scb71

Wow! That took long enough but I am very curious to hear what they ultimately have come out with as far as coverage is concerned. This was obviously a design issue from the start and while I may sell my car before it needs a third transfer case I no doubt think at some point it likely will.

Good luck to those currently in need of one, and to all of you lined up for possible reimbursement.

KDH, or others,

Any update on whether your fluid changed eliminated the shudder and sloppy shifting?

What I was trying to point out is that the unit pulls off as one piece. You can see that it is multi-colored as a couple of pieces are clipped together. Just slide the whole thing back- it is firmly attached to the blades but it slides on and off. Then you can undo the screw and swap the replacement part.

Thanks so much. I was hoping for a different outcome but it looks like I am keeping up with the one minor (but potentially expensive) repair per week. I guess a regulator is in my future since the door handle doors signal the action - it just isnt doing what it needs to. I noticed that if pull the handle and then push down on the window that it goes down the right amount and when the handle is released it magically raises as it should. Seems like the regulator has lost some tension maybe.

I figured this had been discussed before but for some reason I could not find a thread. Seems like the gremlins continue on my car...

This could be totally unrelated but yesterday I changed the ignition switch which involved unhooking the battery. Today I just noticed that the passenger side window does not do its small lower to clear the roof when the handle is opened. The driver's side still works and the passenger window operates as it should with the rocker switch - including the one touch operation. It just does not lower the +/-1/4". It does make a noise and I see it make a slight bump like it lowering but it doesn't actually lower the necessary distance.

Anyone have a fix?

thanks!

Try retraining the window first. Press the down button and keep it pressed for an additional 5 or 10 seconds after it has reached maximum down. Do the same in the up direction. That should retrain the window. (The exact procedure is in your owner's manual.

If you still have the same problem, it's almost definitely your window regulator, especially if you are getting the same exact result whether you pull on the inner or on the outer door handle. If you get a different result, suspect one of the microswitches behind the relevant door handle.

Regards, Maurice.

I figured this had been discussed before but for some reason I could not find a thread. Seems like the gremlins continue on my car...

This could be totally unrelated but yesterday I changed the ignition switch which involved unhooking the battery. Today I just noticed that the passenger side window does not do its small lower to clear the roof when the handle is opened. The driver's side still works and the passenger window operates as it should with the rocker switch - including the one touch operation. It just does not lower the +/-1/4". It does make a noise and I see it make a slight bump like it lowering but it doesn't actually lower the necessary distance.

Anyone have a fix?

thanks!

Greetings all. I recently received a replacement amp from a stellar fellow 996er - skiracer - (free! since he replaced his with aftermarket) and that fixed a totally dead channel for me. However I have found that when the old amp died it apparently didn't go it alone - it also blew out the mid range speaker in the passenger dash. The tweeter works still but the mid has nothing at all. So here are my questions-

1- Does anyone have an old dash speaker that they are not using? If not I will try a rear speaker if you have one of those. Actually if someone has replaced their fronts but reused the speaker housing I guess I just need the mid range speaker (looks like a small woofer) if you happened to keep it.

2 - Will a Bose speaker work with mine even though my originals were the "upgraded" HAES speakers. The grill appears to be the same, but what about the ohm and the wire connectors? If so I wonder if that might not be a cheap mini-upgrade while I am at it.

Thanks

I cannot help with your actual question, but I did buy a new one for mine from Sunset and it was not very expensive. I think I bought it maybe two years ago. Give them a call and see how much a new one is before gambling on a "maybe". I know their price will be WAY below retail.

Update - I met with JeTexas on Friday to hook up the car to the PST2 for testing and calibration. The computer ran through the calibration sequence without issue but that window is still not operating as part of the top closing process. Again, the window works just fine via the window switch and it opens when the top is lowered, it just does not join in on the sequence to close the window as the top closes like the other three windows.

I called the dealer last week to see if they had a secret to get it back in line and they wanted to charge me 1hr to calibrate the top. The top calibration takes about 30 seconds but nevertheless we tried that and it did not fix the problem.

Anyone have troubleshooting suggestions?

thanks!

Just recalled that I did the speed sensing mod a while back to allow for the top to go up or down when moving slowly.Any chance this could be causing the system to not 'reset'?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...pic=38&st=0

Thanks for the reply. I have tried that as well. It appears that works to reset the auto one click up and down on the front windows but it is not doing anything for the rear.

Here are the symptoms again -

The power window works so I manually raise it with the rocker switch. Upon opening the top, all four windows automatically retract as they should and if held past the top opening the front two raise again - as they should. Now when I close the top it goes through the whole motion until it gets to the windows. The front two raise as does the passenger rear while the driver rear does nothing. So I use the window switch instead and raise that one window.

I called a dealer yesterday to ask if they was something I had missed - like turn your head to the left and cough twice or whatever - and you can imagine what he said: "bring it in for 1 hour at $135 and we we will reprogram the entire convertible top with the computer". While I guess that is an option - I was hoping for an easier solution... easier and cheaper.

I appreciate the suggestions!

Not sure I follow your message Loren. No I do not have three posts on this topic.

I previously posted about replacing the actual lift which nobody seemed to have anything to share. I tackled that myself and it is fixed. I also posted a follow up with pointers since nobody else seems to have tackled that particular repair diy. I am hopeful that will be helpful since others have experienced that particular problem before.

This issue is with the syncing of the auto up feature or whatever you call it.

I repaired a rear window lift in my 2001 996 cabriolet this weekend and everything is working great with one key exception - that one window no longer automatically raises when the top is closed. The other three work fine - they were never disconnected but this one window stays open. I can raise it with the window switch. The other thing is that it automatically lowers with the top, it is just the auto raise function.

I tried what is referred to as 'standardising' the windows in the shop manual which is noted at the end of the window replacement section but either I am not reading it correctly or that just is not doing it. From what that says I simply close the top and then close the window but that has not gotten me anywhere.

Does anyone know how to reset / standardise the auto window function for a convertible?

thanks!

Update - I found the shop manuals and tackled this yesterday afternoon. If anyone has the same problem I have a few pointers:

1- This is stated but make sure to put the top in the service position.

2- The shop manual lays out the steps rather well with one key exception - it may be more difficult on the driver's side I just cannot recall what was inside the passenger panel. Nevertheless the shop manual completely skips over the removal of the hydraulic top operator which is in the way of one particular nut that hold the top support bracket to the frame. This is pretty deep in to the disassembly and rather frustrating when you get to this point as you can't move forward but hopefully this heads up will help. Simply unbolt the hydraulic assembly from the support and remove a brace (approximately 6" black arm) that connects it to the top. The arm is removed by two clips. Once you have that out of the way you can get to one hard to reach nut and don't miss one last bolt that is towards the back of the car. You should now be able to pull the brace into the car just enough (maybe 1" or so) to allow for the removal of the window and the lift.

3- I was able to repair this window lift. I felt it was possible but it was detailed and a bit tedious. I noticed when I replaced the other lift (last year) that the motor functioned it was just that it would not operate the window correctly. You could pull the window up and then hit the motor and eventually something would catch but it may even move the window the wrong way but just for a few inches. It seemed like the cable was off the track and in looking at the part that was the case. Same thing happened on the drivers side. The motor was still functioning but the cable was off line and wrapped around the motor.

I unbolted the motor and figured out how the cable was supposed to be run - this has to be done exactly right. Next issue was in getting the tension set and this is where it got tedious. I ultimately found that I could wind the cable properly and set the wire while leaving it off of the top pulley - which is at the very top of the lift bracket by the window. There are two springs inside the white plastic lift mechanism - do not mess with these so just trust me that they are in there. Once I knew they were there I figured I had some play in the wire. While that is true there is very little as the tension must be strong in order to work. Although it must not be strong enough as I have had this problem now TWICE. Anyway, once I had the wire run I took some needle nose pliers and a thin screwdriver and continually worked at pulling and manipulating the wire until I finally got it to loop around the top pulley. Now I am back in business.

Let's hope this lasts for a while anyhow. I am going to blame the awful road patches inside the loop in Houston for bumping the car around and causing this to happen but nevertheless it is apparently a rather frequent issue as others have had the problem as well.

While this long rambling post may not mean much to alot of you. If you have this issue I am hopeful that this post will serve as a good addendum to the manual but more importantly it should serve a confirmation that it is possible to A) get in there and do it yourself and 2) fix the actual lift.

I will warn you - it is TIGHT in there, this is not particularly hard but it is very time consuming - just getting to the window lift - and you need to be very mindful of what you are doing as the top could be ruined if not careful. I appear to be fine, but I am just hoping my top is still happy with me after all of the maneuvering and rough handling.

At the end of the day this can save you a substantial sum. I think the dealer quoted me close to $800 or 900 for just the part last year. I ended up finding it at Sunset for about $500 which was by the far cheapest. The labor at an independent garage was just under $300 and I think they lost out on the deal as they actually quoted me labor before getting in there to do it. At the end of the day I would bet a Saturday or Sunday, some patience and likely a few scratches can save you anywhere from $800-1500.

I have a 2001 Carerra 2 convertible and the driver side rear window is not functioning. Believe it or not I had this same issue with that passenger side within the past year. For that side I ordered the lift and then had it installed at a garage. It was a pretty expensive repair for a window lift if you ask me.

Nevertheless, after I had it replaced I had them give me the old part so I could see it and the wire looked like it just came off the gear meaning that it could possible had been restrung and reset but who knows. Due to the cost involved I would like to get in there myself this time, at least have a look around and see if I cannot fix it. I hear the motor going, but the window is not doing anything - it is actually fully retracted into the panel.

Can anyone post a link or email me the pages from the database for a walk through on how to remove the panel, adjust the top, etc to get to the window and replace the part? I would greatly appreciate your insight and assistance! Someone actually offered this the last time and they emailed me some info but I felt like the garage was a better option then and as luck would have it - I have a new computer and apparently did not transfer that darned pdf.

Any tips, shop manual pages, pictures, whatever would be wonderful.

thanks in advance!