azzar0

Just crossed the 100k miles mark... I bought my '98 Boxster in 2007. It came with 16" wheels - I replaced them with 18" wheels and Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 Max Summer Performance tires. Replaced front and rear brake pads and sensors, painted calipers red, replaced shift knob with short shift silver / black, added spoiler button, garage door opener button, replaced convertible top transmissions. I did the 60k miles maintenance - oil change, fuel filter, spark plugs, polyrib belt, cleaned radiators, replaced air and cabin filters. Then I replaced all amber lights with LED lights and clear side markers, euro LED clear rear lights, and added Xenon lights (6k). Did the 75k maintenance, repalced parking brake switch, replaced hinge on the console, replaced all 4 O2 sensors, and just completed 100k maintenance (changed spark plugs, coil packs, air filter). Shortly after 99,000 miles the car started hesitating. Loren suggested a new MAF sensor - I replaced it and the car runs great again. Next spring I am planning on replacing the water pump / thermostat (just in case) and take a look at the suspensions, tie rod, bushings, etc.

Thanks Loren! It seems the MAF sensor was going bad. I replaced spark plugs and coil packs (needed to, I had over 30k miles on the spark plugs and 100k, current milage, on the coil packs) - that made a small difference but did not fix the problem. I ran without the MAF for a couple of days and, for the most part, things were OK. I ordered a new MAF sensor and put it in, and so far (70 miles later) the car runs smooth, there is no hesitation, and no CEL light on. Thanks again.

Hello, I noticed that lately my '98 Boxster started hesitating, especially at high RPM. I couldn't get it over 5500 RPM in 3rd gear, for instance. I replaced the spark plugs and it has the same issue. If I give it gas it almost chokes and backfires. I don't have the check engine light on. Idle is fine. I sprayed water on the coil packs while idling to see if one of them has a leak or something - I didn't notice a fluctuation in idle speed... Any ideas? Thanks in advance

I took my 98 Boxster with (now) 77K miles on a few long trips. Last trip was in September, when I went Ohio to Vermont, then back from Vermont through Philadelphia to Ohio. More than 2000 miles in less than a week. The car ran like a champ, no problems whatsoever. I also drove 3 times Ohio - Philly round trips in the past, no problems at all and I am planning another long trip next weekend :) Drive away and enjoy it. Hope you have good weather

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7062 It's a bit uncomfortable with the car on jacks but it's definitely doable. Good Luck!

Hi Phillipj, How did you remove the rear bumper? Do you have a link for a DYI? Just curious, much like you I'd probably do it just for the heck of it :)

Thanks Maurice :) I am getting ready to do my 75K maintenance tomorrow. Changing air filter, cabin filter, and oil. Last time I had the car up on jacks but I may try to get the oil change without lifting the car up or just lift it on one side to get to the bolt and lower it and let it drain. The dealer quoted me $707 for this. I spent less than $100 in parts and oil...

As Loren said. I wanted to add that you might have the aerokit side skirts, but I can't tell from your picture. If you had a side view of the car we'd be able to tell.

Spark Plugs DIY: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7059

Interesting. So bare with me... Again, I am not arguing, nor am I questioning your logic, I am just trying to understand the complexity of the offset issue. If my understanding is correct, the definition of a wheel offset is the distance between the center of the wheel and the outer edge of the wheel, where the center of the wheel represents ET0. If the offset is negative than you would need to 'shave' the wheel in order to fit (because you are too close to the strut housing). If the offset is positive, then you would add a spacer to fit - is this correct? If the wheel says ET42, doesn't that imply a positive offset? If it was a negative offset shouldn't it be marked as ET -42? Following the notation logic, since you are 42 mm out and you need to be 47 mm out, doesn't it follow that you would need to add 5mm in order to accomplish that offset? I think the confusion is between negative and positive offsets. It appears that most people I've talked to assume a positive offset whereas you and jmatta assume a negative one. Also, if it was truly an offset issue, wouldn't I see this problem on BOTH sides? It is clearly happening only on the left side, not at all on the right side. Upon close inspection, I was able to confirm that the right fender was already rolled (the inner lip is tucked in) while the left fender has not been rolled (the inner lip is sticking out). My suspicion is that the left fender was replaced at some point in time, hence the difference; which would, in turn, explain the issue. With that said, I am more confused than ever :huh: Thank you for your input and patience

Hi Brian, I used this wheel offset calculator, in addition to talking to various other dealers and shops: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp The offset calculator came back with the same results - EXTEND the wheels out 5 mm I am going to a Porsche clinic this Saturday and I'll ask my mechanic again about the details...

Just like JMatta said - make sure you heat the paint (with heating gun / hair dryer), then slowly roll the bat and push the lip in. Google "fender rolling" and you'll even see some videos on how to do it (as well as how not to do it :>)

Yes, I am sure. I am not trying to confuse you :rolleyes: The difference is that your car is an 02S while mine is a 98 base. I believe later and S models have bigger wheel wells to accomodate larger wheels, that's why you're not seeing an issue with the outside. My wheels are tight on the inside too, but not enough to cause a problem. :renntech:

I am thinking about bringing the car to a shop to have them do it. The basic principle, however, is the same. Something pushes the lip inward; whether that something is a baseball bat or a roller dictates how smooth the surface and the overall lip looks when completed. You still have to apply heat to the paint (so that it doesn't crack), regardless of which approach you take. Aesthetics are not an issue, in my opinion, because you couldn't notice imperfections (should there be any) tucked under the fender. In any event, I only pushed in very very little, not the entire fender. I will talk to a couple of shops and see exactly how they do it and if the price is right I might have them do it.

Thank You Loren, for validating the offset. Yes, the kit came with GT3 (longer) bolts with red sleeves.