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Everything posted by benaslan

  1. Thanks for the help. It wouldn't start late yesterday and this morning... I jumped the FP relay, and it started right up. Also, I tried activating it on my Durametric, but it did nothing. Am I doing something wrong, or do I have to have to pro version? Thanks!
  2. Not sure if the last part was clear... is started up again. I drove. When I say I pushed it on the way home, I mean I drove it hard. It felt fine. Should I still test the relay, or should I just wait for whatever it is to just go out?
  3. I was cruising along this morning about 85 or so and it felt like my fuel pump just cut out. I cruised to the side of the road, engine did not die until I put it into neutral, which is why my guess is fuel. No sounds, no error codes, nothing. I tried starting it back up immediately, and it would not. I called AAA for a tow, and sat on hold of course, so I tried again a few minutes later and it started right up. I made it where I was going and back home this afternoon. I did push it a little on the way home as I'd rather pick the time it dies if it does it again. Any other thoughts? Thanks!
  4. And another update to this thread... So, after bit, my misfires came back. If I drove a lot in a day, or went on a long drive, no CEL for a few days. Something was still up though. I ran Techron through a few tanks worth and no change.... Was driving me crazy to still see the light. I am sure the other fixes helped, but there was something still going on. I had a enough and took it into another shop I had used before. It want cheap, but he was confident he could figure it out and it seems like he did. He did a smoke test on the intake and found several small leaks and fixed them (loose hose clamps and such). I bet Carlsen Porsche didn't tighten everything properly when they had my engine out for some trans work some years back. The problem started intermittently after their work, but it was not immediately after so I was never sure. Car sounds night and day different at startup now... Hopefully no future updates to this thread.
  5. Just an update... As of now, I have had no codes nor pending codes for a long time, and normally would have had a code by now. My problem is likely fixed and if it's not, I'd bet any future misfires would be due to carbon build up in my cylinders. The following is all I have done: 1) MAF sensor. I changed this because I read that over-revs can cause it to go bad without a fault code. I got a good deal on Amazon for the exact Bosch part. 2) Fuel Cap. It was clearly old and the o-ring was extremely cracked and dried out. 3) New (and correct) plugs that were gapped at a more appropriate range. The plugs that were in there were Beru 5's and I replaced them with the 6 range in the plugs mentioned above. I've done my best to open up the throttle to clean out the crap, but I have only had one longer drive, so not a whole lot of opportunity to do so other than a few midday ownership of the fwy... I'll post again if there is any future change. Thanks for all the input!
  6. Those plugs were not very old. 1 year max. They didn't look old in person either (must be the pic), just very fouled (and dirty). There was almost no gap and therefore almost no spark. I scanned the forums for plug recommendations and saw a lot of people like the NGK Iridium plugs, so I thought I'd try that since a local parts store had the one I needed-saw online inventory (BKR6EIX)- and for a good price. I gapped them at 0.032" and that should work just fine. It says the design is for improved throttle response and anti-fouling. We'll see. Yes, the coil packs were very clearly new. I verified they are the newer version (997.602.10400/Beru 0040100036). I took the car for a test drive and was impressed. I did get one misfire at start-up in one cylinder, but that could easily be from the gunk that's in my cylinders (it was #6). Time will tell, but hopefully that's it for this issue. I'll try to repost again with more results. Thank you everyone for any help. Much appreciated! ***Forgot to add in here that a lot or people say the coil needs to "click" into the spark plug. There may be different coil packs, or that may be the original 996 pack, but mine sure did not. I tested with the coil out of the car and examined closely. There is a spring in the boot of the coil which looks and feels like it just presses against the plug.
  7. So, that gap is what it says in the workshop manual, but everywhere I look says half that. I just got new plugs and installed them. Need to finish putting everything together after dinner I hope. Not much left to do but that was a bit of a pain. It was certainly clear that there was not enough room in those plugs to generate a decent spark. All the plugs were fouled, but the 3 & 6 were the worst. I labeled and kept them all. We'll see what happens after I finish and probably take a few weeks for a misfire again to come up with new plugs! but hope it doesn't. Any recommendations from anyone for an additive to clean they crud out of my unburned cylinders? I am torn on the mechanic. He had an injury and was out when the work was done by his new people. I'll give him a chance to respond to my email and then decide, but I'm not happy.
  8. I was being lazy and measured it after my post: .018". Had to use a feeler gauge to get in there. That's much smaller than the .06" recommended.
  9. Update to my f'd up thread... First of all, I have had no CEL since replacing the fuel cap, but I did still have some misfires, just not remotely close to enough to even issue a pending code. But, since I still had them, I know it wasn't perfect and wnted to figure it out. Just tore the car apart. First off, solenoid brackets look perfect; no issues there. I pulled the number 6 plug since that one fouled more than any other. It is FUGLY! Not only is it the "wrong" plug and different than I was told was installed (Beru 5LDU versus Bosch 6LDU), but not gapped correctly, or even remotely close to it! So tight I couldn't measure it properly... But somewhere around .015" instead of the book's .06". Any thoughts on the plug choice? I thought Porsche changed the recommended plug to the 6LDU. Clearly the main issue was the gapping, though, right?
  10. Thanks for all the info! I will post when I figure it out. I can't imagine it's anything major for me. If I have a valve issue, It would have degraded performance, yes/no? This car rocks and all RPM except at cold idle (at which it's just rock-y, haha).
  11. My thought isn't that the plugs would not be bad, but either not tightened correctly, or not gapped correctly. Plugs are Bosch, coils are Beru. The Indy shop I use, the main guy was out when I brought it inand his new junior guys did the work and since I have no way to guage their quality, I have to say there is a chance. Would a bunch of plugs not gapped correctly do it? What if the fuel cap was the main issue and the ECU just needs to be reset. That a possibility?(by disconnecting power and waiting) And yes variocam is obviously a high possibility. I've been tracking the numbers the past 3 days now and while the cam deviation numbers are all within spec, they are all very different every time. I'm guessing that's not so normal?
  12. Yeah, I think I just need to get in there and check the variocam bracket. If both sides aren't broken, then I think I'll replace the plugs again to be sure myself. If not those, then things I may try and have noticed in oth threads: O2 sensor, even though no errors, (although I just did pass my smog test by a mile, so not so sure about that) Fuel filter I'm ruling out major issues since the problem is only at low rpm. Anyone have any idea how many misfires I need for the CEL to go on? Gotten up to 38 on a cylinder and no CEL for 2 days now. If I do go in there for the variocam bracket and plugs, anything elsei should look at or do since I'm there?
  13. 64,000 miles. Problem has been around intermittently since around 37,000. Started off just occasional, like CEL light briefly once a month or so, would clear itself. Never any driveability issues. I was told not to worry about it and the part would eventually go out and the problem be known... Now that may happen eventually, but the light is on more often than not at this point and I can't handle it anymore. Still no driveability issues as far as I can tell.
  14. Yes. The plugs and coils were changed assuming that was the problem and it did nothing.
  15. Yeah, I asked the shop a few days ago which ones they used: The coils are Beru part # 997 602 104 00 and the plugs are Bosch part # 999 170 195 90 I am certainly not sure if they were gapped properly, but I'd rather rule everything out before going in there. If only they were easier to get to!
  16. I've had a hell of a time getting the Durametric to log on start. It crashes on me and then I have to start over. Then it's no longer cold... Finally got it and the attached file shows the same thing as in the thread you mention. I did not get TRA until awhile down in the log because it wasn't called that in Durametric, but it shows eventually. You see the crazy number of misfires on cyl 3 & 6 (25 & 38!!!) at the high rpm warm up and then it resets. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Y6vU6KBXrD2t3d56QhHixemEBXL_KUQUvcfJnXict_8/edit?usp=sharing
  17. New log file from last night: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fhrbIwx_sv0CKqQ7SnAniUHFsro1Sv-aO6b0fhhAeE0/edit?usp=sharing
  18. Just replaced the fuel cap and that took care of the fuel ventilation issue. No more fuel vent issue. Not sure if my problem is fixed or not, we'll see. As for the main issue if it comes back: Plugs and coils were replaced 6 months or so ago to address this problem. It did nothing, no change. I feel it running stronger since then, but no fewer misfires, nor a difference in which cylinders (primarily 3,5,6 are the ones that give codes). Don't think I've every gotten a code from 4. Problem has been intermittent for 3 years with zero drive-ability issues and zero other codes. Certainly not a fuel issue as I only use premium gas and 3 years running... I do have a code showing but no CEL. It's a random misfire and cyl 6. Here is a new log from my trip to get the gas cap if anyone is bored and wants another look. I got onto it plenty in this one. Feels great, no hesitation under full load. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0SIEMPr2EXYVmFlQ3J0ZmlRTnc/edit?usp=sharing No misfires on 4. Could the tappet valve brackets be causing the cam variation, or is that not enough variation to indicate an issue? Loren, any idea? Thanks again! I will clear the pending codes and see what happens later tonight or tomorrow morning.
  19. I edited the link... had to move it as my non-paid Google Apps won't let me share to public. Have to use my regular Gmail-lame. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0SIEMPr2EXYSDlMUFdoRXRrcFk/edit?usp=sharing
  20. Update: It may take me awhile to make sense of this, and not sure I selected the correct variable to look at, but hopefully just too many. If I am understanding correctly, there is more often a misfire than I thought, it just does not always make the CEL go on. Only ones that have made it go on are at cold high idle previously, unless my code reader was giving incorrect info, which is possible. I think this shows I have other misfires. My light is off currently since I reset it last night. This log is from this morning, but I had a hard time setting up logging for the first time and car was partially warmed up before I got it going... Any input on this spreadsheet of data? What should I be looking for, or what other values should I add into the log? LOG FILE HERE: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0SIEMPr2EXYSDlMUFdoRXRrcFk/edit?usp=sharing Let me know if that link doesn't work. Thanks!!! ***I just did a search and it seems that the CEL is activated if a certain number of misfires in the same cylinder over a short period of time. So maybe the ones shown are not important and I really need to capture the ones on cold high idle?
  21. Funny thingies though, I passed my smog test a month and a half ago. O-ring does looked cracked.
  22. No error code to post on the Fuel Tank error. Found under "Ready Status". Cap is definitely old and could use a replacement, but not sure if that would do it. I'll try to log tomorrow morning during warm up if I can figure it out. Thanks!
  23. Okay, so my Durametric finally came 4 days late (thanks UPS for my "2 day" air that took the scenic route). Only codes it shows are the misfire codes. Same cylinders... (in the Engine Faults area) I also see: "fuel tank ventilation - Fail" Is there something else I should be looking at? Do I need to have it connected while it happens to log it? Thanks, Ben
  24. Are you saying that may be the problem? Wouldn't a misfire create a whole lot of pressure in the engine? This is a snapshot of when the misfire occurs. My durametric will be here tomorrow. Any tips for use in diagnosing this would be appreciated. I've never used one. Thanks again!
  25. Ok, I was thinking of getting Durametric anyway... I just ordered. Will update with results. Thanks!
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