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KDH, or others, Any update on whether your fluid changed eliminated the shudder and sloppy shifting?
What I was trying to point out is that the unit pulls off as one piece. You can see that it is multi-colored as a couple of pieces are clipped together. Just slide the whole thing back- it is firmly attached to the blades but it slides on and off. Then you can undo the screw and swap the replacement part.
scb71 replied to scb71's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thanks so much. I was hoping for a different outcome but it looks like I am keeping up with the one minor (but potentially expensive) repair per week. I guess a regulator is in my future since the door handle doors signal the action - it just isnt doing what it needs to. I noticed that if pull the handle and then push down on the window that it goes down the right amount and when the handle is released it magically raises as it should. Seems like the regulator has lost some tension maybe. Try retraining the window first. Press the down button and keep it pressed for an additional 5 or 10 seconds after it has reached maximum down. Do the same in the up direction. That should retrain the window. (The exact procedure is in your owner's manual. If you still have the same problem, it's almost definitely your window regulator, especially if you are getting the same exact result whether you pull on the inner or on the outer door handle. If you get a different result, suspect one of the microswitches behind the relevant door handle. Regards, Maurice.
I figured this had been discussed before but for some reason I could not find a thread. Seems like the gremlins continue on my car... This could be totally unrelated but yesterday I changed the ignition switch which involved unhooking the battery. Today I just noticed that the passenger side window does not do its small lower to clear the roof when the handle is opened. The driver's side still works and the passenger window operates as it should with the rocker switch - including the one touch operation. It just does not lower the +/-1/4". It does make a noise and I see it make a slight bump like it lowering but it doesn't actually lower the necessary distance. Anyone have a fix? thanks!
First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution will work but obviously the problem remains and at some point you may end up stranded if the ignition switch completely fails. I stumbled upon some of the other threads and found that this needed fixing and I opted to replace just the switch as opposed to upgrading to the new complete unit that Porsche has moved to. This procedure is not new to the board, but I thought a step by step with pictures may be useful to those looking for an inexpensive solution. It cost me $12.11 including tax. If your ignition mechanism has been changed to the newer revised unit the ignition switch is a different part number but I assume the steps would be the same. The part for just the switch - no longer available through Porsche since they are only selling the entire $150 unit - is 4A0905849B. The switch alone is available mail order through Pelican for $10, Autohausaz.com was +/- $8.75, Ebay has them all over the map from $15-30. All of these options will work but require shipping charges and delivery time. I was hoping for a local option since I had the time to do it today. Here is what I found in Houston - a local Audi dealer had one in stock for $35, while VW had to order it (for more than $35 believe it or not). Doing a search online at parts stores using my Porsche got me nowhere so I opted to use an older Audi - in my case a 1997 Audi A8 since the part is the same. I found Autozone had one for >$40, OReilly came up blank but I did not call to check, a specialty imports place had one for $27 and then I found it in stock at NAPA for $11.19 + tax. Since NAPA seems to have stores all over the place I suggest looking there first if you don't feel like mail order. The complete part number at NAPA was ATM 4A0905849B using the 1997 Audi A8 as the vehicle. Here is a picture of the NAPA part (left) alongside the original part which I removed from my 996 cab - note the AUDI rings on the old part. Equipment needed: Small flat screwdriver - eyeglass or electronics size Philips screwdriver Torx driver 10mm wrench rubber pry tool Cold beer to celebrate 1) Disconnect the battery - I just undid the negative with a 10mm wrench 2) OPTIONAL but makes the job easier than the shop manual in my opinion. Remove the side air vent by pulling the headlight switch towards you and inserting a small blade screwdriver up from the six o'clock position. You should notice a spring like resistance which will release the knob and allow it to pull towards you. Here is a picture of the back of the knob showing the release mechanism Once the knob is off remove the three torx screws – one in the headlight control recess and two on the side After the screws are out take a rubber pry tool (or be careful with a flat screwdriver) and remove the vent housing - it will pull towards you with a little effort but not much. Once off I pulled it out far enough to gain access but left the headlight control connected because I was lazy and saw no need to unhook it. I forgot to take a picture of this part but it should be self explanatory. You will now see a philips screw directly in the back of the air vent - remove. 3) Crawl under the dash and remove the center piece (A) of the air vent - there is not much room and you will not miss it. The piece can be nudged towards the side to release on one end and then the other. Since you removed the screw from above you should be able to remove the middle and side piece now out the bottom. 4) Unplug switch by pulling directly off the back - do not unhook the purple tabs just pull the entire unit back. Make sure to pull this off BEFORE unscrewing and removing the switch as the screws holding the switch in make this much easier than trying to get a hand in there - believe me I jumped ahead and then resorted to screwing it back in. 5) Unscrew two set screws - one on the bottom on one on the opposite side. The screws are coated with red paint that may need to be chipped through with your screwdriver before you can get the screw to grab. I unscrewed the bottom screw while under the dash and then from the seat I reached under and could view the top screw through the side vent area and unscrewed it. Do not remove the screws just undo them far enough to remove the ignition switch. Bottom screw noted in this picture Top screw as viewed from side vent opening - this can also be done from underneath but the small space and clutch pedal against my head led me to look for easier access 6) Now that the screws are loose you should be able to pull the ignition switch out and replace it with the new one. Screw in the set screws, hook the harness back to it and get ready for a cold beer - not quite but almost 7) Slide out from under the foot well, hook up the battery and see if all is well. You may as well check before reattaching the rest. If the car starts as it should you will notice a nice smooth ignition with the slight spring back to the left just after ignition. Hook up the air vents, screw everything back together and push the headlight knob back in place 😎 Crack open a cold beer and smile - you just saved a lot of money. This is one of the simplest "repair" DIY out there - it took me probably less than 20 minutes including removing the side vent and I took my time since I had never done it before. If I need to replace it again - which is likely - it will be even quicker. You can always replace the entire ignition module with the new and improved unit at around $150 I think - and alot more effort - but for $12 and 20 minutes I am hoping I can get some decent life out of this switch and then just replace it again in a few years if I need to. Like I said before - this is not a new DIY but I am hopeful that these pictures will be helpful. Thanks again to all of those who provided the prior posts.
996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution Author scb71 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2009 01:31 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM
Greetings all. I recently received a replacement amp from a stellar fellow 996er - skiracer - (free! since he replaced his with aftermarket) and that fixed a totally dead channel for me. However I have found that when the old amp died it apparently didn't go it alone - it also blew out the mid range speaker in the passenger dash. The tweeter works still but the mid has nothing at all. So here are my questions- 1- Does anyone have an old dash speaker that they are not using? If not I will try a rear speaker if you have one of those. Actually if someone has replaced their fronts but reused the speaker housing I guess I just need the mid range speaker (looks like a small woofer) if you happened to keep it. 2 - Will a Bose speaker work with mine even though my originals were the "upgraded" HAES speakers. The grill appears to be the same, but what about the ohm and the wire connectors? If so I wonder if that might not be a cheap mini-upgrade while I am at it. Thanks
scb71 replied to ihateclaims's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I cannot help with your actual question, but I did buy a new one for mine from Sunset and it was not very expensive. I think I bought it maybe two years ago. Give them a call and see how much a new one is before gambling on a "maybe". I know their price will be WAY below retail.
Update - I met with JeTexas on Friday to hook up the car to the PST2 for testing and calibration. The computer ran through the calibration sequence without issue but that window is still not operating as part of the top closing process. Again, the window works just fine via the window switch and it opens when the top is lowered, it just does not join in on the sequence to close the window as the top closes like the other three windows. I called the dealer last week to see if they had a secret to get it back in line and they wanted to charge me 1hr to calibrate the top. The top calibration takes about 30 seconds but nevertheless we tried that and it did not fix the problem. Anyone have troubleshooting suggestions? thanks!
Just recalled that I did the speed sensing mod a while back to allow for the top to go up or down when moving slowly.Any chance this could be causing the system to not 'reset'? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...pic=38&st=0
Thanks for the reply. I have tried that as well. It appears that works to reset the auto one click up and down on the front windows but it is not doing anything for the rear. Here are the symptoms again - The power window works so I manually raise it with the rocker switch. Upon opening the top, all four windows automatically retract as they should and if held past the top opening the front two raise again - as they should. Now when I close the top it goes through the whole motion until it gets to the windows. The front two raise as does the passenger rear while the driver rear does nothing. So I use the window switch instead and raise that one window. I called a dealer yesterday to ask if they was something I had missed - like turn your head to the left and cough twice or whatever - and you can imagine what he said: "bring it in for 1 hour at $135 and we we will reprogram the entire convertible top with the computer". While I guess that is an option - I was hoping for an easier solution... easier and cheaper. I appreciate the suggestions!
Not sure I follow your message Loren. No I do not have three posts on this topic. I previously posted about replacing the actual lift which nobody seemed to have anything to share. I tackled that myself and it is fixed. I also posted a follow up with pointers since nobody else seems to have tackled that particular repair diy. I am hopeful that will be helpful since others have experienced that particular problem before. This issue is with the syncing of the auto up feature or whatever you call it.
I repaired a rear window lift in my 2001 996 cabriolet this weekend and everything is working great with one key exception - that one window no longer automatically raises when the top is closed. The other three work fine - they were never disconnected but this one window stays open. I can raise it with the window switch. The other thing is that it automatically lowers with the top, it is just the auto raise function. I tried what is referred to as 'standardising' the windows in the shop manual which is noted at the end of the window replacement section but either I am not reading it correctly or that just is not doing it. From what that says I simply close the top and then close the window but that has not gotten me anywhere. Does anyone know how to reset / standardise the auto window function for a convertible? thanks!
scb71 replied to scb71's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Update - I found the shop manuals and tackled this yesterday afternoon. If anyone has the same problem I have a few pointers: 1- This is stated but make sure to put the top in the service position. 2- The shop manual lays out the steps rather well with one key exception - it may be more difficult on the driver's side I just cannot recall what was inside the passenger panel. Nevertheless the shop manual completely skips over the removal of the hydraulic top operator which is in the way of one particular nut that hold the top support bracket to the frame. This is pretty deep in to the disassembly and rather frustrating when you get to this point as you can't move forward but hopefully this heads up will help. Simply unbolt the hydraulic assembly from the support and remove a brace (approximately 6" black arm) that connects it to the top. The arm is removed by two clips. Once you have that out of the way you can get to one hard to reach nut and don't miss one last bolt that is towards the back of the car. You should now be able to pull the brace into the car just enough (maybe 1" or so) to allow for the removal of the window and the lift. 3- I was able to repair this window lift. I felt it was possible but it was detailed and a bit tedious. I noticed when I replaced the other lift (last year) that the motor functioned it was just that it would not operate the window correctly. You could pull the window up and then hit the motor and eventually something would catch but it may even move the window the wrong way but just for a few inches. It seemed like the cable was off the track and in looking at the part that was the case. Same thing happened on the drivers side. The motor was still functioning but the cable was off line and wrapped around the motor. I unbolted the motor and figured out how the cable was supposed to be run - this has to be done exactly right. Next issue was in getting the tension set and this is where it got tedious. I ultimately found that I could wind the cable properly and set the wire while leaving it off of the top pulley - which is at the very top of the lift bracket by the window. There are two springs inside the white plastic lift mechanism - do not mess with these so just trust me that they are in there. Once I knew they were there I figured I had some play in the wire. While that is true there is very little as the tension must be strong in order to work. Although it must not be strong enough as I have had this problem now TWICE. Anyway, once I had the wire run I took some needle nose pliers and a thin screwdriver and continually worked at pulling and manipulating the wire until I finally got it to loop around the top pulley. Now I am back in business. Let's hope this lasts for a while anyhow. I am going to blame the awful road patches inside the loop in Houston for bumping the car around and causing this to happen but nevertheless it is apparently a rather frequent issue as others have had the problem as well. While this long rambling post may not mean much to alot of you. If you have this issue I am hopeful that this post will serve as a good addendum to the manual but more importantly it should serve a confirmation that it is possible to A) get in there and do it yourself and 2) fix the actual lift. I will warn you - it is TIGHT in there, this is not particularly hard but it is very time consuming - just getting to the window lift - and you need to be very mindful of what you are doing as the top could be ruined if not careful. I appear to be fine, but I am just hoping my top is still happy with me after all of the maneuvering and rough handling. At the end of the day this can save you a substantial sum. I think the dealer quoted me close to $800 or 900 for just the part last year. I ended up finding it at Sunset for about $500 which was by the far cheapest. The labor at an independent garage was just under $300 and I think they lost out on the deal as they actually quoted me labor before getting in there to do it. At the end of the day I would bet a Saturday or Sunday, some patience and likely a few scratches can save you anywhere from $800-1500.
I have a 2001 Carerra 2 convertible and the driver side rear window is not functioning. Believe it or not I had this same issue with that passenger side within the past year. For that side I ordered the lift and then had it installed at a garage. It was a pretty expensive repair for a window lift if you ask me. Nevertheless, after I had it replaced I had them give me the old part so I could see it and the wire looked like it just came off the gear meaning that it could possible had been restrung and reset but who knows. Due to the cost involved I would like to get in there myself this time, at least have a look around and see if I cannot fix it. I hear the motor going, but the window is not doing anything - it is actually fully retracted into the panel. Can anyone post a link or email me the pages from the database for a walk through on how to remove the panel, adjust the top, etc to get to the window and replace the part? I would greatly appreciate your insight and assistance! Someone actually offered this the last time and they emailed me some info but I felt like the garage was a better option then and as luck would have it - I have a new computer and apparently did not transfer that darned pdf. Any tips, shop manual pages, pictures, whatever would be wonderful. thanks in advance!