kwiktsi

You know, I just got it to work a little while ago and I did enter the code, then pushed the up button just randomly trying stuff and it came on. Maybe that was it. I don't recall ever doing that before though :unsure: .. Anyone else have any info on this?

Please read this and follow the instructions... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST If the serial number on the screen does not match the one on your card then the radio has been changed out and the code is wrong. In that case follow the rest of the FAQ and I will try and guess your correct code. Umm, read the whole thread- you gave me the code last year and it worked with no problems. Then after putting the car back together after paint earlier this year, it gave me a hard time accepting the code. I just kept entering it over and over until it worked. Now, today I had to change the battery and it is giving me the same problems where it just keeps going back to the first digit no matter how many times I enter the code. I can even enter the incorrect code as many times as I want and it never "locks" like it did last year when I put the wrong code in. It just keeps going back to the first digit every time- whether the code I enter is the correct one or incorrect one. I pulled the correct serial number right from the menu and you gave me the code from that, again- which worked last year, and worked earlier this year after numerous attempts. Now it is not working again- same code...

Ugh, here we go again... Had to replace the battery today and now it won't accept the code again :(. I have entered the code probably 30+ times and it does nothing but go back to the first digit each time. Last time, I just kept trying until it worked, but something has to be wrong. I am turning the key on, turning the radio on and when it says "CODE", I am entering it. Is there something I am missing- like waiting a while with the key on or anything? The odd thing is I can enter an incorrect code as many times as I want and it never locks, just keeps going back to the first digit. This sucks...

Awesome. Good luck with the upgrade and please keep a log or at least post some updates. The P world would be greatful for details along the way! As for the engine, you might get more for it if you can document that it is working, provide repair/maintenance history, and have it removed by a reputable shop. Selling it sight unseen from a stranger with no additional probably won't fetch much. I think the 3.4 would be a nice upgrade for an early boxster ;) -td I bought the car used from a dealer, so there is no previous maintenance history :(. It runs and runs strong, which is why I figured if I can get a potential buyer to look at it and drive it prior to me pulling it, they can verify that for themselves. I agree it would fetch more if pulled by a "reputable" shop, but not enough to justify the cost of paying said shop and having it towed back home- besides, doing a swap like this, I would rather pull it so I can see how/where everything goes in stock form :). I am still not 100% convinced I want to do this, but if I do, I will certainly take some pics and such along the way. Not much for taking detailed pics and doing a writeup though- I typically just keep working when I start and am done before I even think to take pictures. I will try to get as much documented as possible though. Thanks again for the info guys. One more thing- where is a good source for wiring diagrams for this car? I'll certainly be needing them and would like to browse them prior to making a decision..

Thanks for the info. Read my follow up post about the swap though- far more power planned than a TT has for a LOT less money (I do all my own tuning and fab work) :D. The car is going to pretty much get a complete re-wiring anyway :).

Thanks for the info. As for warranty, I agree- I would not pay top dollar without one either, but I will let the buyer drive the car to verify that it is in good running condition if they get to it before I pull it out :). I would also be selling it with everything bolted to it- intake, throttle body, sensors, starter, belt driven accessories, etc. Pull it out, drop it in another car and go. I'm sure that will add to the value some, I'd hope. Either way, even $4k is a good start on the project if I decide to do it :D.

Trans should be fine. An orig. 99 3.4 with 70k is a possible timebomb. Therefore it will not fetch too much $$ as is. What are your power goals? The car you have is non egas and the older DME. Swapping to a 3.6 or 3.8 is going to require a lot of mods. If you feel your current engine is solid, then a supercharger is probably your best bet. Goodluck. Thanks for the info. To be honest, I wasn't going to discuss the replacement here since I know many will shake their heads in shame, but the power goals are going to involve a twin turbo LSx motor- if I do this. Far beyond what a 3.4 with a supercharger will provide :). I was going to just turbo the 3.4, but there is no DIY tuning software available that I have found and I am not going to over pay a shop to tune it just because of the name. Even if I did, it still won't provide nearly the power I am looking for. With the LSX, I can do all my own tuning and fab work. I am the "nobody touches my car but me" type and this is EVERYTHING from paint to engine work to custom fabbing to tuning- I do it all. I used to own a shop doing performance work, now it is just a hobby. I just can't justify paying someone else to do it for me when I am more than capable and probably have more experience than they do :). I sold my twin turbo GTO and am just kicking around ideas for a suitable replacement power wise. I was going to buy something else, but already own this and the car is already a repaint with a non-oem color, so I figured it is already "ruined"- I might as well go all the way :).

I am thinking of pulling the stock ~70k mile 3.4 from my 99 Carrera to upgrade the car and was curious what the 3.4 was worth? Also, with the higher power goals, I'd assume I'm going to need a different trans, so that will probably be for sale as well. The motor and trans both work as they should. The buyer would be able to drive the car prior to purchase if I get prices and get them listed soon. I would rather offer the parts up on the forum than put them on fleabay, so I am curious what fair prices were to ask for either. Thanks in advance for any advice. Joe

Sorry, just saw the replies. I tried the MMO to clean it prior to my last oil change and it is still present when warm at idle. I have not tried anything else. anyone have any luck trying anything else? I'm ultimately going to have to replace them, but wanted to see what others were doing first.

I never called, never got a chance to- but I did get it to work. I just kept entering the code over and over until it came on- odd because it did show the right code on the display, but kept going back to the first digit. Even if I just entered it and waited to see if it would come on it just sat there flashing the first digit. I don't get it. At least it is working now :).

Thanks for the number, I'll give them a call in a bit.

Please don't take any offense to this- but did you even read my problem before just habitually posting the link? I have the radio code and I have read the FAQ- it does not cover this at all. I have also searched "not accepting radio code" and have not found this same problem mentioned anywhere. My radio does not say "wait" but I have tried leaving the key and radio on for 1 hour anyway with no luck. The code worked just fine last year when you gave it to me. It is not accepting it now. I can enter it and it goes right back to the first digit like it would if you had the incorrect code. I can also enter an incorrect code as many times as I want and it never says "wait" like it would with the wrong code before. Anyone ever seen this? Did you do as the FAQ suggests and verify the radio serial number? Does that part work? Yes, the serial number is the same as last year when I pulled the deck out and gave it to you- I checked it as per the FAQ this time (tone, 8+0)just to make sure it didn't somehow "change". I can get to the Becker menu just fine. It is just when I go to enter the code that it isn't working. I have left the key and radio on for an hour just in case it was locked- though it didn't say "wait", I disconnected the battery for a while and tried again also with no luck. I can enter code after code (right or wrong) with nothing happening but it going back to the first digit of the code.

Thanks for the reply. I should clarify- I got the code from Loren last year, within the usual +2, +4, -2, -4 range and got it to work last year (he gave me 4674 and it turned out to be 4676). That is what worked in September, so I wrote it down and even posted in my thread last year which one worked. I am trying the same code now (along with the other variations given in that thread just in case I wrote it down wrong) and it is not working. Like I said, the funny thing is I can enter an incorrect code as many times as I want without it locking up and saying "wait" also. Strange.

Please don't take any offense to this- but did you even read my problem before just habitually posting the link? I have the radio code and I have read the FAQ- it does not cover this at all. I have also searched "not accepting radio code" and have not found this same problem mentioned anywhere. My radio does not say "wait" but I have tried leaving the key and radio on for 1 hour anyway with no luck. The code worked just fine last year when you gave it to me. It is not accepting it now. I can enter it and it goes right back to the first digit like it would if you had the incorrect code. I can also enter an incorrect code as many times as I want and it never says "wait" like it would with the wrong code before. Anyone ever seen this?

Hey guys, I had my battery disconnected for most of the winter and am trying to enter my radio code (210 radio) with no luck. I used the code in September, so I know it is the correct one. I turn the key on, it says "code", I enter my code and it keeps going back to the first digit like it would do if the code was wrong. I had read that they will lock you out if they code is entered wrong so many times, requiring you to leave the radio on for an hour and was wondering if maybe a friend was playing with it while we were working on the car causing it to lock- but I read it says "wait" when this happens and mine isn't doing that. Any ideas?