Jon996

Thanks Golden, this looks super too. Perhaps I should buy the pad first then go looking at jacks! I went out yesterday, and none of the ones I looked at had a 4" diameter pad (for Geoff's option) and at least my low profile aluminum jack does not have a removable pad for the nice option you have. But thanks all for the replies!

Thanks--this looks great! Still have it at delubozparts: LINK Is the diameter of yours 4"? Just need to find an appropriate floor jack (mine has a smaller diameter pad)

Thanks Loren and carrera. I hate to admit, but I had a rather "unfortunate incident" recently using only the rubber pad on my jack. My mistake, of course, but do not want to repeat. (On the plus side damage was only about $300 for a trim piece and labor--could have been WAY worse.)

Here's a question for you DIY types. Does anyone sell a floor jack pad with a pin to engage the hole on the 996 jack points? I thought I had found one at Pelican, but the diameter is huge (6.25 inches)--must be for a commercial lift.

Just interested--what are the symptoms? I have heard about a rattle, but not sure if it is a constant rattle or a rattle just when going over bumps.

That's it! I think (but am not sure) that the 996 C4S shares the same skirt with the Turbo. Where do you get these great diagrams! Edit: I am not quite sure if this is the right piece. I am looking for the black plastic piece that might be just below this. It might be called the Rocker Panel Cover too. . . . Thanks again for your help I think I might need this part: 996-504-363-00-01C-M100 but need to confirm somehow.

That's it! I think (but am not sure) that the 996 C4S shares the same skirt with the Turbo. Where do you get these great diagrams!

Thanks much for the help, but I think the name of the piece I need is the driver's side Side Skirt. On my car (C4S) it's black plastic. The jack slid just enough to break the skit mounts.

For the first time I had a jack slip off the jack point while lifting. Just did not center it good enough. Not a disaster, but I ended up breaking the drivers side bottom black plastic skirt. I have been searching, but could not find the part number for the driver's side skirt for a 2003 996 C4S.

Hi! I have seen the problem of inaccurate readings, but this is a little different. I will be driving along and it will go to zero (with red light flashing) and then get the message "failure of fuel level indicator . ." As I drive along, it typically comes back. If I fill up it always comes back on. The dealer has the sender unit out, but it seems to check out OK. They check resistance as they move the float, and did not pick up any problems. Off warranty, so the idea of replacing the cluster for $2532 plus labor is not very attractive. Anyone here of this problem? Thanks, Jon

I always wanted a 911, but they were always twice what I wanted to afford. At 50 it finally hit me that a slightly used one is not bad either. So 50; 2003 C4S; still thrilled to drive it!

Whew, nice to see how this turned out for you. Now that they are pristine, you might consider having them covered with Ventureshield (or some other clear bra material). I had mine done and it looks great (and does not seem to scratch).

Thanks for the quick reply (again!)!

Greetings again! Can you please give me the part number for item 27 (inner race) in the illustration below! Thanks much!

Hi! I know this has come up a lot, for example: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry14785 Just two questions before I remove the vent: 1. Just wondering why we need to remove covering cap 28. Is there another screw underneath? 2. Last time I tried to remove an AC vent (passenger side this time) I pulled the screws but it was still REALLY stiff and I chickenend out. I saw a few other comments on this, but never a resolution. Are there tabs I am missing? Any other suggestions or tips? The vent is wood trim and I do not want to crack the finish. Thanks--my headlight switch is acting up and I have a new one on order. Best Regards, Jon

Thanks much for the link! Just a potentially dumb question--would access to the tank gauge be through the front trunk compartment or via one of the plastic panels on the bottom? This is an odd problem. Reads fine for a while, goes to zero, then comes back while I am driving! The level of gas in the tank does not seem to be a factor.

Greetings again! Using Search, I found a lot of references to calibration of fuel level, but I have a slightly different problem. My fuel level reads correctly, but recently it has randomly dropped to zero with an error message--I think it was full Level Sender failure or something. As I drive along, the fuel level reading typically comes back on line. Any chance this is a bad connection somewhere? I am not even sure where to look. If the sensor is bad, how hard it it to replace. Thanks again, Jon

As in the title, I was just wondering what can cause a scored cylinder, and what one can do to avoid it? Thanks!

Wow, glad you are OK. I have seen some bad crash photos, and the passengers seem to come out OK. Seems to be a pretty good design that way. Now, for the advice part, you should have had a clear bra.

Hi! Not sure if this is too far from where you want it, but the access is really easy! In my car the light on the ashtray is on the dimmer circuit. I tapped in to light my garage-door switch.

This system has worked well for me, The jack and crosspiece are available from Pelican Parts. AC brand is expensive but there may be cheaper copies around in the US. The ramps are made from chipboard and give just enough height to run the jack under far enough to reach the crossmember. Wow, this looks like a great setup, but I do not think AC is around anymore. (At least I could not find any vendors after about 45 minutes with Google) Hope I am wrong! :)

Ah, the irony . . .

FYI, I had compression and leakdown tests performed at the dealer for $350.

Hi all: Long story, with a resolution. Synopsis: 2003 C4S with CPO purchased a couple years ago with 24K miles. Oil consumption was at about 1 qt per 2000 miles, but suddenly dropped over the winter (a MN winter--the worst kind . . .) to about 1 qt per 600 miles. Not high enough for action at this time. Observations: Seemed to run fine, no smoke at any time. Excessive soot from left muffler. During the summer, I paid for a compression and leakdown test. All cylinders within 5% of each other, and the leakdown max was 2%. Pretty good results, from what I hear. Consumption increased at the next official check to 1.7 qt in 600 miles. Porsche approved kind of a "leap of faith" change of the AOL. Given the fact I did not have any smoke and the soot was not evenly distributed, we did not really expect this to help, and it did not. By now, I had 45 K on the engine and was nearing the end of my CPO. I decided to change plugs early, and have the shop bore scope the cylinders and also just examine the plugs. Plug number 6 was pretty sooty, but the piston heads looked clean. By now, the primary suspicion was leaky valve guides (or is it valve sleeves?). This is a big project to check. So, I was just about to initiate a new usage test, when I sent an accurate record of the consumption (illustrating the change from purchase) and photos of the soot on the bumper and exhaust. My local manager made quite a few calls (THANKS) and Porsche came up with a plan . . . We would remove the engine and examine the cylinder walls. If they were OK, they would replace the seals. If not, they would replace the engine. Cylinder 6 was scored, so they replaced the engine. Running great!

Passenger side. thanks!!!