Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Wret

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder

Wret's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. I taped over the relay pin as has been suggested elsewhere. Leaving the e-brake unhacked requires engagement of the brake at lease one click but retains a modicum of safety.
  2. I replaced an outer boot, which was easy to get at. The secret to the clamp? Three hands. One to hold the band and boot in place, one to apply tension, and one to bend and lock it. Two will do, it just takes longer. I did cut the old boot to "sleeve" the hub end as recommended, but it wasn't quite enough, therefore the silicone tape. If you look for it at a hardware store it will likely be sold under the brand name "Tommy Tape". Ron
  3. I bought one recently from a guy selling them on ebay. His email address is thecvman@comcast.net. I didn't buy from ebay but contacted him directly. Turns out he was fairly local to me in Maryland. He sent me a PDF spec sheet of about 20 split boots that he sells. He didn't have one listed for a Boxster. His boots fasten with tiny screws. I can't give a long term evaluation but it's still fine after a month. I believe I chose the smallest one he had and the hub side was still a bit large. I wrapped the hub with self-fusing silicone tape first to take up a little room. It took about 30 minutes or so to install, most of the time was spent trying to pull the band clamps tight. Wret - Thanks for the info. Remember a part number for the boot? I'll contact "thecvman" to see what he has available. "thecvman" thinks that it is a 86-2865 because "I do show that most people that have purchased these for a Porsche have used the part number". Any way to check to see if that was the one you used? I have included his .pdf file of boots. Alan I believe it was the 86-2865. I haven't used split boots before but "thecvman" claims these are superior to the glued boots which separate. "thegluedcvbootman" probably makes similar claims about boots with screws. I was a little concerned that the grease would find it's way out of the seam but so far it hasn't.
  4. I bought one recently from a guy selling them on ebay. His email address is thecvman@comcast.net. I didn't buy from ebay but contacted him directly. Turns out he was fairly local to me in Maryland. He sent me a PDF spec sheet of about 20 split boots that he sells. He didn't have one listed for a Boxster. His boots fasten with tiny screws. I can't give a long term evaluation but it's still fine after a month. I believe I chose the smallest one he had and the hub side was still a bit large. I wrapped the hub with self-fusing silicone tape first to take up a little room. It took about 30 minutes or so to install, most of the time was spent trying to pull the band clamps tight.
  5. What is the thickness of the stainless outer shell? --Brian It's a double layer of sheet metal, each about a millimeter thick.
  6. I had to replace my muffler due to an annoying rattle after warm-up. I was curious about what might be rattling so I cut it apart to see what’s inside. I was also curious if there were any easy ways to improve sound, preferably reversible or adjustable. Here’s what’s inside: If you cant tell from the picture, here’s what goes on in there: Exhaust gasses enter through the inlets and get strained, buffered and baffled inside the center three sections, and eventually migrate to the outer sections to where the outlet pipes are routed. I can see that it would be quite easy to drill some bypass holes near the outer ends of the inlet pipes but making it reversible or adjustable would be complicated.
  7. The Zeintec looks great but seems like a lot of work and expense for something that I probablly can't wait to get rid of each spring. The factory bubble is easy enough to remove so I could pop it off on the occasional warm day in December.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.