Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Cleaner for air induction system. http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
I want to clean out the car's air intake using BG44K (similar idea to Seafoam). Where is the best place to introduce the fluid into the engine? In other cars I've used the PCV vacuum hose, but with our cars that's kind of inconvenient to get to. Some people use the brake booster line, but that seems to only reach one bank of cylinders. Is there another place?
After an long search I found 1 thread about RemoteTop. I removed the module and now the LED's are off and things seem to be normal again. Time to contact Wilhelmy and see what's up.
I was taking an oil sample today and when I got done I noticed that all 4 of the alarm LED's on the dash are lit solid red all the time. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is running or off, or even if the key is in the ignition, they are on the whole time. However nothing seems to be amiss with the car, it runs fine and the key remote seems to work fine. Anybody got a clue what this means?
smackboy1 replied to Chuck996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)How involved do you want to get? I'm not an expert by any means, but I have used Dr. ColorChip, Langka and the old school wet sand and polish. I also have an arctic silver metallic and a seal grey metallic car. The metallic paint is really hard to get an invisible touch up repair and the light shade of the arctic silver makes it that much harder to hide. It doesn't matter what method you use or which touch up paint you use, the little flecks of metal in the repair are just not going to match the surrounding factory paint exactly. FWIW here is my summary: Old school wet sand and polish - Use the factory touch up paint and some elbow grease. Done right this probably gives the best result, but it requires some skill and practice. Screw it up and you can make the damage even worse by sanding off too much paint. You also need to buy a bunch of different supplies. But if you want a repair where you can't feel the repair at all with your fingertips or fingernails, this is the way. Here is a set of really good instructions http://bugmanweb.com/c6/c6files/paintchipsbynon.pdf Langka - Basically Langka is a chemical (feels like lotion and I suspect it maybe an acetone compound). When repairing scratches, instead of wet sanding down the touch up paint blob, you use the Langka on a t-shirt to remove the excess paint and smooth the blob so it's flush with the factory paint surface. Langka does not dissolve the factory paint so it's safer than wet sanding. To do it right you should probably still use polish and hand glaze to finish the repair. IMHO, although it's easier and more idiot proof than wet sanding, the results are not as good. You just can't get the surface of the repair as smoothly blended with the surrounding paint with a t-shirt. I can blend the repair better wet sanding than using Langka. I use Langka to remove the bulk of the blob, but finish it with some wet sanding. http://www.langka.com/ Dr. ColorChip - It's a very easy DIY system which uses what looks like thinned touch up paint and a chemical like Langka. The paint is smeared into the scratch and any excess is wiped off using the Langka-like chemical. It's easy, fast and idiot proof, but the results are not as good as the other methods. I use it when I am lazy and I have to repair a larger area with lots of small scratches and it's in an out of the way location. http://drcolorchip.com/
I have searched the RTFM and I am rapidly coming to the conclusion my only hope is a dealer reprogramming. But if anybody has any other suggestions I have nothing to lose trying them. 2003 C2 Coupe. On vacation for about 2 weeks with the car parked. When I return, remote #1 will not wirelessly unlock/lock the car. I set off the alarm opening the door. Turning the key in the ignition shuts off the alarm and starts the engine. - Remote #2 works OK, no problems. - I lock and unlock the door with the key and press the remote button - remote #1 is still dead (but LED flashes) - I change remote #1 battery - still dead - I try the reverse battery polarity trick to restart the processor - when I press the button, the LED just flashes slowly instead of a fast flash, but the remote is still dead. - I reread all the posts about dead remote keys, RTFM, try every combination of turning the key in the lock and pressing the button - the remote is still dead. - Resigned to being out $150 to have the dealer reprogram the remote, I compose this last hope post :help:
I have a 2003 C2 w/ X74 suspension and 235/40R18 285/30R18 tires. Does anybody know what the maximum negative camber adjustment possible on the front wheels? The factory spec is F -0.5 deg (30') R -1.67 deg (1* 40'). I am thinking of adjusting it to F -1 deg R -2 deg. Can anybody offer any feedback on how that will feel or offer their experiences with different X74 alignments? I drive mostly on the street with the some track days and autocross.
Here's a few videos http://fr.truveo.com/VARIOCAM-BY-PORSCHE/id/1073970301 http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...videoid=7064521 http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...videoid=7065336
Here's the latest post I found on the subject: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-names-etc.html
Unfortunately booster car seat models get regularly updated so I would guess that none of the seats mentioned in the old posts are available anymore. I just went through researching this exact issue. This is the most current post on the subject I found http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-names-etc.html I ended up getting the Recaro Vivo Lite http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3441465 It fits OK with the rear seat cushion and rear seat back in place, but there's not much leg room. I found it fit best after I removed the rear seat cushions and seat backs entirely. The booster is plush and very rigid so it's fine just like that. NOTE: I installed these seats on a 2003 Coupe, not the Cabrio I have listed in my sig. Although I see no reason why it wouldn't fit in a cab.
smackboy1 replied to vrex's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)You can compare different tire sizes using this calculator http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp 295/35R18 is only 1.04% bigger diameter than the stock 285/35R18. As long as the wheels can handle the tire then it should be OK. The general rule is +/- up to 3% diameter change is OK. Another thing to keep in mind is that the stock 225 front, 285 rear understeers quite a bit. Going to 295 in the rears if it does anything, will make it understeer more. Might consider running 235 front, 295 rear. Small changes in tire size like this are not going to mess up your AWD. Porsche uses a viscous slip center diff so there is no solid physical connection between the front and rear axles. Plus the system is set up to provide a minimum of 5% drive to the front axle all the time so there is almost always a speed difference in the center diff. A 1-3% difference in tire diameter isn't going to break anything. More important is to make sure the wheel well and the wheel can handle the tire. Oh, and the speedo will be a bit off.
smackboy1 replied to badasbike's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)At todays prices, I would imagine a cost benefit analysis taking into account labor, parts, reliability, repair, warranty, resale and headaches would come out in favor of just going out and buying a TT and putting the current ride up for sale. Another idea is to install a supercharger kit. It''s pretty much plug and play, no need to mess with compression or reprogramming the ECU. When it's time to sell, just unbolt it and you're back to stock.
smackboy1 replied to paulus's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I have 235/40R18 up front without any problems (street, track, autocross). The regular C4 is a narrow body like the C2. The C4S is the wide body like the Turbo. BTW, if you're looking for a street performance tire, take a look at the Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 (or new model AD08). I came off Rossos (hated them) and the Yokohamas have been phenomenal all around. Probably not as good on the track as a DOT-legal competition tire like the Corsa, but when it rains the Yokohama probably evacuates water a little better.
smackboy1 replied to smackboy1's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)No part #s apparent. But the springs have 3 colored paint dots: orange, white, blue. The dampers have a "T" on the tubes. The anti roll bars size don't seem to match anything Porsche or even H&R (24.3 mm front, 20 mm rear). The dealer couldn't make a positive ID. I think the dampers and springs are X74 (see photo). The ARB is probably unknown aftermarket.
smackboy1 replied to smackboy1's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)That is what I am thinking, aftermarket shocks. If the shocks do not have a big sticker or remnant of one with a barcode on it, it is aftermarket. Also look on the rear roll bar on the left side and see if you can find a paint dot. If you can tell us what color it is. Also on the springs there should be 3 paint marks on them. what color are those. I don't know. I did not have the car jacked up and I couldn't really get a good look. I didn't see any stickers on the shock tubes from my exam. From looking at pictures of shocks from websites e.g. Tirerack, Suncoast, Carnewal and also photos of X74 shocks, it looks like X74s only have 1 sticker and regular yellow Bilsteins have more stickers. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/for-...-sway-bars.html I'm getting a PPI and I asked the dealer to ID the suspension. Hopefully they will be able to positively ID them.