azzar0

Hi,

I am interested in restoring color in the carpet of my 98 Boxster. The interior is Porsche red leather / carpet with black dash / console.

What would you recommend - spray paint the carpet using something like this: http://www.customfinishes.com/Vinyl-Carpet-Dye.htm

or replacing the entire carpet?

For replacement - where can I find original Porsche carpet? What about after-market that fits? Is it easy to pull the existing carpet out?

TIA,

Julian.

i believe that the ball joint on the V-lever is supposed to have a brass clip (on the rear side of the V-lever) that holds it onto the V-lever. if there is no clip holding it to the V-lever, that might explain why your conv top push rods keep popping off. when they pop off, are they coming off from the V-lever side (ball joint side) or the conv top side (red connector side)?

are you re-using your old and severely bent push rods as pictured above? that could also be the reason. if they are bent like that, you absolutely need new ones.

also, the conv top push-rods are a two-piece rod, held together by a screw in the middle. in your picture you can see that the V-lever side piece is still connected to the V-lever and that piece has a hole in it for a screw to link the two pieces together. do you have the screw(s)?

as far as the position of the ball on the V-lever in relation to the ball on the conv top, you are correct. the conv top push rods 'pull' the top down, and 'push' the top up via rotation by the V-lever. the easiest way to get the correct position is probably to put the top all the way up and latch it, then connect the conv top side of the push rods to the balls on the conv top (from inside the car. it might be a little tight, but you should be able to do it.) alternately, you could do it with the top completely down (from outside the car. you just need to snap that red connector on to the conv top ball.) although i think you will have to remove the large clip-on plastic side pieces that hide the clamshell arms when you are cycling the top. you can put them back on after you've re-attached all the top internals and have made sure the top works correctly. (or you can leave them off - they are purely cosmetic.)

Hi Chris,

I didn't check the back of the V leveler - do I have to unscrew the transmission for that? I haven't been able to unscrew the transmission yet (lack of long extension rod to add to my wrench). The push rods are connected to the V leveler via another piece, as you mentioned. I connected the two pieces together using a screw. The push rods pop at the red connector side, although they have been changed with the after-market metal connectors, as you can see in the pictures. I straightened the bent rod in a small vise and they seem to look closer to what they're supposed to look like. I haven't thought about removing the clip-on plastic side pieces - I'll try that too.

Thanks!

Update...

I realigned the transmissions, reconnected all the cables and rods, and I noticed that the push rods connecting from the V joint to the canvas keep poping out. They just won't stay on. So I connected the push rods from the V joint to the clamshell, connected the canvas cables and left the other 2 connectors out of the picture and I ended up with a semi-automatic top. Basically the clamshell operates normally, the lights on the dashboard go on and off when they're supposed to, etc, but the canvas itself does not move. When I open the top I let the clamshell go all the way up, then lower the canvas manually (it just drops in), then continue pushing the button until the clamshell is tight in place and the light goes out. When I open the top, I let the clamshell open all the way, then pull the top up and continue the operation until the light goes out, then latch it on.

This is slightly better than fully manual because the clamshell is snug in place and won't rattle. I also don't have to get out of the car to perform the operation, which is also a plus. It still isn't a full solution, but for the time being it will do.

Why do the other 2 rods keep popping out? I also noticed that when the clamshell is fully up and out the distance between the V joint and the joint ball on the canvas side is much longer than the rod itself and I would never be able to connect it that way. I am assuming that in this position the rod is actually pulling on the top and that's why it seems to be longer than the rod, but I am not sure. What can I do to get the other 2 rods to stay in place? Should I buy new ones?

I also noticed that one of the joint balls is lose and doesn't have a nut on the back side. I will have to make sure I put one on - perhaps this is the reason they pop? That would explain the driver side, but the other side is screwed in and doesn't move - why would that one pop?

TIA

Unlikely that a dealership would put in the aftermarket metal joints.

When you buy a used car and work was done to it, you never know what you are going to find.

A few years ago we worked on a car that had the old style transmission on one side, and the new style on the other side. Maybe that is why your transmissions do not work the same. But you will figure it out for sure once you get them out. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...666&hl=saga

Interesting - my cables look the same on both sides, but who knows. I haven't had the time to try to take the transmission off, but I was able to put it back in gear and synchronize both sides. Then I connected the two pushrods to the clamshell and pushed the up button. The clam shell completed the cycle and parked in the down position. Now here comes the really strange behavior: when I pushed the down button the transmissions did NOT change direction. I tried a few times, pressing up and down buttons, the transmissions move in the same direction until the pushrods force the transmission to skip a beat and cause the'POP' noise. Why is the motor not changning directions? You should be able to do that, right? After I disassemble everything and I push the buttons again the motor seems to change directions as expected. Any ideas?

Thanks for your help!

:renntech:

The transmission has come off the half moon gear. That is why the V-lever does not move. Hook the cable up to a drill - I forget which driection you need to run the drill. When the drill is running you rotate the V-lever with your hand and the worm gear will re-engage with the half moon gear. The V-lever cannot go full circle by itself because of the half moon gear. To get it to go full circle you have to turn it by hand when it comes off the gear, then it will start to go back on the gear.

Hard to explain since you cannot see what is going on inside the transmission. Might as well take the transmission out, then remove the cover from the back of the transmission, then you can see what you are doing and get the gears back together.

You need to remove the bolt for the V-lever. Then the V-lever. Then the round plastic plate. Then pull back the foam lining and you will see 3 nuts that bolt the transmission to the car. The V-lever bolt may be hard to remove if it has not been removed before. There is loctite on the threads. I use a breaker bar.

I see you have the metal joints instead of the original plastic joints. Who put those in? That is why the push rod is bent. If you had the plastic joint the joint would have broken before the rod could bend. Push rod is 986 561 279 02.

Thanks Tool Pants. I'll try again to open up the transmission. I noticed the metal joints as well, I believe the previoius owner must have put them in. When I got the car she told me they had problems with the top but had it realigned, etc. I suspect the dealer must have put in the metal joints when they took it in to fix the top, but I am not sure.

I understand the half moon gear, but what doesn't make sense is that the passenger's side gear moves in full circles - it doesn't come off the gear. Why is that? Is it possible that someone put in a full moon gear instead of the original half moon?

Still no luck with removing the transmission - can anybody help?

Meanwhile, I tried the button again and sometimes the driver side transmission starts to move. I also noticed that if I keep the button pushed (say in the "UP" position) the passanger side transmission keeps on rotating while the driver side stops after a while (not sure if it makes a full circle or not). Is this normal? Also, what is the correct UP and DOWN positions? Are there marks on the transmission unit to use as directions?

I would like to replace the push rods and the other connectors that goes to the canvas (from the V joint - the one that is bent in the pictures above). Can anyone tell me the part numbers for these?

Thanks!

I think Tool Pants explained why sometimes one or both transmissions won't move - it has to do with the semi-circle transmission used in the 97-99 models. I think that's the problem I'm having, however I can't seem to be able to open the transmission to reset the position of the wheel. Do I just have to use A LOT OF FORCE? If I try to use force the whole side of the car bends but the screw still won't budge - any suggestions on how to open up the transmission?

Thanks!

pictures...

I took the push rods out and placed the top in service mode. When I did that I discovered that both connections from the transmission to the ball joint (what some call the 'red' plastic connection) were disconnected. Not only that, but the one on the driver's side is bent to almost 90 degrees.

Now that the top and clam shell are disconnected I can push the button and here's what happens: the passanger side V joint moves as expected, however the driver's side does not. I checked the transmission cable's ends that go into the motor and they are very long. How can I look at the other ends? Where do they go? What causes the driver's V joint not to respond to the button commands?

Thanks!

Hi all,

My top got stuck today in the UP position. When I tried to put it down I heard a POP behind my shoulder and the top didn't do anything anymore.

I read as much as I could about transmission cables being shorter than the housing causing this problem and I am trying to get the car in service mode so that I can get to the motor and cables. I was able to disconnect the two small ball joints on top of the cables on each side of the top, but the clam shell is stuck in the close position and I can't get to the other ball joints.

Is it OK to snap the clamp on the other end of the black pushrods? Since they are in the close position will they snap and fly all over the place or is it pretty safe to do it? Are there other ways to remove them?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much!

I don't think you lost anything. Just expand the first picture in the thread to see the internal components. When I opened my key I have a circuit board with the battery in one half and the other half holds the key and the code pellet. This pellet is a glass capsule that is the second layer of electronic security to the key and is located in a slot in the lower left quadrant of the plastic key head. The pellet and key fit together securely and take an effort to get them apart. The circuit board readily snaps loose from the plastic half. So if you have a circuity board, a battery, a glass pellet and the two halves that is it. You could replace the battery and snap it all back together to see if it works.

Hi Brent,

My car doesn't have a transmitter for remote locks, so the circuit board is missing from my key. What I see is the light bulb on one side, a cilinder looking thingy on the other side (fuse?!?) a contact plate on the bottom, a clear (silicone or glass) circle on top of the contact plate, the black button, and the two halves of the head.

The attached picture is not very clear (cell phone) but should give you an idea.

I will get a battery and see if it works.

Thanks

Many of the option know have a setscrew.

Lift the leather boot and look for a set screw -- if there is none then just twist and pull to remove.

I lifted the boot - there is no screw. I tried twisting and pulling but I haven't been able to take the knob out. (I didn't try TOO hard - should I?)

How hard is it to replace the entire shift mechanism? I haven't seen a replacement knob without a thread on the lower end (to screw into the shaft).

I just want to be able to replace the knob and the boot as the leather is starting to show signs of wear and tear.

Thanks!

Normal.

Thanks Loren!

It's great to have this forum available and know things for a fact as opposed to assuming (like in this case).

Thanks again.

Brent,

I opened my key to replace the battery, and when I did that the battery went flying and haven't been able to find it. Did I lose anything else or is the battery the only moving part inside the key head?

Thanks!

I was wondering if I could just replace the shift knob (as opposed to the entire shift assembly). Does the knob screw into the shaft or is it all one piece?

If it screws in, do I have to take the boot off and unscrew the existing knob and screw in the replacement? Are there instructions on how to take the boot off?

Sorry for all these questions - I am just a newbie :)

Thanks!

Hello all,

When I start the car the wing light is on and it stays on until I start moving. As soon as the car is moving the light goes out. Is this normal? All other lights go out as soon as the car is started, this is the only light that waits to turn off until the car moves...

[5 speed 98 Boxster]

Thanks!

I downloaded the manual and found the button as well. The wing slides out and back in as it should. COOL :)

Thanks again guys!

:welcome: Azzar0

Mike is correct :thumbup: .

Tail pops out automatically at 75 m/h and hides at 50 m/h. You can manually move it via a button located on the bottom of the fuse cover located in the left side of drivers' footwell.

Good luck with your car :cheers: , and ALWAYS :drive: DRIVE SAFE!

BDB._

BDB - thanks for the description of the location - I couldn't find the button. I will look at the fuse box later today.

Thanks!

You can download a PDF Owner 's manual on this site (under "Quick Menu/Porsche Owner's Manual) but it is for a facelift Boxster (post 2003?) which has a few minor differences from your model (has gloveboax etc.)

Thanks - downloading MY00 manual now. The differences are minor and I can ignore them.

Thanks again!

If the 1998 is similar to the 2002 model the answers to your 2nd question is:

A ) Yes the wing "pops out" when you drive faster than 120 km/h (somewhere around 75 MPH) and retracts when you slow down to under 80 km/h (50 MPH)

B ) Yes. You can manually control it to stay out. On the 2002 model there is a button down on the left side in front of the drivers doors. (Just below the connection where you can hook up a battery to open the trunk and hood when the cars battery is flat)

/Stuntman Mike - Boxer 2002

Thank you Stuntman Mike - I will look for that button when I get out of work, although I don't remember seeing one...

Hellol all,

I have a newly acquired '98 Boxster (2.5L, standard, silver) and this is my first post.

First of all I read and learned a lot on this forum already - great community! I already implemented the garage door opener mod and it works great! No more bulky openers hanging on the mirror...

(I also changed the headlight bulb as one of them was dead, but that was a piece of cake).

My Boxster came with the owner's manual, however it is molded and the pages are stuck together to the point that I can't open them at all (previous owner left the books in the rain or something), so I can't really read the manual unless I get it off of eBay or something similar. My questions are:

1) Can I download the manual somewhere or can I look at it on the web in PDF / HTML / whatever format?

2) While I wait for a manual suggestion, what is the deal with the rear wing on this year model (98)? Is it popping out at 70 + MPH by itself? Can I leave it out all the time or manually control it? If so - how?

Thank you all very much in advance!