Benjamin Choi

I know what's recommended in the manual, but what else should I add on top of it? I'm having my indy put in the 997 coils just to get them in there and avoid any future issues since I am at 60K miles. I asked him if I should get the coolant flushed, but he said not really if everything's been fine to date. I did the diff and tranny oils about 15K miles ago. Spark plugs, too, but just doing it again to add with the new coil packs. Thanks in advance, Ben

there is no substitute for oem pse

Heard the wireless ones suck. I have a wired one on my Toyota truck to Kenwood navi and it's one of the best mods I've done.

Let me just say that I love the MK1 aerokit 996s. I love the headlight shape more so than on any other 911 ever made. With that said, the headlight materials itself is totally dated v. the MK2 and 997 lights. If you look at the turn signal bulb area, the MK1 headlights use this old school diffused plastic material even in the gray lens unit (the ambers make it look like it's straight from the early 90s). The headlights are such an instrumental part of the car... highly visual. Because of this, the MK1 996 lined up next to a 997 looks very old whereas the MK2 996 stands on its own given that the bigger, more aggressively styled headlights on the MK2 996 allows it to keep up with the newer 997 design. It's superior packaging/design. I won't even go into the rest of the car. Bigger, stronger engine. Strengthened chassis. Improved aero. Better inerior plastics. Fresher front and rear bumper designs. Significant wins that makes the MK1 996 an absolute skip recommendation from me.

i'd never get an mk1 996. mk2 only.

i went looking for the same result: low dust pads that provide nearly as good bite and stoppage power as the oem pads. in the porsche world, brake dust is a part of life. i have the mintex now and though they do reduce brake dustage of your wheels, your wheels still end up getting blacked out quicker than any other part of your car. i'm not sure i'd spend the xtra $ to do this.. just learn to live with it because again the whole point to get less dusty pads is to increase car wash intervals... not gonna happen. just a cali dust brush or something to stave off the need to wash the ride.

i can pretty much guarantee it's the starter motor - you need a new one

Totally agree. There is so much myth around this subject. But the fact is that the oil change intervals set by manufacturers are the longest they think they can get away with. The reason is that they pay environmental levies based partly on the resources consumed by a car during its service life. Fewer mandated oil changes means lower levies. They are managing this cost against the risk of warranty claims, whereas an owner just wants his car to last. I would suggest a more protective oil is more important than the frequency of the changes. Mobil 0W40 simply does not have the film strength of many other oils. All engines have loosness and some degree of balance problems. Unless you have the proper film strength in the oil between the moving parts, the constant pounding will eventually create too much heat and occasional contact of the componants. Compound the loosness with constant changes in torque, an inferior oil will eventually lead to problems. Nothing personal here... But complete unfounded BS, you just don't know when to stop do you? It's been documented by Porsche that 15w is NOT a recommended oil weight for the M96. Many Porsche dealers and many more indy shops use 0w-40 and for good reason. It's what Porsche engineers put time and energy and $ to deliver. Who are you to recommend 15w on Porsche forums thereby exposing unsuspecting newbies to your vitriol? The more you push 15w, the more mental you become. What's highly convenient is you have not the $ or time or skills top back your 15w cheerleading hubris on my M96, Loren's M96, phillip's M96, Nancy's M96. All you got is your keyboard and a broadband connection just like the rest of us. :) Did I mention 15W oil? BTW, since you like using other people's names to drive home your point, some of those people you mentioned use 15W50. Try a search on 15w here and on Rennlist. Your name pops up in the resulting threads more often than the name Jordan pops up when you search for the Greatest of All Time on NBA.com. It's one thing if a dude chooses to run 15w full well understanding that it is NOT on Porsche's recommended list. It is a crime to push 15w on unsuspecting owners who come here for good information. You've switched your game up recently to say 5w or 15w I've noticed to cover your bases. Sneaky, but not really. So audience, just imagine someone with an IMS failure on a CPO M96... just imagine that's you... and you ambulate on over to your local Porsche service center and they ask you: "What oil do you use on your car?" LOL This guy named 1999Porsche911 on an internet forum said it's all good and called 0w-40 Mobil water so I've been running 15w. You going to own up to that and give him your contact info? Commiserate over the phone at a minimum? :) It's nothing personal, just sharing the other side of the equation here. It just doesn't add up.

Totally agree. There is so much myth around this subject. But the fact is that the oil change intervals set by manufacturers are the longest they think they can get away with. The reason is that they pay environmental levies based partly on the resources consumed by a car during its service life. Fewer mandated oil changes means lower levies. They are managing this cost against the risk of warranty claims, whereas an owner just wants his car to last. I would suggest a more protective oil is more important than the frequency of the changes. Mobil 0W40 simply does not have the film strength of many other oils. All engines have loosness and some degree of balance problems. Unless you have the proper film strength in the oil between the moving parts, the constant pounding will eventually create too much heat and occasional contact of the componants. Compound the loosness with constant changes in torque, an inferior oil will eventually lead to problems. Nothing personal here... But complete unfounded BS, you just don't know when to stop do you? It's been documented by Porsche that 15w is NOT a recommended oil weight for the M96. Many Porsche dealers and many more indy shops use 0w-40 and for good reason. It's what Porsche engineers put time and energy and $ to deliver. Who are you to recommend 15w on Porsche forums thereby exposing unsuspecting newbies to your vitriol? The more you push 15w, the more mental you become. What's highly convenient is you have not the $ or time or skills top back your 15w cheerleading hubris on my M96, Loren's M96, phillip's M96, Nancy's M96. All you got is your keyboard and a broadband connection just like the rest of us. :)

Cool perspective, BP.

This happens WAY TOO OFTEN. :)

So did I have that reversed? The newer design is a single row (simpler, less parts) than the older design with double?

I have a MK2 996 with a reman engine. I'm curious to know how one can tell if it has the latest IMS bearing design (dual-row) v. the single row in the MK1 3.4s. Do all 3.6s come with the dual row from '02 onward? Can you tell by the engine #?

we can split hairs over depreciation and $ figures all day but at the end of the day, it's not just $15K out the door... it's $15K worth of time and energy lost on something one should never have to go thru in the first place. it's not just a porsche. it's $15K you could spend on something that's just as memorable or better like a nice vacation with loved ones or a white face rolex daytona plus a panerai luminor to round out the collection v. spending it on an engine on a car that should've come with one that works reliably in the first place - it's a Porsche right? to the Op, i wouldn't hesitate to get a reman mk1 996 assuming all else checks out. your chances of another failure are slim.

1) i'd skip the mk1 996s and go for an mk2s. if that's outta your budget just wait. 2) yea do you think it's fair? 3) engine failure 4) yes the total PPI including compression/leakdown should cost you less than $300 at a reputable indy 5) good luck, bud. the 996 carrera is a very fun car.

git er done... rg5bs r the best looking wheels champ offers and better looking imo than the hre above. what' i'd do is get the precision porsche side skirts and rear valences and get original techart front and rear wings. itll cost ya around $12k-13k installed is my guess. for that kinda money now, i'd rather apply it towards a 997tt. booch don't do the 996TT man, skip it.

Thanks man! I'll get more pics when my girl and I do a photo shoot soon. As for changing the ride height... I really don't have much choice. I scrape the bumper all over town with the current setup. Either I leave it as is and the car is a garage queen, or I raise it up a bit and get some use out of it. The decision is already made.... :P good luck its gonna look whack with a 2" gap dog.. maybe .5"

Agreed and I'd for further by extending that to ALL cars. If you have cash, go buy what you've always wanted to buy. AMG, M, Ferraris, RS, etc. It'll be like this in autodom for quite some time. But I would never advise someone to go out and buy an original engine MK1 996. It'll cost you $25K to get into a water-cooled 911, but you're potentially staring at a $12-15K bill for a reman Porsche factory engine + labor and this price will never go down.

it's not the same thing. the vanos/rod issue on the S54, i believe, impacted far less engines than the M96. you don't have an RMS, IMS leak, IMS bearing failure, coolant/oil intermix deal with the S54. it is what i would call a bulletproof engine, very rare to hear of failures esp after the offical TSB by BMW plus the wonderful extended engine warranty. porsche should've been forthright like bmw s54, but they were and are tight lipped about it and it just causes greater anxiety for current owners and potential buyers.

yes you shouls replace the RMS, not sure if an IMS replacement is available. Doing a search in the forum, perhaps the DIY section will get you the part numbers. if it ain't broken, don't mess with it. a reman engine is a good thing.

except for the reman engine right? did it fail via IMS...? Yes, since my name is pretty well known around the forum circles, it's very clear that my car has a reman engine since I asked about the whole reman v. original thing back when I was like 2+ years ago. The original was replaced at 13K miles, but I'm not the original owner so I don't know the reasons why it was replaced. My guess is they replaced it for RMS issues. IMS doesn't pop up that early usually based on just being active in the 911 online forum community. I may actually have a new factory engine.

probably a quart every oil change (5K miles) - i tend to keep the revs high so to be quite clear... once warmed up shift at 4-4.5K usually... i don't hesitate to redline in appropriate circumstances. :) my PSE gets heard, but within street legal limits of course. :) so from a timeline perspective... a quart every 6 months. minimal annoyance level here. that's not bad.... keep an eye on it and see if it gets worst over the next year... do you track it? if so how frequently...? i've never tracked the c4s and don't plan on it perhaps autox. i've had the car for over 2 years and 25K+ miles... consistent and reliable... zero issues save for the 5 year old OEM battery and clutch switch.

probably a quart every oil change (5K miles) - i tend to keep the revs high so to be quite clear... once warmed up shift at 4-4.5K usually... i don't hesitate to redline in appropriate circumstances. :) my PSE gets heard, but within street legal limits of course. :) so from a timeline perspective... a quart every 6 months. minimal annoyance level here.

there seems to be this popular notion, a follow the leader mentality that an engine that does not burn oil is somehow better than an engine that does when in fact the only downside with the latter is the annoyance factor in topping off oil however frequently you need to do it. more greater the frequency the more annoying it gets. so long as it's within porsche's allowance, i wouldn't be afraid of the engine... with that said.... porsche's allowance requires a lot of annoying time spent topping off plus expense. my S54 M3 engine burned oil. it dynoed higher than any stock S54 at the dyno day here back several years ago. my f20c honda engine burned oil. same dyno results relative to others. i followed the break-in guidelines to a tee. so me making the claim that an engine that does burn moderate amounts of oil means greater relative power output... it's just as absurd of a claim/notion that it's somehow better, more desireable to have an engine that does burn oil. good luck with your "issue". not many porsches that i've read about burn as much oil as yours. it seems excessive. but again the answer is not running oil weights/brands not on porsche's recommended list. your engines made more HP because they were loose... oval cylinders... worn rings... so less friction... hence more HP... you know what they say.... they run the strongest just before they blow!! just like a higher mileage engine performing better... once its broken in its a lot faster... its looser... but oil burning @ 1 quart per 600 miles means something else is wrong... all the engines have run perfectly since i still know the owners i sold the car to and my m96 has likely had less issues than yours IIRC. let's be real here and not cry wolf. so I guess you and your owners constitute a statistically representative sample...? :clapping: and I never had any issues with my car... it was a heavily tracked C2 that just had bearing failure one day due to the bad design of the 3.4 and oil starvation... and yes it was burning oil... lots of it... but boy was it fast... it was faster than a 3.6 on the Andretti straitaway @ mosport... and at the track that day it burned a full 2 litres in 2 hours... cry wolf... ? where have you been? this is a well documented problem in these engines... even @ Sebring lots of the 3.4 (including the new cayman s) pop their motors due to oil starvation... X-51 oil pan fixes that or definitely prolongs it (I know this for a fact from guys who track down there) and even the 3.6 are affected @ Sebring... with similar symptoms... you want to burn oil... ok say 1 quart every 6-7000 miles would be acceptable... if your tracking hard... running the engine hot etc... but every six hundred miles... yah right ... looks like Porsche don't want to solve their problem... lets see how the current crop of DFI 3.6 and 3.8 motors do with oil burning... so far from what I"m hearing they are ALL oil burners... lets see how long they last... smoke crack? to stay on topic here and not revert to the usual hobby racer banter so popular with the track hobbyists... -3.6 > 3.4 -my cars past and present did burn oil -they all ran fine and put out good power relative to others well within manufacturer guidelines -an engine that burns oil is normal and owners who do have engines that require topping off should NOT be alarmed as your post implies (typical internet crying wolf, alarmist style) -recommending that others run 15w on the m96 is absolutely bad advice esp since the person recommending it certainly isn't going to put money where his mouth is the OP's engine sounds like it's burning oil excessively and the answer to his problem is not to run BMW oil or 15w.

YOUR ride looks F ing siq! congrats man more pics. cool to learn about loren. and bro lifting it 2" is going to look horrible. trust me.