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About hpjay

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 01/23/1953

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  • From
    Las Vegas Nevada
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Boxster S
    2013 Lexus RX350
    Jeep Grand Wagoneer 1989
  • Future cars
    981 S
  • Former cars
    lotz of Alfas & some Sprigits
  1. Used them, no problem. Use common sense and a bench vise to R&R the mount from the bracket. Absolutely no reason Porsche expects you to pay for new brackets other than parts inventory costs. Shame on them for not going green! HJ
  2. As suggested by other owners, I put a small piece of foam rubber in the opening and it dampened the sound to the point it cannot be heard. A lot less expensive than replacing the valve. Henry Jay
  3. Look under passenger side at the transaxle and make sure both shift cables are properly seated in the U shaped clips. If either cable has come loose you can have the issues you are describing. Forks are #12 in illustration and are bolted to side of transaxle. You will need to lift the car to see this. You might be able to see through RR wheel well after taking the wheel off. Henry Jay
  4. If you don't mind my asking, where did you source a mount for $194? Thanks HJ
  5. I had the same thing happen to me. The clips used to lock the cable were bent. Bought new ones and installed. Not a very robust design IMHO. I now safety wire the cables as a precaution. Henry Jay
  6. I have a gray top but the liner is black, 2000S Henry Jay
  7. CV boot replacment is not too difficult if you can jack up the vehicle , use jack stands and have a reasonable set of tools. I just re-boooted all (4) in 2-3 hours. AJ-usa sells boot kits for $15-16 each, you need (4). $63 for all. Respectable independent garage quoted $225 for replacing (1) inside boot. Watch out for price gouging for the boot kits. I was quoted $45 for the $15 part from a local parts house. Look on the various internet sites for detail. The hardest part is to remove the axle nut, however a quality 1/2 impact wrench will do the job. Need an Air compressor though.
  8. Sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. You may have bent one of the exhaust manifolds enough to allow a leak at the cylinder head. Should be easy to identify after lifting the car and looking closely at each cylinder/manifold joint with the engine running and it is cold. This way you can feel around the joints for the gas pressure. Besure to use jack stands! Henry Jay
  9. I told him your car would not rev past 2,000 rpm. You disconnected the sensor and the car ran fine. You then replaced 986 606 125 00 with the superseded part 986 606 125 01. No reprogram is required for this swap per Peter. You car still has the same problem. Is this correct?[/i] HJ this is correct You did not say if you unplugged the new sensor and tried the car. But try that to test the seat of the pants theory. Same results with either MAS sensor The most unusual thing is that if you do not start the car with the key (ie do not initiate the start mode) the DME recognizes the MAF an
  10. Ok more data points Read manual and followed procedure for power up from "dead Battery" "turn key on for run 1 minute, turn off for at least 10 sec. to reinitialize DME and e-gas throttle.” No change..still will not rev beyond 1-2 K with no power. PPBBer Bill-MA suggested coast @ 15MPH, switch off Then switch on and bump start. Seems to come out of limp home mode and run as expected Until you start with key switch than it is back to the 2K problem Seems that something in the start mode is causing the problem What continues to baffle me is 1) Why it will not go into the l
  11. Sorry I have this dyslexia problem with 968 986/ HJ
  12. My original PN was 986.606.125.00 Has been superceeded with 986.606.125.01 Per dealer and Pelican HJ
  13. More MAF DME problem Now I am really getting irritated. Toolpants…time to put the thinking cap on. Background 2000 3.2 S suddenly went from running great to no revs past 2K Replaced MAF with new ($270 from Sunset w/PCA discount). Newest updated version 968.606.125.01 No change. Still will not rev beyond 2K with MAF pluged in. Unplugged, runs as expected in limp home mode. Disconnected battery to reset all electronics, no effect. Start car with MAF unplugged, then plug in. Engine takes a big hickhup then continues to run. Drive for a few miles …just fine but still in limp
  14. MAF update Cleaning did no god. Took Highlander’s advice and left MAF unplugged Car runs fine Plug it in and symptoms return. FYI the car will run fine with out MAF plugged in Down on power and seems to have some “indecision” when changing from closed loop to open loop. Certainly drivable and capable of getting home. In fact I pulled the DME fuse to reset CEL and drove 5-6 miles with no CEL light. Still have to wonder if messing around with the HVAC diagnostic readout caused the failure or is it a coinkydink? Henry Jay
  15. Help with a problem - 2000 Boxster S w/ 57K - Ran fine, left parked for 4 days - While parked accessed the HVAC diagnostic and cycled through the menus with key on, engine off. - Went to drive the next day and car starts but will not rev beyond 2K and has no power - Barely able to get back into my garage - Check engine light came on only after a few minutes of running, on constantly now - Can press accelerator to the floor but no response beyond a slow increase in revs to 2K - Once the accelerator is beyond 1/8 to ¼ throttle, the motor hesitates - Idles fine except occasiona
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