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carreraaficionado

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  • Content Count

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About carreraaficionado

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    keithericparsons77@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Grantsboro, NC USA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    99 porsche 911 carrera cabriolet
  • Future cars
    ?
  • Former cars
    1981 delorean, 1985 porsche 911 carrera cabriolet, 1991 porsche 911 targa, 2000 bmw 323i
  1. bischoff on the left, gillets on the right
  2. I have a 1995 993 with a heating question. Since i have owned this car, i have never really had the best heat in the winter driving months. I purchased an OBD Porsche test tool that turns on the fans, opens flaps, etc... this tool is very useful, and when using it to test the HVAC, everything seems to work. My next experiment involved checking the differential pressure valves that sit underneath the engine and divert hot air underneath the car or to the cabin of the car if the heat is selected. these metal flaps seemed to move freely and i don't think they are of concern. I did find one of the silicone 90 degree hoses that connects to the top side of the heat exchanger was cracked. i thought i found the reason why the cabin wasn't getting warm. but, after letting the car heat up driving down the road, i still had very little cabin heat. I have also noticed that with the cabin fan at position "1" it seems to be fairly warm. but once the fan is at position "2,3,or 4" the air seems cooler. i haven't verified this with a thermometer, but i think i am correct. so i started looking at heat exchangers. On my car, I have, I guess, what is referred to as "Gillet" heat exchangers. i don't know if these are installed from the factory or have been installed after the fact. I couldn't find anything that confirms that Gillets were installed from the factory. But comparing the heat exchangers made by "Bischoff" to the one's made by Gillet, the Bischoff are larger and look as if they are more efficient at performing heat exchanger duties. The Gillet heat exchangers have what i would guess is a smaller size and less heat transfer to the pipes that route to the cabin of the car. I'm wondering if i am on the right track, and if the Gillets that are installed on my car are the primary reason i have little cabin heat? Also, on a related side note, when heat is selected, the mixing flaps under the front hood open the doors for heat to enter the HVAC system. does the fresh air intake at the rear center of the front hood have any valve that should be opened or closed, or is there one?
  3. Hi, i was wondering if anybody in eastern north carolina has a porsche tool to reset the airbag light. i made the mistake a few weeks back to turn on the key (to listen to the radio) while i was replacing the original steering wheel. of course now i know that it was a mistake. the airbag light is locked on. I was wondering if anybody in the area has the obd2 connector to reset the light, and save me the drive to leith in cary, nc. any help is appreciated. oh, it's a 99 carrera. thanks. keith
  4. good points, here's my answers to what i have read so far. my '99 carrera has no glove box so i never factored that into my design. thank you for pointing that out. if anyone can provide me with the distance from the left edge of the glove box to the center console, i may be able to make adjustments to that side. i do agree that that it does take away the symmetry of the space but trying to find a location that can accomodate the ipod isn't a simple task in a 996/986. i have no problem going back to the drawing board, i just want to make sure when i do, i draw it right. the issue regarding putting the ipod in the space of the lower center console is loosing the storage cubby. i designed and built a mockup of one for that location and when i put it in the car, it just didn't look good to me. (if i can find it i'll take pics and show it to you). i went back and made another with storage pockets on the left and the ipod dock on the right. it looked better, but was way harder to make, and due to having to make seperate pockets and then attach them to the console that i make was going to be extremely difficult. being able to accomodate the ipod touch and phone isn't difficult. the problem is only the wiring, not the design. the connectors i purchased in bulk are for ipods only (not the phones or touches). there is an adapter forsale at target/walmart that allows my connector to work with the phone and touch. no problem there...but cost.
  5. it does add about 5 inches of space to the right side of the center console. I am about 6 foot 1, 210lbs, and it didn't hinder my leg room. i orignially started out by designing an ipod adapter that replaced the upper and lower storage in the lower center console. it looked strange. it totally accomodated an ipod, charged it and played through the radio but then was a problem because then i didn't have a place to put my sunglasses, or anything else. I then moved the iPod to the right a little bit and tried adding to narrow but deep storage areas. Still looked a little strange. After some brain storming i thought of the current project that you see above. it originally was more narrow than it currently is but i found it had to be wider to accomodate 2 of the screws that were hard to get to because of the 3/4 inch depth created by the ipod pocket. if you know of anybody that thinks that this project (with or with out changes) is something interesting, i would love more feedback.
  6. i was actually hoping to get some feedback on my creation. i have designed and manufactured an ipod dock for porsches. currently it does not support the iPod nano 4G; iPod touch 2G; iPhone 3G. But that will soon change. my goal showing it to you guys on renntech is to get your feedback on what i have made and maybe determine what a good asking price would be. I have designed and built an iPod adapter that will fit in a 1999 through 2004 Porsche 911 (996), or in a 1997 through 2004 Boxster (986). The Porsche adapter is an iPod docking station that allows simple "plug and play" intergration to your factory or aftermarket car stereo. The adapter is pre-wired with an iPod connector that can allow the Ipod to play through your car stereo via a left and right RCA adapters. The adapter also has red and black wires that are the power connections. This allows the operator to charge the iPod while it's connected to the dock. Easy to install, simple instructions that a novice can follow. There's no cutting or drilling, Three small screws hold the adapter in place and screw into existing holes in the side of the center console under the leatherette panel. Instruction make installation of the panel a breeze, but because it can be used with the factory and aftermarket radios, wiring is left to the end user. Becker Radio Company makes RCA adapters that allow an aux input, or end user can run the RCA connections to the factory CD changer (if it isn't being used). As with anything, If it's beyond your scoop of knowledge please leave to a professional for installation. Made of high quality .060 inch ABS plastic. You are looking at the iPod adapter in the picture. The leatherette panel is not included nor is the center console. Does not support the iPod nano 4G; iPod touch 2G; iPhone 3G Questions or comments are welcomed. thanks again, carreraaficionado
  7. do you have a copy of the tsb? anything you can link to me? is anything adjustable under the dash behind the pedal? i'm thinking i still have air in the lines and just haven't got it all out.
  8. yes, it still has the plastic top on it. i was told today that maybe my problem is coming from bleeding the clutch using by pulling a vacuum on the lines instead of pushing fluid through the lines using something like a "brake bomb" which forces fluid through the lines from the fluid resoivor. thoughts? haven't tried anything yet.
  9. help please!!! i have a 1999 996 carrera 2 with 82,000 miles and have recently replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing. i performed the work myself. and went by the clutch changing procedure in the factory repair manuals. everything came apart and went back together smoothly. i also followed the steps in order to bleed the clutch. and while the pedal seemed a little softer then before the clutch change, i still took it off the lift and made a test run down the highway. i could shift through the gears with no problem. but the pedal did feel noticably lower then before the change. my father, a veteran garage mechanic, said i likely still had air in the clutch lines and maybe after driving it for a few days the air might work its way out. so i did just that. the clutch still didn't feel right. and i confirmed my belief that it wasn't right when i noticed the cruise control wasn't working correctly. (there is a microswitch at the top of the pedal travel that turns the cruise control off when you depress the clutch) the clutch pedal isn't returning to the "top" of it's travel. i have tried to bleed the clutch again and still have the same problem. i used a brake bleed kit to bleed the clutch and noticed what i would call microscopic air bubbles in the line but nothing that would obviously appear significant. but i need some help. i have asked other people about the problem. and have heard everything from the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission bell housing to the cap on the brake fluid resoivor. has any body had this problem before and if so, whats the weak point here? i would hate to believe the slave cylinder could be the problem when it seemed to work properly prior to the clutch change.
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