hummitz

No luck on cleaning them. I removed them and gave them a thorough cleaning and after re-installing they are still spraying the underside of the hood (frunk) - although with a bit more volume now. So I'm onto the replacement route. I called my local porsche dealer and they said they had the passenger side in stock but would have to order the driver side. Are they different? In looking for part numbers I can only find what Loren provided above (Thanks Loren). They actually look slightly different (just the actual hole where the fluid comes out). They also quoted me $70 each. So am I looking for two different parts or two of the same? Thanks.

I definitely have the B style. Was just going to try and clean it out (not adjust) before going the replacement route.

Thanks guys. I'll try the pin first... if it doesn't work I'll cross my fingers on the replacement option.

Both of my windshield washer nozzles are spraying the underside of the hood. I'm still getting enough on the windshield to get it clean but was wondering if there's a fix for this. The nozzles don't appear to be adjustable. I don't want to replace them and end up with the same problem. Any ideas? My car is an 03 C4S. Thanks.

Finally had a peak and sure enough one of the shifter cables was halfway out of the bracket. Looks like the clip is busted. Thanks for the help!!

I haven't checked under the car yet. Do you mean where the shifter cables attach to the transmission? Do I need to remove any panels under there or is it in plain sight? I have seen some pix in here on how the two cables attach to the transmission but I'm not sure they were pictures that would apply to my 2003 C4S. Thanks for the tips!

About a year ago, I was parking my 2003 C4S and it got stuck in gear (1st or 2nd... I can't remember). The weird thing was, the stick became very loose and could move all over (like stirring a pot of soup) but it was stuck in gear. I finally got things back to normal by just moving the stick around a bit. I then put in a B&M short shifter and the problem seemed to disappear... until yesterday. It got stuck in 4th gear this time and again the stick was loose and could move all over. I then moved the stick into reverse and it shifted just fine and was back to normal after this... but trying any of the other gears didn't seem to fix the problem - only until I shifted into reverse. Anyone with any thoughts on the culprit?

Pulled the relay and no drivers side lights on! (no DRL's either... obviously). So next step is to replace the relay. Thanks for the help!

Sounds like a logical next step. Is there a DIY on this? I have no idea where to start.

The car is a canadian car so DRLs were installed out of the gate. Great suggestion on the side park lights. Unfortunately(?) they are working as they should. The right side comes on when the switch is turned and keys are out of the ignition - as does the left side. Everything seems to be working as it should other than the left (drivers) side lights being on when the car is running (with switch off). I may have to track down a wiring diagram and trace out where this problem could come from.

No luck. Replaced the headlight switch last night and same problem... drivers side lights all lit up! I'm not too sure where to go from here. Any suggestions? Thanks again.

I tried that last night and got fairly rammy with it and nothing... not even a flicker. My original thought was to start with replacing the switch and see what happens?

I was drving to work yesterday and a big truck with a chrome grill pulled up behind me and I could see my drivers side rear lights were on but the switch was off. Nothing lit up on the passenger side. When I got to work I noticed the drivers side front fender light (side marker) was also on - switch still off. When I turn on the lights (switch) the passenger side lights all come on - rear taililghts and side markers. Everything turns off when I turn the car off. I have a 2003 C4S and have daytime running lights. Any suggestions on where to start my troubleshooting? Thanks in advance!

I contacted Porsche Canada and inquired about some good will on the engine replacement (due to the low mileage) and they are "unable to provide any goodwill". I asked if Porsche would consider selling me an engine at their cost and they simply repeated "we are unable to provide any goodwill". But I did make some calls to some dealerships in the States and it looks like there are some significant savings to be had going down there (thanks Dharn55 - Sunset is the cheapest so far). Warranty is still honored in Canada as well. Just have to check into the border implications. Thanks to all for the input!

That's kinda what I thought. I'm in Calgary, Alberta. There are a couple good independents in the city that are looking into some options for me. Hopefully something comes from that.

Just got back from the local dealership and after pulling the plugs on my 2003 C4S they found a fouled plug in cylinder 5. So they did a borescope and found significant scaring in the cylinder. I saw the video and I definitely have a problem. They provided a quote of over $22,000 to replace the engine (3.6). Aside from my huge disappointment that after only 36,000 km I have a problem like this, the bill to fix it is a bit overwhelming. I've placed some calls to some independent shops in town to explore some other options - have to wait and see how that pans out. Has anyone replaced an engine through Porsche recently? Did the cost compare to the quote I've been given? I should mention I'm in Canada. Any advice on new, rebuilt, used, etc.? Any comments are appreciated. Thanks.

Wondering if someone can help explain the color of my exhaust? My 2003 C4S (just passed 30,000 km or 18,600 mi) is creeping up to 1L per 600 - 700 km and seems to be worse when driven hard. I had someone follow me to check out the exhaust and appartently I look like a diesel (black exhaust) when stepping on it from start (espescially out the left side). After doing some research through this forum (which has been very helpful), it looks like the first place to start would be the AOS. This makes sense to me but I would have expected my exhaust to be blue if it was burning oil. Could the black exhaust be a faulty sensor (due to oil bypass through AOS maybe) making things too rich? Any comments are greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!

All speaker wires are on the amp, including the sub woofer. I don't think the optic bus goes only to the amp, because of the radio display in the instrument cluster. I now get 4 dashes in the display. I think if the radio is deleted from the system with a PST2, those dashes will go away. I used the power output from the Kenwood, 50 watts x 4 and it sounds much better than the cdr23. I also hooked the dash and door speakers in series for the front, because they checked out at 2 ohms each, so in series that would be 4 ohms, which is OK for the kenwood. There is no sense putting an amp in if you do not replace all the speakers. That means doing a new complete intall ! Isn't it possible to keep amp and speakers, convert 2 ohms to 4 ohms, and eliminate the optic bus by replacing by a "classic" connection ? Even if the Kenwood is much better, it's one the other hand, a pity to send all the expensive Bose system to the bin... I could not get the amp to work. All the stereo shops I talked to, said get rid of the amp. Its not feasable. By the way, I checked ebay to see if I could sell the cdr23, and the going price was like $20.00 Nobody wants them. jr 152, It's nice to finally read a post where someone has accomplished removing the MOST + BOSE. I have called some high end car audio guys in town and no one has done this. A couple said they are nervous because on some other germans (MB) they have tried a conversion and it messed up the rest of the cars comp system. Did you have any problems with the computer or car in general after your conversion? Do you have any pics? Forgive my green-ness but is the general procedure to replace head unit, run new hook-up to new amp and use exisiting speaker wires to connect to new amp (paying attention to ohms)? Is the head unit and amp power there or is it part of the fiber optic system? Sorry for all the questions but I need to replace the becker and I've finally found someone that has done it! Thanks!

Thanks boxs2000 but I don't believe the 986 MY99 and MY00 have the MOST fiber optic setup. I have a MY03 C4S and was hoping to install a double din aftermarket nav without having to remove the MOST system and rewire everything. I have yet to come across any plug and play systems for this. As far as I know my only option is to run new amps, wire, etc.

I've read a TON of posts on this topic but have yet to come across a success story. Has anyone installed an aftermarket nav system without rewiring, re-amping, etc.? Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!