PorscheFan

Well, this is not actually a garage queen. I drive it everyday. Maybe my home to office is too close, I can only add up -5K miles a year.

The engine light never came up. No warning, just died. I have it checked by dealer, they said this problem is "VERY" common for 996. they think Porshe should recall the engine, but they never will.

As we pay so much for the car, we should enjoy more than worry. I was lucky the car didn't die on the road. Otherwise, I will have more trouble.

I know the chance to get some "goodwill" is very slim, especially from the most "profitable" automaker (now I wonder why). To try is the only hope to get this bad feeling away (at least for me).

My MY03 996 C2 engine failed two days ago. It was the intermediate shaft problem. I know it is part of the experience you have to deal with with Porsche, but I didn't think it happened to such a low miles car (23K only). Now I really need your help-- can someone PM me about how to get Porsche to cover some cost as goodwill?? (if they have goodwill at all :( )

Thanks in advance ....

I have had battery-draining problem for several weeks and couldn't solve it. I checked all the threads to see if there is solution. So far, I have checked the connection of wire, tried to pull fuse when engine is running, turn off accessories one by one,.... No luck. :(

I have not tried to reset immoblizer. Can anybody tell me how?

Another symptom of my car is the voltage drop below 12 when temp reaches 180 or above. I tried to pull the fan fuse, no luck either. Any clue?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Carefully measure the voltage across the battery (with a good voltmeter) while the engine is running 13-14 volts is normal. If it is below that then you either have a voltage drain or a bad alternator/regulator.

Thank you Loren.

I inspected the connection and followed wire to see if there is any leakage. I check the voltage before start and after start. It looks normal to me. Now I found a pattern of voltage change during driving. When the car is cold started, the voltage is about 13 - 14V. After driving about 10 minutes, the car warmed up, the voltage starts to decrease slowly. It stays above 12V all the time after that. If I re-start the car immediately, the voltage will go up to 13V and drop to 12V about 1 minute when the car is warm. If I re-start the car about 30 minutes later, the voltage is like cold start situation.

In this case, which one is more likely to be the problem? a voltage drain or a regulator ?

:unsure:

Hi, maybe I need some help about this issue.

I just changed bettery yesterday. I drove for a while last night, I noticed the Voltage on my display is about 12.1 or 12.2. Today I drove from home to work , the voltage stayed about 12 or a little below. After parked the car for a while, I put the key in, the voltage is about 12.2. Should I worry about this? I searched previous thread, I also checked the cable and connector. I don't see anything abnormal. Before I changed battery (actually the battery died), I noticed the voltage while driving is below 12V. I tried to have battery externally charged, but it didn't work (5 years old, what you can expected...) . That's why I got a replacement.

So far, I don't have any problem to start the car. But searching the previous thread, it seems to me that this is a "non-charging" situation. Why should I do next? Your help is highly appreciated.

US-MY03, 996 C2 coupe, 6 speed

Have you see any water into it when you pour water on the rear of the car?

I notice that water will come down to alternator area when you open the rear after washing the car. Most of the time, water will not touch the alternator. But, if a loose seal or other parts, maybe water will go directly into alternator or related wire. Check if your alternator is wet after you pouring water. Maybe you can find some clue.

I also tried to upgrade my MOST stereo too. But after a long search and some good advise from board members, I gave up. Either you spend big $$$ on P-parts or have it totally redo. I am thinking maybe next time when I order a P-car, I would order one without radio system at all. :P

I think it is not just wiper function, the radio interferes with almost everything electrical. Sometimes with turn signal, sometimes with wiper, and sometimes with brake....... sometimes it is very OK. I think this is one of the option P-car didn't charge for.... :P

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry32310

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6682

Thanks Loren. :thumbup:

Hi:

I have a MY03 C2. Just saw a turbo bumper on sale. I was wondering if it will fit my C2? My C2 probably is a narrow body. BTW, when people say narrow body and wide body, they are talking about the whole car or just the rear side? ( :oops: I know it's a newbie question, but......)

Thanks

:renntech:

Hi:

Just have two rear tires replaced with Michellin (18") on July 2006. Ever since, the left rear tire pressure need to be pump up about every 1 month (from 40psi down to 32psi). Went back to tire shop to check it , but they can't find any leakage. Is it possible a deffect tire? Anyone has experienced with this before? Any input is felpful, thanks in advance.

MY03 C2

By comparing to a Japanese Car, the P-car clutch is heavier. This is my first impression about my 996 when I got it. I used to have a Nissan 300, the clutch is lighter than 996. Just my personal experience. ;)

At begining, I have tested a tank of gas to see if the computer is OK. Th result is very close, so I haven't bothered to calculate milage based on filling gas. I don't track and drive gentlely (compare to some p-car lover). :thumbup:

I doubt if I drive too less ;)

Thanks

Hi:

Sometimes I was wondering if my MY03 C2 has less gas milage than normal. My C2 is about 13 - 14 city and 20 - 21 highway. Odo reading is 17,000 miles. This gas milage sounds right or too low?

Thanks for your input....

Hey folks,

This afternoon, my passenger window got stuck in the down position. When you hit the window button, the window moves up about 1 cm. then stops. It will move up and down about 1 cm. when you play with the window button, but no more than that. Does anyone have a fix?

Thanks,

Skipp

Most likely is window regulator. You may need a new one.

Update:

After test driving a C2 w/SSK, I finally installed one last weekend. I am not sure if I like it in the long run. So I install a OEM one just in case. Here is my observation.

1. Shifting is more notchy. More force is needed to shift.

2. Shifting distance is shorter. Great improvement from 4th to 5th gear. This is a positive.

3. Shifting is more precise. I don't know why, the whole car feels tighter and firmer ( no laziness feel when shifting and accelerating).

I think I need to drive more to get used to it. I don't have problem shifting to first gear when cold.

During the installation process, I found several tricks.

1. to disconnect the key wire of center compartment, it is better do it right after you remove the ash tray. After removing the ash tray, you can see the wire (brown ones) go to the upper key hole. Just pull it softly before you remove the whole console to avoid breakage.

2. definitely mark the cable before you remove anything related cable linkage.

3. the metal clip of the cable and housing connect doesn't need to be removed to disconnect the cable from housing. (Step 18 on B&M manual)--Maybe mine is like that, I don't know about other people's.

This mod took me 1.5 hours, most of the time is on removing center console (almost 1 hour, maybe this is my first time). Honestly, this car is more like a "sports" car after this mod.

Thank you all for helping me. :renntech: :drive:

Hi:

I am thinking of installing SSK into my MY03 996 C2. After searching all possible related topics, I really wonder if there is anyone who doesn't like it? I think it is more of a personal feeling and happiness on the distance of shift than great mechanically improvement of the shifting process.

Here is the conclusion of my observation of SSK:

Pros -- shorter shift throw (the main reason of this mod), quicker shift (some say not actually because of harder shift), more accurate engagement of shift.

cons -- too hard to shift when cold (is not as smooth as original oem one), installation may ruin the cable adjustment (just a matter of carefulness), noisy when engage in gear.

I would appreciate you guys opinions. Except that, I am not very mechanically strong. I don't know if I can handle B&M mod easily. By reading the manual, I don't really know how to cut off the clip and remove the cable. So I am thinking OEm one if I will do the mod. Is there any PN for oem one ? Does it come with housing?

Thanks in advance. :renntech:

I had the same problem and dealer changed the oil pressure sensor under warranty. If you have reported the problem before the warranty expired, then dealer should take care of it.

Update:

Finally get the car back from dealer. The parts took about 10 days to arrive. After the repair, the throttle becomes smoother. Before, when the car is in 1st or 2nd gear, it will hesitate at the very beginning when push up the speed. Also, it seems that there is a 3-stage switch to control speed in different timing even though the pressure on the pedal is holding at the same level. Now, the throttle is up very smoothly without hesitate. I think the e-gas pedal plays a significant role on the throttle performance. It's not like a cable control situation, your foot can't really do any tiny adjustment to make the throtlle response the same.

:clapping:

I have currently a CDR22 installed in my C4 -99. Is it possible to change to a CDR23 without any other changes than disconnect the old and plug in the CDR23 ?

I have the button peel on my CDR22 unit as well as some funny behavior of the CD player (works fine in abot one hour, then the left channel starts to make noice as when you have a bad radio reception, when switching over to radio mode directly everything works perfect!) and the swedish Becker service wants more to service the unit than I would be able to by a used CDR23 unit for.

As far as I can understand, CDR23 does not fit MY99. CDR23 only fit fiber cable from MY03 and UP. You may want to try aftermarket unit if the head unit is bad. Becker is not a "good" unit anyway. I wish I can change my CDR23 easily for aftermarket unit but the fiber cable prevents me from doing so.

Please correct me if I am wrong. My CDR23 behaves weirdly but dealer doesn't want to change one for me unless it is dead.

Good luck!!

Hi:

It was a bad day for me. Today I drove MY 03 996 C2 down the road, all of a suddent, something under the gas pedal break and the pedal won't back up when release. Also, even with full depth push, there is no response of throttle. The pedal is pretty much free play. I am thinking to temp. fix myself if I could. By crawling underneath, I can see a screw on the top left corner. I doubt if this is the screw to remove gas pedal? Does it sound like a problem I can fix myself without getting new parts? The car is under warranty, I don't know if I can temporarily fix it and drive to a dealer or have a flatbed to tow it. Any opinion is appreciated.

:help:

Radio stopped working on my 2003TT. There is power but no "Porsche" on the display or audio. I remember a couple of weeks ago, it made a clicking noise when I entered the car. Did it a couple of times. Anyone had this problem? Is still under warranty but I'm curious.

I have the same sympton on my radio too <_< . It makes clicking noise sometimes when the door opens. But mine still working. I was wondering why and how to eliminate this problem.

Thanks

1. Removing cover trim -- Remove the cover trim 1 at the left and right towards the front.

2. Undoing fastening screw -- Unscrew the fastening screw 2 at the left and right.

3. Pulling out the sound package -- Pull the sound package 3 in the direction of the arrow out of the bracket 4 and fold over.

4. Disconnecting the plug connection -- Press plugs 5 together and pull apart.

Thanks Loren. :thumbup:

Hi,

I need the instruction to remove the Bose rear speaker box behind rear seats. Thanks in advance.

:renntech:

Thank you guys for your input.

I used to have YoKo ES100 on my Boxster and like them very much. But I can't find the size for my C2. Anyway, Michelin seems to be a better choice.

:lol: