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tah

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Everything posted by tah

  1. Well I got the CQLight kit today and seem to have a problem. If I understand correctly things should go in this order.......... Vehicle----Capacitor----Ballast----Igniter----Bulb But........the Capacitor has two plugs keyed differently. In other words it plugs into the Vehicle side fine but not the ballast side. If I leave out the capacitor the vehicle plug fits into the ballast plug fine. I don't plan to "leave out" the capacitor so I sent CQLights the issue. Anyone else seen this?
  2. Guess what, this is EXACTLY what I did yesterday. I didn't think I'd ever get an answer here and finally got a decent picture of both bulb bases. Didn't look like they would fit the same connectors so I ordered the CQ Lights 5000K complete kit. Thanks for the advice anyway, sounds like the best idea. (especially since that's what I decided ;) )
  3. I need to replace the 350Z bulbs with H7's. Seeing prices all over the place from $30 to $120 each. Any suggestions or recommendations? Also do the DS2 and the H7 fit the same connector/socket? I don't have a H7 here to compare. Thanks.........
  4. I just bought a clear set of used headlights with the 350Z conversion kit. This includes the "modified" back plates with the ballasts mounted. Here's my problem....... I'm not sure what bulbs are in the assembly and can't find any measurements/specs online to easily identify them, but they DO NOT aim correctly. They were REALLY high when I installed them so I adjusted them down to a somewhat reasonable level. Now the entire light (inside the assembly) is so low that my high beams are worthless. They're pointing at the road barely ahead of the car and the HID's are still a little high. No one here doing the H7 HID conversion has indicated they have a problem like this. Does this sound like I need the H7's and might have the D2R or D2s in there now? If so can I just change the bulb or will I need to modify the harness or ballast? Thanks for any help..........
  5. I guess I should have posted this question there. I have read that thread in it's entirety before and although the 350z kit is mentioned, no long-term reports are there. I did put this question there........ Thanks, Tim Maybe an Admin would want to delete this thread?
  6. Anyone run the 350z kit for an extended time yet? I'm getting some clear headlights for my 97 which include the 350z backplate conversion as well as all the OEM pieces. I just don't want to spend this kind of money and get "browning" on my lenses. Thanks, Tim
  7. I'm getting a set of 01+ S clear ( non-amber ) headlights for my 97 Boxster. Included is the 350z conversion, backplates with the ballasts mounted and the bulbs used in the 350. My question.........anyone used this setup for any length of time? The last thing I want to do is spend this kind of money and have "browning" in the lenses. Any experience or advice appreciated...... Thanks...........
  8. Well I used some Castrol, GTX of course? Anyone installed one of these lately? The O rings are a sort of light brown almost tan color. I say the "rings" because the lower neck (not the bellows) where it goes into the case looks like three rings or a ribbed sleeve resembling three rings. Anyway It wouldn't "slide right in" so I got it started then tightened the two 10mm mount bolts underneath until flush. Looks like the third ring (or 1/3 of the sleeve) is visible outside the engine opening. Seems to be pretty square so I'm not too worried. Anyone know what the three fittings do? I know the J tube feeds air to the breather, but that leaves the lower bellows, the lower neck to engine case, and the passenger side hose that attaches like the J tube. Just wondering where the most pressure exists or if there is really any to speak of.
  9. Read Mike Focke's write-up on this procedure and am in the middle of the project.............. According to him I need to get the "Kluber Syntheso Glep, Porsche Part # 000.043.204.68" to grease the O rings. Is this something I HAVE to have or will a substitute work? In the past on O rings I've just used white lithium grease or motor oil (applied sparingly). Thanks...........
  10. Thanks, just what I was looking for..........
  11. Here's my question......How do I get to the bottom tube where it enters the motor? The whole reason for changing these (according to Sunset) is the 97 had a felt seal at the case and the new hose has an O ring. I'm in the middle of this project right now on a 97, doing the AOS, Coolant Tank...etc. The guys at Sunset suggested I do the oil tubes while I'm in there. No mention from them about the sock, not sure it's needed.
  12. Chris, If those are the original tires don't judge by the sidewalls alone.... Look at the bottom of the tread grooves for cracking, like that on a belt that's old. Got dinged for tires on trade when I got rid of a 300Z Turbo with only 14K miles on original tires. The dealer pointed out the dry rot cracks in the tread. Never noticed myself but wouldn't want to wipe out a choice 97 Boxster like yours pushing it around a curve............
  13. Very likely was my 986. The owner had them look at the trans, but had Import Autohouse take out the trans and send it some place in Atlanta that specializes in tip rebuilds. Being as it was so low miles, he did not a core swap. While at Auto House, they drove it into a curb, so the front bumper cap had to have a re-spray. Not too much to say there. It looks fine, but still. The owner just wanted to get rid of it, so I was qouted what the dealers would give - $18.5K. An offer I could not refuse... I have not spent too much time at Euroclassics, but I have not been impressed so far. I did stumble into a P only shop in the city - Lufteknic. They advertise in the back of Excellence and have a pretty good web site for an independent. I have an appointment 4/22 to have the brake fluid flushed and the SRS light addressed. I will circle back with my thoughts. From what little interaction I have had, they seem on top of things. Chris Yeah I would have paid that for a "new" 97, which is essentially what you have. Euroclassics would have tried to get only God knows what for that car, I shudder to think about it. Just an FYI: Import Autohouse and Euroclassics are the same folks. Same owner..... Let me know how it goes with the Independent.........
  14. That's why I asked if he bought from the dealer or the owner. Euroclassics here in Richmond is INSANE on their used prices. They were sometimes higher by 5K than ANYONE in the country listed on cars.com for the same model/years/miles.....etc. In other words apples to apples comparisons. When asked why they were so high I got the old "we pick our cars to be the finest available, nicer than other's offerings...blah, blah, blah.." I pulled out some cars.com listings for $5,000 less and asked him how he knew his cars were nicer than the ones listed in California. For some strange reason the bull**** machine couldn't produce at that moment. I'll go there when I have to, but I sure don't go unless it's an undeniable, must have today, porsche part only situation. I seem to have a strong reaction to pure unadulterated greed.
  15. Chris, I think I saw your car in the dealer (Euroclassics) back in October/November. Did you buy from them or the private owner? They were working on the tranny then. If you find a good independent here in Richmond, please share with me. There's a Porsche club here (they call themselves that) called the "First Settlers Club". I can't get ANY response from them to allow me to post on their forum and ask for an independent. I bought a 97 with 42K on it from a retired American Airlines Mechanic in Chesterfield (the Highlands).
  16. Hope no one takes this personally............. I too have the "intermittent" window drop problem. Key word being "intermittent". When I started asking questions everyone said regulator. I think that's because it's the stealerships answer to everything. Only one problem, the regulator is mechanical and mechanical items are rarely intermittent. They pretty much work or don't. After MANY discussions as to why I thought the way I did I finally found out there is a switch inside the door interior handle assembly. This assembly has to be replaced in it's entirety unless you can disassemble and replace some very tiny microswitches. I've gotten the assembly from Sunset Porsche but haven't had the time to install. Another test......do the windows drop the same amount when unlatching the top? If so, the regulator is doing what it's being told to do. If it does it's job sometimes, and sometimes it doesn't.......guess what? It's not the regulator it's something switching or not switching and a signal either being received erroneously or a needed signal not being received.
  17. Where did the pictures go? I only see the "edited" line on the first posts.
  18. Thought I'd check back in. Made the Florida trip and the car was great. Turns out I carried the tools for nothing, but still felt better knowing I had them. Some A$$h01e backed into ny car and left a very nice dent over the driver rear wheel arch. Got it fixed by one of those paintless dent guys and it's got a little orange peel feel but I can certainly live with it for now. They worked the dent from the taillight opening and now one of my parking lights is intemittent. Took the housing off and jiggled the harness and the light comes back to life. Not sure if it's the bulb or wires, have to troubleshoot that. Also suspect I need a new ignition switch. Sometimes when I turn the key the starter hasitates before turning. Sometimes when I turn the key nothing, and then when I turn it again it starts right up. Also saw the airbag light the other day for just a few seconds and then it went away. Looks like I need to look into the seatbelt buckles as mentioned elsewhere. Hope this trend of fixing things comes to a halt soon. I still need the driver door lock mechanism replaced or if I can do it, rebuilt. Looks like I got a part time hobby as well as a Boxster, but I still LOVE the car! Especially loved running through Georgia with a couple of big Mercedes 500's & 550's at 90 ~ 120 and holding my own. Not bad for a car that cost less than 25% of what they paid! Oh and BTW, I don't think the car used a DROP of oil in 3,000 miles.............
  19. I don't know the proper name for these so it's about impossible to do a search. Anyway.......mine dont line up very well and I'd like to adjust them, if I knew how. I see some hard rubber on the inside of them but dont want to just start pulling. Bentley doesn't help on this. Also my clamshell cover could use some slight adjustment, if anyone has words of advice I'd appreciate them. When the top is down the clamshell is just slightly higher in the center rear then when there is no roof under it. The leading edges need a slight tweak here and there.
  20. Got it. Now I see why the interior is relatively rattle-free even with all the plastic. These pieces go together tight!
  21. Did you read the earlier post by Glyn? I have to admit I didn't take it all in the first time I looked at the post. He says there are two switches inside the handle assembly. I would sure like to look here before I begin to think about a computer or motherboard, wouldn't you?
  22. Got the parts from Sunset today. Just to be clear, the lighter/switch panel simply pulls out from the dash? I've got plastic pry tools but sure don't feel like breaking anything. Thanks.
  23. Well the switch wasn't the (entire) problem. Looks like the gremlin's alive and kicking. My problem would disappear for a few days and then just as suddenly reappear. Looks like I installed the switch during one of the good periods and thought it was the fix I was looking for. Now I don't know where to start, unless to take apart the handle completely as suggested earlier by Glyn I get different symptoms when operating the interior door release vs the exterior handle. Also when I was inside the door, I couldn't really see how both handles would activate/deactivate the same switch. Hope someone has been further down this road than me and can shed a little more light...........
  24. Got the switch from Sunset (as well as a few other items), great outfit to deal with. Followed the door disassembly linked to earlier in this thread, and amazingly enough didn't break anything. Pulled the foam off from behind the handle area and found my switch wires were dangling freely. The new switch wire had two snap in retainers so I had to figure out where they went. Figured it out by finding the old broken ones. A small flat blade screwdriver easily popped the old switch loose and the new one simply snaps into two mount holes. Routed the wiring correctly, plugged into the harness, reassembled the door and done! I suspect the window going up and down was rubbing on the unattached wiring and introduced an intermittent state. Anyway, if you're handy at all this is a cheap fix when compared to letting the dealer do the whole assembly. Kind of tight in there, but real easy on the wallet!
  25. Thought about doing the AOS, but wanting to wait until a few months down the road. Just changed the oil and don't really feel like dropping the oil pan just yet. Is this something that definately will go bad and is just a matter of time? Or have some folks never had a problem?
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