mustang66

You guys are right, it's not a big deal to change the oil and oil filter on my 97 Boxster. I watched the mechanic do it. There is no splash shield to remove, the oil filter and drain plug are right there once the car is lifted. My mechanic did not have the exact oil filter wrench (74mm w/14 flats). He used one of those clamps and got filter casing off after a little strugle. The rest is pretty much straight forward. I think I will do the next oil change myself. Is it better to jack the car up and put 4 jack stands or build some ramps out of two 2x10's? If I use ramps, I should use 4 ramps for all 4 wheels, right? To keep the car level for better draining of the oil, right? Any suggestions? I feel much better now knowing the oil is clean. The baby really running smooth. Thanks agin for the help. Mustang66

Thanks Maurice, David & everyone, You guys are really helpful, with all the info and encouragement for this new Boxster owner. I am still waiting for the parts. I will see if I feel up to to the challenge when I get the parts. I plan to change the air filters myself. The oil change is a little more work. Maybe because I am getting a little older and lazier. I will see how much this local mechanic will charge for his labor and use of his lift. I will be there working with him but I will not get dirty and will not have to worry about getting rid of the dirty oil. If I keep this car, I probably will do it myself eventually. I will report back. Thansk to all again... Mustang66

Thanks Loren and David, Sorry for the late reply, been on vacation and busy with some stuff. Finally got back to this business. Ordered the oil filter, crush ring, engine air filter and cabin airfilter from Sunset Porsche early this week, should get them next week. I was tempted to do the first oil change myself but I thought may be I can watch my local mechanic do it first. Maybe next time I can do it. I guess I can jack up the car and put 4 jack stands or use the two 2x10 method. I printed the instructions just in case if the mechanic needs it. My friend reccommended this guy who has worked on Porsches before. I wonder if he has the right oil filter wrench. I will try to look for one myself, in case I will do this in the future. I saw that some others are having trouble getting a metal one from the dealer. I will call my local dealer or visit my local auto part stores. I think a metal one is probably better, right? I will try to locate some Mobile 1 0W-40. I actually have a lot of 0W-20, is that good? I live in New Jersey, most drivings are in nice warm weather, local leasure driving, about 4000 miles/year. Any help with the engine and cabin oil change is appreciated. My 97 Boxster has about 29,000 miles. According one maintenance schedule I saw, I suppose to change both the cabin and engine filters. The cabin filter is over $55, I probably don't need to change it because most of my driving is with the top down anyway. I don't need to filter the air coming into the cabin, right? Anyway, I will do it this time. Again, thanks for you help. A new Boxster owner.

Hi Folks, I purchased a 97 Boxster with about 24,000 miles last year, put in about 4,000. The dealer who sold me the car said they changed the oil. I asked if it was synthetic, they said yes. I am asking you experienced Boxster owners out there what I should do in terms of maintenance at this time. I could think of changing the oil and air filter, not sure what else should be done. My second question is how difficult is it to perform these maintenance tasks. I am a fairly good mechanic and have worked on many front engine cars over the years, including oil change and other maintence tasks. I read the post on getting the top to the service position and open the engine cover. I assume I need to put the car on ramps to change the oil. A detailed step-by-step on changing the oil and other maintence that can be done by a home mechanic would be really helpful. I am a little surprise to see that there is no such DIY post in this forum. I tried to post this in the DIY Maintenance forum but it did not work. Am I missing something? Any help is appreciated.

hey dan, as i posted in my thread "windows going up on their own", i think your suggestion to check the door lock switch solved my problem. just to have the same info on this thread, here's what i did. i took dan's suggestion to check the door lock switch. since i drive my boxster for pleasure only, i hardly lock my car and i never used the "hold down the key" method to lock/open my windows. so i thought i would just exercise that switch to see if it may be sticky or something. i turned it both directions about 10 times, each time holding it down. i did that on both doors, they both have the same feature. well, i am happy to report that after that exercise, my windows are not coming up on their own anymore. it's been a couple of days, the problem would have came up by now. i guest a word of advise is to exercise that switch once in a while to prevent what happened to me. thanks again dan. you saved me some time and $ from not repairing/replacing the windshield microswitch. later. mustang66

hey folks, here is the latest on my mysterious windows problem. i pm'ed helpful renntech member dan hinkebein for help since he previously posted a similiar problem. he kindly pm'ed me back the following which i thought may be helpful for others. -------------------------- Mustang66, I posted the following in the thread also. I don't think the problem your having would be with the top micro switches because the windows are going all the way down. The first switch, when activated, only drops the windows far enough to allow the top to open. My thought would be that you have a short in the switch in your drivers door. The key lock in the door has a switch that allows you to raise of lowwer the windows from outside the car. If you turn the key counter-clockwise to unlock the doors and hold it a few seconds, the windows will go down. If you turn the key clockwise to lock the doors and hold it a few seconds the windows will go up. That's the switch I would check out. I think that by inserting somthing into the latch your over riding the command sent by the door switch causing the windows to stop. Kind of like if you press the window switch once to start the auto down then press it again and the window stops. Dan ------------------------------- i took dan's suggestion to check the door lock switch. i drive my boxster for pleasure only, i hardly lock my car and i never used the "hold down the key" method to lock/open my windows. so i thought i would just exercise that switch to see if it may be sticky or something. i turned it both directions about 10 times, each time holding it down. i did that on both doors, they both have the same feature. well, i am happy to report that after that exercise, my windows are not coming up on their own anymore. it's been a couple of days, the problem would have came up by now. i guest a word of advise is to exercise that switch once in a while to prevent what happened to me. thanks to all the help, hope i would'nt have to come back to this thread with anymore bad news. thanks 1schoir for the plastic clip info. that's good to know. i learned a lot from u guys. later. mustang66

hey dan, i have a 97 boxster. i openned a thread "Side Windows Come Up By Themselves" a few days ago (8/1/07). now after input from some helpful members like 1schoir and some other research, i think my erratic window behaviors are due to the latch microswitch. 1schoir pointed me over to your thread, i just want to bounce my problem off of you and may be get some advice. if you like more details, please read my thread. it's not that long. basically, i have a problem with both (or sometimes just one) of my side windows would come all the way up on their own, while i am idling, driving or even parked, without me touching any of the buttons. this happens only when my top is all the way down. i can push the buttons to bring the windows down with no problem but after a few minutes, they would go up on their own again. they would just stay up. after i suspected the latch microswitch, i openned the cover and inspected the switch. actually, technically there are 2 micrswitches within the swich (i think you mentioned that). one is red, it get depressed first after a mm or so when the hook first enter the latch. the second one is black, that gets depressed when the hook is all the way inside the latch. i am able to stop the windows from going up by sticking a piece of soft plastic into the latch. i tried a smaller piece just to get the first click (the red microswitch) but that did not work. i had to use a bigger piece of plastic so that i hear the second click (the black microswitch), that stops the windows immediately. i touched the 2 metal strips and the 4 soldering joints, i did not see any looseness. i did see some varnish like deposit on the soldering join you mentioned in you thread. here are my choices: 1. keep the plastic in the latch when i have the top down. when i put the top up, everything is fine. 2. buy a new latch switch 3. repair my existing switch (here is where i need help from you dan) i am fairly handy but i am not a mechanic by profession, do you think i can do the testing and repair like you did? may be if you give me a detailed step-by-step, i can see if i can meet the challenge. someone said he just heated up the solder joins for a few second and that did the job. the metal strips are so close together, i am afraid if i heat one up, the solder would run over to the next join. before i do anything, after hearing my symptoms, do you think it is the latch microswitch? the switch is definitely related because i can stop the problem by sticking in a piece of plastic but it could be a software problem where porsche can just re-program it or something, could that be possible? thanks dan in adavce or anyone else who can help me save a few dollars from not going to the dealer. later.

hey 1schoir, thanks for the quick response. before i read your reply, i actually did open the cover and looked at the microswitch. it looks fine to my eyes. i like to go over to dan's thread and ask more questions about testing it. i also confirmed that this switch is definitely related to my window problems. when i started the car & idled with the top down for a few minutes, both windows began to come up on their own without me touching anything. i stick my finger all the way into the latch microswitch, the windows would immediately stop. as soon as i took my finger out, they started to go up again. in the mean time, i made a small piece of soft plastic and stuck it in the switch. now i will see if the strange window behaviors would go away. i know that's not fixing the problem, just going around it, but if it works and if repairing or replacing the switch is too much, i may just keep that piece of plastic there when i have the top down. thanks again. may be see you over at dan's thread. i will be back here to close out this thread, one way or another.

thanks 1schoir. for confirming that there is probably no other micro switches that effect the windows. i begin to think its the latch micro switch as well. i plan to take off the cover and see how the switch looks like. if it is complicated, i will need help. if you don't mind, find me the post(s) about repairing that switch, it would be great. i can also confirm that the swicth is the problem by driving around with the top down but stick something in the latch micro switch to make it think the top is up and the hook is in. if the windows do not go up erratically, then it must be the switch, right? i have not been driving around with the top up much but i am pretty sure when the top is up, everything is normal. now i know what the 2 lenses behind the window buttons are for, i don't have seat warmers. thanks again 1schoir. i'll be back to report.

hi azzar0, my "top open" light on the dash board goes away as soon as the top and clamshell are fully down and the drive motor stops. thats the way it should, right? i tried re-programming the window as you suggested. i did it with the top down and again with the top up, does not seem to make any difference. is this re-programming method in the owners manual? another clue to my problem is that both my windows go up fully when the top is fully down and the dash board light goes off. i don't remember that before i fixed my push rods. all you long time 97 boxster owners out there, does your windows start to go fully up when the top reaches its fully down position? does anyone know if there are sensors in the transmissions (that pushes the top and clamshell up and down)? could it be that my transmission(s) is not in the correct position so that the sensor(s), if there is any, is making the windows go up. one more symptom, when i am driving with the top down, my windows (some times both, mostly the driver side only) would go up on their own randomly. could this be a sensor problem or could it be an electrical problem. would a short of some sort cause the windows to go up? the previous owner put in such elaborate speaker systems, the doors were really worked on to get all the wiring and speakers in. if this is not related to my convertible top repair, it would be a real coincidence for the windows to act up just as i have troble with the top push rods. another question: the 2 infra red eyes on top of the winshield right next to the light and the hinge where the top catches on, what should be in there? my plastic lenses fell off, i looked inside, i don't see anything that looks like sensors. looks like an empty bracket. is that for cars with alarms only? i don't have an alarm. it is not for sensors related to windows, is it? there is 2 such infra red lenses in the middle console by the parking brake as well. what are they for? i did not open them up and look. are they used for windows? i am a little frustrated here. any help is appreciated.

hi folks, i just replaced both push rods for the top (see my thread started july 22, Broken Push Rod ...). the top is working fine, thanks to a lot of help from this forum, but now my side windows are going up on their own. i notice the following pattern so far: 1. when i put the convertible top all the way down. both side windows immediately go all the way up (i don't remember that before i repaired the top). sometimes only the driver side would go up. 2. i pressed both buttons to get both windows all the way down, drive around with the top down, in about 5 minutes, both windows would go all the way up on their own. 3. after step 2 above, i have not drive long enoug to see if the windows would come up again. 4. after parking the car in the garage with the top down and both windows down, closed the door, come back in an hour or so, both windows are fully up. if i lock the car with the key, it does not happen (locking the car turn off electrical power, i think). is there a delay? is this normal? it does not happen before i fixed the top. i saw some posts regarding window problems but not like mine. i read the owners manual, did not mention anything like this. bought the used 97 boxster not long ago, really not sure how the windows should work. it is anoying to have them come up on their own when i am cruising with the top down. it does not seem to come up when i am driving with the top up. i am sure you experienced owners have some explanation for me. looking forward to hear from you. mustang66

hi chris, i replaced the push rods yesterday before i got to read your last post. the good news is everything seems to be WORKING so far. first i want to thank you and all the members for the help. here's what i did: 1. i received the 2 push rods with the white connectors from sunset imports yesterday. just like they said about 5 days. they look just like the pic chris posted. $42.91 a piece plus shipping about $8. 2. i decided to replace only the end part of the push rod, the part with the plastic connect, held on to the main part of the push rod with a single bolt. it is just being lazy and the existing main part of the push rod seems to be ok. i did not want to mess with it. 3. after replacing the passenger side broken push rod, i noticed the v-lever is completely out-of-sync with the driver side. i could not snap either (top & clamshell) connectors in. 4. i removed the passenger side cable from the motor (the square inner cable appears to be undamaged, about 1/2 inch, not 3/4 as the R&R post suggested). i attached a electric drill to the square cable that drives the passenger side transmission. tried both directions to see which way the transmission is rotating. once got the rotation correct, i ran the drill first fast then slowly to try to get the position of the v-lever to be exact mirror image of the driver side. i basically eyeballed it, going back and forth between the 2 sides. i did try to use a straight edge and a level but still basically by eye. tried my best to get them to be about the same position. at this point i re-attached the cable back on the motor. 5. i must have done a good job eyeballing because all the connectors snapped in fairly easily. here the order: a. first the passenger side push rod for the top. the top is in completely down position. i left the single bolt loose until i snapped the connector in, then i tightened the bolt. then connected the black push rod/shock absorber for the clamshell. i had to pushed the top up & down buttons lightly to get exact position to snap in the black connector. b. second the driver side. i left the original red top push rod on, it was never disconnected. i again pushed the up & down buttons lightly to get the black clamshell push rod connector back in place. at this point i tested the convertible top up and down a couple of times to see if everything is working and aligned. everything seemed to work fine. then i proceeded to replace the driver side original top push rod with the red connector that was still intact. that was pretty easy since i already done this before. That was it. other then the battery went dead on me after all the testing of the top. i am driving the car today but have not keep playing with the top yet. hope everything is ok. one thing i do noticed different is that my side windows would automatically go up after i park and turn off the car. is that a problem or is there something in the manual that would expalin that. i thought i check with you guys before i read the manual. hope i did not screw up the electrical system somehow. i am a new owner, kind of ignorant about the car. pls forgive me if it is a simple thing. thanks again for all the help, everyone! i will come back and post a status after a while, hope its a good one.

hi ischoir, thanks, i just called sunset imports to double check. it is the part i need and they told me it is called the "push rod", who knows what the official name is. may be someone has a shop manual can verify. it is part # 986 561 27902, same for left & right. it has the white plastic connector at one end and the other end has one bolt that attaches to the remaining part of the arm (or whatever you call it). that is exectly the part i took out, hopefully it will be an easy job. they told me i should get the parts this coming monday. anyone else has any more tips on this problem, pls advise. i will keep checking before start. i will let you know how i make out too. later.

hi chris, in your last post, you stressed the importance of checking the cables (which i intent to do, after i get the top working). you said: "on your car, one cable probably has the correct length, and the side that is short is the side whose red connector broke." by that, you mean if the cable is too short, the motor is not turning the transmission and therefore that side of the push rod is not really pushing the top up. so how does that cause the connector to break on that side? would the top just go up "lop sided"? unless that's how the connector gets broken. one other observation, after the connector broke, before i realized what happened and found this site, i keep pushing the up and down buttons, the transmission keep making a loud tapping noise. does that mean the cable is still working on that side? actually, after i disconnected the push rods (3 out of 4), i just wanted to see if the transmissions would turn, i push the up or down button briefly, it looks like neither transmission was turning. does that sound right? the clamshell is loose after the push rod are disconnected, i thought there might be micro switched that disable something. but i think the drive motor still goes on but i don'nt see the transmissions turning. could it be both cables broke at the same time, just after i disconnected the push rods? thanks for your patience.

i apoligize for not reading all the threads and not checking the cables, etc.. i was afraid to move the top up and down after i disconnected the push rods for the top and the clamshell (except the driver side top red push rod). i was hoping to get the 2 new push rods with the white connectors, replace them and waw-la, everything will be working. maybe i am too nieve. the push rods i ordered from sunset is $42 and change each. i really don't know what i am getting. i know the end of the push rod where the plastic connector is attached can be removed from the main part of the push rod by removing just one bolt. i actually did that already, removed that part from the passenger side, where my red connector broke. i guess i will wait for the parts to arrive and see. it's too late to call sunset, the order is enroute. if they are as good as you guys say they are, they would have asked be more questions if they did not know which part i needed. when i explained my problem, they seemed to know right away what i needed. thanks for all the feedback. when i get the part i will let you know what i got. i probably will need more help with sync'ing the transmissions later. i was too anxious and push the button too many times after the connector broke. did'nt know better. it will be a miracle if everything works after replacing the push rods. stay tune.

Thanks Chris, I ordered 2 push rods from Sunset Imports. Suncoast never returned my call and Autohaus does'nt carry those parts. They are $42 and change each, I should get them in 5-6 days. They did not ask me left or right, I assume the push rods are the same for both sides, right? Couple of more questions in preparation for the replacement operation: 1. I don't see the broken off red plastic joint, it's not attached to the metal ball of the top mechanism and it is not on the push rod. It must have split in half and felt down somewhere. Should I try to find it? Will it cause jamming problems? I did not disconnect the driver side push rod and put the top up manually because I did not want to disturb the driver side transmission. I plan to use that to line/sync up with the passenger side, the problem side. 2. If I don't have to worry about finding the broke off piece, my plan is as follows: a. Rotate the passenger side transmission plate manually and align the positions of the V-levers (I think that's what they are called), one for the clamshell (black shock absorber) and one for the top (new push rod with white connector), to be mirror image of the driver side transmission plate. How do I do it other then by eye, I am not sure. You mentioned someone use a level, I am not sure how a level can be used. I probably will use a tape measure to measure distances for corresponding parts on both sides or something like that. b. Once I am satisfied with the transmission plat alignment, I will reconnect (snap in, any tricks to do that) the old black clamshell shock absorber first. I probably have to put some weight on the clamshell to keep it completely close first. c. Then I will reconnect the new top push rod (the top is completely down). d. Another question: If the top and the clamshell are both in the completely down/closed positions, is it not true that there is only one position the transmission's rotation can be at, so that we can reconnect the clamshell and top connectors? So, I can not really be out of sync with the undisturbed driver side transmission, right? Or am I not understanding something. Thank you in advance to Chris and anyone else who can help me with this project so that I can enjoy my toy again. I have not been driving it because my fear of disturbing the transmission alignments, rattling of the disconnected parts, etc.

hi chris, thanks again for your quick reply. i will take your advise and purchase a new push rod with the new white plastic connector, questions: 1. only the passenger side broke, can i just replace that one push rod and leave the driver side (old red plastic) alone? 2. where should i order the new push rod? 3. regarding transmissions sync: i did not disconnect the driver side push rod for the top (red connector), just the black push rod for the clam shell cover so that i can open the clam shell. my plan is as follows: after i replace the broken passenger side push rod, i can manually rotate to passenger side transmission so that the 2 push rod positions matches that of the driver side transmission (which should be in correct position since i never disconnected the red push rod on that side). at that time, i can reconnect all the connectors on both sides. then try pushing the close-roof button slowly to see if the clam shell and the roof would come up evenly on both sides. is that a good plan?

hi chris_in_NH, i just started a new thread per your suggestion. would you mind repost your answers to my questions over there? for the benefit of others? thanks for the quick reply. i will continue over at the other thread.

hi tool pants, i have a 97 boxster and my passenger side red plastic connector just broke. i was able to remove the end part of the push rod with the broken plastic connector by unsrewing the single bolt. 1. you mentioned that someone makes a metal connector instead of plastic, can you tell me where to order one? i assume that's better then the plastic. 2. once i have the new connector, can i just screw it onto the old arm and snap it back on the ball? any other tricks/steps? 3. do i need to worry about timing of the transmissions when i put everything back? i did not unsnap the driver side red plastic connector for the top, just the connector for the cover. does that mean the timing is still good? thanks in advance. my first repair on the boxster, any help is appreciated.

hi tool pants, i have a 97 boxster and my passenger side red plastic joint just broke. i was able to remove the arm with the broken plastic joint by unsrewing the single bolt. 1. you mentioned that someone makes a metal joint instead of plastic, can you tell me where to order one? i assume that's better then the plastic. 2. once i have the new joint, can i just screw it onto the old arm and snap it back on the ball? any other tricks/steps? 3. do i need to worry about timing of the transmissions when i put everything back? i did not unsnap the driver side red plastic joint for the top, just the joint for the cover. does that mean the timing is still good? thanks in advance. my first repair on the boxster, any help is appreciated.