WeekendWonder

No worries - actually what I mistakenly read in to your post was that if you were leaving it parked with the top down you wouldn't bother locking it... ultra-laid back kind of attitude! B) but now I understand... It does look cool on the drive sitting there in between uses with the top down on nice days , but I'd never leave it too far out of sight or over night for the good reasons you stated already.

Is it possible that the GT3 Aero kit spoiler is pushing the back down too much and consequently raising the front? Even with the hood closed I don't feel enthusiastic about going over 110/120 in this car! On P Zero Rossos with one new tyre /7mm - other 3 tyres on around 5mm. Running 32 psi rear and 30 psi front. Rims have a few scuffs from before I bought the car Some vibration starting from 80mph +. Recently went over a slight bump/ramp on a 5% upward sloping road at about 100 and the front definitely took off for a millisecond! Felt the car being pulled back on course when the tyres made contact again! Floaty steering from 110mph + My mindset is now that something isn't right at high speeds - and when it's put right there will be a huge difference! Going to get the wheels refurbed and balanced first, then if the vibrations aren't better should I look at alignment - I don't think the car pulls but the road noise is pretty bad. Any other avenues to explore? Do I need to do something to keep the front end down? Very interesting thread! :renntech:

Thanks - The wife uses the word 'interesting' when I'm boring her to tears with what I've just been doing to the car for the last 3 hours! Don't think she means it though ;) It's my first Porsche and still very much in the honeymoon period - despite realising she's got hairy legs and bad table manners.... I am trying to mould her gradually! Hope to get the essentials out of the way and start on the handling and performance shortly! I choose to lock with the top down but, I can also see the POV that it's quite futile for some siuations! Used to get a bip from just having the top down and took it to be like when you leave a window open or such-like. Had just fixed a prolem with the clamshell not pulling down enough (driving rod disconnected from securing hook on one side) hence water got in to the cabin under the back seat. Unfortunately during that process the clamshell got stuck and stopped working/got out of sync. Eventually got it to sync up again using the manual method. Since everything started working again, no more bip when just the top is open! Either the top was never properly sync'd so never got to the 'end' of its cycle or (less likely) there is a sensor telling the car how well closed the clamshell is and that wasn't quite making it because of the disconnected rod/hook. Fixing stuff by accident sure is better than breaking stuff by accident! :D

If everything else is closed except the cab top is open, do you get a bip after locking the car? I think I used to but it recently stopped!

Question for cab owners - at what speed do you get that 'floaty' effect with the top up + with it down?

Teeth were out of sync. It's OK now. :jump: Thanks for coming anyways.

I don't have any either, so I think this is common. I do have a GT3 kit but I'm not sure that it's specific to that. I think it's more to do with the fact that they might melt being near to the exhaust box's !! That's alright then :thumbup: Maybe the idea is to get heat in to the rear tyres quickly.

There are no wheel arch liners behind my rear tyres. Is this normal? Does the GT3 kit have anything to do with tihis?

Hi CabC2 Does this sound similar to you?? I'd appreciate it if you post back on your roof situation.

Any thoughts anybody? When I press the roof buttons I can hear relays clicking away and the clamshell drive motor spinning - still not moving the clamshell though. Broken teeth? Unsynced teeth? Lazy butt syndrome?

I was just fixing something else and now my roof is broken (good opener huh) The top was in service position, hood half closed, clamshell fully opened. I did my stuff, then went to close the hood, but the roof was in the mood to open first. I thought OK let it go through its cycle...but it paused for a couple of seconds after about 2 inches of opening, then paused again when it got to its highest point, then moved another 2 inches and totally stopped in a Z position. Clamshell never moved at all. Went through trying to open/close few times but it wouldn't get past the Z position when opening and the clamshell remained in the fully "open" position. When closing the roof the hook would latch on and pull the roof down no problem, but the windows (I think) were waiting for the clamshell, hence they didn't all start closing like they normally did. After getting bored I gave the clamshell a good hard shake then tried the switch. The roof opened fully and the clamshell closed over it! When I tried to shut it again got the flashing red light and nothing budged. My hunch was that everything else was functioning but was waiting for the clamshell to do its bit. Confirmed this by going in for the emergency operation (of the roof that is). When I helped the clamshell along to the right position manually the next bits would happen as expected electrically. I do have an extended warranty but the car can't go in to the OPC for over a week - and this is probably the last sunny weekend in Britain for the year! I read Izzy's hyraulic fluid fix and about the various threads about switches/lights. I'm thinking the drive to the clamshell is buggered (technical term). Any ideas guys?

When I checked out the lower trays behind the speaker I did notice a little clip on the carpet under it. When I had a look under the back of the top, I realised where the water was coming from. There is a hook either side, driven by a rod that pulls the clamshell down at the end of the hood closing cycle, forming a semi water-tight seal. The clip had come off from where it's supposed to hold the rod and the hook together, hence the hook was not being operated. The combination of this and me washing my car explains why a fair amount of water forced it's way in but not enough to fry my electrics (so far so good anyway). BUT as I was happily finishing up and closing my roof, the clamshell froze up - the soft top goes up and down to a point but I think it's waiting for the clamshell to do it's bit...which is totally stuck! Oh well better get searching the forums....why is nothing ever easy!! :cursing:.. :beer: :beer: :beer: ...aaaaah :D

Has anyone tried using a dehumidifier to dry the carpets in place instead of taking them out? It was a suggestion from the OPC.

If you have water in the boot and front footwells, then it is the FORWARD tubes that must be clogged. Hi Kim thanks very much for the reply. Forward tubes were totally blocked. Now they are cleared as far as I could see from the top. One flexi tube is completely missing and the other is not connected to the rubber part in the top. The whole "down the tube out of the wheel arch" thing is therefore not happening. It just seems to drain straight out the bottom of the car. I'm looking for either someone to say: a.) forget about it the water can't get in the cabin from there, or b.) go get some new tubes and plumb them in how they should be (which I perceive as a very fiddly job that I'd rather avoid if it's not neccessary) At the back, from the plastic trays behind the speakers and everything South, the water drains fine. My lack of understanding about what is above the speakers/under the clamshell is the problem (service diagram hasn't helped me on this). I pulled out the tube and found it clear. Plugged it back on to the spout then tested with a hose from the outside. The water MOSTLY ran down the inside of the slope in the tray rather than through the tube. Is this normal? Couldn't get the angle to see where the water was coming from. Just found THIS THREAD showing the drain holes under the clamshell. Doh! That's probably it isn't it? :blush: I'll check these tonight for any relevance to the route the water is taking in to the tray.

Get a playstation 3 and some good P-car racing games for the interim! Good luck Kim. Hope you make a good recovery. PS. Many thanks your posts have been helping me out a lot.

Thanks for the tip. When I tested it with the speaker off I saw most of the water coming down the slope of the tray rather than through the small flexi tube. Is that normal or a more sinister problem like Kim describes above? Also if you find water in the boot, driver's foot well and under the rear seat on the other side (i.e. diagonally across from each other) could they all stem from the same problem? On a positive note the hoppers drained pretty well :rolleyes: I think a GBP 70K+ car should be able to cope with a bit of water and dirt without getting it's electrics fried. :soapbox:

Photo of drip and consequent ripple effect - I'm after sympathy :help: :renntech:

The rear drainage is pretty clear but the diagram for the front is less so. :blink:

After a bit more reading I realise that the 2 rubber parts either side of the battery are in fact the drains! Still not sure what the part in the middle is but that still looks to be under the battery to me. The problem is that I haven't been able to get to the rubber drains because of the metal pipes in the way. (as shown in the top photo above brake/clutch system pipes?) So what is the correct procedure to clean these drains out? Can you pull them out with very long nosed pliers and put them back in place after cleaning? When I tried to poke a thin object in to them one got pushed through and is lost forever! Suggestions weclome!

I sprayed lots of WD40 on the moving parts and so far the noise hasn't come back (3 weeks). OPC wanted around £800 for both sides.

Thank you. :thumbup: Lots of questions on this. think mine is blocked with leaves etc. As mentioned in my thread here.

I love the wheels and you're right it's got to be worth the full treatment. 911design.co.uk under wheels/Porsche original wheels are selling a set for 1695 +VAT. Probably a lot more from an OPC. Hope I get to hire a 1.0L Micra in that plasticy white colour to get the full effect :cheers:

Hey Loren. Do you have a diagram for the front wheel well drains? Thanks in advance if you're able to help. .

After checking the issue suggested above, I tested with a hose and found a slighlty different case. It seems the problem is that water comes in through the space around the windscreen wipers spindles then it runs straight down in to the compartment where the battery is. I had a good inch of water in there! I'm guessing that once it gets to a certain height it flows over in to the boot. In case this is relevant. Behind the (UK) passenger side wheel there was a tube. I pulled this out to inspect it. It was already loose. No blockage there but it wasn't connected to the rubber hole in the cowel.