azzar0

MY00 manual is here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...mp;showfile=947

Should be close enough to what you need.

The key button you see is the door lock / unlock.

Hi all,

I just picked up a 99 porsche boxster with a porsche rebuilt certified engine and about 25k on it. I sold my 2.8 1997 Z3 to get it, and I thought for sure the boxster would be faster. The fact of the matter is, the boxster fees about HALF as fast as the Z3. Im sure there is something wrong, but it takes forever to accelerate. The engine runs great, and seems better on the highway, however. It seems as if it takes the gears forever to wind out, the car feels as if it has a 2.82 gear ratio. Is this how boxsters are, or is there something wrong with the car? Any owners near the cleveland area that have a spare moment, Id love to set up a test drive to see if there are any other issues as well, as I've never owned one of these cars (or know anyone that has,) and have no clue what to expect.

Thanks guys!

Not sure what the problem could be, but a Boxster is faster, quicker, more stable, and more fun than a Z3 / Z4 and/or an Audi TT. And, unlike its 'competition', a Boxster is also a Porsche ;)

Try cleaning the MAF as suggested - that might cure it. Also, has this car been running regularly? If so, what kind of driving (slow / grandma style, fast, hard, aggressive)? The car adapts itself to the driver's style. Is it a tiptronic or a manual transmission?

Interesting debate. While I agree with both sides (I drive both ways for different reasons on different occasions), I would like to add that I prefer to use engine brake under wet conditions. I feel that I have more control when I apply less pressure on the brakes and use the engine to assist with slowing down. Perhaps it is only a perception, but it works for me :)

Another reason to use engine brake is when you're speeding and you pass a highway entrance ramp and a police car enters the highway. Your radar detector doesn't beep, but you know they can turn it on any second. You don't want to attract attention by slamming on the brakes - drop from 5th to 4th and you will slow down while giving the impression that you are a speed-obeying Porsche owner :D I am not talking going from 120 MPH to 65 MPH, more like from 80 to 70..

Hi Tool Pants

Thanks for your reply and picture. Firstly compared to mine, your engine is spotless!

But yes correct I do have a 1997. I've taken your photo, so can I confirm a few things. Can you please confirm that the item circled in red is the throttle body. Is that correct? In regards to the idle control valve, do I need to remove the tubes as marked in green, to get to it?

To be honest, I thought I had to remove the pipe that comes from the airbox into the throttle body and was expecting to need to get into the butterfly valve. Is this not needed for a 97 Boxster?

Thanks again. I'll give it a go with the two bolts, but please to everyone else, keen to hear if you have any more advice.

Is there a way to clean the engine? Mine is extremely dusty and wiping it doesn't really get it clean.

Tool Pants, is the procedure you described valid for a MY98 as well or is the placement of the throttle body different?

Thanks,

Azzar0

i believe this is due to a loose/malfunctioning top latch microswitch (where you latch the leading edge of the conv top to the windshield frame). you could either use a 'red clip' to keep the switch pushed in when the top is down, replace the microswitch, or try to repair the microswitch. if you search for 'top latch microswitch' you may find it. i believe that a wire connection comes loose and just needs to be re-soldered.

if you think about it, the windows normally drop when you unlatch the top and that 'button' (that the top latch pushes in when the top is closed) is released. when you go over a bump, the microswitch erroneously reports that the top is being unlatched and the windows drop.

Hi Chris,

That makes sense. The windows didn't go down when the top was up because the switch was always pushed in by the latch.

I'll keep that in mind in case I need to use the top manually again.

Wait a second... If it is the top switch, how come it doesn't do it when the top is operated in automatic mode? Is it because the clamshell sensors tell the computer that the top is completely down and therefore it ignores the latch sensor?

Thanks!

In case I need to go back to operating the top manually, is there a way to turn the sensors off? I am asking because every time I drove with the top manually put down the windows would go down the typical 1" or so whenever I hit a bump on the road. This kind of makes sense, because I am assuming that the clamshell is bouncing, causing the sensors to send some 'on' signal. If I could disable these sensors, then the windows would behave normally.

TIA,

Azzar0.

Thanks for the info, Azzar0. I did unhook both sides of the V-lever from the rod arms and from the push rods and the V-levers kept going in one direction (CCW, I think) no matter if I pressed the button in the "up" or the "down" direction. What is strange is that last week, when I just hooked up the clamshell via the pushrods to the V-lever, I was able to operate the clamshell back and forth (up and down) and the up/down switch was responding correctly. I have not been able to duplicate that this last time.

I can't imagine how putting in new transmissions would help reverse the direction of rotation, but maybe I just don't understand what causes the reversal in direction.

I think I have to look into the big relay on top of the fuse box and into the mysterious relay that I have heard is located behind the driver's side B pillar.

I'll keep you up to date as well as I delve further into this.

Regards, 1schoir.

It sounds like your motor doesn't 'understand' up or down commands. It just turns in one direction (perhaps the last direction it remembers). It might be a relay issue, but I am not familiar with how they work. It would make sense that the relay is faulty since it is the one sending the signal to the motor.

I experienced something weird myself: I had everything hooked up and I was pushing the open / down button. The top went down, clamshell lowered in place, but the light on the dashboard won't go out. I kept pushing the button little by little until the motor stopped moving. The top was stuck, I couldn't move up or down at all. Once I snapped the pushrods off, the transmissions started to operate again. It was almost as if there was too much resistance and the motor stopped trying (perhaps it has a built-in resistance detection sensor?!?)

I wish someone who knows more about motors would read your thread and shed some light on this issue. I will try to find out more info as well.

Keep us all posted with your findings and good luck!

Azzar0

Update:

This evening I replaced the transmissions on my 98 Boxster with 2000 style transmissions. Long story short - the top works, however I am not convinced it will continue to operate normally in its current state. Both sides still move a little when the transmissions are being engaged by the motor. When I say the sides move I reffer to the car sides, the metal part behind the fender, the actual car metal piece that holds the transmissions. Is this normal?

I was thinking of taking the car over to a body shop and having them weld a support beam under the transmission to make it more stable, but if it is normal for the transmissions to pull on the sides then I won't worry about it.

Also, I was wondering if someone can tell me if there is a difference between my 98 motor and a 2000 (and up) motor?

FYI - I replaced both transmissions, cables, mounting bolts, and top pushrods (the ones with the white plastic connector on the ends). I am still using the old pushrods for the clamshell, but I am planning on replacing those as well soon, just to be sure.

well, i'm not TP or Mark, but i have a question. ;)

this sounds like a transmission problem at first read. but if you are using a drill to spin the cables (which turn the transmissions) and the top works with the drill, then maybe it's a conv cable motor problem? or maybe a relay malfunction?

i would remove the cables from the conv cable motor and put something in there (like a drill bit or something) so you can watch the rotation to see if it changes direction. that's what it sounds like is happening.

just thinking out loud...

The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again.

I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested.

Regards, 1schoir.

1schoir,

I had a similar experience with my top - the transmission moved in the same direction regardless of what direction I pushed the button. I am in the process of upgrading the transmissions to the newer style and see if that helps. I will let you know. I have all the pieces I need (I think) and I am planning on getting it done this afternoon / evening.

I already have a thread about my top experience - I will post pictures and the steps I took in that thread.

Meanwhile, continue with the motor suggestion and see if it behaves the same way when it gets to the positions you mentioned. My guess is that the motor will operate normally unhooked, because you don't have the load of the transmissions / top, but it's just an uneducated guess. You could also try to unhook the top and see if the motor spins the transmissions in the right direction without the top connected, although I am not sure how that would help, except adding more details to your diagnosis.

Good Luck,

Azzar0.

i took dan's suggestion to check the door lock switch. i drive my boxster for pleasure only, i hardly lock my car and i never used the "hold down the key" method to lock/open my windows. so i thought i would just exercise that switch to see if it may be sticky or something. i turned it both directions about 10 times, each time holding it down. i did that on both doors, they both have the same feature. well, i am happy to report that after that exercise, my windows are not coming up on their own anymore. it's been a couple of days, the problem would have came up by now. i guest a word of advise is to exercise that switch once in a while to prevent what happened to me.

thanks to all the help, hope i would'nt have to come back to this thread with anymore bad news.

thanks 1schoir for the plastic clip info. that's good to know. i learned a lot from u guys.

later.

mustang66

Glad to see you solved your problem!!!

I will try the door lock switch test also, just to 'exercise' the switch.

Happy Driving :)

Azzar0

hi folks,

i just replaced both push rods for the top (see my thread started july 22, Broken Push Rod ...). the top is working fine, thanks to a lot of help from this forum, but now my side windows are going up on their own. i notice the following pattern so far:

1. when i put the convertible top all the way down. both side windows immediately go all the way up (i don't remember that before i repaired the top). sometimes only the driver side would go up.

2. i pressed both buttons to get both windows all the way down, drive around with the top down, in about 5 minutes, both windows would go all the way up on their own.

3. after step 2 above, i have not drive long enoug to see if the windows would come up again.

4. after parking the car in the garage with the top down and both windows down, closed the door, come back in an hour or so, both windows are fully up. if i lock the car with the key, it does not happen (locking the car turn off electrical power, i think). is there a delay? is this normal? it does not happen before i fixed the top.

i saw some posts regarding window problems but not like mine. i read the owners manual, did not mention anything like this. bought the used 97 boxster not long ago, really not sure how the windows should work. it is anoying to have them come up on their own when i am cruising with the top down. it does not seem to come up when i am driving with the top up.

i am sure you experienced owners have some explanation for me. looking forward to hear from you.

mustang66

Hi Mustang,

Interesting issue you ran into...

First question that comes to mind is this: when you have the top down, are any of the sensor still on? Is the top light showing on the dashboard? I am in the process of fixing my top now and because the transmissions are not hooked up the clamshell is not pushed all the way down, which causes the sensors to stay on all the time, which, in turn, causes the windows to go down the usual 1" or so. This is annoying because I put them back up and then, as soon as I go over a bump or something, the windows go down again (perhaps because the clamshell rattles and jumps enough to quickly turn the sensors off and immediately back on). I don't have any problems with the top up, however, even though the top light is still on.

Did you try to reprogram your windows? (Go all the way up and keep pushing the button for extra 10 seconds while the car is turned on)

Please keep us informed of your solution and good luck!

Be absolutely sure that if your neighbor is going to weld anything on the car, you make sure that your battery is disconnected. The last thing you want to do is to fry any of the expensive electronics in your Boxster. Keep in mind that you will need the radio code after you reconnect the battery.

Will stay tuned.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for reminding me, 1schoir! I would have kept the battery connected... I do have the radio code and tested it to make sure it works when I took out the radio to test a Pioneer. I haven't decided what I am going to replace the factory radio with yet, so I put it back in for the time being. I was thinking of getting a JVC b/c I have a JVC 12 CD changer already, but Pioneer is better. Of course, an audio upgrade involves amp, sub, and speakers upgrades as well, without those JVC will probably be just as good as the Pioneer...

I have the opportunity to get 18" rims with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires at a reasonable price. I own a 98 Boxster with standard (16"??) rims. These 18" rims are part numbers 987 362 136 00 / HLB 8Jx18 ET 57 and 987 362 138 00 / HLB 9Jx18 ET 43

Would they fit on my Boxster? Do I need anything extra (spacers, etc) or is it just a simple swap?

TIA!

Stock 18" fitment on the 986 is 225/40-18 on 8Jx18 ET 50 and 265/35-18 on 9Jx18 ET 52. However, I am running 9Jx17 ET 43 on the rear of my car and they fit fine.

The tire sizes for the 987 are a little taller than the 986 to allow the use of practical sidewall heights with 19" wheels.

The 18" 987 wheels should fit your car without any rubbing. If they do rub, it will be very minor and can be fixed by adding a 2 or 3mm spacer.

Please post pictures and whether you needed spacers or not here if you go ahead.

Good luck,

Graeme

I think I will postpone the 18" wheels for later. My existing tires are almost brand new Bridgestone Potenza on 16" wheels. I will wait for those to wear out and then get a full set of wheels with tires. It just doesn't feel right spending a lot of money on wheels and tires when the existing ones are very good ;) I am looking forward to a 'meaner' look though :D

azzar0,

I'm not sure if this will help but when I fixed my top, I got my half moon stuck in the same manner you described. The gear can only move one way, if installed incorrectly the half gear will stop moving after an up or down cycle or pop out. If you open the transmission and you don't see any damage, then it's fine.

The way I fixed this is disconnected all the joints and lever. I had someone press the down button until the half moon gear jumps out of the track. I took note of the direction of motion (CW or CCW. After the gear pops out, you spin the lever in the opposite direction (if down is CW, spin it cw). Then have someone push the up button. This resynchs the gears. Now, when you spin the transmission to re-synch the two sides all motions must be similar to when you're pushing the button up. When you reassemble the the joints, you must do it with the top in the down position.

-Mark

Thanks for your input Mark! Since I am upgrading to the newer style transmission, though, I won't have to do all that, I just have to make sure that the two V levelers are synched, right?

The new transmissions should never come off gear, so they should be able to move at all times. The passanger side already does that, as it is the new style (with old cable and bolts, but nevertheless the new transmission style) :)

Thanks!

Is it possible that your half-moon gear on your driver's side has gone to the end of its travel as a result of you pushing the button and that it is thus so out of synch that it keeps "popping" because it has reached past the last tooth on the half-moon gear?

I would reccommend unbolting and taking apart the two transmissions (only three small phillips-head screws and a plastic cover plate) and then matching up the "faulty" (driver's side in your case) half moon gear to the correct distance of travel that is showing up on the psgr side half-moon gear. It's a simple matter to remove the two transmissions and then, with the psgr side cable disconnected from the motor, use the button in the correct direction (up or down) to get the driver side half-moon gear to the correct spot.

Then put everything back together and see if both sides work in synchronicity.

It's worth a shot before you go to the expense and extra work involved in putting in the new style transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for your thoughts, 1schoir. Unfortunately the problem is deeper than a simple out of synch issue. I posted my findings here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry75534

I will updated that post as I move forward. Right now I am waiting for the parts to arrive.

The problem is far more serious than I was hoping, but fixable, I think.

I took off the V levelers on both sides. The passanger side has been updated with the new style transmission, however (I can't believe they did this!) the bolts are from the old style transmission and it is wabbling. The cable is also the old style. Now on to the driver's side... Two out of three bolts are broken. The metal around one of the screw holders is broken (because of the pushrods forcing, etc). The entire transmission is moving all over the place and the cable seems to be too short.

I ordered the new style transmissions (both sides, just to be on the safe side) off of eBay. The guy charged me $450 for both transmissions, cables, and bolts. They are not new, but pulled from a 00 or 01 wrecked car. I talked to my neighbor (who loves working on cars and has a whole bunch of SnapOn tools and such) and he looked at the damage and said he should be able to fix the metal holes by welding a few small stripes of metal around the screw housing. Then I will use 2.5 - 3 inch screws to pull the side of the car to the right position (right now the screws are pointing upwards instead of horizontal) and then use the correct bolts, transmissions, and cables to hook everything back together. I will take some pictures and post them here and I will let you know how it comes out.

Hopefully it will work ;)

I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up).

why? if they are working i would leave them alone. if one (or both) of them break, then i would replace them.

update: (just read your other thread). if the half-moon gear keeps coming off, then yeah, it might be wise to replace them.

Yea, one of the old gears is 'weak' - it keeps popping... I am not sure why, but it looks like the passenger side is strong, it could almost pull everything on its own, but the driver side can't keep up, and that's what is causing the problem. I found the newer transmissions (pair) on eBay for $500, pulled from a MY00 or MY01. It looks like a good deal, because Sunset charges $368 a piece just for the transmission, plus I have to get the bolts and cables separately (another $75 or so for all of them). I don't even want to know what my local dealer charges - perhaps somewhere around $500 a piece and $100 for each cable (I'll ask, just out of curiosity).

Thanks

I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up). I know I will need to switch the transmissions, cables, and mounting bolts. Is there anything else that I need to replace? I ordered new push rods (with white plastic) and I am planning on using the existing pushrods for the clamshell.

What do I have to do once I install the new transmissions, other than align the two sides to be synchronized?

Thanks!

I have the opportunity to get 18" rims with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires at a reasonable price. I own a 98 Boxster with standard (16"??) rims. These 18" rims are part numbers 987 362 136 00 / HLB 8Jx18 ET 57 and 987 362 138 00 / HLB 9Jx18 ET 43

Would they fit on my Boxster? Do I need anything extra (spacers, etc) or is it just a simple swap?

TIA!

Does anyone know? I would hate to get them and realize they don't fit or that I need something else.

On a related note - if I get new wheels do I have to do an alignment as well? What about if I swap wheels with the old ones - would I have to re-align the car again?

Thanks

Thanks Chris,

I ordered 2 push rods from Sunset Imports. Suncoast never returned my call and Autohaus does'nt carry those parts. They are $42 and change each, I should get them in 5-6 days. They did not ask me left or right, I assume the push rods are the same for both sides, right?

The push rods at first glance appear to be the same, but there is actually a difference in the part of the pushrod (the solid round metal arm) that attaches with the clip (i.e., NOT the ball/socket end). Make sure that you replace the correct part on each side.

Part #:

passenger side: 986 561 579 00

driver side : 986 561 580 00

Regards, 1schoir

I think Mustang66 was referring to the other push rods, the ones with the white ball on the end. Those are $42.41 at Sunset. I know because I just ordered two. These are the same for both sides. The other push rods (the ones that connect to the clam shell) ARE different and the part numbers provided by 1schoir are correct. Those are about $60-some dollars at Sunset, but I think Mustang needs the same ones I ordered.

Anyone from Columbus, OH know of an independent shop with a good Porsche mechanic? Not looking for anything in particular, just general - oil change, maintenance, etc.

Thanks!

I have the opportunity to get 18" rims with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires at a reasonable price. I own a 98 Boxster with standard (16"??) rims. These 18" rims are part numbers 987 362 136 00 / HLB 8Jx18 ET 57 and 987 362 138 00 / HLB 9Jx18 ET 43

Would they fit on my Boxster? Do I need anything extra (spacers, etc) or is it just a simple swap?

TIA!

I opened up the recepticle and it turns out that a piece was broken. The broken piece is a white plastic 'gate' element, which holds a metal ball in place. The broken plastic piece was stuck and the wheel didn't move. I removed the broken plastic piece, removed the ball, and put the recepticle back in. The seat belt works fine now. What is the purpose of that ball?

I also noticed when I had everything apart that the electric connection is NOT connected to anything. It comes from under the carpet, then connects to the plug on the bottom of the side, but then the top connection is tucked behind the foam / carpet on the side. I didn't see another connection anywhere near the seat belt to plug it in - anyone know where this wire goes to?

Thanks.

Hello all,

My lovely wife took my 98 Boxster for a spin today and she came home with the driver's seatbelt all messed up... It won't go back in the recepticle, it is loose. How can I make it retract?

Thanks!

to remove the V-lever, you just need to remove that big bolt right in the middle of the V-lever. i can't remember what size socket to use, but if you have a set just try some until you find one that fits. you said that one of the balls on one of the V-levers doesn't pop out, so look at the back of that ball/V-lever to see how the ball is held on, and then compare that to the one that's popping out. you might need to order a new ball for that V-lever, or a new V-lever if the ball's threads are stripped.

as for the red connector popping off (i understand you have replaced with the metal ones), the only thing i can think of is that because of the bent push-rods, it is somehow working that connector off of the ball when it moves. i would buy new push-rods and try those.

the other possibility is that the metal connector is not 'snapped' on to the ball enough. it is possible that because of the metal construction, there is no 'flex' in the material to allow it to envelope the ball the way the plastic connectors do.

first thing i would do is buy new push-rods. i wouldn't want to take a chance with the old ones. the potential for costly damage is too high.

Agreed. I will get the push rods first and take it from there. Do you know the part number by chance and where I could get them cheaper? Or is the local dealer the only option?

Thanks again,

Julian.