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hfactor

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  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Jamaica Estates, New York
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1998 Boxster
  • Former cars
    1990 RX 7

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  1. There is no need to take out the driver's seat to access the relay carrier in the kick panel. It's a little difficult to reach comfortably, but it is very accessible. The Top module is also easy to locate because it is the only double relay in the carrier. Regards, Maurice. Hi Maurice - Thanks for the comments; I see you are local LI; I'm in eastern Queens - nice to meet you. I thought there was a relay I had to worry about under the seat? First, I will try the one on the kick panel for sure. I understand I need to tap on in a few times and clean the contacts? H
  2. Thanks very much Chuck. Sorry for the oversight. It's a 1998 Boxster with 65k miles. I'm located in Queens, New York; Jamaica Estates if you know the area. I'm the second owner. It was dealer serviced in Chicago until I bought in o6 with 60k miles. I still can't figure out why D3 is empty (I guess I might have mistakenly (mis)inserted the fuse the other day when I was inspecting the box, AFTER the top light went on and stayed on.) The last time the fuse box was accessed was over a year ago. Anyway, my concern is about frying something if I put the 30 amp fuse in D3. A buddy of mine suggested that I start out with a 7.5 amp. of a 10 just to see what happens. As for the relays, do I have to take out he driver's seat in order to access inspect the cobntacts on the the Top module? Any other troubleshooting thoughts aor guidance is much appreciated. H Hi, So I take it that your top works ok right? Just the cab top open light stays on? If it does most of the time its just the top lock micro switch. The cab top control relay is up in the left hand kick panel above the fuse panel and is the only black double relay in that location. If your top was not working it would be the relay. Ciao B) Thanks. No the top is NOT working. The window go daown when I release the latch, but everything is otherwise dead when the light is on. It has gone from brief/intermiitant to permanently on. That said, which relay should I check first, the cab control in the kick panenl or the one under the seat. I beleive it could be the one under the seat because when I had some water leaking benind the seats over the summer, the intermittancy began (both the sirbag light and the top). Once it dried out, the SRS lighht went off, and the top was more or less ok. Does that change any thoughts? My gratitude H
  3. Thanks very much Chuck. Sorry for the oversight. It's a 1998 Boxster with 65k miles. I'm located in Queens, New York; Jamaica Estates if you know the area. I'm the second owner. It was dealer serviced in Chicago until I bought in o6 with 60k miles. I still can't figure out why D3 is empty (I guess I might have mistakenly (mis)inserted the fuse the other day when I was inspecting the box, AFTER the top light went on and stayed on.) The last time the fuse box was accessed was over a year ago. Anyway, my concern is about frying something if I put the 30 amp fuse in D3. A buddy of mine suggested that I start out with a 7.5 amp. of a 10 just to see what happens. As for the relays, do I have to take out he driver's seat in order to access inspect the cobntacts on the the Top module? Any other troubleshooting thoughts aor guidance is much appreciated. H
  4. A season after justified the cost of my dealer replacing my second top transmission, I ended up with water seeping into the rear wells, which caused an intermittant Airbag light and Top light back in in late July, 08. That problem has been solved and dry. Now, for the past 2 - 3 weeks, I am getting the intermittant Top light again when I start up, but it has been recycling and goes off shortly after I start driving driving. Yesterday, the light suddenly has stayed on, and will not reset. The brake lever light is working. Obviously, no sound or movement from the top my motor or movement from the top or clamshell. Yesterday, I checked the fuses several times. None were blown. First I thought there were 2 applicable. After checking again this morning, there seem to be 3 applicable to the top. This AM, after checking again, I see that D3, a 30 amp fuse is missing. I can't for the life of me figure out how (did I pull it out yesterday by mistake and put it elsewhare, don't think so!) Couldn't be that I have been using the top for the last two years without it. Or, is that slot a dead slot (D3). If there is no fuse, would I get a top light to stay on?? (Nobody else has access to my vehicle (and this is not a practical joke, nor am I going crazy). So my 2 questions are: 1 - Should I randomly insert a fuse into the now empty D3 slot and see if it resets? (Can I do any damage...) 2 - If it is not the fuse, can anyone help me troubleshoot this top light isssue. From threads I have read, might I have oxidation on the underseat relay contacts from the prior wetness?? Anything else, or other ideas as to how I can clear this **** light, and get the top circuit moving a gain. Please help - and many thanks!! I am desperately trying to save another trip to the dealer.
  5. :welcome: They can't possibly know what needs to be replaced without putting a tester on the car (Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS tester). There is a TSB for seat belt buckle problems - but did they look up your VIN to see if it had already been done to your car? My guess is... not likely - they just want your money. Thanks for the quick reply Loren. I figured as much. I don't think it was ever done. Bought my Boxter from a buddy, the original owner last year. Already had to replace the top motor. Guess I'll have to get a tester plugged in to see what the codes come up. Having read some earlier threads, I was trying to look up the TSB on the NHTSA docket. Couldn't find it. Could it be it was not covering the 98 986?
  6. I'm having a related problem with my '98 Boxster. My SRS light started coming on intermitently, but for less then 6 seconds, then it shuts off. Especially when I come to a stop. It is not happening when the seat belt is not buckled. Called the dealer - he said it sounded like I needed to replace both seat belt wiring harnesses, with 3 hours labor per side. Does anybody have any thoughts. (This is my first posting on Tenn Tech.) Many thanks Hfactor
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