Benjamin Choi

there seems to be this popular notion, a follow the leader mentality that an engine that does not burn oil is somehow better than an engine that does when in fact the only downside with the latter is the annoyance factor in topping off oil however frequently you need to do it. more greater the frequency the more annoying it gets. so long as it's within porsche's allowance, i wouldn't be afraid of the engine... with that said.... porsche's allowance requires a lot of annoying time spent topping off plus expense. my S54 M3 engine burned oil. it dynoed higher than any stock S54 at the dyno day here back several years ago. my f20c honda engine burned oil. same dyno results relative to others. i followed the break-in guidelines to a tee. so me making the claim that an engine that does burn moderate amounts of oil means greater relative power output... it's just as absurd of a claim/notion that it's somehow better, more desireable to have an engine that does burn oil. good luck with your "issue". not many porsches that i've read about burn as much oil as yours. it seems excessive. but again the answer is not running oil weights/brands not on porsche's recommended list. your engines made more HP because they were loose... oval cylinders... worn rings... so less friction... hence more HP... you know what they say.... they run the strongest just before they blow!! just like a higher mileage engine performing better... once its broken in its a lot faster... its looser... but oil burning @ 1 quart per 600 miles means something else is wrong... all the engines have run perfectly since i still know the owners i sold the car to and my m96 has likely had less issues than yours IIRC. let's be real here and not cry wolf.

there seems to be this popular notion, a follow the leader mentality that an engine that does not burn oil is somehow better than an engine that does when in fact the only downside with the latter is the annoyance factor in topping off oil however frequently you need to do it. more greater the frequency the more annoying it gets. so long as it's within porsche's allowance, i wouldn't be afraid of the engine... with that said.... porsche's allowance requires a lot of annoying time spent topping off plus expense. my S54 M3 engine burned oil. it dynoed higher than any stock S54 at the dyno day here back several years ago. my f20c honda engine burned oil. same dyno results relative to others. i followed the break-in guidelines to a tee. so me making the claim that an engine that does burn moderate amounts of oil means greater relative power output... it's just as absurd of a claim/notion that it's somehow better, more desireable to have an engine that does burn oil. good luck with your "issue". not many porsches that i've read about burn as much oil as yours. it seems excessive. but again the answer is not running oil weights/brands not on porsche's recommended list.

If your '99 comes with a reman motor from Porsche, then I wouldn't worry about all that other stuff cuz all you would be doing is losing hair over something you no longer need to care about. I've rarely, if ever, heard of a reman engine failing unlike the originals. Again, just make sure it's a reman engine from Porsche factory. Myself, I would never buy or recommend to a potential buyer an original "engined" MK1 996. I have less concerns when it comes to the 3.6 motor in the MKIIs, but still prefer a reman over original in all cases. No one but Porsche has the answer to the question you pose. Porsche has been and will be tight-lipped about their engine issues. So much for the awesome German engineering! I'm certainly not a Porsche snob, but very much a realist. All manufacturers have their pros/cons. Nobody's perfect. No car is perfect.

Don't get the 2s, get the Conti3s.

with tires, you get what you pay for. trying to buy tires based on someone else's feedback on the internet should be taken as very general guidance. PS2s are top notch, but they are some of the most expensive street tires on the market. the next tier you're looking at BS RE050A PPs, and Conti 3s. they offer similar levels of performance and at a slightly more affordable clip than the michelins. figure out what you want. you can't get a super sticky tire and expect long wear. quiet? what's quiet unless you know your earing capabilities are equal to some unknown stranger sitting behind a computer somewhere in this world? i don't bother with sumitomos, falkens, whatever... i will stick with the major brands. why? cuz i trust them. with that said, i have purchased a PS2 tire where it came out of round (wheels simply would not balance). no one's perfect. but really, for your porsche, don't cheap out on tires. spend a bit more since it's obviously absolutely vital to getting the best driving experience possible out of your 911. people are very good at hyping up what their wallet buys including budget tires. :)

so it is a matter of time before u get banned from renntech.......... :P ps.......i liked ur car more with the silver rims...... :angry: i actually think loren thinks i'm a pretty cool guy the silver ones are in storage right next to the oem wheels big dog ;)

this happened to my c4s yesterday. it literally reads "failure indicator" with the oil can/fuel icon on the OBC to the left of the words. i can't say if my pressure guage went haywire at the same time because i didn't look at it at all. replaced oil pressure sending unit per suggestions here and in other threads. dealer cleared the fault code too. should be fine now! thx all.

i've run re050A PP, PS2s, and now Conti3s. they're all very close in performance. i got about 20K miles from the rears of my last set (PS2).

thanks for the response guys! JeTexas, im thinking those mods are adding more air in the car and its overly compensating with oil and fuel? i'am also getting less mpg than originally when i had the cars w/o modifications. im not complaining about mpg though, more oil consumption than anything else. any feel for your 996 oil consumption over a 1000 mile period anyone? Move to the Mobil 15W50 I suggested above as it has better cleaning agents than any of the other Mobil synthetics. I have yet to see an engine that burns oil using Mobil 0W40 that did not substantially reduce or eliminate oil burning. the directions on the box say don't exceed 4 tablets in the span of 24 hours your dealer said gulp down about 15 of those bad boys to handle business

no

no

sounds like you have a very cool mom with great taste

it is my mom's

Thanks, and that's coming from a guy with a majorly siq car!!! Some people actually thought you were selling your car. I cross posted this over on Rennlist and people were thinking it was this awesome looking C4S below. Recognize it? def good luck with the transaction, bud. i got booted off rennlist and 6speed because i speak my mind. your soon-to-be c4s is one of THE best looking 911s on the road today. 99% of the 911s i see online and in person are either stock (zzzzz) or modified. all but 1% mod right and the techart c4s is an absolute jaw dropper. straight ballin'. money can't buy taste, but in this case, you're just handling business! pls post pics once delivered. enjoy the buying process, you'll never forget it :) p.s. my car looks a lil diff these days

that car is stupendously siq

thats prob cuz the 3.4s rarely lasted long enough to see an IMS failure :D good luck with the repairs, bud. i don't recommend the aftermarket. there's just 0 data/history.

7 years on your battery - wow, now that is living on borrowed time. Most batteries last 4-5 years. Yes, you can donate using a credit card. Just click on the "Continue" link that says "Don't have a PayPal account?". My first Porsche battery experience was in 1975 - just bought a 71 911T from my brother. He left the country and then the car wouldn't start. Went to the dealer and found out that there were two 6 volt batteries to be replaced - one in each front fender well. Maybe $160 ($80 each??) but in 1975 that was a lot of money to me. that's a ton of dough for batteries esp given that a brand new 996 battery 2009 costs $120.

Well, that depends. If your battery is very weak, all the electronics may come on but if you try to start the car, the load may be too high for the battery and the car won't even crank. This is more pronounced when the temperature is low, since the battery has less usable power then. A weak battery may crank the engine slowly when the weather is warm and not at all when the weather is cold. Also, the volt meter may read a healthy 12 volts but that's under almost no load and doesn't give you an accurate battery condition reading. I've had the same experience with my S4 and it ended being just a very weak battery. Anyway, glad you figured it out! true, but the test then is to pump your clutch while the key is fully turned to the right and if it starts, likely the clutch switch (this is what happened with mine) good points all around. great thread. seems like this is very common .

i think the fact that this forum tends to be more issues focused... it'll keep me from getting banned like on rennlist and 6speed. it's when people come on posting up pics of their cars and mods and cheerleading it when clearly it's a pos/questionable... I can't handle keeping my keyboard shut - the simon cowell attitude comes out (which i personally find very refreshing/entertaining). :D if the car ain't cranking at all but electrics come on and it tends to occur when the car is cold, it's likely the clutch switch. when mostly warm, then it may be the starter engine which i understand is about $200 with a $500 core charge at sunset imports (rebuilt model which comes with the same 2- year parts warranty). if the car is cranking with hesitation... it's likely your battery esp if you're on the original in a 996 (even if the voltage looks good)

based on my experience/research when my airbag light came on, it came down to replacing the passenger side buckle. i had tried to avoid the expenditure by resetting the light a couple of times at the deadership, but it always ended up coming back on. i believe the updated buckle has some sort of gold plating, not sure, but i remember the job was more expensive than i though it'd be. i had the dealer help me find out which buckle was triggering the light and just replaced that one side. if it comes on again and the driver side buckle is causing the airbag light to come on, i'll deal with it if and when that time comes. i also believe porsche released a service bulletin around this issue. i'm not sure exactly what years it impacts.

Glad it is fixed..what's the prize...LOL you can call me a renntech brother now :D

7 years on your battery - wow, now that is living on borrowed time. Most batteries last 4-5 years. Yes, you can donate using a credit card. Just click on the "Continue" link that says "Don't have a PayPal account?". Done. Thx, sir. Car is dialed in. Thx for the assist. This site is very valuable. it's like the 911 wizards live her.e

For those who said it's a battery issue, you get a prize. I swapped out the battery and the engine turns over with much greater vigor. I think it's been fading for quite some time. My battery is the original '02 Porsche battery that came with the car. Lasted quite a while. Sweet. The clutch switch also needed to be swapped out for my morning zero engine crank action issue. Any way to donate money to Renntech without using PayPal? Thanks, all!!! :)

je, in the mornings, the thing doesn't crank at ALL. electrics work. that's why im suspecting it's also the switch perhaps. and then it was last nite where the car was slow to crank and took a couple of tries. or maybe it's the starter because the car was driven for about 15 miles and was sitting while i was having coffee with a friend. the car's never died on me once fired up.

u think this is the case even with the weird starting action which sounds like its' a clutch switch type deal?