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Posts posted by hpjay
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As suggested by other owners, I put a small piece of foam rubber in the opening and it dampened the sound to the point it cannot be heard. A lot less expensive than replacing the valve.
Henry Jay
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Look under passenger side at the transaxle and make sure both shift cables are properly seated in the U shaped clips. If either cable has come loose you can have the issues you are describing. Forks are #12 in illustration and are bolted to side of transaxle. You will need to lift the car to see this. You might be able to see through RR wheel well after taking the wheel off.
Henry Jay
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If you don't mind my asking, where did you source a mount for $194?
Thanks
HJ
Does anyone have detailed instructions? It looks fairly straighforward, but I don't see how I can get it out without removing the radiator hoses. MY99. While we're at it, has anyone found the mount for less than $194?TIA,
John
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I had the same thing happen to me.
The clips used to lock the cable were bent.
Bought new ones and installed.
Not a very robust design IMHO.
I now safety wire the cables as a precaution.
Henry Jay
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I have a gray top but the liner is black, 2000S
Henry Jay
Does anyone know if the Liners came in diff colors? (ie) Black top Black liner, or Gray top with Gray liner?Mike
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CV boot replacment is not too difficult if you can jack up the vehicle , use jack stands and have a reasonable set of tools.
I just re-boooted all (4) in 2-3 hours. AJ-usa sells boot kits for $15-16 each, you need (4). $63 for all.
Respectable independent garage quoted $225 for replacing (1) inside boot.
Watch out for price gouging for the boot kits. I was quoted $45 for the $15 part from a local parts house.
Look on the various internet sites for detail.
The hardest part is to remove the axle nut, however a quality 1/2 impact wrench will do the job. Need an Air compressor though. You can rent the 1/2 inch impact.
$450 will buy an air compressor and some other tools as well LOL.
Henry Jay
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Engine_Noise.WAV
Hi all, sorry I have to introduce myself with this kind of thread but I am stuck with this one. Reversed into a car and engine now makes this noise.
Can you identify it. Any ideas welcome.
Sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. You may have bent one of the exhaust manifolds enough to allow a leak at the cylinder head.
Should be easy to identify after lifting the car and looking closely at each cylinder/manifold joint with the engine running and it is cold. This way you can feel around the joints for the gas pressure. Besure to use jack stands!
Henry Jay
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I told him your car would not rev past 2,000 rpm. You disconnected the sensor and the car ran fine. You then replaced 986 606 125 00 with the superseded part 986 606 125 01. No reprogram is required for this swap per Peter. You car still has the same problem. Is this correct?[/i]
HJ this is correct
You did not say if you unplugged the new sensor and tried the car. But try that to test the seat of the pants theory.
Same results with either MAS sensor
The most unusual thing is that if you do not start the car with the key (ie do not initiate the start mode) the DME recognizes the MAF and runs fine. I tried this several times to verify. Requires a rolling start using the clutch.
I have an appointment with the dealer next week. Sure hope it is not the DME as I expect this item is very costly.
Henry Jay
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Ok more data points
Read manual and followed procedure for power up from "dead Battery"
"turn key on for run 1 minute, turn off for at least 10 sec. to reinitialize DME and e-gas throttle.”
No change..still will not rev beyond 1-2 K with no power.
PPBBer Bill-MA suggested coast @ 15MPH, switch off
Then switch on and bump start.
Seems to come out of limp home mode and run as expected
Until you start with key switch than it is back to the 2K problem
Seems that something in the start mode is causing the problem
What continues to baffle me is
1) Why it will not go into the limp home mode with MAF connected
2) Why no CEL are being shown
Well it looks increasing like a trip to the dealer is going to be required.
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Sorry I have this dyslexia problem with 968 986/
HJ
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My original PN was 986.606.125.00
Has been superceeded with
986.606.125.01
Per dealer and Pelican
HJ
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More MAF DME problem
Now I am really getting irritated.
Toolpants…time to put the thinking cap on.
Background 2000 3.2 S suddenly went from running great to no revs past 2K
Replaced MAF with new ($270 from Sunset w/PCA discount).
Newest updated version 968.606.125.01
No change.
Still will not rev beyond 2K with MAF pluged in.
Unplugged, runs as expected in limp home mode.
Disconnected battery to reset all electronics, no effect.
Start car with MAF unplugged, then plug in. Engine takes a big hickhup then continues to run.
Drive for a few miles …just fine but still in limp home mode.
Turn off and restart ...same problem
Measurements 5 v on DME feed, Batt voltage on red/blue feed.
3-4 ohms on sensor term 3 & 5.
Unable to read DME codes until I get a ISO ODB2 reader. My Novus reader can not read ISO protocol.
Open for any suggestions.
Henry Jay
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MAF update
Cleaning did no god.
Took Highlander’s advice and left MAF unplugged
Car runs fine
Plug it in and symptoms return.
FYI the car will run fine with out MAF plugged in
Down on power and seems to have some “indecision” when changing from closed loop to open loop. Certainly drivable and capable of getting home. In fact I pulled the DME fuse to reset CEL and drove 5-6 miles with no CEL light.
Still have to wonder if messing around with the HVAC diagnostic readout caused the failure or is it a coinkydink?
Henry Jay
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Help with a problem
- 2000 Boxster S w/ 57K
- Ran fine, left parked for 4 days
- While parked accessed the HVAC diagnostic and cycled through the menus with key on, engine off.
- Went to drive the next day and car starts but will not rev beyond 2K and has no power
- Barely able to get back into my garage
- Check engine light came on only after a few minutes of running, on constantly now
- Can press accelerator to the floor but no response beyond a slow increase in revs to 2K
- Once the accelerator is beyond 1/8 to ¼ throttle, the motor hesitates
- Idles fine except occasionally exhibits a drop in revs.
- Cycling the AC compressor exacerbates the RPM drops
- Removed the MAF and cleaned although it was pristine wit no evidence of damage or oil film.
- Put back in, no difference.
I realize my symptoms are consistent with a failed MAS, however before spending $375 I thought I would post for suggestions. Since I had absolutely no running problems prior and the problem started immediately after accessing the HVAC menu system, is there any correlation? I had the ignition key on with engine not running for approximately 5 min. I would think that would not cause a problem.
Thanks Henry Jay
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I am trying to remove the right front strut on my 2000 Boxster S. I have every thing loose yet the strut will not drop out of the tower. I think the 3 mounting studs are binding aginst the body. Is there any trick to keeping the strut centered as it comes down?
Thanks
Henry Jay
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Naphtha as in cigerette lighter fluid
or
3M Wax and adhesive remover available from any automotive paint store.
Henry Jay
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Purchased on E-bay $190
Same dealer has new listing
Item # 7912171492
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7912171492
Received actual black Porsche version.
Henry Jay
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I can purchase a very nice 2000 Boxter S for $27500.with 55K miles
Has litronics partial leather, turbo 17” wheels.
This looks to be a very good deal.
Any opinions? Model year 2000 was the first for the S but
From what I have read, any Boxter 2000 on is mush better than the 1999
and previous
Pelican Parts - Transmision Mounts
in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Posted
Used them, no problem. Use common sense and a bench vise to R&R the mount from the bracket. Absolutely no reason Porsche expects you to pay for new brackets other than parts inventory costs. Shame on them for not going green!
HJ