azzar0

IMO - Your belt does look good, and I wouldn't replace it.

You might keep the new one in the spare tire for any future use - or a friend.

The photos are excellent and help in reviewing your request for assistance :)

Take care,

Ed

Thanks Ed! Well then I guess I'll just put her' back to normal and stow away the new belt I picked up! I always enjoy finding "good" surprises, like a nice and uncracked poly belt :)

Cheers!

:renntech:

Mine looked about the same but since I had a new one and I was there I changed it anyway. I figured better safe than sorry. A new belt (got it from Sunset) was around $30, original Porsche.

Rear View:

Front View:

Rear View:

pretty nice! azzoro . It would look better if they were black?

I didn't like the industrial look of the mesh I used for the grills so I re-made the windscreens.

These are truly a work of art (I think :P ) and better than the originals because the holes are much smaller and it reduces the air flow. They also cover the bottom more, to further reduce air traffic.

Driver's side - front view:

Passenger's side - front view:

It would be interesting to see something like this for a 986

untitled.bmp

That looks like a 987. Wouldn't it be cheaper to just get a 987 instead of getting the body parts to dress up a 986?

Or are you referring to the color?

pretty nice! azzoro . It would look better if they were black?

Yea, I am going to re-do them using fiberglass mesh instead. The holes are smaller and the color is charcoal. I found a nice mesh on the net with hexagonal holes, much like the OEM wind stop, but I will give this one a try first.

Thanks,

azzar0.

FYI - New battery purchased today at Sam's Club - Energizer (made by Johnson Controls), E48 - $58 + tax. The 47 was more expensive. I'll post a pic soon.

You dont mention the idle speed control valve being cleaned, however if the idle is stable i guess you can rule that out.

Check the engine mountings just in case you have a broken or soggy one, if they are soft it will amplify any irregularity and create a shake.

You can continue to drive the car as it is without causing any damage so its safe to delay spending money at the moment.

The likely thing is the clutch plate, it may be at the end of its life and slightly distorted or indeed contaminated with oil, when you slip the clutch it tends to grab and release causing judder, what is it like if you lift off the clutch at tickover, no additional revs and slip the clutch in slowly to reverse?

I mentioned the dual mass flywheel simply because this type of flywheel has two parts with a spring that applies pressure between the two parts - as you engage drive the spring takes up the initial drive to ensure smooth gear changes (not quite as simple as this but it aids the explanation)

If you are handy with a spanner and know someone who can assist, then you will save big time, may as well change the RMS whilst your at it (will have to change it if the clutch plate is contaminated with oil)

Good luck

Hi Glyn,

I wish I had a lift and a transmission jack, but I don't :( I don't think I can do any clutch work with the car lifted on regular jacks.

I think I still have some life left in the clutch - the RPM doesn't jump up when I switch gears (which would be a sign of an aging clutch) and when I put the car in reverse I don't have a hard time, it goes in easily.

I will have to exercise my reverse driving. I usually back up into my garage and the distance from the driveway to the garage is not that big - I don't usually fully release the clutch, which could also explain the shaking. I need to test on a flat surface with the clutch fully released and see how it behaves. Then I can try on a slope, again with the clutch fully released and see what happens then.

Thanks for your advice, I'll let you know how these tests perform.

Front view:

Rear view (1):

Rear view (2):

Louvers (matching) mesh:

Front bumper matching mesh:

Meanwhile I am going to try to build my own wind deflectors.

Well, I built my own. They're not as thick as the factory ones, but they do match my grills. I may be able to attach the Lexan covers to these.

Here are some pics:

I used wire mesh from Lowe's. I drew the shape based on the inside of the leather cover. As you can see, I used the 3 screws as mounting points for the mesh:

Almost finished product:

Driver side (front view):

Passenger side (front view):

More pics in the follow up post - ran out of space

Any chance you are applying the e-brake and it's sticking until you get in forward motion? My rear calipers are getting in need of a rebuild and I think they tend to drag. Additionally, when the wife applies the hand brake I note that everything sticks if the car has not be driven in days.

That's why I don't let my wife drive the car! Just kidding, she gets to drive it once a month :D

I didn't notice any sticking. I changed all brakes a couple of weeks ago and the calipers looked good...

Shawn - how do you feel about assisting me in changing the clutch? :)

Thanks,

azzar0.

U see the ghetto mounting screw at the bottom? thats how they get mounted!

Yea... The seller is very nice and he'll let me return the parts.

Meanwhile I am going to try to build my own wind deflectors.

Thanks,

azzar0.

I have a 2000 Boxster 5 speed in Richmond VA. Had a problem with e-brake microswitch for the top, fixed it. I DID take the seat out with the keys in the ignition so i could trouble shoot microswitches and get up under the dash. The light has been on for a couple of days. OK so where did I screw up guys? And how do i fix it? Thanks for help in advance.

Shawn

Shawn:

For future reference, it is possible to take the driver's seat out without disconnecting the main electrical connector under the seat. The wires are long enough to (carefully) lift the seat out and place it on the ground besides the car.

Regards, Maurice.

Or just invest in Durametrics and reset your light :)

It is a good tool and you can also monitor various functions to see how your engine behaves and how the sensors react, etc.

I think U are talking about this Lexan plastic noise reducer?

Exactly - that's the one!

I got too excited when I saw the price and didn't read the description carefully...

Thanks,

azzar0.

Im kinda lost here but If u already have the wind screens(1&2), clips are already built on to it,,,just click them on unless your tabs are broken.

I figured out that what I bought is actually not the wind screens, but rather an addition to the windscreens, made of plastic, to further reduce the wind in the cabin. I other words, I do need 1 & 2, and then add these things to the wind deflectors.

I apologize for the confusion.

Thanks for all your help,

azzar0.

This is likely to be the clutch or the dual mass flywheel.

The gearing for reverse is very low therefore the torque at the wheels is much greater than any forward gear (You cant do the same speed for revs in reverse than you can in first gear) This will then mean slight fluctiations in revs produces a pronounced surge in torque at the wheels which in turn gives the effect of shaking.

Before completly blaming the clutch/flywheel ensure your tickover is stable, that with aircon engaged there is no hunting etc, the smoother the engine runs the less opportunity for surging.

You model has the idle speed control valve, this could be sticking, or the throttle body needs a good clean (Do you have fluctuating idle)

If you have not cleaned the throttle or the idle speed control valve then start here - always do the least expensive fix first - take it to a garage and they are likely to swap the clutch & flywheel just because it makes a few bucks

You will find instructions on the cleaning in the forum

Good luck

Hi Glyn,

I cleaned the throttle body just last week. I used to have little fluctuating idling and hesitations when changing 1st to 2nd gear at low RPMs. After I cleaned the TB I noticed improvement.

The engine is running smoothly, I just have this issue with backing up. If I give it enough gas and go a little faster it doesn't shake, it's just when I back up using a 'normal' approach.

If it is the clutch or the dual mass flywheel, can I still drive around like that or should I have it replaced right away? I would hate to have to put that kind of money into it now.

Thanks,

azzar0

Can anyone post a few pictures of all the mounting hardware associated with the wind deflectors?

Eventually with and without the deflectors mounted, etc.

Just the sides, not the center glass, I already have that in.

I'm trying to understand how it works and what can be done to replicate this functionality without spending $250 for a couple of plastic clips...

Thanks,

azzar0.

nope U need #1

Juniic,

I already have the wind deflectors (1 & 2), I need the clips that they attach to the roll bar with.

Thanks,

azzar0.

azzar0,

Take a look at this thread :

www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5477

It explains how to mount the clips needed to secure the center piece between the rollbars.

Bill

Hi Bill,

I already have the center glass mounted.

Thanks anyway,

azzar0.

azzar0, just curious, how did you obtain just the center glass?

It came with just the center glass. I am not sure if the previous owner put it in, he may have.

They just clip in:

Left: 986 561 583 00 01C

Right: 986 561 584 00 01C

They are around $117 each. Try ebay as they sometimes turn up there.

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your quick response. I found something on pelicanparts:

4 986-561-323-00-OEM Set of fastening parts, for, wind deflector 1 $23.50

Is this what I need?

Thanks!

Does anyone know where to get the black inserts for the windscreen that go in the roll bar (behind the seats, not the center piece)? Do they have a part number?

I should also ask how the windscreen is actually supposed to be mounted. I looked and I don't have any holes behind the seats in the roll bar. Are these some pieces that just clip on or would I have to drill holes into the roll bar?

As you can tell I am not familiar with the windscreen product at all. I just have the center glass and I would like to add the other 2 pieces. Any help with preparing the roll bar for windscreens is highly appreciated.

Thanks,

azzar0.

Sounds like it might be somthing to do with the clutch. Would have said maybe oil on it but not sure why it doesn't do it in the forward gears. Do you have an oil leak?

No, no oil leak. I will have to run more tests and see how it behaves.

Thanks.

Hello,

I noticed that when I back up the car shakes a lot. I also have to give it plenty of gas. I think this is fairly new, I always back up into my garage and I noticed this behavior only recently. Does anyone know why it shakes and what the fix is or what does it mean? All other gears are fine. Could it be a sing of an aging clutch?

MY98 2.5L 5spd 69K mi

Thanks,

azzar0.

I've been following recent posts on the HID conversion. Mine was done over the winter using the CQLights kit, as others use. Since installing these my batt and oil pressure warning lights on the instrument cluster light when the headlights are turned on. Turning off the engine and restarting cures it. CQ is mystified and have not been able to help me. The question is if any of you have experienced anything similar?????

Thanks, Bob

I've had my CQLights kit in for about a month now and I never had these lights come on. What temperature are yours? Did they come with the slim ballast?

azzar0.