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Of course, that is one of the longer term fixes I am looking at. Just haven't found any available so far. In 2017, used cats off of a 2000 or 2001 car will likely be high mileage. (that is the year model that had my particular part numbers installed) I have found a couple of dealers who will knock down the approx $2300 per new cat price to $1600 or so. Unfortunately, none of them is in the Atlanta area, so I could run up some significant shipping costs with the cats coming to me, then the cores going back the other way.
An indy shop, Gold Crest Motors in Kennesaw, GA has worked a good deal on my car. I have never had reason to doubt their work or recommendations. They told me, "both cats have failed". I did not ask for the codes as proof. Less than 6 months ago, both O2 sensors on the left side had been replaced. By the way, my local Auto Zone will certainly read the codes for free ... but claim that it is against company policy to reset the CEL if they've done nothing but read the code..
I've been told by multiple sources that there are no problems running without functioning cats ... other than the CEL coming on occasionally.
Its a futile move that will save me a $4500 expenditure on a car that's only worth about twice that ... while I think about what I want to do in the long run.
It looks like I'm going to be operating my 2000 Cab with 2 failed cats for a while. The only real downside for me is that this will bring on repeating CELs that I will have to have my indy mechanic regularly clear for me. It occurs that it would save me considerable time / trouble to purchase a basic OBD reader that will allow me to check, then cancel CEL on my own. If anyone has recommendations for such a tool, I would appreciate any advice available.
At the 16 year mark, my leather is beginning to show its age, so I would like to use one of the dye products available to spruce them up. The problem is getting the correct color. I have always thought of my 2000 Cab as having the lighter of the two gray options. From browsing on eBay, I became convinced that Graphite Grey was the darker of the two, as it certainly looked darker than my leather in eBay ads. Unfortunately, the good folks at SeatDocs.com did not have a formula for a lighter, unspecified grey. At LeatherMagic, they have a Space Grey ... but it appears very dark ... certainly darker than my color. Finally, the tag under my hood says "CE" where the interior color code is located. I believe (but cannot recall where) I read that leather code "C" denotes Graphite Grey. So ... I am thoroughly confused Any help / enlightenment would be greatly appreciated. Kim
Just to close out this thread, JFP in PA was right on the money. Engine quit again right after my most recent post, and ... as soon as it cooled down ... I started it and drove straight to a top notch local shop. As soon as they heard my tale of woe, one to the mechanics stated, "I bet its the crank position sensor" ... and it was. CPS had a heat sensitive short that would go away as soon as the car cooled for a few hours.
I had the dreaded intermix due to a cracked head. Jake Raby did the repairs for me, and I've been very happy with the results.
One of my biggest impressions as I drove my new (to me) 2000 996 Cab home from the purchase was that it had little to none of the typical convertible's rattle and clunk. For a while, the clunk has been back, especially when driving 20 mph or less through my neighborhood. I did a search here and thought I had found the answer: replacing all 4 drop links ... certainly reasonable now that I have passed 160,000 miles. That made a difference, but did not eliminate the clunk altogether. I am looking for ideas as to where to look next.
Well, as I pointed out in my original post, the pump was already changed as a "best guess" item. Circumspection won't help much at this point. Having already spent that money, I prefer to assume that the original pump might not have lasted much longer ... after 16 years and 165,000 miles. Helps me sleep better at night
Yes. The car was checked for codes. They revealed upcoming issues such as, "your right cat converter will not pass its next emissions check" ... but nothing related to the stalling and subsequent restart after cooling. This shop happened to have a tech who was familiar with the crank position signal issue. I agree on the fuel pump R&R being an investment. I understand that a 996 with the mileage I have on mine is facing that before too long.
Just in case this may help someone else: My car (2000, 996, cab with 165,000 miles) quit cold on 3 separate occasions recently. First on interstate at 60 mph; second in stop/go traffic; third while idling in a parking lot. On each occasion, attempts to re-start were useless. Starter turned, motor cranked over, but no firing. After each wrecker ordeal, it always started just fine several hours later. I was clueless. I even had the (original) fuel pump and associated relays replaced on spec. I had to find the cause as I had to be able to trust my car to get to work at all times of the day and night. After third episode, I took it to a local shop (Gold Crest in Kennesaw, GA) They discovered the crank position sensor wire had a hidden break (inside the intact insulation) that would change position and lose continuity when sufficiently heated. Without the signal from this wire, the engine simply would not run. Later, after the car sat for a while, the wire would regain contact, and the engine would start as if nothing ever happened.
Kim replied to jcashen's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I had a brand new top installed on a 2000 996. Worked perfectly from the first day. I believe the excuse about "tight top" is BS
Kim replied to russelljones48's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Although you seem to already realize the importance of completely flushing the plastic bits out of your system,allow me to add even more emphasis. Last summer I spent $12K+ on engine repairs, and the final analysis showed the culprit to be a truly tiny piece of plastic impeller that had apparently been in the system for months since the prior water pump failure / disintegration. The bit eventually lodged in a coolant journal on the cylinder head and resulted in a cracked head and oil/coolant intermix without ever registering a temp over the normal 180. The very first sign to me was a coolant warning light followed by a volcano of chocolate milk shake shooting out when I removed the coolant reservoir cap. I will now change my water pumps proactively every 3 years ... as opposed to waiting for the next one to explode and trash my engine again.