down is that I get the low, low response and the vibration to the seat, however, what is missing is the smoother/longer lasting bass sounds that you would get if it were constrained. The kick occurs (probably 60% of what it could be) but then the resonance dies... This would not occur if the cabinet were locked in and not resonating at the same rate as the speaker... I do have the high and low pass settings set correctly, so I know this is not an issue. I currently compensate for the loss by boosting gain on the amp a bit for the subs and overcompensating the eq a bit... The sound right now is awesome... I am a big sound person and work a lot in the studio recording, so I just would like it that much better.
No, they are not sealed, they are open in the back.. I didn't have additional space (I had to balance the needed volume for the sub and the space between the seat and the firewall). I agree, if I could seal the back, then I wouldn't have to worry about it... Sealing the back is also tricky because it is a very odd shape.
Ok, I took some photographs... I lined the enclosures with the closest color I could find. I will eventually replace it if I find something better, but for now, they are fine. The outer material I found at a fabric store, it is not carpeting which I thought would be too thick and hard to work with. The material is a plush velvety material (not shag). Hope these help.. I showed one side, but the other is essentially the same.