mookster

You could go with sport clutch and light weight flywheel (LWF). I did this on my 2003 cab. This is a costly upgrade. It took a day to relearn to drive the vehicle and the car did spin up faster. 30K on the setup without issues, mechanically speaking. However this assy did make lots more transmission noise and a very loud clackity-clack noise (diesel truck sounds) that could drive you crazy. Looking back for a street only vehicle, I would go with replacing the clutch with the original assy. It was a lot of fun. Replace the flywheel seal and upgrade the clutch fork while you are in there. If the RMS is leaking, have it fixed. If the RMS is not leaking, I would leave it alone. (if you replace the RMS it adds one hour to the repair plus $40ish in parts). As a side note, if you are attempting burn-out driving, this is not the vehicle!. I would not suggest driving this way. The tranny is the weak link and that type of driving will cost you a ton of money. Shift slow, drive fast and be safe. Mookster

2003 996 Cab CEL came on this evening. Codes: P0300 and P0304, misfire at #4. Coil pack(s) going bad? Diagnosis and input appreciated. Thanks in advance

Thank you for the responses thus far. I am familiar with Porsche automobiles and a long time subscriber to excellence Magazine. My goal is to get some real world owner input. I like the C4 body lines but is it worth the extra money form a performance stand point? Can anyone share some pricing points bought or sold? I appreciate pros or cons. Weight has been mentioned. Additional feedback is appreciated.

Sold my 2003 C4 cab and looking to replace it with a '02-04 model C4/C4S coupe 1. What are some of the problem areas I need to know about the car? 2. Are they reliable daily drivers? 3. Current pricing on 2002-2004 in the area of 40k miles? 4. Any special servicing compared to the C2 I can anticipate the obvious; brakes, tires and rotors but what else do I need to know? Feedback is appreciated

I need an independent shop recommendation at/near Duluth GA to complete a PPI on a 2002 996. Please include the name of the shop address and telephone number of the shop if you respond. Your help is appreciated in advance.

Time to finish the thread. The final problem was a leaking vacuum reservoir (part 933 110 140 03) behind/lower then the alternator. I would never had found this leak as a DIYer. The shop smoke tested the system and found the leak. The leak was not obvious thus the post and part number. part $27 Diagnostic prior to repair 1.5 hours Alternator R&I 1.0 Retest 1 hour

2003 996 Cab, 68k miles I have the Durametric code reader software The check engine light has come on 2 times with the following codes P0491 Secondary air system bank 1 P0492 Secondary air system bank 2 And 9114 PCM control unit. The software does not allow me to clear this code Any help with the codes and cause is greatly appreciated.

Closing this thread. The motor did not have to be R&I to remove cam sensor on the right side. Diagnosis for the problem 1 hour, repair time to reach and R&R the sensor in the vehicle 2 hours, 996 606 106 03 is the part number. Thank you to everyone who replied.

Just off the phone with the mechanic: Cam sensor is bad on the right side of the motor. Only code pending is T0349. The T0335 code has been cleared. Shop claims repair time to replace sensor is .8 hours. Shop claims they need to drop motor/trans assy for 10.5 hours 1. Does the motor/trans need to be dropped for this operation? 2. What is the book time for motor/trans assy drop. Mitchell book with a/c 8.1 hours for drop plus 1 hour with ac, 9.1 hour for R&I. 3. If a partial drop is warranted, what is the fair time to to complete this operation? if partial drop is completed what will be the labor time to adjuster to replace the sensor? Any help is appreciated

The drama continues: I just received a voice mail from my mechanic. One of the culprits causing my CEL is the cam sensor. It appears the motor will need to be R&I. Is that correct? What is the the estimate labor time to R&I the motor. Anyone have a part number for the sensor? Any reasonable "while you are in there" projects I should be aware of while the motor is down? Any advise or input is appreciated.

Loren, Thank you for your timely replay. Where are the sensors located so I can look into this further?

2003 996 Cab, 67,000 miles My first CEL experience P0349 Phase sensor 2 camshaft, sub code 113 hall effect sensor P0335 RPM input circuit, sub code 110 9114 Cluster I did clear the codes and when I took the car down the street the codes reappeared. It appears ignition related and most likely a sensor(s) gone bad. Any input to to what may be involved or parts needed? Thanks in advance

2003 996 Cab The battery in my key fob went dead. I changed the battery. The key fob does not remotely unlock/lock the doors at this time. Does anyone know how to reprogram the key fob? Thank you for your help in advance. Mookster

2003 996 Cab, standard suspension, Bilstein components I just replaced my shocks, springs, struts, and sway bars with a oem euro-spec suspension assembly. I did save the old parts. The 911 suspension components could be rebuilt to an owners specifications. Can the 996 shocks and struts be rebuilt to the euro specs? Who/what shops complete this service? Estimated cost? TIA for your help.

I just replace both struts and rear shocks -Parts for M030 kit, Euro suspension $1403 (springs, struts, shocks, sway bars and misc parts) -Labor 7.5 hours -The alignment is separate -The only surprise parts I encountered was I needed to replace the strut mounts -The shipping of parts was extra I have 2003, Cab just for the comparison

What is the cost of reman engine these days? What is the cost of a used engine? Most shops/vendors do provide some sort of warranty when you opt for this choice. You can only spend your dollar once. Just throwing out some alternative ideas.

I would suggest replacing all 6 tubes and o-rings as long as your car is in the "air". This might be a good time to replace all the coil packs and plugs if they have not been changed recently. If you use Reeves, the dealership, to get your parts be sure to ask for a Porsche Club discount. You get a 10% discount if you are a club member.

Replace the tank and the cap Based on my repair bill Tank cost $126 Cap $21.05 (if you have already upgraded the cap you may not need to replace this part) Anti-freeze $14 (if you do the repair $45-$50 for 1 gallon) I replaced some of the hoses for the tank and other work that was being done at the same time $75 Labor 2-2.5 hours

Thank you for all the replies. If you had the suspension/strut/shock replaced by a mechanic can you provide me the labor time for the operation. I am aware the M030 suspension will be firmer then my current set up. This is not an issue. I have located the spoiler/diffuser part number in the DIY forums. Thank you Loren for pointing me the right direction.

2003, 966, C2 Cab The suspension is the M032 (standard suspension). The vehicle has 17” wheels. All four tires were replaced at 49,500 miles. I have had this vehicle for 3 years. The vehicle now has 56,000 miles on the odometer. I am preparing to take the vehicle in for an oil change and the 60k service. While in for regular servicing I need to address the suspension. Let me explain. The left rear of the vehicle is sagging (base on the fender/ quarter panel wheel arch measurements) and it appears the left rear shock is showing its life. I have completed the rebound test and it does appear the shock still has life. When I drive over 70mph the front ends does feel like it is floating more then normal. 1. I realize if I replace one shock I need to replace the other side. If I just replace the shocks will I need to realign the vehicle? 2. I have owned two 911s prior to owning this vehicle. Will I need to corner balance/reindex and realign the vehicle if I just replacing the shocks? 3. I have replaced the rear shocks and strut inserts on my previous 911s. Is this a DIY job on the 996? Easier/harder? 4. If this is not a DIY job what is the reasonable labor time to replace the shocks/struts? What is the labor time to align and corner balance the vehicle? 5. If I need to replace the suspension I will be lowering the vehicle to Euro height. I will replace the suspension with either the M030 (Euro suspension) or the PSS10 suspension. Both kits are about the same price but it appears the M030 kit is more complete. Any thoughts on either kit? Does the install time differ between the 2 kits? 6. I heard a bout a front bumper diffuser that can be bolted to the front cover to produce more downward force. Does anyone know the part number? Is it worth it? I did attempt a search and did not have any luck. I will NOT be tracking this vehicle. This is my daily driver. In this economy I do not want to throw a suspension kit on the car if it is not needed. However, I do not want to be paying for overlapping labor for alignment and balancing due to other parts failing in the near future. I appreciate your input and thoughts. Thanks in advance.

My vehicle is fixed. The problem was determined to be the Oil Separator Assy (966 107-026 51) and related hoses. While I was in there I did replace the equalizing tank and updated the cap. A partial engine drop was required, 3 hours. Diagnostic labor, 1.5 hours and parts replacement labor (included replacement of fittings and hoses) 2 hours.

Any ideas of labor time or costs to your suggestions? Based on what I know...sometimes this is limited: -The leak appears to be coming from the area photographed. The coolant was sprayed everywhere. When I mopped up the coolant, this seems to be the spot (drip) that coolant reappeared. -Space is limited and I cannot see the top of the engine -If it is a head gasket/water pump gone bad, I assume the engine needs to be dropped. If it is a water pump or head gasket we can assume R&I engine 5-6 hours Oil change (with overlapping labor) part/materials $100 Coolant change (with overlapping labor) coolant $100 Please help me get a better feel on this internet diagnosis/cost so I can be educated when discussing with the repair facility. All help is appreciated.

2003 996 with 3.6L engine, C2 On Friday, while driving in the rain, I noticed my engine temperature increased. The coolant tank was down approx 8 oz. I re-filled the coolant tank and replaced the coolant tank cap and took the vehicle for a test drive. When I returned to my residence, I discovered the leak was not in the coolant tank, but in the front left side of the engine. Attached are photos of the leak. Please help me identify my problem and potential costs. TIA Mookster

Where did you get your Alm flywheel FLW106411?, Is it made from Aluminum? Weight?,Number of bolts?, Price?, If it is not made from aluminum, why did you chose it?, any problem after installation?, your total parts cost? I was looking for another option beside the wide offering of the aluminum flywheels (because of the noise that they make), then I read an article called "Flywheels - On the fly" on the europeancarweb, and it mentioned the big advantage of the Single Mass Flywheel over the Dual mass, that beside the increased performance, it made some noise, (but probably not that noisy compared with the aluminum flywheels), also mentioned that Porsche went with this decision for better performance in the GT3, I found that the 03-04 Porsche 996 GT3 Carrera RS has it, and that part weights 11.5 lbs. I My mechanic located the flywheel, not sure were it was obtained. It is made of Alm I cannot comment on weight or bolts. I went with alm to avoid excess weight to avoid another RMS leak. Mechanic advised it will wear better and it's more fun to drive. I agree with him. As mentioned, it took a day or 2 to relearn to drive the vehicle. In 2007, flywheel $1500, total parts and shipping juster under $3000.

My car is a 2003 996, 3.6 C2 This replacement started as a RMS leak repair when it was discovered my clutch assy was 80% worn. When I replaced my complete clutch assy, including a LWFW flywheel: Parts Flywheel seal 997 101 212 00 Clutch fork update, 996 997 116 712 00 Ball pin update 996 116 716 02 Clutch clamp 996 116 741 00 Clutch seal ring 996 116 743 00 Clutch disc CU881861859 Clutch cover 996 996 116 027 06 Alm flywheel FLW106411 Clutch release bearing 996 116 080 04 This is not a single part change over. 6.8 hours labor You WILL hear more transmission noise (a clackity-clack noise when idling w/ the clutch disengaged). The engine does spin up much faster. You will need to retrain yourself on how to drive the vehicle (short learning curve but annoying). If you are into a stock vehicle and don't like noises, do not go with this change. If you like the motor spinning up faster and can swallow the cost, go for it. Mookster