gunzie

OK - the diagnose is set at the Porsche dealer in Belgium - appears my 5th cylinder (that is the frontmost one from the left bank) is worn in and the sound is actually the piston hitting against the cylinder wall due to too much space. On attached picture you can see the damage. So RFM, you were right about cylinder liner damage!

The engine will indeed be revised - new cylinder block etc - the cost is about 12400 € (near 20.000$?) which I'm paying out of my own pocket! :huh:

It feels kind of strange to have the 2nd hand warranty just expired, a 3 year old car with 95.000km now, and then reading this is a common issue with the Cayenne Turbo. RFM, do you have more information about this?

I feel a little bit like I've bought a chinese radio with 6 months warranty; you expect it to be defective after 7 months :angry: ...but this is a Porsche..

Any comments/considerations anyone? I bought the car in Germany, so I will ask for the German porsche center's reactions on this one, before maybe approaching Porsche Germany HQ.

Just got my car back this week - guys from carreramotors did an excellent job, they even kept me updated with regular progress pictures whilst I was on holiday.

Engine was completely rebuild, all wearable parts replaced, and had also the coolant tubes replaced by titanium ones upon recommendation, same for the waterpump.

The job also included wheel alignment, airco refill, test drive, etc..

In the end it cost me some 13K€ with the additional replacements, but I should receive (haven't received it yet) a payback from Porsche Germany for the main parts (pistons & engine block). Better then nothing, although it leaves a sour taste, since no apparent "fault" or reason other then maybe 5th cilinder out of tolerance (manufacturing defect) could be found...the other cilinders were shining like mirrors.

Anyway, I've got an engine now with zero mileage, 1 y warranty on parts again, end well, all's well..:-)

Thank you all for your support & reactions! :-)

Cheers, Gunther.

OK - the diagnose is set at the Porsche dealer in Belgium - appears my 5th cylinder (that is the frontmost one from the left bank) is worn in and the sound is actually the piston hitting against the cylinder wall due to too much space. On attached picture you can see the damage. So RFM, you were right about cylinder liner damage!

The engine will indeed be revised - new cylinder block etc - the cost is about 12400 € (near 20.000$?) which I'm paying out of my own pocket! :huh:

It feels kind of strange to have the 2nd hand warranty just expired, a 3 year old car with 95.000km now, and then reading this is a common issue with the Cayenne Turbo. RFM, do you have more information about this?

I feel a little bit like I've bought a chinese radio with 6 months warranty; you expect it to be defective after 7 months :angry: ...but this is a Porsche..

Any comments/considerations anyone? I bought the car in Germany, so I will ask for the German porsche center's reactions on this one, before maybe approaching Porsche Germany HQ.

Hi,

Seems like many people are having this problem and the dealers don't know what it is or how to approach the problem. My noise is less then before now after changing the air filter and spark plugs, but its still there.

I think we should contact Porsche directly before our engines fail, especially when they're out of the warranty period. Maybe we should start a online petition.

www.petitiononline.com

Did your engines sound like this?

Mine is going in on the 18th; I'll report back after that.

I had a similar metallic clicking sound in my CTS-V. I had it modified with a supercharger, headers, exhaust and a bunch more. I took it into the shop and they diagnosed a bad bearing in the supercharger. They had it rebuilt and reinstalled it only to find the clicking noise still there. It ended up being a $20 header gasket that fixed the problem. Apparently the stainless steel headers make metallic pinging sounds when exhaust gasses are escaping through the gaskets. I'm just trying to say that you should look for the simple fixes b/f you start tearing your engine apart.

I've made a small video; should have done that in the first place instead of trying to describe the noise..

anyone else recognize this?

Thanks RFM!

They will indeed check each cilinder with a microscope via the spark plug hole prior to taking the engine out.

If liner damage is the case then I guess I would better go for new cilynders + pistons etc (complete revision), no?

The car is going in on August,18 for 2 weeks straight. I want inform myself on beforehand off course.

Thanks for your swift reply!

Cheers, Gunther.

It works a lot easier with the engine out of the car, they need the car for 1 week but they works not continually on it i assume. Let check the noisy cylinder liner inside/piston with a devise before dismantling the cylinder head, there are Turbo's with cylinder liner damage well known and it is the same noise as a faulty lifter. Hope the best for you.

I'm having this metallic noise at idle ( tap tap tap) in my 05 CTT (90.000km or about 60.000 miles); when the engine is cold it's allmost unhearable, but when it's at operating temperature it is very distinctively there. (suspecting thick (cold) vs thin (warm) oil is having an effect; that's why I immediately started suspecting a bad hydraulic lifter)

When making more rpm's, frequency of tap tap tap increases also, and around 2000 rpms it either disappears or is drowned out by overall engine noise.

when decelerating rpm's, and the idle pick's up again, it seems to be gone for an instant but then is there again. I can hear the noise also during decelaration.

I've used a stethoscope and according to me the sound is the clearest around the valves on the driver's seat bank, first cylinder from the front. Then again I'm not sure if it might not be the variocam system on that side.

I should admit a number of weeks ago I first starting hearing the noise a couple of days after full load conditions (about 240km/h and accelarating when certainly the engine icon started flashing). In my memory I somehow link the two together.

I've tried teflon additives on recommendation from my Porsche dealer, and also a lifter clearing additive, but all to no avail.

Seems like the only solution, according to my Porsche dealer, is to take the engine out of the car (because you cannot dismantle valves/lifters/camwheels with the engine mounted)

and that will take about a week...his rough estimate was about 5000 euros (that's about 9000$ I guess)

My dealer claims he has been asking around with other dealers and the importer and I seem to be the first one with this problem. No fault codes were found.

Oh, and did I mention my Porsche 2nd hand warranty just expired the month before? Just my luck!

Can I have your opinions please? Are there more diagnostic tests which can be done prior to dismantling? Is it true the engine has to be out of the car to be able to replace/inspect the hydraulic lifters? Does 1 week sound right to you for that? (my dealer argued it is a turbo..)

Any other known common sources of this kind of noise? (I've been reading about a pulley producing a more plastic clack clack noise, but this is clearly a metallic noise...)

Should dismantling of the engine be the only option, would you recommend to change anything else? (thinking about bearings, piston rings, etc)

Your feedback is greatly appreciated!

Cheers, Gunther

How many of you press the PSM button as soon as you start up your trucks? I've only had my Turbo for about 3 weeks and over the past few days I pretty much immediately turn off the PSM. I just love the increased throttle response and the tendency to hold gears longer. The regular program feels way too lazy and always upshifts when I'm about to merge. I know a couple taps of the tiptronic buttons gets me in a lower gear but the PSM-off program seems way more in line with how I drive. If only it had a manual trans....(sigh)

BTW, for those of you with chipped Turbos, does the new programming mimick the better throttle response of the PSM-off?

I turn my PSM to "off" every now and then, but not always. It isn't really practical for driving slowly around town... always holding 3rd gear, etc. Sometimes I upshift with the tiptronic controls on the wheel in combination with PSM off.

It is certainly the way to go for spirited driving.

Same here...turn it off now & then but generally drive with it on...the standard program has been optimized for fuel economy and thus emissions/CO2...great for commuting..

Chipping will yield more engine torque, thus indirectly affecting gearbox behavior

I rather put the tiptronic in manual mode, making a downshift with the stick rather then to use the selectors on the wheel because they will hold a lower gear only temporary (forces it to manual for about 5 seconds, then goes to D again and upshifts)

As I mentioned before the number are the "crank number's" but I'll be more than happy to post the results when available, I'm curious to know the true numbers myself. Keep in mind Porsche advertise the '08 Cayenne Turbo comes stock at 500HP. I tried to use a GTECH device prior to the modes (didn't use it properly) and got 487HP (stock) with outside temp 93 degrees and forgetting to turn-off the PCM tracking control. I doubt the tyres are an issue; I bought the car new November '07, put winter tyres on until March '08 so the tyres only have 4 to 5 months on them.

Wheels & Tyres: 21 x 10J with 295/35 R 21 tyres

Gross vehicle weight rating (lbs) 6,493, curb weight (lbs) 4,784

Whoo Hoo... there it is! 589.6HP :eek: I was shooting for 540HP but Pit Stop Motorsport (VA) was able to mod the ECU to an additional gain of +50HP, the bypass tubes +27.6HP, and the V-Flow air induction system +12HP. Took her for a test drive and man... what a ride, even chirped a gear. Here’s the setup:

2008 Cayenne Turbo – 500HP

Autothority Performance Software - 50HP

Cayenne TT 2ndary Catbypass Pipes – 27.6

EVOM's Cayenne TT V-Flow - 12HP

= 589.6HP :thankyou:

Is the 589.6hp the ACTUAL dyno number or your guess as to what the crank number would be? Or is it just the number you arrived at by adding up the advertised numbers? You do realize that if you just added up the advertised numbers then you are likely waaaaaaaay off. That's just not how it works. If it was then my Cadillac (supercharger, headers, exhaust, intake and tune) had about 700hp. Post up your dyno when you get a chance. I'm guessing you're only making around 420-440hp at the wheels (assuming about a 20% drivetrain loss).

Also, if you chirped a gear in that 5800lb AWD automatic behemoth then you better look into new tires b/c that shouldn't happen at those power numbers. Anyway, congrats on the mods and enjoy your car!

It's interesting to see the true (guessing that GTECHdevice is a dyno) reported hp's vs the porsche advertised ones (489 vs 500); with most gen1 cayenne turbo engines the difference was even bigger (around 415 vs 450). My '05 reported 412 on the dyno at the tuner; after customized software mod this was 478 (dyno)...I should go in for a new dyno (changed air filter to K&N ones + coil crack problem solved + fresh spark plugs + "good" gasoline (my tuner claims in Belgium shell & jet give a measurable difference) should yield around 500hp..)

cheers, Gunther

Good Day everyone,

I've recently become the proud owner of a 2004 Cayenne S and I'm a little concerned with how it is performing at medium speeds. When driving at around 60 km/h in the city, with PSM on, it gradually shifts up to D5. Then if I want to punch it up a little to say 75km/h, it feels "jerky" for a few seconds, almost like it is flooding itself or something. Eventually it will shift down and accelerate OK.

The local dealer checked it out and said no issues, but I'm not sure they actually took it on the road, most likely hooked up to their computer.

They did report a couple of "soft" backfires detected by their system that they indicated might be bad gas (they said it is a fussy vehicle for gas?) or might be my coils, I'm going to try a different brand of gas for a while to see how that goes. I'd only driven it a very little bit before taking it to the dealer (had to get a headlight replaced) so I accepted that when I picked it up, but having driven it more now it just doesnt feel right that it should be jerky/shuddering like this.

Is it normal that it would be in D5 at these speeds? Dealer said that was for fuel economy, it goes to the gear to minimize fuel consumption. It goes just fine off the line, and at higher speeds (where the D5 seems like a more sensible gear to be in) it is fine if you want to knock it up a 10-20 km/h. Have driven a little with PSM off and don't have the same issue, but does seem to rev a good deal higher before switching gears.

I've read references here and there to a software flash or something to correct an initial issue, though I can't believe that was not done in the past.

Does anyone have any ideas and/or can you advise if my gearing makes sense / matches their experience? I'm not much of a gearhead (this is the first truly nice vehicle I've ever owned) so sorry I can't describe it better but maybe this strikes a chord with someone.....

Thanks for any tips or advice.

Hi,

My 05 CTT does the same - when you kick-down it actually makes you wonder if the car is asking "oh you want to go faster?" for a second, and then takes off like a rocket after shifting down 2 gears...this can be hazardous in overtaking attempts...so indeed I put it in manual or use the tip and shift down 2 gears before flooring it...

I've also noticed with the PSM off, the car shifts noticeably faster, but doesn't upshift anymore (at least in high gears as described below/ I need to verify that)

Only downside to driving with PSM off is you disable all safety measures.

So no, I'm also not happy with the response to the gaspedal - note that my transmission shifts very smoothly, no issues there.

I might go for a testdrive with one of the newer models to see if it behaves in the same way.

To me, this is the biggest turn-off for the car, especially when comparing eg with the new BMW X5

I wish some of the tuners would come out with their own "sporty transmission" update.

Cheers, G.

Loren,

Thanks very much for your help. I'll report back if I learn anything useful...

Peter

Hi,

I even have 22"x10" on a Gen1 with Toyo Proxes ST 295/30/22 - some considerations :

-I don't think your wheel arches will be the problem, but watch the ET (einpresstiefe or offset)

-in my turbo there's a tyre size setting for the TPMS to be made; (Summer 275/40/20 is the biggest selectable in the menu), I lost TPMS functionality and I'm guessing the nav computer also uses this to compensate distance errors.

-you're fuel consumption will slightly increase due to higher roll resistance (so slightly less acceleration power & slightly less top speed as well) - I felt the difference from upgrading from 275/40/20 to 295/30/22..

-maybe the most important consideration : my rims always touch the curbs first, the tire wall isn't protecting them anymore...(well depends on your personal situation off course...I'm living in Belgium, Europe where we have tight parking spaces/narrow streets in the cities so curb rash is inevitable in this case; California is a different story I guess..)

-..but it makes your car look **** sweet! (even the 20" looks "small" on the Cayenne)

Have fun!

Gunther.

Hi guys I'm currently in the process of modifying my Cayenne Turbo S and wondered if any of you had any tips or ideas. I have already planned a bodykit but was wondering which is the best exhaust to go for? Im also on the hunt for more power so any help there would also be apprieciated. On the subject of bodykits does anyone know where the best place to purchase a Techart Magnum bodykit would be.

Any help would be apprieciated.

thanks

If I'm not mistaken the difference between the Turbo S and the regular Turbo is already a higher turbo pressure (+200 psi?) and bigger brakes..so you've got a decent setup already...probably little luck with chip tuning there...

you might want to checkout the famous ruf porsche tuner in Germany...fitting bigger turbo's+wastegate etc will yield ya over 600hp but will typically set you back 20.000$

I've got a 2005 DVD (Europe), what do you want to know?

I've also contacted Navteq about updates; same bull**** answer, no updates available, contact your porsche dealer, and at my porsche dealer can't even tell me if it's worth upgrading (number of streets/cities/POI's added etc)

How are you progressing with the project?

i have updates on my 05 cayenne PCM2

I have etabeta tettsut's 22"x10" with Toyo Proxes ST 295/30 on it - upgrade from OEM Techno 20" with 275/40 - and I have to say it didn't take a week to get curb rash on all my wheels, and I never had this problem with the 20" OEM's (more tyre protection). Ride comfort is not notably different (air suspension) on belgian blocks. More precise steering however. Agree with the TUV approval, but the curb rash is annoying. If anyone can recommend a tyre over the 295/30 Toyo Proxes ST with some more sidewall, I'll be thankful.

Oh, and the 295 width over 275 also partially annihilated my power advantage from the chip upgrade (480hp).

Cheers, G.

I have the 22" replicas with Toyo ST Proxy 295/30/22 and there is nothing wrong with these wheels. I have had HRE, Iforged, Moda, OZ's etc and it makes no difference. If you hit a pot hole they all will bend. My CTTS handles better with the 22's and they are no heavier than the stock 20's. Don't think you have to spend 6-8k on wheels, because you don't.

Couldnt agree more. If wheels have been TUV certified I dont see why they should be necessarily inferior...aside from perceived superiority you get in justifying the extra $$$ shelled out for non-reps....

Have an 08 Cayenne S that's has burned through over 2 qts of oil in first 5k miles. Is this normal?? Dealer seems to think so, I've never owned a vehicle that ate through so much oil ever and am becoming increasingly concerned. I have to constantly clean my exhaust ports to wipe just to you can see the aluminum through all the black coming out of the pipes.

My 2005 Cayenne turbo (81000km) uses about 2 liters in 5000km - I've heard especially the turbo is an oil-eater. I'm using castrol 10W60 instead of prescribed 10W40 in Europe upon dealer recommendation.

Oil consumption can be initially higher (due to engine not yet ran in), so continue monitoring it

happy cleaning!

Gunzie

did anyone also install bluetooth adaptor...i am curious for my 2006 CS as how god it works

i am ready to get Dension Gateway 500 with bluetooth adaptor,

any retailers ...could not find locally in upstate NY

any prices??

regards

Manny

Hi, I payed about 80 euro for it - had no problems ordering it in Belgium.

I'm not happy with the sound quality of both the speakers and the mike, especially not when comparing with the sound quality of the original GSM module.

So I use the original GSM module more often, despite the clumsy telephone book.

I just installed the Motorola IHF 1000 in my 05 Cayenne S and was able to find all the connections I needed from the cell phone prewire connector under the passenger seat. Since the IHF 1000 uses the same AMP connector plug as the Porsche prewire, I was even able to carefully remove the various wires from the factory plug and replace them into the appropriate slots in the connector that came on the Motorola wiring harness. (This actually made for a very clean install.)

For the most part everything works fine, but I have a question on the microphone. I used the leads from the factory mic rather than the one that came with the kit and am not getting good voice recognition when speaking numbers to dial with the voice commands. (or when trying to speak numbers for adding to the contact list) The menus themselves seem to work fine as I can speak those commands and the unit recognizes them.

Has anyone else used the factory mic with the IHF 1000? Should I use the mic supplied with the kit and if so, have others mounted it up on the roof console or somewhere else?

Also, does anyone know if the factory installed mic is on the driver or passenger side of the overhead console. I looked and have mics in both locations so I'm thinking one is the phone mic and the other is the mic for the audiopilot stereo level control.

Thanks for any help.

Mike

Hi Mike, would it be possible to show some pictures of the factory wiring so I can identify the cables? I'd like to use the factory mike as well for a clean install, but using the dension BTA1000 (add on to the GW500). Hope the BTA1000 works OK with the factory mike..

Some kind of installation instructions would be appreciated too..

Thanks, gunzie.

my airbag warning light came on when i started my car. The car was parked for[ several days in a hotel parking lot before i drove it. Is there a way to reset the warning light without going to the dealer have it done?

I had the same problem, dealer says it's quite common. something to do with corroding connectors under the seat. Had it fixed by the dealer - told me they just soldered the wires together.

cheers, gunzie.

Hi, I noticed you installed the GW500 in the back, which complicates your wiring if you want to have your ipod at hand..

I've installed mine behind the glove compartment, as described in the install guide on www.maxxcount.de (incl some pictures)

both usb & ipod connection are handy next to the cupholders like this...

cheers, gunzie

I've got the Dension GW500 solution for ipod (& usb) installed, works great.

I added the dension BT1000 bluetooth solution today, what a mess. yes it's handsfree, but that's about it.

I've heard the parrot ck3100 downloads your contact list from your phone onto itself + boosts sleek design, sounds better to me.

Maybe I'll just buy a dual simcard and use that with my cayenne's porsche gsm kit - at least it's fully integrated.