SVTHorsnake

I just picked up an 07 GT3 as a second owner. The car is great, but there's a stupid rattle/tapping that sounds like it is coming from the front dash, under the chrono clock. It sound like a wire or plastic plug is tapping against something metal.

I've taken it to 2 dealers and none of them can find the problem and do not seem to be willing to take apart the dash (don't really blame them as it may cause more sounds when returned). I've taken out the cup holders, ashtray, AC vent, radio, and AC controls all to find nothing! I've searched and thought it was the AC vent as it seems like a few people had this before. I did find that the door lock switch does shake and rattle a little but this was not it as I've driven the car with the whole thing out.

Any ideas on what could be loose?

Thanks!

pop out the chrono clock and check, directions have been posted here or rennlist or 6 speed.

having the same problem although I've yet to try the aforementioned "directions". Where can I find it or what terms should I search for?

'07 911T

I was looking an my springs while the car was on the rack this past week. I noticed the spring isolators don't function to level the spring tips against the pirches. The springs are already bent and sheered level against the pirches.

Is there any downside to removing the isolators?

Thanks in advance...

My first track day on with this car, the brake pedal started to feel a little mushy 10 minutes into my third session (4 20 minute sessions).

I talked to my tech and he said the factory lines were rubber, with a metal "wrap" for the front. He recommended stainless steel braided lines off pelicanparts. I did some searches and found they were cheapest by far. I paid $80 for all four, which is cheaper than the next cheapest I could find for just two - brand unkown.

The next week I ran, 5 30 minute sessions. My brakes felt completely reliable throughout all the sessions. It was also a hotter day (100 F, track official saying 120 F ambient off the pavement).

For those running in such conditions, I absolutely recommend this mod before you go out and end up cutting your sessions short because your brakes are less managable. You should consider, however, I have noticed my rotors have more significant scoring. I don't know if this is a result of simply a higher aggregate of track time or if, and this makes sense intuitively, the only place left to give in my brake ciruit, is my rotors and pads.

Note - If you decide to buy from that particular retailer, they don't list the kit for the 997 Turbo. I bought the one for the 996.

H&R's are alittle harsh for someone that wants to maintain ride quality, You might want to check on Eibach's I have them on my Boxster and while yes the Boxster is completely different than a 997TT, the Eibach's do lower the car and you still have alot of ride comfort after installing them.

How noticable was the change in ride quality? Any specific habits I should know about?

Thanks

I've been thinking about lowering the stance on my TT. I'm thinking to change only the springs, no coilover kits. I don't want to lose much ride quality, if any.

Anybody have any experience with aftermarket springs? Pictures?

EDIT: I have seen the RoW kit, a little out of the price range I want to spend on springs. I have heard good things about the H&Rs.

subscribing...

I bought a set of new take off Carrera 4S rims and Pirelli Rosso tires, 295's in the back. The car had a noticeable understeer. I put the original rims and 305's back on and was surprised at how much better it handled. I am surprised how 10mm width in the rear tires had such a dramatic effect. I would not go with wider tires.

sorry for the late reply. first a little background.

Car: 2001 Mustang Cobra (about a year ago)

I went to a 315 in the rear, from a 275, while maintaining 275s in the front. As people predicted here, the car began understeering.

Car:2007 997 TT

I kept the stock 235s in the front and bought some 325 PilotSport Cups (DOT, stock 997 GT2 tires) with an 80 treadwear rating. This past Saturday, I took it to a GT Live event at Miller Motorsports park. Outcome: no noticable oversteer increase (although I might not be a good enough driver to push its thresholds) and, when I turned PSM off, and activated the stiffer suspension setting, it would oversteer under throttle blips.

Verdict: I was very satisfied with this tire combination. Traction was greatly improved over my last runs (as defined by an average of .75 to 1 second faster times on a 2 minute average course), although, the last time I ran on the stock 305's it was about 5 degree F colder)

My next move: I will mount PilotSport Cups on the front and report back soon.

Thoughts?

Hi,

I think Porsche chose the 305 tire because it was the biggest high

performance tire at the time. Did you find a wider tire?

Paul

I know there are up to 335s available in 18" sizes but I don't know about the 19"s. I'll do some digging and post my results when I get away from work later today.

ok people. Take it easy. Remember that a 1 to 2 mm difference is the same as the wear difference between the front and rear tires and won't make a notable difference for either the speedometer or the center differential.

I'm simply asking if there is a reason Porsche chose a 305 mm contact patch or if I can go wider.

I just rolled 11,000 miles and it seems my rear tires are ready to be changed. Apparently, I didn't do too bad. Most people say they don't last 8,000 miles.

Regardless, it comes with 305's stock. I'm thinking about going to 315's or even 325's in the rear. Is there an engineering reason not to do this? It seems like the 305's are a little narrow, the sidewall bows a little. Is this technically deliberate?

Will it also add to the oversteer these cars are supposedly known for (although I've never felt it, if anything I've felt oversteer)

Also, is there a different tire I should consider than the factory Michelin and why?

Thoughts?

PS: Thanks for all the consistent input. I will contribute very soon with a DIY V1 install WITHOUT cutting or perminantly altering a single oem part, a DIY for tinting the corners and 3rd brake light, again, with tint that can be pulled, and spacing the rear spoiler, the first 2 of which have already been done on my car.

FYI - Lemon laws don't apply to your car since they know what the problem is and can fix it. You don't have pourous fenders or a pourous chassis. You have a pourous block. Why should they give you a new car? Lemon laws apply to a car that has a recurring problem that's not indenifiable and can't be fixed.

Don't be appalled! Be educated!

Paint that gets road grime and brake dust on it in a place you won't clean will crack and flake.

The car is a flat 6 cylinder - so the cylinders (and pistons) are horizontal. It is fairly normal to have a little oil leak by the rings when the engine is not running. Then when you start the engine it burns off the oil.

back in highschool I had a 2.5RS Subaru that had some piston slap on start up. My thought was if any, that car would leak oil into the cyliners. It never did. That's really why I was concerned. I would go 5 to 8K miles between oil changes and my 997 is turning oil by 3k miles, with a larger capacity at that. Just seemed wrong intuitively.

Sounds like I'm good though.

Thanks, as always...

That's within Porsche's spec. You are fine.

good to hear. Thanks. Where does it burn from? Is it ring compression and cylinder wall spacing?

The oil level light comes on about every 3000 miles. The dealer is telling me the TT's burn more oil than other models. To me, this sounds like a problem. It's got 10,000 miles on it. Should I expect this much oil burning? Am I wrong?

Does anybody know how to make the postcat o2 sensors read clean on a 997TT without a retune? Does anyone make MIL eliminators for these cars?

Hi,

You could upgrade to a mono-ball suspension. Just

posting an option to look at.

Paul

Definitely an interesting option. I just think it should work properly in stock for aswell.

why does it only function after the window is half way up and is there a way to make it function the same way as the driver side window?

if you're interested, I can do a quick write up on wiring your V1 without any soldering and, quite litterally, no tools besides some wire cutters.

Tire pressures?

My tire pressures are all equal and within factory spec. It feels blatantly mechanincal. It's a consistent and predictable problem... ew

thanks though, any other thoughts?

Finished mine this past sunday, except I did mine without cutting any Porsche or V1 wiring, and all harnesses clipped back into their factory positions. It cost me an extra $11 and a trip to the local hardware store but looks and works just as well without cutting or disrupting anything factory. I can post instructions if there is interest.

Not to step on any toes. I relied on the information here to do it.

thanks

... and I'm not happy about it.

It seems my wheel is perfectly responsive from immediately right of TDC but has some play and is not as responsive left of TDC. I took it to the local dealership and they're telling me I'm just being picky (neither implication of which I appreciate).

My car has 6000 miles on it. It felt flawless new and has been getting worse. I've been doing some reading and racking my brain, but nothing logical comes to mind.

Any ideas?

I tried cloning my SIM card with a kit I bought off eBay, and ended up frying it...

please give more detail. Was this user error or did the kit not work properly? What, specifically, caused your sim to be erased?

Not trying to be critical, just wanting more information. I've been talking to a local and he said he can handle a duplicate

Subscribed.

Anybody have a solution to this? I have AT&T and they're the same way. Why didn't Porsche just use bluetooth?

Hi,

do you have the phone kit option installed....

If so It may need activating.

Even if you have the PCM with the slot in it it does not mean you have the phone option unless you ordered it.

it shouldn't need activation.

It's "plug and play". Now go have fun.